(Topic ID: 259053)

Dumpster save '76 Night Rider


By cp1610

1 year ago



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  • 44 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 months ago by cp1610
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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15
#1 1 year ago

Yes that's were it should have probably gone just on outside looks. But i just can't do it or part out complete game either. Being my 1st em the fun now begins for me. Been messing with it for a while. Have game to the point i have lights, flippers, score reels all work cleaned a few sluggish score reels. Game coins up ejects ball scores but is hung in loop at reset of drop targets. Sometimes stops this but then ball count doesn't advance either. But cycles fine buy moving solenoids by hand. Have checked all switches on drop target banks nothing askew there. Top dead center bonus kicker doesn't eject ball either Game does complete reset with playfeild jones plugs pulled.

Didn't think this would be that much of a mystery having worked on system 1 gottlieb and data east ss games prior have book and schematics but following them is not as easy as the ss games i'm used to. So i come here to learn form the wise members of the fourm.

#2 1 year ago
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#3 1 year ago

My uncle has one of these and it is fun fun fun!!! I love it.

#4 1 year ago

One of the best 70's multiplayer EM's, keep at it!

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#5 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Game coins up ejects ball scores but is hung in loop at reset of drop targets.

How far is it getting in the reset sequence?
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1677/Bally_1976_Night_Rider_Manual.pdf

#6 1 year ago

I love the Night Rider "trucker" theme. I can picture these at truck stops along interstate highways in the 70's. Nice rescue!

#7 1 year ago

Good for you saving that machine!

#8 1 year ago

My Night Rider EM is my first pin and by far the most beat up playfield, worse than yours. It is also my favorite in my collection and the last one I would let go, very fun fast player.

#9 1 year ago

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I have more pictures to show its beauty or there lack of and another question found two wires loose in head looks to be tied to match unit/0-90 as the loose tag i found says. Did make a copy of schematics and yes going old school busting out color pencil or markers and going to color wires on it as per color code chart it my quest to better understand them. May get to the reset sequence was reading book last night but no bells or light going off in my head.

The hope is to get this dog working play it and decide how much money i want to blow on this. The right way would push $1200 + new back glass ,playfeild to cabinet redo etc. But have other project games i can loose money in to them seeing they are worth more.

#10 1 year ago

One of my favorite games, thanks for saving another!

#11 1 year ago

How bad is the cabinet?

#12 1 year ago

Lots of bumps a bruises paint coming off game was exposed to moisture at some point likely sat outside in barn/garage/covered porch. Head still has art but paint failure and failed glue joints planking on all wood including playfeild ,light board has swollen from moisture. Plywood on sides at bottom is coming apart. My reason in saving game is its complete even cardboard box holding documents and extra score cards. At some point playfeild was painted by number and every thing plastics rubbers posts spayed with some sort of clear coat. Metal stuff just dirty and minor moisture damage mudd dobbers have lived here also had mud blobs everywhere. Cleaning up heavy dirt as i go.

Now the Hokus Pokus That i bought looks nicer out side but mess inside but it doesn't do much of anything few lights.
So my logic was i got 2 ems ones kinda working but looks bad other looks good but dead inside needs lots of love which it will get. But start on semi working game and learn the em way and mindset on whats to most a parts box so i screw up it sucks but not as bad of a loss. Now i go screwing up a nice looking game for its age minus the butchered rails i should receive a beat down with a widebody game. Had to take night rider in deal for Hokus Pokus was told you need a parts box well shall see.

You know whats better then one em with spinners and the over the top buzzer is two games more spinners and over the top buzzers. Have a backup plan if one of the buzzers is broken have an old fairaday 6" gong fire alarm bell i can sub via multi pole relay that will get you. My nieces and nephew thought the scream in Ghostbusters (Premium/LE) was something.

1 week later
#13 1 year ago

Got back to my box of trouble
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Still chasing the drop targets reset issue only to find this hack obviously wrong part some how 13 ohm and 47 ohm were the same in someones eyes. getting frustrated with the schematics not making the most sense as to the chosen layout. Having taken drafting and blue print reading/drawing class as part of my job you would think it would just be a simple read. looks as per paper work need a g-31-2000 so add that to my order. looking for picture of this drop target reset relay assembly from a known working game as a reference to see what else is hacked.

#14 1 year ago

These are like reading the TV guide easy as to the em ones. Have been lurking/reading old basement night rider threads/posts also in hope of finding the light in this project.
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#15 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

These are like reading the TV guide easy as to the em ones. Have been lurking/reading old basement night rider threads/posts also in hope of finding the light in this project.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I am not the best at reading schematics, i also found this games especially difficult, but my game is in decent shape and is 100% functional so if you need any pictures let me know.

#16 1 year ago

CPR has replacement backglasses available now, and playfields shortly - love my Night Rider - feel like a teenager again every time I play it Nothing says the 70s like cb radios, truckers and old Smokey -

#17 1 year ago

Made a small bit of headway got the lost wires in back box back to there right place on the 00-09 unit assembly in back box. Will need a few clear pictures of relay assembly on left side bottom of cabinet at back by transformer have wooden stick in picture of location. Marked as drop target relay. when moving this getting a fair amount of blue arc /flame action will check contact surfaces next.
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#18 1 year ago

Also saw that the switch stack at score motor has some less then pretty switch blades. Not going to touch this until I have to.
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Have seen that cpr is doing the playfeild and backglass is done but i see it is for the solid state version. Dosen't have white mask at score windows for reels not that i can't fix that also. As i said before not having played a proper working Night Rider EM before its tough to commit a lot in to the game.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

These are like reading the TV guide easy as to the em ones. Have been lurking/reading old basement night rider threads/posts also in hope of finding the light in this project.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Question- Those are not Night Rider EM schematics that you have posted, just using them as an illustration?

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Also saw that the switch stack at score motor has some less then pretty switch blades. Not going to touch this until I have to.

Don't- Unless they are burned up or snapped off the EM switches are very rugged. Get a tool for adjusting switches and a flexstone for cleaning them and that is about all you need. You might be tempted to use an emery board, don't as it leaves particles of stone behind and makes a nifty insulator on the contacts. Been there done that.

Get the game running right and then give it a go, it will cost you almost nothing, a few coils at best. Night Rider is a very fun EM, one of the best Bally's made in the 70's I'd wager. At that point you can decide if you wish to go further or not. The CPR SS playfield can be used for EM but something about the pop bumpers is slightly different and not a big deal.

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#21 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Made a small bit of headway got the lost wires in back box back to there right place on the 00-09 unit assembly in back box. Will need a few clear pictures of relay assembly on left side bottom of cabinet at back by transformer have wooden stick in picture of location. Marked as drop target relay. when moving this getting a fair amount of blue arc /flame action will check contact surfaces next.
[quoted image]

I'll try to get some photos tonight.

#22 1 year ago

I can't not think about "Porkchop Express" when I look at the backglass. Kudos on saving a classic!

#23 1 year ago

No I have the right factory paper work came in little box with game manual and score cards. I'm just not use to this style of schematics got used to ones from old stereos from the 70's and many of car service manuals but there choice of layout seems odd.
The others pictured above in other post are just
reference. One is a dataeast game other is gottlieb system 1 they can be followed easily and read with ease.
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#24 1 year ago

It'll sure take some doin', but thanks for saving it from a horrible fate.

#25 1 year ago

Found using these gets the Jones plug sockets clean took forever to find them old guys know them as carburetor brushes. Auto parts store lists them as valve guide and micro bore brush set.
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#26 1 year ago

Where can we get those?

#27 1 year ago

Duh! Look at the container, dummy!

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Duh! Look at the container, dummy!

This:
From the Capt Obvious website:
Ipatools.com

#29 1 year ago

Had them ordered at my favorite mom and pop auto parts store not a big fancy flashy place. Just counter a little display space and counter in front tall long narrow isles of auto parts. As stated web address on tube is www.ipatools.com part#8087.

#30 1 year ago

I hope these help. Let me know if you need anything else.

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#31 1 year ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Had them ordered at my favorite mom and pop auto parts store not a big fancy flashy place. Just counter a little display space and counter in front tall long narrow isles of auto parts. As stated web address on tube is www.ipatools.com part#8087.

amazon.com link »

#32 1 year ago

Thanks @swmurphy this helps me now i can check all the wiring at both of those relays think only the coil was mangled but was not sure about switch stacks. Waiting on my pinball resource order to show with coils etc.

3 weeks later
#33 1 year ago

I got the chime coil replaced and rebuilt chimes with kit from pbr. Only to realize the main reason for order was for drop target coil but some how forget it so yes another order. So now their in the game so go to do some testing only to find out game will not rest now and games don't end still and drop targets only rest once. Also lost other functions i had before.

This is the joy I get all day I fix something only to have it break more. So yes I kind of made progress but also no.
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5 months later
#34 7 months ago

Well I've coming back to my not nice pinball between covid monkey business and life been to busy and mentally fried to mess with it. Finally pulled bottom board and cleaned up mudd dobber mess and yes like I expected found this stuff laying in bottom. Wire with crimp in square plug clearly not from game but lost hardware came from some where. Two look to be some sort of pin with e clip slot.

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#35 7 months ago

Ok seems like dumb question but why are only 3 of the coil frames shock mounted? Only thought I had was to keep you from shaking game to earn credits. I did the orange wire nut but wire goes to no where so tomorrow's project. Love the just pretty Jones plug.

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#36 7 months ago

Those bolt looking things are to hold the drop target reset bracket to the coil. Maybe fell and were lost years ago if yours are intact.

#37 7 months ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Ok seems like dumb question but why are only 3 of the coil frames shock mounted? Only thought I had was to keep you from shaking game to earn credits. I did the orange wire nut but wire goes to no where so tomorrow's project. Love the just pretty Jones plug.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My Captain Fantastic has a similar burned pin in the Jones plug. Mine goes to the fuse block, IIRC. I can double check for you tomorrow.
Might check that.

#38 7 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Those bolt looking things are to hold the drop target reset bracket to the coil. Maybe fell and were lost years ago if yours are intact.

Your correct must have been old ones some past owner just left in game. So after some head banging the schematics i have made a little more sense and went after a few switches with flex stone file one light run over the contacts when i discovered the new flex stone files are junk just leave sandy residue then saw a post in another thread about this very issue with flex stone files. So finally have time to get back to fight again now cleaning up mess from flex stone file.

Having bottom board now pulled up and out i can get in there better and go through it.
As to reset sequence once i'm done with this step will makes notes and give that status then maybe be able to actually give it a play then decide its fate in my hands.

#39 7 months ago

Here's the area that burned on mine. Did you find where it should go? Wire was originally white/green, but I didn't have one long enough in my spare wire.

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#40 7 months ago

Thanks for the picture @treborlicec. Clearly that circuit is a problem on the game yours, mine and others. Now yes over fusing, crappy fuse blocks are also part of the equation here. Found he same thing in the back box in my game. A past owner at some point had bypassed with a crimp on insulated quick connect which still works fine so i'm leaving it may do the same here also.

#41 7 months ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Thanks for the picture treborlicec. Clearly that circuit is a problem on the game yours, mine and others. Now yes over fusing, crappy fuse blocks are also part of the equation here. Found he same thing in the back box in my game. A past owner at some point had bypassed with a crimp on insulated quick connect which still works fine so i'm leaving it may do the same here also.

Bally is known for crappy fuse blocks back in that era. I replaced all of them on this Capt. Fantastic. The ones in my Old Chicago are good and tight and no issues that I have found. *Knocks wood.*

1 week later
#42 7 months ago

Finally got bottom board back in game after checking for loose wires got all Jones plug cleaned they like silver now not the rotted zinc/potmetal they were. Also went through coin unit and ball count unit all coil sleeves and plungers are clean and contact points.

Yes I swore I wouldn't go there but I just had to with blue sparking and black stuff. I pulled each score motor switch stack and cleaned switch contacts many were pitted and dark as night. Between fiber brush a jewelers file each contact is now some level of shine. I hoped going through this nasty process I would get results. Not so but didn't make game worse either

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#43 7 months ago

In picture in above post found while going through assemblies on playfeild found semi trashed coil plunger on top hole unit things were cleaned up and put back together. Will replace broken part at later time doesn't seem to affect function at all. my current book makes no reference to any start up sequence deal with this later.
Upon power up at cabinet switch getting playfeild lighting and box light up. Rest button on coin door does nothing but activating coin switches on inside door hear coin solenoid function but no change in back box at credit wheel.
but when rest relay is moved by hand on lower play board game comes to life but no ball eject and upper kick out don't work.
I have pop bumbers with scoring, spinners work great makes the score reels fly,flippers,drop targets are machine gunning while resting and no points being counted. Slings and rollovers all work and score. no end of ball or playfeild bonus countdown.

#44 6 months ago

Did some searching and found this on empin wiki site for the startup sequence for Bally. Hope in next few days get back to this.

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