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(Topic ID: 238180)

Early WOZ ECLE light board help


By Gotpins

1 year ago



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  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Gotpins
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#1 1 year ago

Hi All,
I'm having trouble with my WOZ light boards. I believe I have an early original 5v non buffered board version with a build date of 9/19/13. I am experiencing a problem with the playfield leds locking on. The symptoms are as follows:

Upon boot up the playfield lights work but the H (led#086) in Haunted is super bright and flickering. Once powered on a while in attract mode or during game play a portion of lights will lock on. When the lights lock on I enter led test mode and cycle through all leds starting from Led001. I have no functioning leds from #001 up to and including #086 while in test mode. The first led to turn on while in test mode after a lock up is #087 or the A in Haunted. From #087 on up to the last led work fine while in test mode and also during game play after a lock up. I reseated all connectors on the Haunted Led board (pn#15-000018-05) and all the boards that connect to it. I am still having the issue. I think I have a problem with the haunted board based on my diagnostic work and the fact that one led (#086) is doing its own thing. But perhaps there is something more to try? Is there a way to remove this board from use and jumper around it or is that only for the small boards? The website says to call before ordering a new board as there are different renditions. It's basically $200 to order a new one. I have read others got a cheaper price by returning their old board? At 200$ I may just bite the bullet and do the 2.0 upgrade. What do people in the know think? If someone could advise me as to what I should do next it would be greatly appreciated. I absolutely love WOZ. It is a favorite among friends and family and we all want it back up and running. Thanks in advance for any help people!

#2 1 year ago

If your game still has original 5.5v unbuffered boards it may be worthwhile to spend the $800 for the 2.0 kit versus spending $200 on a 5.5 buffered board. I believe JJP used to replace 5.5 unbuffered boards for free but that was early on within the first year of the game.

#3 1 year ago

Yeah, I guess I'd rather upgrade to 2.0 for 800$ than just get one board for 200$....but I hate to spend the 800$ right now just for lights. I was hoping I might be able to get a repaired board for less than 100$ for now just to be back up and running. I would think the Haunted board is what is causing the issue? I can't get a hold of anyone in JJP tech dept. to confirm that this board is indeed the culprit. I don't want to order the 200$ board for it not to fix the problem. If indeed it would fix the problem I'm still not sure I want to spend the 200$ on it or upgrade to 2.0 for 600$ more. So I'm sort of stuck and not sure what to do. I'm in analysis paralysis and need a nudge in the right direction.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

Yeah, I guess I'd rather upgrade to 2.0 for 800$ than just get one board for 200$....but I hate to spend the 800$ right now just for lights. I was hoping I might be able to get a repaired board for less than 100$ for now just to be back up and running. I would think the Haunted board is what is causing the issue? I can't get a hold of anyone in JJP tech dept. to confirm that this board is indeed the culprit. I don't want to order the 200$ board for it not to fix the problem. If indeed it would fix the problem I'm still not sure I want to spend the 200$ on it or upgrade to 2.0 for 600$ more. So I'm sort of stuck and not sure what to do. I'm in analysis paralysis and need a nudge in the right direction.

Have you tried the bypass method to take out the board you think is bad?

#5 1 year ago

I have not tried the bypass method yet. Board W5 is what I think is the problem. In the manual it looks like I could take the green plug from board #W7 and plug that into board #28 to bypass W5? Then remove W5 from use via software? I assume I'll have to remove board #159 and #160 from the software as well?

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#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

I have not tried the bypass method yet. Board W5 is what I think is the problem. In the manual it looks like I could take the green plug from board #W7 and plug that into board #28 to bypass W5? Then remove W5 from use via software? I assume I'll have to remove board #159 and #160 from the software as well?
[quoted image]

Looks that way to me. Hopefully the W7 cable is long enough to reach 28.
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#7 1 year ago

I bypassed W5 and everything seems to be working again. I guess I need to decide on a new board at 200 or the whole kit at 800. Tough decision but at least for now it’s more playable than it was. Thanks for help guys.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

I bypassed W5 and everything seems to be working again. I guess I need to decide on a new board at 200 or the whole kit at 800. Tough decision but at least for now it’s more playable than it was. Thanks for help guys.

If you get the $800 2.0 kit it will make your game rise in re-sale value by a similar amount, especially since the 5 Volt games are not nearly as desirable in the re-sale market. ECLE with 2.0 boards and the direct print cabinet is going to bring the highest price in the future.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

I bypassed W5 and everything seems to be working again. I guess I need to decide on a new board at 200 or the whole kit at 800. Tough decision but at least for now it’s more playable than it was. Thanks for help guys.

is W5 the fish shaped board?

if so your problem is a surface mount capacitor

#10 1 year ago

I sent an email to JJP to see if I can trade my old board in for a repaired one instead of buying a second board. I read somewhere around here that guys were getting repaired boards cheaper. I'm waiting to hear back. If I have buy a new board at $200 I think I'm going to save up the cash and just upgrade the whole game to 2.0. I'd hate to spend another $200 if another one goes down.

Its not the fish board. Its the Haunted forest board. Its roughly triangle shaped. Do you know of any tricks for that one?

#11 1 year ago

No w5 boards in stock. The w5 is the triangle shaped board for the haunted forest. Mine went this weekend. JJP is sending me a 7.5buffered board to replace mine.

#12 1 year ago

I’m in the same boat ! Sent serial number to JJP waiting for there reply
I have 3 games bought new from them
@ almost 30k ! I’m hoping I don’t get the banana?

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#13 1 year ago

This game has under 200 plays, direct print cab and beautiful a real bummer

#14 1 year ago

I’ve owned my WOZEC since Day one. I’ve only changed 2 boards(W5 being my second.) 15 was the other board. Been very happy with the game. Will someday update to 2.0 but not to worried about right now. WOZ is not my only JJP game either.

#15 1 year ago

I absolutely love WOZ and I think it's the best game ever made. I sold a bunch of my collection to get this specific WOZ as I wanted an original ECLE with the direct print cabinet. I figured I'd eventually run into light issues and here they are. I want this puppy to be up and running perfectly all the time so I'm willing to upgrade to the 2.0 lighting system if it is indeed that much more "solid" for the long haul. In the mean time it would be great if I could get a repaired board to hold me over for a bit while I scrape up the funds and the will to part with them for the new 2.0 light kit.

@nitrojcrawf How did you get through to JJP? I've emailed and called several times but never get a response or a person to answer the phone. I'm being patient but persistent and keep trying though. I'm a JJP fan and have supported them since day one. I know they are busy making great games but answer the phone already!

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

I absolutely love WOZ and I think it's the best game ever made. I sold a bunch of my collection to get this specific WOZ as I wanted an original ECLE with the direct print cabinet. I figured I'd eventually run into light issues and here they are. I want this puppy to be up and running perfectly all the time so I'm willing to upgrade to the 2.0 lighting system if it is indeed that much more "solid" for the long haul. In the mean time it would be great if I could get a repaired board to hold me over for a bit while I scrape up the funds and the will to part with them for the new 2.0 light kit.
@nitrojcrawf How did you get through to JJP? I've emailed and called several times but never get a response or a person to answer the phone. I'm being patient but persistent and keep trying though. I'm a JJP fan and have supported them since day one. I know they are busy making great games but answer the phone already!

You can also go to the Main WOZ thread plenty of people doing the conversion are selling the old ones at a deep discount, this is what I did since I did not want to spend the $800 and do all the work I ended up getting a full kit for like $200 so the cost of one board.

#17 1 year ago

Thanks for the heads up coz6! I might just do that at this point!

#18 1 year ago

Just to update....I got a call from Butch yesterday and he got me all sorted out. I'll have a replacement board coming soon. This should fix the problem for now and it gives me some time to purchase the 2.0 kit which I think I'd like to do since I do plan on keeping this game for life.

Just my 2 cents but I have to say that I was always and still am impressed by all of JJP. They are obviously busy and that is why they can be slow to return calls or emails, but they do get to you if you are patient and are very kind and helpful. They are passionate about their games, they WANT to build the best games and they truly WANT to make customers happy. I see it, I experienced it, and I appreciate it! Thank you JJP for a great game and great customer service when I needed it!

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