So, I finally got around to swapping my ES into its new cabinet... Or should I say finishing it. Due to a hack on the interconnect board for the GI, I also decided to replace the interconnect board with a great lakes one.

So as far as what changed is, the cabinet, the interconnect board, the wiring harness to the flippers/coindoor/tilt mechanism, and the round capacitor in the lower right of the backbox.

I can still hear the relays switching back and forth... but zero insert activity, no blinking lights anywhere, only the GI is working (well and everything else about the game, I even have the sinking building mod on which is working but no lights). Pretty sure I hooked everything up exactly how it was.

I read someone that sometimes replacement boards dont work well together, I have a Rottendog CPU board in there with the Great Lakes Interconnect board, is it possible that might be a problem. I'm looking for ideas, Any help would be greatly appreciated.

While waiting for any ideas, I decided to connect (but not fully re-install) the old capacitor and when I turned the machine on, they came on briefly and very very dimly for a second and faded out to nothing again. Whether this was because I left it off for a while or switched the piece isn't clear.

I fell 2 weeks ago and fractured my foot which is still in a boot, so I finally got myself motivated to attempt finishing up this swap today and hook all the boards up.

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I'm not sure how to test them, so I just ordered 10 of them for $20 from someone on ebay. Hopefully its not the capacitor, I see those are a tad more expensive, and harder to find.

When I originally removed all the parts from the backbox, the original ones wires contacted each other the wrong way and I saw some sparks, even after it was unplugged for a while.

I guess its possible that the one in the replacement cabinet was bad, and I inadvertently fried the original one from the original cabinet that was previously working (at least hopefully since thats what I am betting this order on).

Thank you for the suggestion, hopefully it pans out.

Could someone point me toward the correct 8 amp fuse for this area? I couldn't find my multimeter so I just took the fuse from my WW and tried it and it didn't work, I also put the fuse from the ES in the WW and it also didn't work. Then when removing the "good" one from the ES with my trusty fuse puller , I broke it, now I have 2 non-functional games. I replaced the Bridge Rectifier, that didn't do the trick, at least, not right off the bat. I did that before the fuse fiasco. Of course now I am dead in the water with no known good fuse.

I googled 8 amp STD 926, and didn't find anything that looked like the fuse that was in there with the thick lighting bolt looking filament. Before putting the WW fuse in, I put an 8 Amp from my ES fuse kit in there and it basically just fried instantly which didn't surprise me too much since it looked completely different.

On a side note, anyone more adept at this want to trade a players WW and ES for an IJ4?

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Marco has every fuse in stock but the 8 Amp Slow Blow, anyone willing to sell me a few?

Would these work or are they the wrong size? Marco has 6.3mm x 32mm

ebay.com link: 5x SCHURTER BUSSMANN 8A 250v Slow Blow 5x20mm CERAMIC Fuses T8a 8 amp

Just curious... did they discontinue this particular fuse or something? I can't find anything that matches it the way that filament looks. I do have 40 8 amp 250v slow blow (delayed) fuses on the way already. I'm just curious why I can't find this specific one.

Bump for question above? Also, this is the correct Bridge Rectifier correct?

MB351 Bridge Rectifier, 35 Amps, 100 Volts

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So your saying RTFM

Ok, well I downloaded it in PDF form and the Bridge Recifier looks like it should be fine. Same 100v and 35A.

Still not sure on the fuse issue. The manual says 8 Amp, Slow Blow, 32v. The ones I ordered were 8 Amp, Slow Blow, 250v. From what you all may have known before, and I just learned myself from an old post of someone looking for the same fuse. 250v is safe to use. So I guess I have no further questions until these fuses arrive. Sorry, that fuse looked so odd, I was a little trepidatious to use something different.

Thank you again for motivating me to RTFM.

Update - The fuses worked. Also, I must have broken the fuse way back when moving the parts around from the old cabinet. The WW was back operational in 10 seconds. Th ES took a little longer. The new capacitor and bridge rectifier that were left in the new cabinet (and also the brand new rectifier I installed) must have been wired wrong even though I could have sworn I mimicked exactly what I saw on the original, it blew the new fuse instantly. I then just disconnected everything and put the old hardware from the original cabinet in (which was soldered in there positions) with the new fuse and viola...