(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!

By jibmums

7 years ago


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There are 1,229 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 25.
#951 1 year ago

A further complication. I removed the two extra posts and the bare screw. As expected they are wood screws. I attempted to remove the single ring post and figured out either the machine screw or t nut are stripped. To make matters worse the t nut is covered by the plastic ramp that runs from the upper playfield. Based on a quick look it seems removing the ramp is major undertaking.

I’m inclined to cheat here. If I cut off the screw head I can remove the post and then cut the screw off at playfield level. I can then drill a new hole close to the old one and attach the post using a wood screw. Post should cover the old hole.

Am I missing something?

#952 1 year ago
Quoted from schwism:

A further complication. I removed the two extra posts and the bare screw. As expected they are wood screws. I attempted to remove the single ring post and figured out either the machine screw or t nut are stripped. To make matters worse the t nut is covered by the plastic ramp that runs from the upper playfield. Based on a quick look it seems removing the ramp is major undertaking.
I’m inclined to cheat here. If I cut off the screw head I can remove the post and then cut the screw off at playfield level. I can then drill a new hole close to the old one and attach the post using a wood screw. Post should cover the old hole.
Am I missing something?

It’s not that much work to remove the subway. Just need to remove the bottom VUK and then a couple screws holding the subway down.

#953 1 year ago
Quoted from russdx:

It’s not that much work to remove the subway. Just need to remove the bottom VUK and then a couple screws holding the subway down.

Thanks. That’s good to know for future reference. I took the easy route and cut the screw as flush with the playfield as possible. Relocated post covers it. I’ll correct it if I need to pull the subway. Post will cover the hole I made.

#954 1 year ago

This is probably old news to you guys but new to me.
I came across the Scott Danesi dead flip video for aftershock/earthshaker. I've never played or have had any interest in earthshaker but after seeing I thought it was awesome! Thoughts???

#955 1 year ago

That’s news to me! Just watched it.

I really like the idea of updating these System 11 games. They have Complex playfields That would allow for deep WPC-like rules. As long as the modifications are 100% reversible, I’d totally try some of these mods.

1 week later
#956 1 year ago

Picked this up yesterday. It’s fresh off route so I need to find time to spruce things up. Also need to light up the middle sections some more. Seems overly dark. The camera makes it look way better.

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#957 1 year ago

I have played a handful of games and I do have one small issue. I can't seem to get the lower habitrail to line up properly.

Often the bottom ball popper activates and the ball will come up but not make it. It's like it rattles around and then drops back down. The machine goes into ball search and after what seems like forever it will eventually eject.

I've tried manovering the bottom Subway and the habitrail with no luck. Any ideas?

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#958 1 year ago

Have you checked out the coil and sleeve?

#959 1 year ago

Shaft moves very easily through the coil. I was actually surprised it wasn't worse.

#960 1 year ago

Is there anything different about the playfield pivot mechanism on Earthshaker vs other Sys11 games (like Tomcat or Whirlwind)? As far as I can tell the playfield mounting brackets are in the correct spot on the playfield, and the bolts that hold the PF are in the same spot as they are on my Whirlwind (15 inches up from the bottom of the cabinet), but when I lower my playfield on earthshaker I have to slide it forward on the bracket to get the hangers to meet with the front of the cabinet. As far as I can tell the brackets aren't bent, since bending them to meet the bracket makes the apron not fit.

Edit: I decided to just bend the apron and hangers, it doesn't look perfect but it works.

#961 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Is there anything different about the playfield pivot mechanism on Earthshaker vs other Sys11 games (like Tomcat or Whirlwind)? As far as I can tell the playfield mounting brackets are in the correct spot on the playfield, and the bolts that hold the PF are in the same spot as they are on my Whirlwind (15 inches up from the bottom of the cabinet), but when I lower my playfield on earthshaker I have to slide it forward on the bracket to get the hangers to meet with the front of the cabinet. As far as I can tell the brackets aren't bent, since bending them to meet the bracket makes the apron not fit.
Edit: I decided to just bend the apron and hangers, it doesn't look perfect but it works.

I watched your video. Mine does it as well.

1 week later
#962 1 year ago

On the hunt for a repro EarthShaker PF. If any of you guys have one laying around for that restoration project that never materialized, hit me up.

1 week later
#963 1 year ago
Quoted from schwism:

Have you checked out the coil and sleeve?

Speaking of, how do you get that coil off? I need to replace the sleeve in mine but the head of the plunger keeps you from removing the coil, even when you unscrew it from the mounting hardware.

#964 1 year ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Speaking of, how do you get that coil off? I need to replace the sleeve in mine but the head of the plunger keeps you from removing the coil, even when you unscrew it from the mounting hardware.

I pulled the unit out of the machine (removed the switch and desoldered the coil). I never removed the coil but I would think once the screws that hold it in place were removed the coil and sleeve would come out to the right as shown in the picture.

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#965 1 year ago
Quoted from schwism:

I pulled the unit out of the machine (removed the switch and desoldered the coil). I never removed the coil but I would think once the screws that hold it in place were removed the coil and sleeve would come out to the right as shown in the picture.[quoted image]

Unfortunately the ball popper/head (or whatever you'd call it) on the coil keeps you from removing it from the mounting hardware. It might just be that I need to poke the pin out that holds the head onto it. I'll give it a shot tonight and see how that goes.

1 week later
#966 1 year ago

Hey Earthshakers
New guy on the page with a reasonably good Earthshaker in the basement and no experience, at all in Pinball. My game quit about a month ago and I finally decided to take a shot at repair. Found the manual and got up to speed. Found two problems. Lamp coil circuit of the transformer was dead! Easy fix, new trans.
Second problem was the game lost it's programming everytime I turned it off. More research showed the game had batteries that I didn't even realize. Changed the batteries but realized the battery holder was toast. Not too bad, got a battery replacement mod from Todd at TNT Amusements for the coin battery modification board. Pretty simple install, fit like it was supposed to and I reinstalled the board. Powered up the game, changed one item in programming to free play, closed the program and the display went to every segment lit up. Game now locks up with full segment display at the end of programming. Before I changed to the coin battery, I could still play the game. Now it won't play at all.
The display flickers slowly once it displays all segments but never allows play.
Tried everything I could think of all to no avail.
I sure would like to hear if anyone else has run into this problem. I don't know where to go from here
Any help would be greatly appreciated

#967 1 year ago
Quoted from Jagdad:

Hey Earthshakers
New guy on the page with a reasonably good Earthshaker in the basement and no experience, at all in Pinball. My game quit about a month ago and I finally decided to take a shot at repair. Found the manual and got up to speed. Found two problems. Lamp coil circuit of the transformer was dead! Easy fix, new trans.
Second problem was the game lost it's programming everytime I turned it off. More research showed the game had batteries that I didn't even realize. Changed the batteries but realized the battery holder was toast. Not too bad, got a battery replacement mod from Todd at TNT Amusements for the coin battery modification board. Pretty simple install, fit like it was supposed to and I reinstalled the board. Powered up the game, changed one item in programming to free play, closed the program and the display went to every segment lit up. Game now locks up with full segment display at the end of programming. Before I changed to the coin battery, I could still play the game. Now it won't play at all.
The display flickers slowly once it displays all segments but never allows play.
Tried everything I could think of all to no avail.
I sure would like to hear if anyone else has run into this problem. I don't know where to go from here
Any help would be greatly appreciated

You should post a tech thread about this too. As your tech problem is not ES specific, but more of a general system 11 / pinball tech sorta problem, I believe. You might get help a little quicker there (more eyeballs). I'd offer help, but I don't have much experience with these kinds of things yet. Good luck!

#968 1 year ago

Hey DakotaMike
Thanks for your help.
I’m new so need all the help I can get
Think I’ve been through your town more than once on the way to Sturgis
Love that area
Stay safe

#969 1 year ago

Rebuilt lower VUK with a kit from pinball life & new coil sleeve. Note the spring between coil & shaft. Kicks out every time now.

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#970 1 year ago

Changed the batteries in my game and now I am getting a U25 Ram Failure. What would this be?

Thanks

1 week later
#971 1 year ago

Hello, can anyone tell me where this wire is supposed to go? I found it loose and my Earthshaker is acting up. Not sure if this is the cause, but I’d like to fix it and see. Thank you.

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#972 1 year ago

It goes there

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#973 1 year ago

Thanks man!!

#974 1 year ago

Finally got around to putting my CPR topper on! I pretty much just finished shopping this game a few weeks ago and decided to order replacement ramps, I'll need to get those on in the next few days.

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#975 1 year ago

Just got in guys. It's a great game. A bit of a horror story though....My wife was helping me carry it into the house and she dropped it! Split the bottom left of the back box But thankfully I was able to wood glue and screw it back together and the back glass survived! A little epoxy and some sanding and paint and it will be no worse for wear. Game plays great though!

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1 week later
#976 1 year ago

I am finally able to say I own an Earthshaker. I was casually looking for one for about a year and one popped up about 15 miles from my house at a fair price for a game in decent condition.

I saw that the connector at G7 for the GI was burnt to a crisp, literally. J7 is 10-pins, they had a 5 pin connector on it without any key. I pulled the board, replaced the header pins, and pulled out the manual to see what the configuration is supposed to be for the wiring on J7. The manual calls for 6 wires, I only had 5. The manual says I am supposed to have an orange wire at pin 5, which was not there when I got the game and I don't see an orange wire laying around in the backbox. I checked my Taxi and it does have the orange wire that I am missing from ES.

I also noticed there was only one wire on J11 on the interconnect board. I thought this seemed a little odd so I looked at the manual. The manuals says there should be a lot more on this connector. I believe it's a 16 pin connector and according to the manual there is supposed to be wires to most all of the pins on this connector.

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this and / or can post pictures of these connectors on their interconnect board. I have attached a picture of how this connector was when I got the game.

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#977 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I am finally able to say I own an Earthshaker. I was casually looking for one for about a year and one popped up about 15 miles from my house at a fair price for a game in decent condition.
I saw that the connector at G7 for the GI was burnt to a crisp, literally. J7 is 10-pins, they had a 5 pin connector on it without any key. I pulled the board, replaced the header pins, and pulled out the manual to see what the configuration is supposed to be for the wiring on J7. The manual calls for 6 wires, I only had 5. The manual says I am supposed to have an orange wire at pin 5, which was not there when I got the game and I don't see an orange wire laying around in the backbox. I checked my Taxi and it does have the orange wire that I am missing from ES.
I also noticed there was only one wire on J11 on the interconnect board. I thought this seemed a little odd so I looked at the manual. The manuals says there should be a lot more on this connector. I believe it's a 16 pin connector and according to the manual there is supposed to be wires to most all of the pins on this connector.
I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this and / or can post pictures of these connectors on their interconnect board. I have attached a picture of how this connector was when I got the game.[quoted image]

Hows this? Where is the plug pictured ? I'll send it .

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#978 1 year ago
Quoted from jhanley:

Hows this? Where is the plug pictured ? I'll send it .
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you very very much for sending the pics of your game!! Both of your connectors look the same as mine. The manual must be WAYYY off, especially on the J11 connector.

#979 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Thank you very very much for sending the pics of your game!! Both of your connectors look the same as mine. The manual must be WAYYY off, especially on the J11 connector.

No problem. I don't know a hell of a lot on these things but I do what I can.

#980 1 year ago
Quoted from jhanley:

No problem. I don't know a hell of a lot on these things but I do what I can.

What you did was perfect- as they say, a picture is worth a 1000 words. Thanks again for helping me confirm my machine is wired correctly!

#981 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Thank you very very much for sending the pics of your game!! Both of your connectors look the same as mine. The manual must be WAYYY off, especially on the J11 connector.

I believe connector J11 and J12 are connected electrically, except for the keying pins.

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#982 1 year ago
Quoted from La4s:

I believe connector J11 and J12 are connected electrically, except for the keying pins.[quoted image]

This is what I was looking at in the manual that threw me for a loop. Maybe it's not meant to be read as list of what wire goes where on the connectors?

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#983 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

This is what I was looking at in the manual that threw me for a loop. Maybe it's not meant to be read as list of what wire goes where on the connectors?[quoted image]

That is definitely off from the picture above. I will have to open mine and see how it is wired.

#984 1 year ago

The text has worn off a few of my inserts; mainly the bonus x inserts near the flippers. The previous owner of the game told me there are replacement "waterslide" decals available. Has anyone done these, how did they turn out, where did you get them from, any other opinions on them?

#985 1 year ago

Anyone have a sinking institute building kit they want to move on?

Cheers

Ray

#986 1 year ago

Hey guys I will be joining the club soon. Look forward to reading through this thread.

#987 1 year ago

I picked up a nice HUO example Earthshaker a few months back...this may not be Earthshaker specific but every place there is a serial number has been scratched out...any idea what the motivation behind that would be?

#989 1 year ago

...that was the only theory I could come up with too...curious if anyone had any other wild theories or similar experiences. I’d love to know what the serial number is...any other place to look on a System 11 besides the stickers?

#990 1 year ago
Quoted from PJKools:

every place there is a serial number has been scratched out

No serials on the boards either? As far as I know, the only serial #'s are on the front and the back of the cabinet, and on the boards as well.

#991 1 year ago

S/No sticker near the volume control as well

#992 1 year ago

Nope...they scratched them out on the boards and the volume control sticker as well

#993 1 year ago
Quoted from PJKools:

Nope...they scratched them out on the boards and the volume control sticker as well

Any chance there could be a serial number on the back of one of the boards? I don't recall ever seeing one myself, but I'm thinking thieves would probably be too lazy/dumb to pull the boards and check.

#994 1 year ago

They wrote it on mine

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#995 1 year ago

My FH has also the last digits of the serials removed.
There was the theory of sellers back then selling this game outside of their sales territory thus hiding/removing the serial so they could not track back where it came from...

#996 1 year ago

Just got in on the sunny drive time. Pretty nice looking for original paint.

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#997 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just got in on the sunny drive time. Pretty nice looking for original paint.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your game looks very nice. Congrats on a great game in great condition!

#998 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Your game looks very nice. Congrats on a great game in great condition!

Thanks! I'm going to replace some plastics, fix the minor mylar bubbling over the inserts and see if i can get an overlay for that one spot of wear from the saucer.

It's a great starting point, that's for sure.

#999 1 year ago


Quoted from yaksplat:Thanks! I'm going to replace some plastics, fix the minor mylar bubbling over the inserts and see if i can get an overlay for that one spot of wear from the saucer.
It's a great starting point, that's for sure.

How do you plan on fixing the mylar bubbling. My Taxi has mylar issues and people told me not to remove the mylar since the playfield is not clear coated it will much more than likely remove playfield art and lettering if I tried to take the mylar off.

Great starting spot for sure; I'm jealous!

#1000 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

How do you plan on fixing the mylar bubbling. My Taxi has mylar issues and people told me not to remove the mylar since the playfield is not clear coated it will much more than likely remove playfield art and lettering if I tried to take the mylar off.
Great starting spot for sure; I'm jealous!

Mylar removal

I just did a comet that was in much worse shape mylar wise. It popped right off with no damage. Any black that gets removed will be redrawn with a oil paint marker and then sealed up with some thin super glue and wet sanded smooth.

I am weighing pros and cons right now though.

There are 1,229 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 25.

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