(Topic ID: 275709)

Earthshaker interconnect board

By In99flames

3 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by In99flames
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PS ES C7+8.jpg
20200913_121425 (resized).jpg
ES vs GS interconnect.jpg
#1 3 years ago

Hey guys. Working on my Earthshaker....the right flipper pops its fuse when you hit its the right side cabinet button. I havent looked into it yet... but what is concerning me a bit is my interconnect board. I got some nasty charring going on near the 5w resistors. I assume this is somewhat common(not good but common) but here is my question: I swear at some point i read something about these resistors having a better replacement....or different type to use. I could be wrong. Im going to replace all of them as they arent looking too nice right now. Any recommendations on what to use or just stick to the stock type? Thanks!

#2 3 years ago

I realized i didnt post the board model! It is a D-12313-2003. I am looking through the parts listing in the original manual...it lists the board as D-12313-568. Some parts in the manual have diff specs than what is installed on my board. I also found an open resistor at R9. I may just order everything the manual states. Unless someone has found something else out.

#3 3 years ago

You might be thinking of system 3-7 where people have replaced the 27 ohm resistors with jumper wires, and the transistors with Mosfets. (I wonder if that would work on system 11? Hmmmm).

You can replace the 5 watt ones with larger ones if you can get them to fit that should help with heat dissipation - and mount them slightly off the board for better airflow. They usually have 7 or 10 watt ones available.

I know why they used the interconnect board for ease of assembly in the factory but boy do I hate them. Pretty much doubles connector issues in a game. Usually solid in home use once gone through at least.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

You might be thinking of system 3-7 where people have replaced the 27 ohm resistors with jumper wires, and the transistors with Mosfets. (I wonder if that would work on system 11? Hmmmm).
You can replace the 5 watt ones with larger ones if you can get them to fit that should help with heat dissipation - and mount them slightly off the board for better airflow. They usually have 7 or 10 watt ones available.
I know why they used the interconnect board for ease of assembly in the factory but boy do I hate them. Pretty much doubles connector issues in a game. Usually solid in home use once gone through at least.

Thats probably what i was thinking of. Something along those lines...I will mount them farther off the board. Thanks for the input

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from In99flames:

It is a D-12313-2003.

Quoted from In99flames:

I am looking through the parts listing in the original manual...it lists the board as D-12313-568.

Since D-12313 matches, you can convert the -2003 board to be a -568 by replacing what is shown in the manual.

-2003 and -568 represent the game (model) number.

#6 3 years ago

This is from the manual. Can't find info about the jumper W13/14 for lampmatrix row 1 or 2.

ES vs GS interconnect.jpgES vs GS interconnect.jpg

3 weeks later
#7 3 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

This is from the manual. Can't find info about the jumper W13/14 for lampmatrix row 1 or 2.
[quoted image]

I didnt see your reply untill today. I have had terrible board scorching under R9 and R10 which led me back here to check on resistor values. Based upon your picture of what the game should have, A previous repair was made and incorrect values were put in R9 and R10. R9 had an 11ohm and R10 had a 3ohm resistor instead of two 5.6ohm in those spots. I wonder if the scorching was caused by that....no matter I have the correct values jn there now and the board was reparable. I needed to replace the male end of connector J4 as it was deformed as well. This is the before pic

20200913_121425 (resized).jpg20200913_121425 (resized).jpg
#8 3 years ago
Quoted from In99flames:

found an open resistor at R9.

From manual it looks that R9 is used for sol#15 "low PF G.I. relay" . Think that the drive transistor Q14 was shorted and kept the relay powered ON and cooked the resistor R9.

But I'm not sure because manual and interpretation can be wrong.
To be sure, check which transitor is connected to R9.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from zaza:

From manual it looks that R9 is used for sol#15 "low PF G.I. relay" . Think that the drive transistor Q14 was shorted and kept the relay powered ON and cooked the resistor R9.
But I'm not sure because manual and interpretation can be wrong.
To be sure, check which transitor is connected to R9.

Ill do that. I do some searching on this too but, what about the large 30000uf cap in the backbox. It's pretty old now and I was thinking of replacing it. This gane is still used daily on site during the summer months so I was just trying to keep everything running nicely as long as I could. The only other issue I have with earthshaker is upon powerup. Sometimes I cannot get it to boot unless i turn it on or off 3 or 4 times. It will emit a loud high pitch noise with garbage on the displays, or it will light up with a blank display and not do anything from there. Once it boots, it is solid. Im trying to narrow down things that could cause that and it makes me think power related problems.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from In99flames:

what about the large 30000uf cap in the backbox

Quoted from In99flames:

Sometimes I cannot get it to boot unless i turn it on or off 3 or 4 times.

More likely it were the smaller caps C7 and C8 on the power supply going out of spec.

PS ES C7+8.jpgPS ES C7+8.jpg

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from In99flames:

Sometimes I cannot get it to boot unless i turn it on or off 3 or 4 times. It will emit a loud high pitch noise with garbage on the displays, or it will light up with a blank display and not do anything from there. Once it boots, it is solid.

I had a similar problem once on Earthshaker. Fixed it by replacing the capacitor at C30 on the MPU. It's right next to the battery holder.

#12 3 years ago

Thanks guys for all the info. ill post back when all is said and done.

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