CPR re-made them some years ago. Maybe hunt for such a repro glas.

whitey was selling a gold with plastics few months ago.

I have a friend about to sell a really nice earthshaker. Is anyone looking for one or know someone who is?

Hi everyone- I've been completely rebuilding an ES from ground up over the past few weeks. Has anyone upgraded their sound with a Pinball Pro speaker kit? Chris Granner's soundtrack is pretty treble heavy so I don't know how much it would effect/if it would be worth it to upgrade. It's pretty tempting though...

Got any pictures of your restore?

I am also rebuilding a earthshaker from ground up and have been documenting the slow progress

Has anyone had issues install the Starship fantasy ramps? Seems that the bumper bracket on the main ramp won't fit. Before I dremel the ramp I want to make sure there isn't an easier fix. See pic.

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Do Earthshaker translites exist? I need a new backglass but I figure I should find out if there's a cheaper option before I go dropping $250 at CPR...

Not that I've heard of.

RIP my wallet I guess . I need plastics too anyway so I might as well just grab both.

Make sure you get plastic protectors when you do. Earthshaker machines are famous for busted plastics.

I still need a motor replacement for my shaker

I have a original overhauled motor here , 25 EURO plus ... shipping from Germany. Think shipping will kill the deal ...

On eBay 79 Dollar

ebay.com link: PINBALL SHAKER MOTOR FOR Earthshaker Roadshow Harley Gladiators by Johnson

Just joined the club this week! Traded my Williams Getaway for this Pat Lawlor classic! My wife likes this game a whole lot more and that makes me happy, she loves the spinner and light show. Game is in decent shape, had a cracked center ramp at the entrance so ordered all new ramps from Marco and new plastics from CPR among other items to spruce the game up. Excited to break this down to clean polish and make it look like new, ish.

Only bummer thing is getting new rubbers. I like Titan rubbers but can't seem to log onto their website, and if it says I don't have the correct password, the website locks up once I try to "forgot" password. Bummer. Hope this gets cleared up soon.

Currently the only thing not working on my Earthshaker is the shaker motor, bought new brushes and plan to install them on my day off Monday. If this doesn't fix the issue, any idea where to go next? Love the game though even without the motor. Former owner installed the sinking building mod and that makes up for the shaking, at least for now, lol!.

Sorry about that, It's fixed now.

Thank you! I ordered a bunch of new rubbers, star posts, and sleeves as soon as I could log in! Great product, as well as customer service!

Ok, got the shaker motor working properly, it was a simply brush replacement thankfully. New ramps came in from Marco, just waiting on LEDs from cointaker and plastics from CPR to break it down and start the overhaul. Now after a few games, I found out that during mutliball, if you hit the R/H ramp that sends the ball to the fault line during multi ball, nothing happens. The game loses the ball and goes into ball search. But during normal NON multi ball, that shot works as normal. Any idea on this one??????

Thank you in advance,

Jason

If you have 3 it should send the 3rd one to the subway and hold it there until you drain one then it will spit it up so you still have 2.

Try updating your game code. I had something similar happen with older code.

Anyone know the value of those plastic toppers are that come with the new plastic set? It is a large plastic of the rear end of the car and the man and woman in it. I shopped out a game for someone and he doesn't want it and told me just to sell it. I just want to get rid of it.

fossmin is actually looking for one of those!

How do you update the code? I’m guessing you need some device compared to a flash drive like on current pins? I think the latest codes are on the pinball data base.

I had the exact same issue, I had to cut away plastic from the bottom so the bracket would move up more and sit more over the top but still the screw hole never lined up so i re drilled this, old hole was under the bracket so you cant see. I can take photos of how mine turned out tonight if it helps.

I also found the right ramp a very tight squeeze and the spiral ramp needed some support holes slightly moved to line up. But over all very impressed they r a million times better then what i had before!

It seems the top half of my backglass lights are out, no voltage. Any suggestions where to look next? Other than this everything else appears to be working normally.

Code is on a ROM chip. Talk to Meloyelo51 if you need someone to burn the code for you.

some photos of the installed slightly modified starship ramps if it helps any one

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game schematic and trace back what supplies that string of GI might be the relay? or bad pin / solder on connector or simply broken wire on light panel.

Am I correct on seeing that the two rom chips are socketed? No need to desolder those chips? Along wit the sound and soeech chips? I see you can buy new chips for around $12 each.

Yes, U26/27 are socketed - you probably do not need to update the sound chips though. Your rom rev should be printed on the chip label and also available when you go into diagnostics... LA3 is the latest official release.

I joined the club this weekend! Bought my first pin in 25 years to go with my TZ. Nice to have another Lawlor game in the house.

I'm building a LED list, planning to buy from Comet.

I've made this LED planning spreadsheet world-writable for now in case anybody wants to help me with my homework.

Gave it a preliminary wipe and wax and earned a high score.

Issues to work through:

• Broken fault and trip ramps. Ordered from Marco.
• Several broken plastics. Ordered new set from CPR.
• Both inlanes have wear down to the wood. Used a cliffy I had intended for my TZ inlane on the right hand one. Need some more cliffys.
• A few inserts need fresh decals. Not sure how to solve that but I guess decals are available.
• Batteries are already off the board. Need to adhere the battery box to the cabinet, it's just hanging there.
• Maybe a half dozen lamps are out. Won't replace before LED project.
• Lots of mylar "ghosting": it's separated from a bunch of inserts in the main playfield area. Don't know what to do about this.
• Two gimpy legs. New bolts and leg plates ordered from Marco.
• The metal behind the eject hole had ruined the plastic over it. Removed it and bent it back down. That's probably a temporary fix.
• Slingshot plastics intact. Installed clear washers.
• After about an hour of play I think the CPU board crashed. I continued to hear music and all the high voltage stuff went dead. I think that's the blanking circuit, designed to prevent a bad problem from getting worse. The previous owner said he had replaced some bridge rectifiers. I'm confident this is a well-understood sys11 problem but I don't know yet exactly what I need to do.

Is there a source for repro playfields I'm not aware of? CPR is sold out. What's this talk of a "gold" playfield?

Is there still a source for the building mod?

try CPR distributors or ask on here as was a few going couple of months ago.

Thanks for the referral!

Yes, simple socketed chips, and I only charge $10 for each chip that size, and I am authorized / licensed by PPS

as slochar said above...Earthshaker sound roms are still L1 (aka 1.0), so you wouldn't need them if you sounds are already working properly, unless you are running some early prototype roms that would start with P instead of L....you would just need the CPU U26/U27 L3's

Picked up a sample #118 Earthshaker the other day just looking to see what you folks think it is worth in this condition you don’t ever see these for sale so hard to gauge its value. Has some playfield wear where there is no mylar, cracked main ramp at entrance, game boots to adjustment failure no board rot just 20 year old dead batteries. Game shows just over 33k games on counter inside the game.
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the cab looks in pretty decent condition, should of seen mine when i received it

Just ordered the chips from you! Look forward to seeing if this fixes my issue with balls not getting kicked out of the top right VUK during multiball.

From a technician and realistic value perspective, about $500. You'd make more money parting it out (which I am NOT suggesting). It'll cost about $2500 (based only on the pics and issues you mentioned, but probably much more) just in parts (not including labor) to restore this game to presentable working condition... At that point it'll be worth about $2500-$2800 TOPPS, and you'll be way upside-down in it. Anyone with any sense would only take this on if its for their personal permanent collection.

On the other hand, these days, Pinside is infested with morons who have way more dollars than sense. You may find a few fuktards that'll give you $5000 just because its light blue!!

I mean realistic or not, it’s worth what people pay for it. I’m a bit defensive I suppose because one showed up in my town on CL for 2400. I offered 1800 and he was so annoyed he delisted it. A couple of weeks later I hit him up and took it for 2200. You wouldn’t be impressed: less than ideal cabinet, imperfect backglass, two broken ramps, serious wear above inlanes, worn decals, busted plastic, ghosted Mylar, incandescent bulbs. But it’s a Lawlor and it’s not going to be on the market again for decades.

Once you clean it up and replace the broken plastics, you will be surprised. Just need to wait for the right buyer to get top dollar. Around NC, I've seen normal earthshaker pins range from $1800-2300. But if a collector wants that special rare item, you will get more.

My old taxi was a Marilyn Monroe version. Not really any different from the Lola version, but to that one collector, it’s golden.

I’m currently loving my earthshaker pin. Much more so than the Getaway pin I traded it for. It is not going anywhere soon from my collection. I put in all new plastics, ramps, speakers, LEDs, etc. I’d say fix what needs to be fixed, list it for sale, and wait for that someone special while you play a classic 80’s pin with the first shaker motor ever installed in a pinball!

Got my newly acquired earthshaker all cleaned up and playing great!

So far I put in all new ramps from Marco, much thicker that OEM, which were a little problematic during the reassembly, but should hold up well.

Installed all new plastics from CPR that look great with vibrant colors along with their included topper I backlit with a 20” LED strip from comet I tied into the backbox lights.

Cointaker nonghosting LEDS on all controlled lights and cointaker premium on the GI as well as their flashers and blinker LEDs.

Flipper fidelity speakers for better sound/bass and mainly because the speakers were OEM so why not upgrade.

Took the advice from here and put on some palm trees I found a AC Moore craft store which look great to me.

All new clear star posts as well as clear Titan rubbers throughout that look and play great.

Still need to add the 1/32 scale Cadillac I bought on eBay to the left ramp as well as attempt to install mirror blades I bought. With the new ramps, And the playfield being so close to the cabinet, it may be too tight to install them. We will see. The cabinet seems to be the same as my Addams family and they fit fine on that game. This playfield seems to be a few millimeters wider. If I can’t install them now, I’m sure I will get another Williams/Bally pin later that can use them.

Lastly, To fix the issue that I had when I’m in multiball getting balls “lost” on the right ramp VUK, I received a new rom set from Matt’s basement arcade that arrived very quickly and actually look great in their shipping case. I have not installed them yet because the game is working normally with no errors. Maybe their was a loose connection before and by removing and replacing so much from the playfield, it has good connection now? We will see. at least I have a shiny new set of ROMs if I need them.

Wife really likes this pin and I love the spinner in this game, great sound from this.

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Ok got the mirror blades in! Issue with clearance was the pivot bushing was loose and the hinge had dropped down on the bolt itself! Yay. Nice and shiny now!

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That's a lovely topper. Can't wait to hear what you think of the new speakers. I've ordered a pinsound card and a speaker upgrade for my TZ but I don't know how much sense it'll make for my ES. My replacement ramps arrived but one came broken. Marco is of course taking care of it. Once my LEDs arrive from Comet I'll install the new ramps and bulbs at the same time. Meanwhile I've been playing it nonstop. High score 35M on a three ball game in factory mode with a ton of extra balls.

Interesting pivot on the original...
ebay.com link: itm
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Here's a few minutes looking at my ES after a LED upgrade, ramp replacement and general touch-up. As Djshakes mentions above, the ramps form Marco didn't fit perfectly but they're still better than what was there. Drilled new holes in the PF to accommodate. I made the center ramp fit by drilling a new top hole where the ramp connects to the inlane, about 1/4" north of the existing screw hole. It's a tight fit but thank goodness nothing ruptured locking everything down!

Does any one from Europe knows of a place where I can get myself a nice LED kit for my game?
With warm withes for GI and maybe colored ones for some or all the inserts.

Or should I better put a box together myself? If so id there some one who already has this done before and is willing to share their list and reference photos for the end result?

Thanks guys...

Just ordered loads of warm white frosted leds for GI from comet. Will post results

Yeah a before and after list of some of the more ' in sight' parts of the pf...

Thanks a M-M-M-Million.....

I guess this is before lol

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My video in post #843 has this. I made a spreadsheet planning all the bulbs and it’s linked under the YouTube video. AMA!

Pedleboy did you ever solve this? Seems like jhanley has the only answer. Here's what mine looks like, resulting in a stuck ball until the fault closes, robbing the player of the lock:

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I see in your GI section two different QC bulbs; one with 1 output and one with 2 outputs. Can't find them in the shop at Comet.
Can you specify for me? Or send me a link to the right item?
Almost done ordering now...pfff big list