Cool, you have more courage than I do! lol Good luck, I hope it works out well!

Posting for future generations - I needed part 20-8790-13 ("Nyliner bearing") for the Zone Opener Assembly. Missing this part leads to too much slop in the opener, which can cause the fault to get stuck open. There was no useful information on Pinside about it and none of the online pinball shops had this part number listed. I reached out to several of them, and even the manufacturer (Nyliner), but none of them could offer a replacement suggestion. I ended up buying several sizes and found that 20-8790-5 was a perfect fit. It is listed as 1/2 inch, but is actually just a bit smaller (0.4375 inches).

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790-5

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Anyone know the part number for this post?

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#02-4436-6, 1/4 x 1 1/4 8-32 hex spacer. Marco has them.

awesome. thanks!

Can someone post a photo of your Lower Ball Pop switch under the play field?I wanted to see how many attachment points it's got for soldering and how the diode is attached. I'm having issues with mine and only see two blades but my upper pop has 3 attachments points not two.

You mean the lower vuk

Here you go

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If you get two balls lined up in the lower vuk, does the second one impede the first? I've had this issue a few times and the first ball may not make it out of the vuk. Or when it does, the second ball gets pushed back slightly and gets hung up on switch 39 since it's moving so slowly.

Thanks this confirmed my switch is missing a solider tab! Thanks now I know what I need to order.

No my issue is that the switch is stuck on when in diagnostics mode. Looks like one of the soldiering lugs broke off and a previous tech tried to hack a fix and failed.

Is the upper flipper the same size as the bottom 2? I need to replace mine. Based on the book's notes on the upper left it looks like it's a 2" flipper with a "2 inch mini-flipper bat with 4-1/16 inch long shaft. according that what marcos pulls up?

Looking at my machine it looks like it's all the same size flippers in mine.

Selling my Earthshaker and Rollergames.
Add in Marketplace

Joining this club for the second time. This one is cleaning up really well.

Will any shaker motor work for this game? I have the high voltage board but no, shaker motor.

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Front right VUK issue...and solution.

From what I've read, some Earthshakers have code to eject the locked ball as soon as another enters the subway.
Mine does not.
With mine...with ball one locked, when ball two enters the subway it stops and touches ball one while the random prize is generated.
Since ball two rests higher than ball one...it hangs over ball one interfering with ball one pop up.

Here's my solution.
Putting a spacer at the end of the subway lowers ball two to about the same height as ball one. Since they are now side by side...ball two cannot interfere with bball one pop up.

I've tested this many times tonight and every VUK happens with one attempt.

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Here's my completed Earthshaker.
Very high end restoration... nothing was ignored.

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So I think my motor might have a bad spot and it looks like a previous owner tried to remove it because the set screws that holds the weights on the shaft has a broken part in it. I've tired to removed it..and there just is not enough there to grab. I bought a motor that should work if I could extract the old one from from the housing but also the noticed the screws holding the motor in are rounded so they too will need to be extracted. My motor works but some of the time when it stops in one spot it doesn't want to start again unless I help it with a screw driver to get spinning see the video: (I'm also having an problem with the motor being stuck on and looks like the aux power board is putting out 40V instead of 25v on it's circuit. But here is the video and you can see how it's getting stuck.

I replaced brushes already it didn't help the video is with the new brushes in it. I know if the video there are more than the motor issues going on here... the motor is stuck on and also as mentioned there is the issue with the over voltage of the Red and White wire attachment points at the Aux Power board.

At some point I'm thinking maybe I can just buy a new shaker motor assembly like this. My issue with using my replacement motor is the whole extraction from the housing:
https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

If it's the same drive voltage/amps would this work as a replacement to the the original just adapt it to use the same High Current driver board? Basically looking to order this kit just for the motor and housing...has anyone done this? I don't know the specs of that motor but I might contact Pinball life to see. Does anyone know what the original Johnson motor is running at I think it's 12 V DC but not sure what the amp draw is.

Going to be straight here and don't shoot the messenger.

I see you invested a lot of time and effort in your restoration and it shows off! Very nice work sir, very very nice result. Love the cabinet, playfield, and polished parts.

What I dislike (and i have to ask why you made those decissions) are the powder coated pieces. Why did you pick that orange/red trim on your cabinet, coindoor and legs? Looks like something you would see on iron man. Also those wireramps, they look coming straight from RCT.

Of course this is object of your own taste but I find them way off the ES theme.

But besides that your machine is looking absolutely mint.

I always thought that was the 'fast match' setting - off=ball waits (so you can watch what you get before having to deal with the ball ejecting) on=does match up as soon as shelter hole entered if a ball is at the bottom.

Any tips on replacing the bulbs in these two flashers? Seems the caps aren't screwed down but instead riveted.

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You have to remove the plastics.

Gotcha thank you!

The orange matches the color of the title on the side of the cabinet. With all the colors on Earthshaker, I found it difficult to choose the color.
Though not 100% sure I picked the right color, in person it works pretty well.
I knew this color was a risk.
I love how the wireformed ramps look.

Sorry, I tried to search first. Manual doesn't list types. Anyone have a list of bulb types for ES? How many #555 and how many #44 bayonet for all the inserts and G.I.? Thanks in advance!

Looking to join the club
Have a line on one but would need a new playfield
Are they no longer available?
What are my chances of finding one?

One pops up occasionally, but CPR just did their small run a few years ago and that was it.

Ok guys I'm having trouble figuring out what's going on with my earthshaker. The other day I was playing a game and suddenly the game reset. Since then when you start a game the pops dont fire and the shaker doesn't run. Everything else plays/acts as it should. I thought maybe it was a fuse that went on the power board and sure enough the fuse at f3 was blown. But after replacing it the problem persists. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

CPR is doing another run in the next 6 months to a year. I heard that from Kevin

My Earthshaker has some garbled voices, does anyone know if the sound chips on Ebay would correct this?

My test report is showing an error on switch 36 - left ramp bypass. I’ve checked the manual and don’t see 36 on the diagram. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thats probably the 100'000 on the circular ramp. If you don't hit it once in a while it will give you that error.

Yeah, those get annoying. I'll try to hit ever one of those 4 switches there every once in a while. With an ultra lite plunge to get no skill shot mixed in.

Ramp bypass is when you skip the skill spiral entirely so it's at the top.

That reminds me to change the software at some point to ignore those switches - after a party there's ALWAYS at least 2 switches that don't work on a couple games because non-pinheads either can't make the shots or don't know any better. ES is one of them and STTNG is the other (borg ship lock - no one EVER makes that shot!)

100K is switch 35. 34 is 25K and 33 is 50000. Slochar, by skipping the spiral do you mean go short and not go into the spiral at all? I could see that being an issue since I never do that. On mine a full pull nearly always goes to the 100K and rarely goes past it. In any event I do not see a switch beyond the 100,000 hole.

It's one or the other I think it scores 10k when you do that. Try going into switch test and short plunging into it I don't know if you can reach it by hand.

I’ll try the short plunge.

When I got the machine it wasn’t able to make it to the 100K hole but things have improved. I remember playing this years ago and those games overshooting the holes on a full plunge. I may put in a stronger spring to make it more of a challenge.

I'm sure you have done this already but reseat all your connectors on the sound board and ribbon cables in the back box first.

Yes, I have done that. Not sure what to do next

Ran into this same problem, the fix in this thread fixed it for me: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/earthshaker-problem-has-me-stumped

I finally found the switch. It’s to the right and down a little from the spiral entrance and can be reached with a dowel. I cleared the error so now it doesn’t appear as a fault. At least now I’ll know where to look next time.

dddanielll thanks man!

Hello all, new to pinside and have a sample earthshaker #49 and no whirlwind. After my parents years ago put the machine outside in the desert with a tarp over it, my tracks melted. Since then I have the machine back to 100% but the new tracks are a little thicker. I was wondering if anyone else is having a problem with the fault ramp making airborne balls. Its not an impossible shot but it worries me when the ball either jumps onto some playfield plastics or even hit the glass. Any ideas how to fix or make it less steep? Thank you

Do you have the clear plastic guards that go along each side of the ramp? Im sure you do but just maybe yours don't have them. The original Earthshaker had a lot of air balls in that area. Thats why they had them. But many machines had the shields removed.

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Make sure you don't install the ramp so the flap is mashed to the playfield - you want as gentle a slope as possible to avoid a ski jump effect.

I don't think the sample games came with the sneeze guards - mine didn't in 1991.

Mine has the guards. I see the metal flap has a bow in it. Its hard to get it not so curved with the thickness of the ramp. Seems like it almost needs a longer flap.

One of my games, I can't recall which one, I ended up grinding down the plastic with a Dremel because the plastic was so thick under the flap. This maybe a solution for you.

Agree with fossmin on having to grind down the underside ramp plastic. I had to do the same on the repro center ramp on Cyclone so the transition between play field and ramp flap was less abrupt. Dremel took care of the issue. Good luck!!

Well ill pull out my Drexel. Thanks!