So I have a strong feeling the MPU needs to be replaced as there are several issues but before I get to that point I want to figure out the power situation. All voltage readings are good except TP 3. It's to be 11.9v DC. (Range according to what I've found online is 10.5-13.3) It's testing 15 v dc.

1st... is that too high outside the range... and 2nd how do I solve that issue?

The other question I have...Displays are all out but I'm not sure if that's a problem since it isn't booting. Perhaps they come up after the boot. My MPU is giving me the solid LED with no flashes.

However... wanted to ask a question about whether or not damage could be done by having them placed wrong. I just bought this machine and haven't moved any... however I was just looking at it tonight and all of a sudden it occurred to me that the 6 digit credit display had switched places with the player 2, 7 digit display. At some point, someone took them out and obviously swapped the two in error. I've switched them back but Im wondering the likely hood they're ruined.

Update on the displays. I've reseated U2. displays start flickering almost like they're goig through a test mode through the number. Some play field inserts are flickering and the speakers are making all sorts of noise. Reseated all other chips. No change. Led still solid

Reset working fine. Tested it by shorting u9pin 39-40 with the tester. Voltage goes from 5vdc to 0 when you short them and back up when you move to just pin 40.

I'd bet chips are shot. No corrosion on this board. It came with 2 mpu's and one is corroded out. This one is good.

I'll have to check that out. Reset is fine. Corrosion is no problem. To me it's IC's, Sockets or the Logic probe you mentioned.

Seriously?? Driver board issues can stop a boot?

Bought a new MPU... (The Alltek ultimate mpu). instructions told me to test the 5vdc on the solenoid board. Checked out fine at 5.4vdc. Then it says to test the AC reading on the same test point. It's way high. Supposed to be no more than 150mv ac, I'm getting 10.4acv. So I replaced the C23 Cap as per the instructions. No change.

Kind of at a loss.
However... one thing I noticed. Checked Test points based on what Clay Harrells repair guide suggest however the one thing I noticed is that his guide talks about AS2518-18 / AS2518-49 rectifier boards. The one in my machine is an AS 2877-1. If I google that part number it doesn't show my game as being compatible in the list.
These are my voltages off the rectifier board test points.
Test point 1 - 6vdc
Test point 2 - 235vdc
test point 3 - 6.4acv
Test point 4 - 15.8vdc (this is little high...should be 10.5 - 13.3 vdc according to Clay's guide.)
Test point 5 - 44.7vdc
Anyone know anything about this board. Can I even use it? Any suggestions on how to clean up that ac voltage? Is bridge two the issue?
I'm scared to plug in this new alltek ultimate board until I know it's good.

So. Long story short. My multi meter was screwed. Bought a new one. My voltages were fine all along. Hooked the new board up and it booted. No solenoid though. Figure the ground mods will fix this cause when I jumpered the tp1 and tp3 together on the solenoid driver board and I now had 5dcv on tp3 now. Coils worked. Only left flipper is out. I suspect a broken wire.

Lamp driver board looks to be littered with transistors bad. Most of the lights are either on solid or off permanently. Closing in on the finish.

Update. Flipper is fixed. Sort of. Was getting no voltage to the left flipper. Wiggled some wires and I had voltage. So I resoldered them. The left flipper works now but it stutters. Like as if you were ranking on the flipper button really fast. Anyone have ideas on how to fix that?

As for the lights. I went through all of them replacing old bulbs etc and most of the lights are back. I probably have about 12 lights either out or not consistently lit but most of them are bad sockets. If I wiggled the bulb they'll work. As far as I can tell there are only two bulbs stuck on. And maybe 5 sockets that no matter what I do they're off. Could be transistor. Could be just a really bad socket. I suspect I've got maybe a half dozen transistors to replace. That's a far cry from probably 20 I was thinking last night.

Appreciate any input you can give on the flipper flutter.

Thanks for the lead. I'll check it out tonight.

Resistance seems low and it's very different from the other flipper. But if it was shorted wouldn't it be locked on?

With the good flipper and my meter set to 200 ohms I'm getting around 17 when measuring from lead to switch.

The bad one I'm getting maybe 3. Is that a bad coil? Bad diode?

Beautiful. Going somewhere tonight where I have access to parts. I'll make a call tonight and pick up tomorrow. Thx.

So I replaced the coil. It's all good. Inspected the old one and the low voltage wire was indeed broken. I replaced a few burnt transistors too.

It's now fully working with a few bugs. Has about 10 bad sockets that work sometimes. And the rollover in the frontier bonus saucer area isn't registering properly. Outside of that. It's another one back from the dead.

Back again. The new flipper coil worked for a week or so. My only issue as reported was a few bad sockets. Then out of the blue the flipper I'd just replaced the coil on stopped working. When I push the plunger in and hold the button it will hold the flipper in the up position. It just won't engage the flipper so it appears the low voltage wire is working but the high voltage isn't. Any ideas.

My soldering isn't great admittedly but I don't think that's it.

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