(Topic ID: 61582)
Linked Games
Doctor Who
Bally, 1992
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Sacramento, CA
4 weeks later
10 months later
Quoted from TaylorVA:the before and after shots are fun now…..
………that there this an after
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Amazing how much better the game looks when not faded!
Quoted from TaylorVA:Made a "cliffy" for the TE cover today. Used an old cabinet rail. Not a beauty like a Cliffy but will do.
So I took a piece of blue painters tape and stuck it to the underside of the front of the TE cover above the center target. I took this piece and laid it, ink side down, onto the cabinet rail and ran my finger over it to transfer my tracing.
You do need a cobalt drill bit as a regular bit can be a bitch to get through the SS. I used a 1/8" bit. After drilling two holes they connected themselves and I used the cutter edge to clean it out.
This is what you end up with. I have already marked about a 1/8" around the traced mark for my rough cut.I cut it out with a Dremel. Please wear safety glasses as Dremel cutters will just explode at random sometimes.
After sanding out the rough edges you edges you get this. ..Then check for fit.
I then wet sand all the edges so there are no burs or sharp spots and then grain the SS back to original.
Only cost the price of 3 cutter wheels and took about 20 minutes.
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SWEET. I just used small washers, and this blows those out of the water!
Quoted from TaylorVA:I was worried about the area above the target. Cliffy makes some for Wh2O boulders that work great that are similar to this.
I agree! Send a template to him, he may be willing to build those. It really is a nice clean design, very impressive.
Quoted from TAB:If you want to install a new mini-pf - take attention of the position of the nuts.
My one has them a little bit too high. So the mini-pf sits on the playfield.
Must cut it a little bit.
It's a CPR.
Seams i am the only one with this problem, but want to give a infoSDC11946.jpg 63 KB
If you don't want to cut the pf, you can enlongate the holes on the mounting bracket.
2 weeks later
Quoted from TaylorVA:Door came today
I was given the door by a friend in the hobby. It is the appropriate style for this era WPC and they seem to be pretty hard to find. I had another Pinsider offer to "restore" the door for me. As it was the door had four rivets on the bevel that needed to be repaired. This is how it arrived.Harness on the door was never cleaned nor were any parts tumbled.
Service switch bracket was missing by a screw and was just dangling in place.
As of now I have completely disassembled the "restored" door and am giving it a proper restoration.
Should have it done by the middle of the week.
Hmm..I have a buddy with a box or 2 full of NOS WPC coindoors from that era. He gave me one for my DW in payment for work I have done. Maybe I should get one for my WH2O as well. No clue they were hard to find!
Quoted from johnwartjr:I've never seen complete NOS doors of this era! I've got a NOS skin, but it's just the skin. Been saving it for that 'special' restoration.
I can post a pic of mine (still in the plastic bag!) when I get home. I am thinking I may have got a smokin deal 
Quoted from TaylorVA:Dealing with a TE opto issue. R1 and L1 are not working. New boards. Going to remove them tomorrow night and see if I can figure it out.
I have an issue with mine on the far left. I am pretty sure I am going to have to replace a wire between one of the boards and the connectors.
Quoted from TaylorVA:I used the body from a mechanical pencil to make shields for the outside optos on the mini playfield.
I was getting light interference from other light bounce off of the inside of the paper light shield. This did the trick.IMG_4794.JPG 194 KB
That is an awesome idea! How did you cut them down? Dremel?
Quoted from TaylorVA:Just used a sharp utility knife.
Idea is not my own. I searched and found a thread that a guy made something similar. Faz was in on that thread as well. I can't say enough for his MPF guide. Shit is top notch. I owe the man many beers.
I am gonna give it a go, but pretty sure my issue in on the board or the harness.
1 week later
Quoted from TaylorVA:Mine had been repaired(attempted at least) before it came to me. The ring and shaft
Are attached. The gear and shaft have seperated. I attempted a repair but it obviously didn't hold.
I did see the repair with the set screw but mine doesn't have a flat
spot on it.
I had mine welded at a local shop. Total cost was 3 bucks. Might be worth looking in to.
Quoted from Hawk007:THAT WAS CHEAP! The silver solder is more than that alone. It is like 20 bucks a stick at least if not more depending on the silver content. Your welder is a very nice guy! I asked our local shop to do it who we powdercoat for and he wanted 25 bucks! I would have done it but I have no silver solder left! The set screw was free and works awesome.
It was just a random shop I chose. Guy was very helpful and was curious as to what it was for. When I told him a pinball, his eyes lit up and we ended up talking for about 45 mins about games.
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