(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!


By jibmums

6 years ago



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  • 1,070 posts
  • 206 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Matthew2000tx
  • Topic is favorited by 94 Pinsiders

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There are 1070 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 22.
#1051 32 days ago

Hey fellow Earthshakers. Having some trouble with my shaker motor.

It's got me totally stumped.

Here’s the issue:

When the shaker motor and pops are both activated at the same time during gameplay they blow a fuse.

Details:

The shaker alone works during the game or in test mode likewise with the pops.

If you unplug the shaker motor the pops work fine and game plays without issue and that fuse (F3) doesn’t blow.

What I’ve tested:
The diode, resistor and transistor on the high power aux board (shaker board)
The transistor on the CPU that control the shaker.
The 0 Ohm resistor that the shaker and pops use on the main Aux board has been replaced. (W4 I think?)

The shaker was newly installed by the previous owner when he bought it, this one here: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/rs-pro-by-allied/3213192/71516156/

(some background that may or not be important: when i went to pick up the game the previous owner said the F3 fuse had just blown so he unplugged the shaker and threw a new fuse in and suggested it could be that the weights were coming into contact with the wire contacts. I've ruled that out and because he told me he didn't use the shaker when he played the game, now I'm suspecting the new motor he installed is somehow faulty. I'm more than willing to replace the motor but not sure how to determine if the motor is at fault before I spend the money on replacing it.)

#1052 32 days ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

Hey fellow Earthshakers. Having some trouble with my shaker motor.
It's got me totally stumped.
Here’s the issue:
When the shaker motor and pops are both activated at the same time during gameplay they blow a fuse.
Details:
The shaker alone works during the game or in test mode likewise with the pops.
If you unplug the shaker motor the pops work fine and game plays without issue and that fuse (F3) doesn’t blow.
What I’ve tested:
The diode, resistor and transistor on the high power aux board (shaker board)
The transistor on the CPU that control the shaker.
The 0 Ohm resistor that the shaker and pops use on the main Aux board has been replaced. (W4 I think?)
The shaker was newly installed by the previous owner when he bought it, this one here: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/rs-pro-by-allied/3213192/71516156/
(some background that may or not be important: when i went to pick up the game the previous owner said the F3 fuse had just blown so he unplugged the shaker and threw a new fuse in and suggested it could be that the weights were coming into contact with the wire contacts. I've ruled that out and because he told me he didn't use the shaker when he played the game, now I'm suspecting the new motor he installed is somehow faulty. I'm more than willing to replace the motor but not sure how to determine if the motor is at fault before I spend the money on replacing it.)

The only insight that I can give you is make sure the motor spins freely with little to no resistance. check for burnt connectors. The fact that he replaced the motor should raise some questions. Good luck and hope you sort it out.

#1053 31 days ago

So that motor is spec'd for 8311rpm. The original is 3200rpm. That could be your issue.

3 weeks later
#1054 9 days ago

I finished my first playfield swap (not a trivial task - HA!) and have an issue with the top right popper that sends the ball up the wire ramp and through the fault between the states. it works fine until i start 3 ball multiball. then the ball just sits there in the corner while i play the other two. once done with the other two, it does a ball search and kicks it out on the 2nd search.

Is there a certain switch that needs to be triggered to launch the upper right ball at the beginning of multiball?
-or- is there something wrong with my leaf switch on the top right popper is causing a time out or something for the coil? I'm really stumped here.
Any other ideas?

thanks for your help.

EDIT: update. figured out trough 1 was stuck open. problem resolved. Need to remember to take the balls out when looking for stuck switches.

#1055 8 days ago

I happened to pick up this backglass, but I don’t have an ES to put it in. Would like to find one of the samples with the sinking building.

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#1056 8 days ago
Quoted from jho159:

I happened to pick up this backglass, but I don’t have an ES to put it in. Would like to find one of the samples with the sinking building.
[quoted image]

WOW! Where did you find that prototype backglass?

#1057 8 days ago
Quoted from vstarbiker:

WOW! Where did you find that prototype backglass?

Why prototype? What are the differences?

#1058 8 days ago

I bought it from a former Williams employee. The pink Cadillac is the main difference, harig

#1059 7 days ago

The buildings up in the top left are different too, they are normally mirrored. Awesome pick up.

#1060 7 days ago
Quoted from jho159:

I bought it from a former Williams employee. The pink Cadillac is the main difference, harig

I noticed the different buildings.
Thx for the insight info

#1061 6 days ago
Quoted from razoraustralia:

The buildings up in the top left are different too, they are normally mirrored. Awesome pick up.

The chipping at the bottom is a shame, but yeah, it looks good. The skin tones on mine look like an f'ing ghost.

#1062 5 days ago

Insert decals wanted! Plz help me find decals for my Eartshaker!

Scanned if possible, but I could also buy real decals if shipping to sweden wont be too much

#1063 5 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

Insert decals wanted! Plz help me find decals for my Eartshaker!
Scanned if possible, but I could also buy real decals if shipping to sweden wont be too much

I bought some from Ebay. Did you look there?

#1064 4 days ago

Can anybody show me in a picture where the Solenoid 2C building flasher is?! I am not finding it very easily. All I know is it is "deep behind the building". Thank you!

#1065 4 days ago

I have the bracket and the shaker motor, but I’m missing the weights.

Would anyone be able to fabricate the weights for the shaker motor? I don’t have the raw metal or tap and die set to do this.

Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

#1066 4 days ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

I have the bracket and the shaker motor, but I’m missing the weights.
Would anyone be able to fabricate the weights for the shaker motor? I don’t have the raw metal or tap and die set to do this.
Any help or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

If you pay for material, and a little for some labor, I can make them for you.

#1067 4 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

If you pay for material, and a little for some labor, I can make them for you.

Sending you a pm

#1068 4 days ago

I am also looking for a complete shaker assembly, with brackets (the shaker driver board is not needed, only shaker motor with its assembly).
Please let me know if someone can sell me one!
Preferably in Europe.

#1069 3 days ago

My shooter has the red spring in it. It cam barely make it up the sprial to the bypass. It almost always lands in the 100,000 skill shot. Any ideas on how to make it shoot correct? New spiral ramp if it helps.

#1070 2 days ago
Quoted from ravve:

I am also looking for a complete shaker assembly, with brackets (the shaker driver board is not needed, only shaker motor with its assembly).
Please let me know if someone can sell me one!
Preferably in Europe.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK-535-6711&Category_Code=MOP

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MO-14-7951&Category_Code=GS-753

you would have to fabricate the weights

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