(Topic ID: 61582)

DW restore- Finished. 10-9-2014


By TaylorVA

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 330 posts
  • 51 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by RyanStl
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

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There are 330 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 7.
#51 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Thanks for posting that.
The approach to making DW seems so unique for a title that you'd figure would be less popular in the states. I remember it being on as a kid but never got into

Same here. The game is good enough to like without having to like the show. I mean, what's not to like about time travel and one of the best theme songs in television history?

I picked up some ramps from Pinball Inc and I'm working on getting them installed now. Lotsa rivets.

#52 5 years ago

So if I get new ramps, will I need a special rivet press? I have a rivet 'gun' from HD both don't assume that is what I will need.

#54 5 years ago
Quoted from Barron:

Same here. The game is good enough to like without having to like the show. I mean, what's not to like about time travel and one of the best theme songs in television history?
I picked up some ramps from Pinball Inc and I'm working on getting them installed now. Lotsa rivets.

Just read this. What do you have to rivet? They usually come with all riveted parts attached. I think the subway may have some to do. Almost that time on my end.

#55 5 years ago

Soldered in coil/flasher harness

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#56 5 years ago

Wow! Looks like it came right off the line!

Nice!
faz

#57 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Just read this. What do you have to rivet? They usually come with all riveted parts attached. I think the subway may have some to do. Almost that time on my end.

The Optos in one section are riveted on. So are two metal protectors. These do not come with the ramps, so are not pre-riveted. I personally just used really small nuts and bolts, in place of the rivets, when I installed my new ramps.. Don't have to deal with riveting and it doesn't affect gameplay.

#58 5 years ago
Quoted from daley:

The Optos in one section are riveted on. So are two metal protectors. These do not come with the ramps, so are not pre-riveted. I personally just used really small nuts and bolts, in place of the rivets, when I installed my new ramps.. Don't have to deal with riveting and it doesn't affect gameplay.

Got the new subway ramp out last night as it's coming up for install. Yep, a ton of rivets.

#59 5 years ago

Recreated the mini playfield warning decal

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1 month later
#60 5 years ago

Wondering if you've done the smaller ones for just inside the Time Expander and what process you used for printing. Thanks again for the under pf decal.

1 week later
#61 5 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Wondering if you've done the smaller ones for just inside the Time Expander and what process you used for printing. Thanks again for the under pf decal.

I only did this one as my smaller ones were destroyed. I printed it on sticker paper and used Mylar on top.

3 months later
#62 5 years ago

I'm looking for the new side art for my faded dr who cab anyone know were i can get some?

3 months later
#63 5 years ago

It has been a while but I am back into the swing of things and working on the cab.

riveting new time expander cover from Twistedpins
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I have replacement apron decals but the originals were in really nice shape so I just masked them and repainted the apron
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playfield finished other than stuff that will be put on once the game is intalled in cab
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Happy to have my work table back
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sanding fun with my daughter
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late night bondo fun
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head is ready for paint, first coat of primer on main
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#64 5 years ago

It's coming along very nicely Taylor, thanks for your updates.

#65 5 years ago

Thanks Fairground. I stalled a bit on the restore but should chug along nicely now. Getting started on the cab was such a mental hurdle and now that I'm in it i don't want to lose momentum. I have been working on getting the cab parts cleaned up.

Lockdown bar receiver cleaned up nicely.
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1 week later
#66 5 years ago

sprayed some paint this weekend.
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#67 5 years ago

I obviously hate myself.
Blocking sanding with 320.
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#68 5 years ago

Glad to see you following home work health safety, Taylor

1 week later
#69 5 years ago

making new oak chocks
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installed
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screened backbox.
Thanks to Chris Hutchins on hooking me up on the screening thing years ago.
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#70 5 years ago

installing upgraded 8" sub so making new baseplate for it.

Thanks to Tony Dziedzic for a great speaker upgrade guide.
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

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#71 5 years ago

progress..
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#72 5 years ago

Damn...this is really looking nice Taylor...well done

#73 5 years ago
Quoted from burningman:

Damn...this is really looking nice Taylor...well done

Thanks. About over the hump on this one. Really ready to play it but there is still so much crap to do.

#74 5 years ago

Making good progress mate.
The paint job looks nice, as does the silk screening.

1 week later
#75 5 years ago

Weekly update.....

Still plugging away.
Installed ground braid in base and new speaker spacer for the new 8" sub.
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Repurposed some TZ clock board optos fo my flipper boards
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On top of that I've finally cleaned the remaining harnesses, installed new zip ties, cleaned the and painted the transformer.

My game is a reimport so I completed all the correct adjustments to the transformer connectors and replaced the
MOV in the line filter assembly. Replaced a slightly damaged battery holder. Replaced pins at J120 and replaced and burned IDC connectors in the harness.
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Also modded the Drs lamp PCB so my game can fit the ColorDMD when I crack the piggy bank.
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I ended up buying replacement speakers for the backbox as well so I have disassembled the speaker grill to mod out the tweeter side to receive the new 5 1/4" coaxial speakers.

Once again I'd like to thank Tony Dziedic for the great guide. http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

Good times.

#76 5 years ago

Originally I was just going to upgrade the cabinet speaker but I'm procrastinating from putting on the cab decals so decided to upgrade the back box speakers as well. Below are some pics of my process for routing out the hole for the tweeter side of the speaker panel. I am going with two 5 1/4" coaxial speakers so both speakers will be the same.

I used the existing hole as a template to route out a template for enlarging the other hole. Went pretty quick.

Always wear safety glasses. IMG_3867.JPGIMG_3873.JPGIMG_3870.JPGIMG_3869.JPGIMG_3837.JPG

#77 5 years ago

That works better than the way I've always done it. I made a jig using a circle cutter bit in my drill press.

Slide the speaker panel into the jig, it hits a stop, clamp it in place, and run the drill bit in the center of the circle cutter into the hole in the jig.

#78 5 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

That works better than the way I've always done it. I made a jig using a circle cutter bit in my drill press.
Slide the speaker panel into the jig, it hits a stop, clamp it in place, and run the drill bit in the center of the circle cutter into the hole in the jig.

I sold my drill press and bandsaw a couple of years ago to make more room in the garage so my router has become my go to for circle cutting now. Took me a minute to figure out an easy way to do it but once I had a direction it only took about 5 minutes.

#79 5 years ago

Used 3M headlight restoration kit on my speaker panel plastic. May finish it with some flame polishing but it looks pretty decent after 2hrs or sanding and buffing. image-376.jpgimage-698.jpgimage-668.jpgimage-707.jpgimage-310.jpg

#80 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Used 3M headlight restoration kit on my speaker panel plastic. May finish it with some flame polishing but it looks pretty decent after 2hrs or sanding and buffing.

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I might have to try this on my Dredd speaker panel. It has some scuffs right in the middle of the dmd area.

#81 5 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

I might have to try this on my Dredd speaker panel. It has some scuffs right in the middle of the dmd area.

Just take your time when doing it. I did do final buffing with a power ball.image-382.jpg

#82 5 years ago

Great work thus far Taylor!

Curious which brand of black paint you ended up using for the inner cabinet on this one?

#83 5 years ago
Quoted from NM:

Great work thus far Taylor!
Curious which brand of black paint you ended up using for the inner cabinet on this one?

For the interior I used Painters Touch semi-gloss to reflect more light to the playfield. The outside of the cab I used Painters Touch Satin(Canyon Black.) You can buy satin paint pens but I could only find them through Amazon at some fabric store.

#86 5 years ago

i saw a post at some point in which someone asked how the separate tumbled parts from the medium.
I use a small magnet sweep. IMG_3945.JPGIMG_3946.JPGIMG_3948.JPG
I dump everything into a small mixing container with small holes drilled in the bottom. Spray with simple green, swirl for a couple of seconds and then rinse with hot water.
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#87 5 years ago

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#88 5 years ago

So shiny and clean! Looking great Taylor

#89 5 years ago

Get some sleep!

#90 5 years ago
Quoted from Fairground:

So shiny and clean! Looking great Taylor

Thanks. I've gotten some positive responses from people about my project and it really is nice to know people are checking out the progress.

#91 5 years ago
Quoted from boo32:

Get some sleep!

NEVER!!

Modified my Dalek mod base last night. Will make install a lot easier.

Start with 1/2"x 1 1/2" angle brackets and cut out material between existing holes and then in half.
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You end up with 4 1/2"x 1 1/2" adjustable mounting brackets.
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use existing nuts and place new brackets on base. Cut down existing screws just above the top nut.
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Install #10-32x 2" machine screws and nut.
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The new brackets can now be adjusted like so using washers to clamp down around the Dalek base.
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These screws will eventually get cut down just above the nut. The space between the Dalek base and cabinet head is covered by a decal on the topper dome.

#92 5 years ago

NICE!!!

Like it!
faz

#93 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

NEVER!!
Modified my Dalek mod base last night. Will make install a lot easier.
Start with 1/2"x 1 1/2" angle brackets and cut out material between existing holes and then in half.

You end up with 4 1/2"x 1 1/2" adjustable mounting brackets.

use existing nuts and place new brackets on base. Cut down existing screws just above the top nut.

Install #10-32x 2" machine screws and nut.

The new brackets can now be adjusted like so using washers to clamp down around the Dalek base.

These screws will eventually get cut down just above the nut. The space between the Dalek base and cabinet head is covered by a decal on the topper dome.

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Really smart solution!

#94 5 years ago

I think you should consider a separate threw for the Dalek solution. I'm pretty sure I remember people having trouble with the install.

#95 5 years ago
Quoted from boo32:

I think you should consider a separate threw for the Dalek solution. I'm pretty sure I remember people having trouble with the install.

Faz started one yesterday and I added the mod I show above to it today. I will continue to add to it while I do my install. Getting the Dalek body to securely attach to the base needed to be figured out before I install it on the head so now that I feel like I found a decent solution I won't be adding to that thread until final install of the mod.

#96 5 years ago

got crafty this evening.

Bought some vinyl cling sheets from Office Max at .30c a sheet and used my wife's Cricut to cut out some cabinet
protectors for the flipper buttons and start hole.

Took a little to figure out the machine but it is actually pretty cool.
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after cutting start hole protector
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voila!
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protectors for around the flipper buttons and start hole protectors. Coffee is for closers.
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#97 4 years ago

head....
hit with non scratch scouring pad
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Tack cloth (I wear a glue so the tack doesn't get on my hands)
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Wipe down
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Position decal and check for marginimage-597.jpgimage-560.jpg

Install decal
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Sand edges
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Paint edge (satin paint marker)
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Voila..
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Go to bed.....

#98 4 years ago

Sand the edges? I have never seen it done that way.

#99 4 years ago

So close

Looks incredible

#100 4 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Sand the edges? I have never seen it done that way.

I think Allen Shoppe posted about this years ago. It really stuck with me. It works well but your sand paper needs to be pretty fresh. I made a couple blocks with 400 grit paper and wish I had made more.

Did fuck up my coin door decal tonight which sucks. It is not something that many people will notice but it is there.
Just a humble reminder that I'm a hobbyist. Shit happens though so Im not going to sweat it.

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There are 330 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 7.

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