Have you had any PCB boards made? I’d like to be able to get at least the blank PCB for an MPU2 to build. Could move over any of my existing chips that are ok. A board that matches the original would be ideal. Better than messing with my battery damaged board.

What is the part in the PLCC package? Is that a PLD or other unique part? If so will documentation be available to properly support it down the road?

Is close as in close to shipping or close to getting it working 100% and then more time to get boards built and ready? Just trying to determine if I should focus on other projects or just dive in and rework the existing MPU-2 board in the game. I know I can fix it but I am not fond of acid damage. It's a pain.

Ilikewires I'm glad to hear that you ditched the CPLD. While I know they can help simplify things they can make long tern repairs, etc a pain. Sounds like it is getting better. Hope that you're able to get the last bits sorted out and it ships sooner than later.

In the meantime I stripped down my original MPU and I think I can save it. At least enough to get the game going and get me by in the meantime Then I can replace it down the road.

Just need to see if I can find some good reference photos of the MPU-2 rev 1 that cover the area around the battery. After cleaning the board many traces are just gone. Will be making a lot of new traces on this one.

As long as that part is socketed and the same pinout as the DIP FRAM chips or modules then it shouldn't be a problem. However why not just get the DIP NVRAM modules from nvram.weebly.com and use that instead of the battery based unit? Probably around the same cost. He has them in a DIP footprint.

Maybe they are. But as long as the part is in a socket and could take either one then that would be good. Some people would prefer the FRAM chips while still available and whether NEW or NOS really makes no difference on those. On the other part with a battery it does since even though the battery isn’t supposed to kick in until first use I would want a fresh new one if possible.

There is room on your board for additional parts and my suggestion would be to make it as flexible as possible. Default setup could be for that NVRAM with internal battery like you have now or FRAM chip or hybrid FRAM module. They should all share the same pin out so any could be used.

As an alternative for down the road if those NVRAM chips become unavailable then I would add open spaces for the components like a 1n5817 blocking diode to the board along with an extra connector for an external battery pack and a spot for a coin cell holder. Those could be left unpopulated. Then that opens up an easy path to swap out a standard low power SRAM chip and someone can add the off board battery or add a holder for a coin cell (which is the only style battery I would even consider on board). Your board can then support all the options. May have to add a few components but worth considering.

I have something in progess for my Sharp Shooter and have a portion running on the bench. Just need to bring my machine home to try in the actual game. This does NOT have a Z-80, Z-80 CTC, or use the original ROM's so it is unlike either of these options but should work for people that want new custom rules. Original rules could be emulated but I can do better than that for my Sharp Shooter. Should apply to Sharp Shooter II as well as Coney Island since I think those used the same ROM's.

Anyone that wants to run original code or keep the Z-80 should wait for the other options.

It will be good to see some replacement options that are compatible with the original code. Didn't want to wait any longer to get my Sharpshooter running so I'm working on an alternate MPU based on the Arduino. Am able to control the Solenoids and lamps. Still have to resolve an issue with the switch matrix and displays. Using a WAV trigger for new sound sets. While the original rules could be coded I am focused more on it being an upgrade. I've been using a couple of my Gameplan proto boards. One is more of a bridge and the other is getting wiring closer to the original boards.

I'm sure the original poster will get his original style replacement MPU resolved and ready to go. For people that want something different with upgraded sounds and rules that is a piece I hope I'll be able to help with. So, I expect there will be several options for people going forward.

If that is the route taken then may as well go larger and do a combined ROM for all the GamePlan games and just DIP switches to select the bank and the one chip does it all.

Having the option for a single combined ROM is nice but it is also good to leave the option to use the original ROM chips and just move them over. I can see dropping support of the odd TI chips that need the negative voltage.

Any of these are already a huge improvement over the original board. Cutting traces, adding wire jumpers, etc sucks.

I always carefully clean the legs of the old chips so that isn’t an issue unless the leads are rotted. But it’s good to call it out for others that may not clean the leads as a normal practice. I just revived one of my original MPU-2 boards last night and cleaned the legs on the ICs as part of the process. It is going to get new DIP sockets shortly.

The old EPROM chips that need multiple voltages I’d replace but I’ve found the old mask ROM chips to be reliable. Only had one failure on a Firepower. As long as they are working they should be fine. In theory the mask programmed ROM should outlast the programming of any EPROM since the charge on those can bleed off (everyone refers to it as bit rot). While others may have different experiences than me over the years i’ve seen more issues with EPROMs than mask programmed chips.

They can fail and I've had one failure myself. It's just I've have far more EPROM issues. Even EPROM chips with covered windows I've seen many were a several bits have flipped back to 1's or large sections have reverted back to a blank state. Worse when people leave them uncovered. If you ever see any uncovered EPROM windows cover them with at least a piece of electrical tape.

I wouldn't write off the mask programmed chips for reliability issues. Not something that I've had issues with.

Did that come from Michigan? There was one for sale for a while that finally sold.

They are usually worse than many of the Bally boards. The early Gameplan MPU boards lack a solder mask and on those many traces are just gone. I'm rebuilding one of those but it is tedious since there are a lot of traces to re-create. I've got one of the original boards running and currently working on another to revive a 2nd Sharpshooter.

The board I’m working on now is similar to that. Many traces just gone. At least I have a working example board to compare against.

Cleaned off the corrosion with vinegar and then with the small scotch bright wheels for the dremel

It looks like there is one that is ready if you want to build your own. I'm going to try to order some PCB's and build some up to try them out:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board

There is finally an option for replacement Gameplan MPU boards:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board

I have some full kits available and can assemble one if needed. I’ve got one running in Sharpshooter and it works great.

I think Echo Lake was done making boards before this project was even announced. Most people that complained were just frustrated having machines with totally roached MPU boards and no options for replacement. The only known viable option was the Echo lake and they used this announcement as an excuse not to make any more. Really that is all on Echo Lake since they should have cranked out more boards and not care if others wanted to make alternative boards.

This project never seemed to come to fruition and since there haven’t been any updates no one knows if it ever will. Hope that the issues get worked out and it eventually works.

In the meantime Pinball Basement supposedly made a small batch of Gameplan replacement MPU boards but those show out of stock and haven’t seen any posts from anyone that bought them. So not feedback if they actually work or if they have the latest component values to work in all games including Cyclopes.

At least there is an option for those that need a replacement MPU and it was opened up so anyone can build one. Those that want to get boards made and source all the components can. Or they can get parts, kits, or even an assembled board from someone who already has.

At the end of the day it’s just nice to finally be able to get some of the Gameplan machines running again.

This thread is for a completely different design and a different board.

Wrong thread for the board you are asking about. You want to post your question in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/build-your-own-gameplan-multi-mpu-board