(Topic ID: 148635)

Duotron Transformer Wiring Help


By osudrummer

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Robotworkshop
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Looking to put a new electrical cord on my Duotron I'm trying to get going. I wasnt having a power issue until i replaced one of the flipper coils and now i get shocked by the cabinet. Looking at vids guide i assume the broken ground plug had reared its ugly head. Now that i am looking at all the wires on the transformer many were cut and respliced, should i remove the sections closer to the transformer so i have one wire with no splices? Also want to make sure but it appears i need to put thw black wire from the new cord onto the fuse and the white wire on the bottom right of transformer? Also what is the little white wire that is not attached to anything? Looks like it may have been on the ground at one point.

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#2 4 years ago

I guess if someone could post a pic of their transformer from a similar gottlieb that would help too, thanks!

#3 4 years ago

remove the red wire from the HIGH tap, resolder the red wire that is on the normal tap.
remove "if you want to" the short black wires, and solder blk wires directly to 3rd lug on transformer.
same for the black/white wires, but to 4th lug.
Remove the white wire from the transformer bolt, I believe that is AC hot, not to be grounded.
where does that loose red wire go?
Hot from power cord through fuse to left bottom lug on transformer.
Neutral from power cord to right lug on bottom of transformer.
Ground from power cord to transformer bolt.
That shud get you started

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

now i get shocked by the cabinet

I can't imagine.

#5 4 years ago

Not a great pic, but one I could find on quick glance.

From a '75 single-player.

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#6 4 years ago

Thanks that gives me a lot to go on!

Quoted from SirScott:

I can't imagine.

#7 4 years ago

Loose red wire looks like came from the bottom on the normal tap but could be the other bottom tap according to dirtflippers picture. Let me get the other wires sorted and i will take another picture.

#8 4 years ago

ok, i got the hot and return backwards, sorry,

#9 4 years ago

If you need a house call there are medics available

#10 4 years ago

Perhaps i do, since you are in Southlake i dont imagine you are offering your services are you?

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

ok, i got the hot and return backwards, sorry,

Okay so the hot goes to the fuse and the white (neutral) goes to bottom left tap?

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

Okay so the hot goes to the fuse and the white (neutral) goes to bottom left tap?

yup.
and it looks like that shiny red goes to bottom right lug

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

yup.
and it looks like that shiny red goes to bottom right lug

Thanks!

#14 4 years ago

Got everything fixed and attached as recommended. Now what are my chances of plugging in and not dying??

#15 4 years ago

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#16 4 years ago

That certainly looks much better.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Darcy:

That certainly looks much better.

Thanks, anyone else before i go for the gusto?

#19 4 years ago

Works great! No more shocks from the cabinet!!
I rebuilt the flippers today which consisted of new coils/sleeves, coil stops, plungers, bushings and EOS switches. My problem is the left flipper is considerably weaker than the right. At first the right side was equally as weak but after machine gunning them a bit the right got a lot more snappy. What else would cause a loss of power? I have cleaned the flipper switches but maybe they are too far gone? I went by vid's guide and the coils themselves are tight, etc.

#20 4 years ago

Power has to go through the cabinet flipper switches and EOS switch, then overcome the return spring tension.

So cabinet switch could be pitted/dirty, EOS switch may not be fully closed, and/or return spring is too tight. For the return spring, there should only be enough tension to get the flipper to flop back down, which isn't much. Flippers that machine gun sometimes are a due to the return springs being wound way too tight.

Also make sure the coil wiring got attached in the right places.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Power has to go through the cabinet flipper switches and EOS switch, then overcome the return spring tension.
So cabinet switch could be pitted/dirty, EOS switch may not be fully closed, and/or return spring is too tight. For the return spring, there should only be enough tension to get the flipper to flop back down, which isn't much. Flippers that machine gun sometimes are a due to the return springs being wound way too tight.
Also make sure the coil wiring got attached in the right places.

Okay thanks I will check those out!!

#22 4 years ago

Any further pics needed LMK I gave a Duotron

#23 4 years ago

Thanks, good for now but may ask you down the road!

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

Any further pics needed LMK I gave a Duotron

Okay i could use your help, the manual says a 5" rubber goes around this middle area but i cant figure it out. Could you please send me a pic of how you have this area setup?

Thanks

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#25 4 years ago

Ok not home now but I'll shoot you a pic tomorrow am

#26 4 years ago

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#27 4 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

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Perfect, thanks so much!!!!

#28 4 years ago

Ahh now I see my problem, looks like there is a semi-circle piece of plastic that keeps the captive ball from hitting the light and getting stuck. You dont have an extra of those do you? I got my game with the playfield stripped and was missing a bunch of stuff. The catalog didnt reference those skinny posts either.

#29 4 years ago

Cal PBR for the posts , maybe you can fabricate the piece of plastic .

#30 4 years ago
Quoted from 1974DeltaQueen:

Cal PBR for the posts , maybe you can fabricate the piece of plastic .

If you can scan that plastic... I could make a replica.

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

If you can scan that plastic... I could make a replica.

That would be amazing.

#32 4 years ago

This thread makes me miss my Duotron. Great game. Love the backglass.

#33 4 years ago

Howdy folks. Game is up and running which is amazing given where it was a few months back. A couple lingering issues i am trying to figure out, it does not score any bonus or 500 point scores. Additionally the right flipper occasionally buzzes REALLY loud when held even though it is brand new and everything is tight. Main concern of course is the bonus. None of these lights in the middle move up and the side kickers dont score anything when hit.

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#34 4 years ago

Do you have the schematic?

Find the "Add Bonus" stepper coil and see what the switch logic is to activate it.

The flipper buzzing may be due to the plunger and coil stop not being aligned straight with each other, or the return spring tension is wound too tight.

Might want to start a separate thread for additional debugging issues since the transformer wiring is sorted out.

#35 4 years ago

For the bonus check the ratcheting bonus wheel under the playfield. As I recall if its damaged it may not advance the bonus.

When you hit the add bonus switch does it make any noise at all?

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Do you have the schematic?
Find the "Add Bonus" stepper coil and see what the switch logic is to activate it.
The flipper buzzing may be due to the plunger and coil stop not being aligned straight with each other, or the return spring tension is wound too tight.
Might want to start a separate thread for additional debugging issues since the transformer wiring is sorted out.

Wasn't sure of the etiquette involved in starting another thread on the same game. Will start one now. I do have the schematic, i took your advice and loosened the return springs so the flippers just flop down. Will check alignment but the coil stop and plunger are both new.

#37 4 years ago

I would check the EOS switch of that flipper. (End of stroke).
Had the same issue, the coil was buzzing because of the current percentage.
When you push the flipper button the EOS switch is designed to reduce the current voltage on the coil.

1 year later
#38 2 years ago

I have a Duotron that I need to install a new power cord on. It has part of the original cord left in the machine and someone spliced on a new piece of cord that is now falling apart. This thread mentions the power cord colors but I bought an original style power cord as the correct replacement. I plan on carefully pulling the old power cord out of the harness and pulling the new one through as it was. It will be tricky and tale some time but I have done it before with good results.

My issue is that the power cord it not color coded except for the ground lead. It looks like the new power cord has a ribbed edge on one side. From what I can tell it also looks like the original power cord may have had a rib going to the fuse. I'd like to confirm that the ribbed side should be going to the fuse and the non-ribbed lead going to the transformer. Can someone confirm that? It was probably the same for other Gottlieb games as well.

Also, is there supposed to be a knot or strain relief on the cord other than where the harness is screwed to the base? If anyone has pictures that would help.

Thank you,

Robert

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