(Topic ID: 256547)
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Firepower
Williams, 1980
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Put the better playfield on the rotisserie and finished the tear down.
I sprayed enough Mean Green on it in hopes that’ll it’ll piss off vid1900 enough to log back in and scold me.
I got halfway done with cleaning it up tonight after the family left from our holiday dinner.
I’ll remove the pop bumpers and finish the top half tomorrow.
56F82B66-51D2-470E-99BB-1937A0E6E7B5 (resized).jpeg35E59874-BF20-486E-AF1D-AB527777C4A0 (resized).jpegEEA87133-7BEC-4ED0-B4AE-51CD0DE95E04 (resized).jpegC178BBDA-2287-4CA7-8821-2C30F0D45B99 (resized).jpeg34C46A4E-271D-4EE6-839A-DA92A095F00E (resized).jpeg201A7451-4C52-4BD6-A294-2B5DE1DF6E04 (resized).jpegQuoted from Biffbar:How far are you taking the rebuild? The one playfield looks reasonably good. Going for the "player", or doing a hardtop & cabinet paint? Whichever way you go, in the end you will have a really good game to play.
Dumpster reference caught my attention. Built one up two years ago, a player, from accumulated parts. I don't want to tell you how long it sat around before I got to it. Had a planked cabinet from an open shed, where the head had rotted away (pulled boards and left the rest for the trash). The playfield survived thanks to the glass over it, and an operator applied clear coat. Found another backglass and head at a pinball show.
This is a project to keep me busy so I plan on doing as much as I can. I’m actually going to restore the one playfield. So I’ll touch it up after I get it clean, then I’ll replace a bunch of inserts, and in the spring I’ll clearcoat it.
I’m also going to hardtop the other playfield since it’s a complete mess.
More than likely I’ll put the hardtop in the machine and then sell the restored playfield.
Took the beat playfield outside this morning to sand it down.
Seems to be a bit of mouse piss damage and a couple broken screws.
I’ll drill out the screws and dowel the holes.
I have a few cracked plastics I’ll need to replace. I might just buy all new plastics, depends on my mood I guess.
E5B1CC7A-D49C-4471-AA09-8402AC4B2B4B (resized).jpeg608B1E1D-69C7-436B-A174-8E99798FEABF (resized).jpegRemoved the curled up arrow inserts, pop bumpers, and the Mylar. Everything was going fine until I started removing the adhesive with alcohol and flour and one of the pops the paint rubbed right off like it was a sheet of paper.
Really strange.
Oh well I’ll repaint it, I think it’s ready for some touch ups.
F97A137A-4A21-40E5-A0C4-7DD71A043ECD (resized).jpeg7C4E3C52-497A-4860-BBB6-1EE1E911A7F6 (resized).jpegD8A9EBCF-9DAB-4281-B2B2-9247CB474F1D (resized).jpegTo practice getting the feel for popping out inserts, sanding, then reinstalling them, I threw the beat hardtop play field on the rotisserie and pushed out the ones that were cupped so bad I couldn’t properly sand them.
Now this is not something you HAVE to do for a hardtop install but I did it anyway for the practice.
I’m going to pop all the inserts out on the good pf to level so I don’t have to screw around too much with eye dropping clear coat later on during this project.
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Quoted from slochar:Mayfair probably has the backglass in stock with their seemingly "endless" supply of NOS firepower and black knight glasses.
I actually have a lead on really nice one. More to come on that.
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:You worked on it until you were blue in the face?
Yeah pretty much 
My wife stopped down in the basement to see how I was because I was quiet for a while. She interrupted herself when she saw what I was doing with:
“Hey babe, you doing alri...JESUS! Why are you such a psycho?!!”
I think it’s necessary
2 weeks later
I decided to pop out all the inserts. Sanded down with 400 grit and reinstalling to hopefully avoid ghosting. Got some help in the firepower club thread with finding all the insert key lines to apply after a level layer of clear.
D356C72A-4DE5-42DE-9D12-4A23834882B6 (resized).jpegE7CC9F4B-32D2-44FD-AACA-FC28A50CFA43 (resized).jpegI wanted to up my game with doing restos so I decided to get an airbrush. Found a nice kit on amazon for $90 came with 3 brushes and a compressor.
Never dabbled with airbrushing before so I tried a few color transitions.
84293437-1D05-4C93-870E-8A0926ADC89A (resized).jpeg7F4FDE63-32EB-4CF4-BEA2-6DA1C0F1608A (resized).jpegF6941E8D-EA32-46AE-8160-2B0E45DB7831 (resized).jpeg357653A7-31A2-4F9E-806A-61DD5A230987 (resized).jpegThe first thing I’m doing is painting all the reflective areas under the plastics white.
Makes for a major difference. It’s actually pretty easy doing it like this compared to a regular brush like I normally do.
Although I’m not a fan of cutting the frisket. I cant seem to get the feel for pressure, speed, accuracy, plus making sure that the blade gets changed when it starts to dull.
5B420C0D-F436-416C-A917-6BF13AEADFC8 (resized).jpegF2562ADB-EC64-45D9-85E7-7225C576A39F (resized).jpegE2FA0B0A-0111-48B6-AEE2-55BB8D9252FF (resized).jpegI got bored doing the white. I wanted a challenge so I decided to redo all the red and fix the laser burst up to the right. I’m addicted to airbrushing!
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1 week later
There’s gotta be an easier way. The whole time the little voice in my head is saying. “Just buy the hardtop”
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I couldn’t seem to get the aged white to be perfect so I got it close, flooded the bare wood areas, then fanned the surrounding areas with the off white.
Then had to paint all the planet designs back on to hide the touch up.
Not happy with it but whatever.
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Quoted from Schwaggs:The planet looks great. I'd be happy with that!
Thanks!
I’m really hard on myself, and I’m especially frustrated lately with color matching. I had a good streak of hitting colors dead on the money but lately I can’t seem to get it right.
I set the playfield aside for a bit to give my eyes a rest.
Started cleaning the wires for the displays and attempting to repairing the master display board.
They were filthy. The mud dripping off these after spraying mean green is in unreal.
I probably need to replace all the connectors. The thought of doing this for 300 wires makes me nauseous.
I move some unused traces over to replace the missing ones and glued the glass back onto the board. Need a few resistors and I should be ok.
D840A5F8-15F4-4266-A183-A41CAE50C4D5 (resized).jpeg21E9FADB-0A02-4BC5-AB92-846F5FEE9B1C (resized).jpeg7C7A80D6-F634-4E07-A5F1-8C66FF06ECF8 (resized).jpeg80E39802-78A8-4AFC-8D86-2C85B593ABC1 (resized).jpegQuoted from Schwaggs:The resistors you mention are all the 10k resistors near the top of the master display board, right? Several look toasty in your pictures.
Be careful with those display connectors. Those contacts have long been discontinued and are pricey to replace if you can even find them. They rarely fail anyway. If you have a bad contact, try lightly cleaning the contact fingers on the board with a fiberglass sanding pen.
Yes I believe they are all 10k resistors. I’m about to buy a bunch. Might just shot gun it and replace them all to keep myself occupied. As for the contacts the transfer went pretty well. As you can see in the last pic I got them all situated. I really hope this works.
Does anyone know of a way to test the displays without having them installed. I won’t have this backbox ready for power for quite a while and I’d like to see if these things are working.
Maybe alligator clips and a battery on certain points. Anything just to see if the digits light up?
Quoted from Bc3:Just wondering if you have any pics and what you used to glue the display back on? The double sided tape on mine has failed and is leaning away from the pcb. Thanks
I just superglued mine back nothing fancy
Quoted from Mbecker:Your pf painting brings back a lot of memories doing mine.. although I hand painted (airbrushing is so much better!!) I only planned on doing touchup and bare wood repaint but ended up going farther and farther, repainting all back and star background and off white over all the scoring lettering. Tedious!
Caution with those key lines — I used the same ones. If your auto clearing it’s prob fine but if you’re going with hand paint or spray can Clear — I sanded and leveled all my inserts and those damn key line stickers Raised the areas and made it impossible to get a really flat clear layer even after a ton of coats (I was using spray cans)
I’m going to print the key lines on water slide decal paper so hopefully it’ll be ok. Thanks for the heads up!
Quoted from RandyW:Mayfair's emails seem to not work. Are they still in business?
I tried to reach out to them last year about a Shangri La backglass and never got any response.
I’m not a religious man, but Lord give me strength...
The stench of mouse piss is making me gag.
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Anyone know if you can soak a transformer to clean it?
As much as I want to seem like I know what I’m doing I’m often reminded that I’m clueless.
I need to replace several pins and connectors on this game.
I want to buy things from Great Plains but I’m not sure which pins or connectors to get for this game.
What I see on the game I’m not seeing match with the pictures for connectors which makes me think the body style is different or something.
What part number pin and part number connector should I get to replace this?
D4EC3D00-5995-46DD-BAB7-11553A3FD470 (resized).jpegQuoted from mbwalker:Holler if you need a set of displays. I have 4 that were working plus the Master Display. The Master Display PWB has problems, but the display is fine. Got tired of fooling around w/the hard to obtain high voltage chips - went w/the WolfPac LED version instead.
Came out of a World Cup (Sys 3). Ugh...that was a bear to work on.
I might take you up on that. Initially I was going to do the Wolfpac LEDs but I started tinkering around. PM me how much you were gonna sell them for. I’ll get back to you.
I think I got the playfield as good as I can get it for clearcoating. After I lay the first coat down and level it for the water slide decals I’m see what else needs touched up before the final coats.
FD543671-CD08-4C8E-A570-7B7D9F04B755 (resized).jpegB532BB8F-1835-4783-921C-838802675F2F (resized).jpegCleaned up the transformer and all attached wiring. Holy crap that was awful. Took forever from being as careful as I could not to get water in the center. Once it was clean of mouse feces I brushed on naval jelly to dissolve the rust. I might paint it later on in the resto.
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1 week later
Quoted from CanadianPinball:If the sound board is working, caps should be it.
Ok good to know. I won’t know until I get the other boards and chips. Long way to go...
2 weeks later
Not my best work but the coin door is better I guess. Pretty sure this piece of crap sat in a lake for a while.
On the hunt for the other 2 yellow credit switch covers and a washer and nut for the high score reset button.
Also I decided to use the prototype drop target art for the center coin acceptor.
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She is pretty pissed that I do that
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:wow, that looks AMAZING! That's the same coin door?!
What did you use on it?
Chris
I just soaked everything thing in evaporust. The front had some scratches so after the chemical bath I just wet sanded it for about 30 minutes with 1500 grit sandpaper.
Typically I would’ve hand sanded every piece to remove the pitting then tumbled everything but I’m just loosing motivation I guess.
I appreciate the compliments though.
In case anyone has some extras laying around, im looking for 2 of those credit switch covers.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-credit-switch-covers-for-coin-door
Quoted from CPR:Firepower PFs being cleared as I type this
How many did you guys clear, like 2?
Thanks man, I’m in a mental dilemma about this game. Initially I wanted to just bring it back to life. So I guess I was going for a player and not a show piece. But I keep thinking, “if I just do a little more with this part....” and “I might as well just strip it completely”
So in the end it’ll probably be a show piece hahaha
I’m considering taking the door apart again and redoing it.
Got my new power supply, MPU-Driver combo, and replaced all the caps on the sound board.
56274604-4FF1-4352-BC63-A7289A86FCF7 (resized).jpeg4DE5CA83-99E9-4C2E-A5A5-79A197283166 (resized).jpeg599A5A16-7F0B-46D5-8EA7-DB7751FB5704 (resized).jpegB2AC29C3-E270-400D-8FF9-82D271991893 (resized).jpeg81512554-D360-4C4C-B71B-65C39296BDEE (resized).jpegPulled all the metal out of the back box and cleaned it up. It’s interesting how the one sheet is “stained” from the original sticker. I’m not too worried, my replacement sticker will cover it.
Also it appears this is a Blackout backbox???
77286FD2-8040-426B-80AF-82CDA7C89F62 (resized).jpeg2B055128-1768-4598-BFD4-A7677EAC9AA9 (resized).jpeg28765703-5E22-4DEB-9189-313F7DB9068B (resized).jpeg215F8932-7BEC-40A3-B83F-9DF1980A2CB2 (resized).jpeg75600CD1-3004-43DE-9318-B06EA1CEAACE (resized).jpeg9C96090F-CF54-44B1-954E-706AD48AF62E (resized).jpeg338CD01F-A5A3-459C-AA0D-676EB4951D71 (resized).jpegEvery piece of metal is getting the evaporust bath and the tumbler treatment. I dropped the ball on taking “before” pictures.
The rust was pretty horrible. Some parts are coming out fine and others are pretty rough. Some of the pitting is cringe worthy
EBC75527-E0BF-4C95-8877-EB8E2BD360F4 (resized).jpegFC212B79-ABFC-461D-ABC7-E269CD59E94E (resized).jpegC2E1AD57-B38D-4048-A431-53B0C477BC34 (resized).jpeg71D02DF5-D3EB-418C-97E9-212321444FBA (resized).jpeg352AD21A-AE4A-42C7-857C-A5764212E07C (resized).jpegQuoted from CanadianPinball:Is that a custom set of rings you built or one from Titan's database?
I just picked it from referencing the sizes on firepowerpinball.com, ordered a few extras just in case. But I like the all black look, and I have black flippers so I thought Red bands would look sweet
383500E2-5B94-4810-9F97-DEA53A294B86 (resized).jpegQuoted from Daditude:That black/red look is great.
Very "A-Team-ish"
Thanks I cant wait to clear this playfield so I can get everything back together.
Never played or seen a (working) Firepower in person so this is going to be cool to see it start to come together once the weather breaks. COME ON SPRING!!!!!!!!!
I think it’s true patina by definition, not the over glorified patina that pinheads use to describe old dirty machines
Time to start tearing into this mess.
It’s not too hard to take apart when almost every screw head brakes off...
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Not too much to report. Everything I need to do involves sanding and spray painting outside and the temperatures suck still.
I did however make a major push forward with the lockdown bar.
Days of evaporust and grinding rust off with a spinning wire brush in the drill. Pitting is terrible though.
I’ll probably paint it with the 2in1 Filler and Primer a few times then paint the main piece and the sliding bar retainer piece black or red.
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So yesterday I had to rip new rails with a jigsaw because of the odd 1&1/8th width. I went slower than hell and they actually turned out pretty good. I’m going to black lacquer them. Used the Rustoleum lacquer on the smaller rail at the shooter lane as a test. Only did one surface to keep from getting carried away.
Damn this stuff is nice!
5CE84F42-7C17-4249-9E4E-64731743667C (resized).jpeg911FE27C-799D-4145-87BF-0B04DF2E965D (resized).jpegI think after 3 machines I finally learned how to spray paint.
Totally changed my method, I follow more of how auto painting is done. (I think)
In an hour I primed, painted, and cleared my first leg.
Started with the primer obviously, laying 3 very thin even coats 2 minutes apart. I then set my timer for 15 minutes.
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Then did the same process with the black.
After all the coats were applied I waited 15 minutes I applied clear.
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2 light passes, waited 10 minutes, 2 more light passes, waited 10 minutes then 4 light passes to finish with an even wet look and no runs and bam! I’m happy.
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Excuse the ladder and coat hanger assembly.
Quoted from PNBLWZD:Looks great! Years ago I struggled painting aprons and trim trying to find a black spray option that would lay down nicely and look wet smooth and glossy. Then someone here suggested rustolium black lacquer, which I tried and it worked really well with no drama. I’m actually surprised such a good product is still available lol.
I typically would use a gloss for the apron, but because of the sheen of this decal i went satin and it actually matched up perfectly. I used the Rustoleum black lacquer spray on one of the rails to test it out and its amazing. I'll probably finish the rails tonight after work.
I figured I might as well get the lockdown coat of clear on the playfield today.
Built my trusty paint booth in the garage and got the pf leveled.
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Here was my approach:
Laid the first thin coat in vertical passes spacing out in five sweeps back and forth 2 times then set my timer at 10 minutes.
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Did the same process but horizontal sweeps twice laying a second really thin mist. Set timer 10 minutes.
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The third coat was heavier this time I did the same passes but just did it twice both ways. This just about emptied the first can.
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Same process I waited 10 minutes and did the same light mist sweeps but since I was in the heavy stage I did the passes twice.
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And the after waiting my final 10 minutes I did my 5th and final passes almost emptying the can.
And the results look like awful!
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But it’s ok I’m going to let this sit a week and then I have to sand everything level and level inserts. Not sure why the planet reacted like it did.
I have 4 more cans so I’m sure the next application this thing is going to be back on track.
Now before anyone asks, I cleaned the playfield with scented hand soap and a can of pledge. So I’m not sure why it fish eyed on me. 
I wet sanded the whole playfield with 400 grit and wiped it up with 91 % alcohol and then cleaned it all again with naphtha after airbrushing it. 
Quoted from dc2010:Dust in the air, or on the Pf, likely in the air,
Also, naptha is best to use to clean the surface just before clearing, I've also used a spray cleaner with vinegar in it when In a pinch
Yeah naphtha is what I wiped it with. Other than the possibility of dust,I’m wondering if something screwy was going on with the 2nd can. Everything was fine til those last 2 coats with that can. And the first pass with the new can I started from the bottom up. Who knows....
Quoted from mbwalker:Watch the Cary Hardy videos on youtube of his Hook clear coat. He ran into that exact problem (but worse).
Goto the ~1:00 min mark:
Sometimes things just happens. Strange that it’s only the planet though. Everything else looks great. I’ll have to sand it down and try again because I’m not able to just drench the playfield like he did to recover.
Quoted from mbwalker:If I recall correctly, he fills in some spots by hand. Any chance you can do that?
So I’m going to let this set for a week then I’m going to block sand it level. My plan was to get a different “non aerosol” clear to drop into the low parts of the inserts. Depending on how bad this looks after I sand I might need to do that in all of these spots (which sounds horrible).
But like I mentioned. I still have 4 cans to go. If I can’t get this fixed in 4 cans then Outside Edge will get some more of my money for a hardtop.
Quoted from TheCapn:A week is overkill for leveling the PF. You should be able to sand a layer every 24 hours. This will open the pores up and give the clear the ability to cure faster. It's easier to sand while the clear is softer too.
so if i sand tonight, should I clear it again saturday to give the newly exposed clear a chance to cure. I just dont want to rush it and get major wrinkling from being too aggressive. Thats something ive battled in the past that drives me nuts.
Quoted from TheCapn:Now that you have a good base coat. I would sand a layer every 24 hours until you are level. You need to get a 2PAC and an eye dropper for getting those inserts filled. Looks like the clear had to fill the cavity around them. You need these cavities filled before you can apply your next coat. The good news is that you have a base coat. It may look rough, but can easily be fixed. Focus on getting those insert areas level with the rest of the playfield, first.
OK easy enough, I guess the opportunity to misinterpret direction here is what is considered a "layer".
Initially my thought was
1. sand with a block so the sunken areas are easily seen because they'll still be shiny.
2. Individually sand the pits so they have tooth also then let it sit
3. Lay down another can a week later, then begin the eye dropper process to fill in what 2 applications wont cover
4. Then sand truly level so i can apply water slides on the inserts
5. Then final layers of clear
When we say sand a layer every 24 hours, are you suggesting sand a certain number of passes or depth, wait 24 then sand again, wait 24 sand again... until we hit a type of goal?
Quoted from TheCapn:'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.
Thanks man
Quoted from RoyGBev:A true classic. Among Flash, Gorgar, Firepower, and Black Knight, Firepower is to me clearly the best. Love that you're bringing this one back.
btw I have EXACTLY that same Kenmore dryer. It was my mom's. In 40 years all we've done is change a belt. Indestructible.
Yep I changed the belt about 17 years ago. Things is a tank!
Alright, let me start off by saying I’ve truly been dealing with OCD since I can remember and I am very analytical and calculated but remembering the D in OCD is Disorder reminds me why my brain become irrational when I obsess and having addiction issues really makes life fun.
Yesterday I decided to sand the playfield like advised. No problem but instead of walking away and finding another piece to work on I decided to go check out the SprayMax club thread and read up on how people overcome issues. One post in particular shows the same effect I had then 18 hours later the playfield was sanded and coated again with amazing results.
***OCD BRAIN TRIGGERED***
Now prior to 7 months ago I would just have some bourbon as a distraction but I’m now 7 months sober and I’m not going to let a resto push me off the wagon. So I said “Screw this I’m spraying!”
What I learned.
I still hate myself for not being in control of myself
And SprayMax is basically idiot proof. Product is amazing!
I added several more coats to flood the problem area with no sign of wrinkling and then I sprayed the little bit I had left in the cap and dripped it in the grooves around the inserts on the lower half of the playfield. Checked it this morning and WOW!
The pics are in order of progression.
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Quoted from TheCapn:'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.
Sorry I went against your advice, now that I got the playfield in a spot that made me sleep better I’m going to begin the sanding process you advised and drip the low areas of the inserts to get things ready for the water slides.
Quoted from mbwalker:Wow!
Sometimes a little OCD can be a good thing.
Thanks
Lol yeah...
I have about 300 posts on this site that I’ve made saying otherwise, glad I finally got a “win”
Apron is good to go even though I’m not a fan of this decal. I had to exacto the red out and make a lot of adjustments to what was sent and even had to create a triangle decal for the right flipper directions. Come on man, how hard is it to scan an apron and clean up the lines and colors. I never understood these repo companies that miss details like that.
Obviously used beatmaster created cards.
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Quoted from mof:I can't tell how all the insert issues turned out from the final progression photos.
Inserts weren’t really the issue I went into this knowing they would have low spots and circular pits from the edges. I still need to sand and drip clear into about half the inserts and do more sanding.
This is what freaked me out.
Thursday night
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Friday night
54CAB628-9FE3-4010-9358-896790E0F10D (resized).jpegQuoted from Da-Shaker:Looks amazing!
Thanks
Still have a longgggg way to go but little by little it’s getting done.
Sanded the playfield with a block sander while I wait for my 4 to 1 mixing ratio cans of clear and hardener to arrive in the mail.
I’ll drip clear into the sunken areas and into circular voids around the inserts. Problem I’m trying to resolve is how to dam up the clear from just dripping out through the tops of the arrows. maybe build up some epoxy from behind and hope it holds the pool of clear in?
You can pretty much see clean through the top of each arrow and the clear was running through the bottom when I tried the eye drop method with the SprayMax the other day.
image (resized).jpg
I ended up mixing a 2 part epoxy and using a toothpick to smooth a layer around all the inserts where it meets the wood. Felt like I was doing microscopic drywall. Should be good to go now.
Using the same method as the legs I sanded down the side rails.
2 coats of primer.
3 coats of Black.
Then 5 coats of clear.
I screwed up though, didn’t check the weather. It’s going to get down to 32 tonight. Paints probably going to freeze before it’s dry.
At the moment it looks amazing. Wondering if I should bring it into the basement in a few hours. 
97EB579F-A21F-4804-998D-3D86AFA14AEE (resized).jpeg3E423825-5C5B-4E0B-B854-3AAA517524BA (resized).jpegDA38A394-ABDC-4E35-B865-8790DF51E355 (resized).jpegThe carriage bolts were rusted pretty bad and pitted. After the evaporust bath I put them in the drill and ran them over 220 600 1000 grit sand paper then buffed.
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Wanted to see how the rails will look with the new buttons and stainless screws. I’m really liking the contrast. E0D2D4A9-79AA-4729-945E-6B836C536593 (resized).jpeg
Getting there I guess.
Inserts are still leaking like a drain. Need to figure out a plan for waterslides. The type I have look pretty bad on my test piece. They didn’t have a bad reaction or anything they just look terrible.
4C0D724A-26E7-46C5-B2AF-2905B2EF06CA (resized).jpeg955B3316-A5E1-4CA2-8295-669183A35D1E (resized).jpegQuoted from tflick:Where did you get the decal for the apron? I've been hunting this down for a while.
It’s a bad repo but it’s the only one on the planet
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Firepower+
I wet sanded the orange peel effect off of my side rails and applied another layer of clear.
Things were going perfect until about 3 seconds after my last pass and a fucking mosquito landed right in the middle of the rail. I tried my best to plunk it out of the wet paint but it made a mess of things so I did one more pass to flood that area and like always I used too much and it wrinkled the paint. This hobby is stupid and I hate it. Burning this whole thing tonight in my fire pit.
D9B67FD9-5960-4D09-A15E-12D942E03237 (resized).jpegIn other news I have now 6 cans of SprayMax on my playfield.
Finally every imperfection is ABOVE the inserts so now I’ll be able to block sand the drips.
But we all know what will happen. As soon as I start to get it level, all of the low spots where the inserts meet the wood will reveal themselves again and I’ll be back to square one.
Stay tuned to see how I become my own worst enemy and completely ruin a decent project, next on “Matt Sucks at Everything!”
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Quoted from Da-Shaker:Even more of a reason to hate mosquitos, haha
Quoted from tflick:Thanks for the link, great job so far on the restore, looking forward to more pics
Quoted from swillie:I have had clearcoat cause the wrinkled paint effect on model rockets before. I have finally learned to let the color coat dry at least a week before clearing and hasn't happened since. Very frustrating but looks great so keep at it!
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:I really hope this comment was a joke. Your work is amazing to me. This is one of the best threads on Pinside, and your knowledge will help others. Sure, I can certainly understand your frustrations, but you'll get through it.
You're doing great! I wouldn't even attempt something like this.
Chris
Quoted from ReadyPO:Thanks for showing us when things go wrong, best way to learn is from the mistakes. It also makes the feeling at the end when it all looks awesome that much better! Looking forward to further progress!
Quoted from gdonovan:Keep trucking brother! Will be awesome when done and you will have a tale to tell.
Thanks for the motivation guys, after i get out of my pouting crybaby mode I'll get my brain into recovery mode for that rail. I'll probably use the Rustoleum 2in1 primer and filler to fix the wrinkle. I sanded the wrinkle down and it removed a lot of chunks of paint. It looks pretty terrible.
I sanded the playfield level and the inserts actually turned out pretty good. So thats a load off...
I got my waterslide decals printed today and I sanded just the inserts up to 3000 grit then polished with Ultimate Compound.
Laid down 1 waterslide on the FIRE insert to test it out (go big or go home) then decided to lay another waterslide down on that one to double up the text.
Damn, it looks good!
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1 waterslide AC68992C-1134-425A-BDE6-4C3FABEDAA52 (resized).jpeg2 waterslides 6FA271DA-BDF8-462F-A263-535FEB2C6C36 (resized).jpeg
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Quoted from setzkor:Looking good!
On the decals, if you have access to the printer, it may be easier to just run them through twice to get the right darkness for the letters. I think I did screw one up with poor alignment, but the printer did get the second aligned without a ghost image on the letters. That might be easier than aligning multiple decals by hand. You can always try first with a regular piece of paper to see how consistent the printer feeds.
i had to go to Staples to get them printed so I couldnt get the double run. I should be ok with the alignment as I layer them. We'll see how it goes.
Quoted from setzkor:Looking good!
On the decals, if you have access to the printer, it may be easier to just run them through twice to get the right darkness for the letters. I think I did screw one up with poor alignment, but the printer did get the second aligned without a ghost image on the letters. That might be easier than aligning multiple decals by hand. You can always try first with a regular piece of paper to see how consistent the printer feeds.
I’m so glad you resized the outline on these decals man. They all fit dead on and cover all the places I was worried about. Makes the transition from insert to playfield seamless
Ehhh it’s good enough for decals.
I should’ve sanded it down to wood and skimmed it with bondo but the filler/primer “looked” like it had a perfect surface. Can’t be for sure until it’s glossy though.
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As soon as the temps are back in the 60s I’ll clear the playfield
In the meantime I’m doing a few things to get the backbox finished.
Decided to lacquer the transformer and make a new label for it.
The screws had some paper wrapping that I just replaced with electrical tape.
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Old 2F6A520C-21E0-4F50-8F3F-60D09258EB04 (resized).jpeg
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Quoted from ChipScott:Playfield looks great!
Thanks can’t wait to clear over the decals and get it finished. It’s been a battle, if anyone has been following me crying like a baby in the SprayMax club thread you’d see my gripes about sanding and decals. But it’s ready to go.
Quoted from Manny65:Nicely spotted - if you rotate it, it'd be "5x" and then look odd compare to the others. I guess very few would spot the 5 being upside down once on the machine, however once you know it's there you can't un-see it.
All the 5s match except the one on the orange arrow. Wonder why they did that when making the art.
I laid the backbox on its side to install new footers and decided it’s time lay the decals.
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I missed a photo op for my method but I lined up the decal and clamped it down at the top and in the middle on the side of the opening. Then I peeled the backing off the bottom and folded it under to adhere the bottom 6 inches or so.
Then I use my fingers and a microfiber towel to slide back and forth as I gradually pull back on the backing.
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The decals are great!
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Installed the backbox metal cut out the lock hole and I polished up the carriage bolts too. Looks pretty snazzy.
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Time to put the guts back in the back box.
First I needed to desolder the connectors from the old rectifiers. Not sure if this was a hack or if this crap was done in the factory but what a pain.
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The new rectifiers are smaller than the original that’s for sure. I hope I have the orientation right with these...
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Got the boards installed and spent more time than I care to share trying to figure out where all the wires were supposed to go.
Also made new labels. Seemed odd putting labels back in for a board that’s not in use but oh well.
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I really hope everything is where it’s supposed to be and actually works...
Doesn’t look to bad compared to what I started out with.
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I got a back glass to replace the nightmare this game originally had. Thanks to Deez he gave me one from his current game because he lucked out and got a really nice repo. So my new glass had just minor blemishes. Few scratches here and there. The green, yellow, black, and red were able to be touched up either by hand or airbrush. But I noticed the blue was just flaking away if you looked at it funny.
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I tried to paint where I could but just having the brush touch the blue paint would cause it to dust off so I sealed it using the tape method Steve from BGResto makes you do before you mail him a glass.
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Then I painted the blue areas the best I could over the tape.
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I think it turned out ok and in 30 years when the tape starts to yellow you guys can yell at me.
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Quoted from Schwaggs:Please don't hope you have the bridges wired up correctly, please verify. You can do lots of damage if they are wired incorrectly (blowing the big blue cap, boards, etc).
On the new bridge rectifiyers, the single lug that is turned differently than the others is the positive lead, the lug diagonally from the postitive lug is the negative. The other 2 lugs go to the transformer.
I’m pretty sure it’s correct. If you look at the pic of the new one it shows the + and the AC and I pulled one leg and moved it to the new at a time.
I actually started with the + then went opposite then left then right.
I’m 86% confident haha
I also used this as a reference but considering there aren’t any green wires on these rectifiers I’m left to assume they meant red.
You know, the completely opposite color on the color wheel... 
77B76B3B-77F5-4737-9CB9-B78A3E9AB8F5 (resized).pngQuoted from gdonovan:Now would be the time to fuse those bridges per Williams recommendation.
Not sure what you mean. Is it still necessary with all new boards?
Quoted from gdonovan:This is also a quick and easy update if you have not purchased new bridges yet.
Post 197 198 and 201 are about the new rectifiers i installed.
I guess ill look at getting a fuse holder and putting it between the transformer and the rectifier.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:If you're not happy with your touchups, you can give theater gels a try. Just cut and tape a small piece where you need and see how it looks. Cheap and translucent. You can also get some frosted film to go behind that to give a more original look. Never gonna be perfect, but I've always had terrible luck trying to get brushed on paint to look good lit up.
ebay.com link
Those are sweet, just bought the 20 piece set!
Thanks
Ace Hardware had some flex tubing and a volume knob for the potentiometer.
I’m super excited that too-many-pins was able to get me a mounting bracket for that part.
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I needed to remake the tilt/sound panel so I used some birch ply I had left over from my flipperless rebuild when I restored my Bally Rocket.
I needed to get everything in place before I cut it down and paint it.
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Quoted from Da-Shaker:Nice!. This game has great sounds. Have you mentioned what kind of speaker system you'll be using? I played a FP at the Lodi CA event and it had two tall speakers on both sidea of the machine. It sounded awesome. There was a sign that asked, is this machine for sale and his written response was " Are you High? ". That was the nicest FP I've ever played. Such a fun pin.
I havent really given the sound system much thought other than just getting it to work. I bought a new speaker for it, and replaced all the caps on the board so its getting SOME attention, outside of that I'm probably not going to do much more. I'll just be happy if this thing actually makes the right noises with the shape the sound board is in.
DIODES!!!
Too many of them....
So far all the coils are done. Now I’ve moved on to the switches.
Using the matrixes and the schematics as a checklist. Going to be a lot of little check marks when I’m done.
To be honest, this sucks. By time I get through the switches I’m probably not going to have the motivation to do the lights.
7FFAB9B5-40BD-4394-894D-F7FA71280263 (resized).jpegCCDF2C87-36C0-46FE-A6C0-ABFF0FD5879A (resized).jpegQuoted from misterhare:You crazy! I have no appetite for this attention to detail.
Just trying to make it solid.
When it’s time to boot this thing up I figure if anything happens electronically I can rule out diodes, resistors, and caps under the playfield. Also, from everything I’ve read these are the culprits for frying new boards so trying to help there. ANDDDDD I want to limit lifting the playfield as much as possible to hopefully help keep down on unnecessary twisting, bending, or stress on the clear coat to avoid ghosting. I have absolutely no faith in clear coat after doing my Mata Hari and all the ghosting that happened, so I’m way too precautious now.
Plus we’re all in isolation anyway. Might as well be productive. So I’m shotgunning everything.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Where did you get the cabinet and head decals?
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-cabinet-decals/
I’m really happy with them, can’t wait to finish the cab.
Quoted from Gorgar666:[quoted image]
I thought about going this route. I’m told that the red bull can of a cap going bad is like 1 in a million though.
Quoted from ss-pinball:I'm getting serious about doing my Blackout (putting in a little bit of time every day now) and have wondered about the best, easiest to understand, most effective way to address the bridge rectifier issue early Williams pins.. there's this Inkochnito one in the pic, there's a less elaborate one in marketplace for $18 and then there's going to the auto parts store and for about $4 getting the in-line-can't-see-it kind of fuse holder.
Quoted from gdonovan:I used these from PBR, I keep them on hand for early Bally pins.[quoted image]
As soon as the rest of my stuff ships I'll give you an update of what I got going on in the way of the Cap/Rectifier/Fuses in the back box. I'll hoping to get it situated tomorrow.
So I was fixated so much on a digikey order with coindoor button caps that I didn’t realize I got 3 other packages today. And one of them had these fuse holders I ordered, not expecting them to be this bulky.
Oh well I made them work and even created labels.
There’s where I landed with the rectifiers and fuses after your guys’ feedback.
055DBF35-E00E-4F9C-8F9F-788D8E8C2268 (resized).jpegI laid 2 cans of SprayMax on the playfield and it didn’t bury the waterslides like I thought it would.
Not sure if this will sand level and still have clear on the waterslide afterward or if I need more clear
I’m not sure how others clear their playfields using like 2 or 3 cans. I’m 8 cans in and it still looks like it needs more.
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So after drying it seems to have leveled a little but all the areas with decals are definitely raised so the clear will need sanded down.
I’m really hoping this bump on the top of the 6 Arrow is just a piece of dust that landed perfectly on the edge of the decal and not the tip of the actual decal. I cant tell. I was watching every insert like a hawk as I laid layer after layer and didn’t see any curling or lifting so who knows.
I'll sand it and add a few more coats.
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Quoted from Schwaggs:That looks really good, don't give up now! One more round of sanding and another coat of clear or keep sanding with higher grit paper and polish the shine back.
Im going to wet sand with 1500 tomorrow. If the clear coat levels then I’ll just step up to 3000 and then polish.
If I can’t get it to level and start sanding into the decals then I’m going to need more cans.
I just can’t believe laying down 2 cans didn’t bury these enough to be level.
Painted a few parts.
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I guess that’s a somewhat better looking tilt/sound panel
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Quoted from Da-Shaker:I like the red background
Thanks!
I’m not a fan of yellow so there will be a lot of emphasis on the black and red.
Quoted from misterhare:Isn't "install 3 balls" what the Lord said when he created you?
You’re done, go wait in the car!
Quoted from Gorgar666:Where you get the decals?!
Im going to make a spaceship decal so I'll capture the process I use and post it
First I make my image or use something already made like the pinball rebel stuff.
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Print it out on regular paper, photo paper, or card stock depending on what it is.
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Do a rough cut out.
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I use this product for the backing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XZ5VUQK
I peel one side of the adhesive sheet and stick my paper to it. If it’s going to be touched a lot by a ball or people I’ll cover it in mylar.
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Then I cut it out with a close eye and steady hand.
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This particular one I’m thinking for the top target.
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Not sure if I like it. You guys can decide if it works or not.
I sanded away the dust particles with 2000 and 3000 and started to polish with the compound.
Edit: After really looking at this playfield and feeling the inserts Im sure the edge you see is a illusion from under the surface, there is no bump but looks like a sharp edge from the waterslide decal
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Quoted from Billy16:live with it, polish the hell out of it and move on.
So this is basically where I’m at with it. I used Ultimate Compound on it last night. Did it again on lunch. And just spent the last hour polishing it with Meguiars Ultimate Polish and putting the rails on it.
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Now I’ll tuck it away for the rest of the time to finish the cab and the wire harness.
image (resized).jpg
I like CPRs version of the out lane plastics but they don’t have enough red for me so I took a stab at making my own version but as a decal. I think they look pretty sweet.
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Quoted from Ricochet:Fantastic job. I like how you are actually restoring this and not just replacing everything (I'm guilty of replacement... because its easy).
Thanks
I’m cheating with the cab decals, I typically use stencils but I like this art better than the original
The next one I’ll probably just replace hahaha less stress.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Very nice
Quoted from Pinoffski:You have came a long way with this , some up’s and downs but that is just pinball.
I would be happy with how it has turned out so far..
Sometimes it is good to look back at the start as you have accomplished so much ...
Quoted from RGarriott:Looking good.
Quoted from Gorgar666:I like it.
Thanks guys!
As a kid my favorite book was Ender’s Game and I always think of the book when I look at this game because of the ship on the cover. I know the book was published in 85 but the artwork for this book looks older, very 70s. But there’s definitely some visual influence here.
I bring it up because I want to do some more art with the ship but it’s hard to find more art work of it.
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There are a few more pics from John Harris his art work from Enders Game goes back a few decades before the 80s
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Also Angus Mckie
Been focused on the playfield lately and got away from the diode replacement on the switches. I was kind of going up the harness as I felt but decided to hold myself true to using the matrix as a checklist. Got 2 columns done amongst the random ones. Going to do a column a day until I finish. Then it’ll be time to finish the cab.
Question for anyone following: If a diode is bad on the light sockets what does that do to the board?
5D9CD3DB-F181-4D2D-97D1-8C5FA653B28E (resized).jpegI also decided to populate what I could of the top side even though I told myself to leave it sit for 2 months 
F9FC3E3D-5878-48F8-A440-19B099594899 (resized).jpeg1BCE0A4B-7CEE-4E51-9A91-0A0BE120B351 (resized).jpegEFFB6953-64C0-4A77-A9F3-9E8309F4E2BC (resized).jpegFCA747A9-9ED6-4290-97EC-42D19ACDFE4C (resized).jpegA65948A7-F0D3-4201-A41D-C9F5738EEE72 (resized).jpegE711C0CA-376F-4792-952D-BB55C5767490 (resized).jpeg49CB4C72-7637-463E-9FFD-8B5D8F9BFD86 (resized).jpeg0439F560-5924-49AB-B2D5-6122314DFD4F (resized).jpeg68320ECE-8EF8-4DEE-A2CE-B220FE552CF2 (resized).jpegQuoted from Schwaggs:The lamp will either never light (diode failed open) or stay lit all the time and potentially cause other to ghost or light (diode failed closed)
Perfect, thanks!
Quoted from ss-pinball:That is looking GREAT with the black rubbers (makes be VERY happy that I bought the black rubber kit for my Blackout).
Thanks for a second I was worried I was using too much black. I don’t know if there is such thing.
Why is it that every single thing I try to do is a pain?....
Tried to paint the cabinet. Nope too humid and all the paint dried with this hazy white/grey cloud through out.
1FFA2390-346E-442F-997A-0E03741A87CE (resized).jpeg20D4E8FB-8CA0-49E4-B76B-5518C78ED28B (resized).jpeg618CC97A-FE12-4172-BFC0-8E293332C28C (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin-Pilot:I am super lucky here in Phoenix is almost always good painting weather. Humidity is almost non-existent except during the summer Monsoon season.
I used to live in Mesa I miss the dry heat. If the company I work for buys territory in the Southwest I’ll be the first to relocate.
Quoted from Billy16:Surely at least one semi-major step will go smoothly!
Thanks man, just gotta watch the weather closer. So close to being finished. Just need to get this cab painted and then I’ll be able to start putting things back together.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Whoa, that is so cool. I thought you painted on bricks. Looks so real. How did you do that?
Quoted from gdonovan:If I recall, Williams built some like that. They got a deal on some paneling or there was a shortage and they had to get what they could.
Yeah this example had the brick wall old school kitchen paneling haha
Quoted from setzkor:Now get the gray paint out for the mortar between those bricks! In for a penny, in for a pound.
The sad thing is now that you said it I’m contemplating it.
Quoted from setzkor:I have a feeling I know what the next image will be ...
It would be the snazziest Firepower bottom around!
Hahaha I’m not doing it. It’s taking every thing I have to just finish painting the inside of this cab. My next restoration I’m just paying someone to sand and paint. I’m over it.
Time for the decals
Needed to get the front trimmed and then sharpie the edge so the white edge from the cut is covered.
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Once the decals fit how I like time to lay it down.
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I love these decals.
Once you get the edge lined up it’s so easy to apply them.
I just wipe back and forth as I pull the backing slowly until I get to the end.
No need for water and squeegees.
CD11D7B7-F589-4A42-9EBE-68A66AA59415 (resized).jpegF2535F05-5D1B-4C17-A75C-A1DDFC919118 (resized).jpeg94BB0D05-6235-4B06-9EC0-3EDE19566A4C (resized).jpegSpent the majority of the day putting the cab back together. My wife suggested that I leave the lockdown bar stainless. After seeing it I’m going forward with painting it black.
Starting to get excited about this game.
9A266A61-4A67-4D71-AB14-45EA863EB56E (resized).jpeg6C104580-7A9F-422D-8713-B7FBF64072B5 (resized).jpegA708D876-F049-488C-98FE-57F887E611EB (resized).jpeg6B16DE8E-A592-4940-AA23-C7E2743D4FDF (resized).jpegF8FF361E-389F-48E5-8EF5-1EBA149A2EEF (resized).jpegA3D161A8-8A69-4376-99AA-B03360DDFD45 (resized).jpeg4F80510F-54BA-4928-898F-0A1406C9C100 (resized).jpeg58FC3959-6ECD-407B-8EE6-C58F97E37F4D (resized).jpeg4C804FCF-247F-4BB4-9677-79A7DBB6F7BF (resized).jpeg1BB137F0-6CBC-4B96-9524-6A1D17D35BFF (resized).jpegBC24AB43-7EC7-42D8-A55B-20F621B3D890 (resized).jpeg4AD7BC3E-D766-427E-82A3-8249B756C9DF (resized).jpeg17F27307-97C8-4820-8C8A-591FFF47FFFF (resized).jpegEA4E0AA2-017B-490D-84DC-A0F39015BE22 (resized).jpeg5A614BAA-3F12-4D1A-8458-02F3D81B9AE7 (resized).jpeg25846BFE-4624-4802-8D35-D4A93190678D (resized).jpegC0577FEA-C93C-47F9-ACFC-0CCBBE96EDD1 (resized).jpegCBDD3DED-B594-4425-B8E4-8FFC689A8819 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Dude! That is looking great! You did a fantastic job on that Firepower. #bringingitbackfromdead
Quoted from Manny65:Looks awesome, luv the red & black inside the cabinet - what a great project and resto.
Thanks guys, still a little ways to go. Still need to finish the playfield wire harness and start testing everything. More to come!
Quoted from hepgeek:Love the attention to detail. The red wire and ring terminals as ground jumpers are brilliant. I’m totally gonna rip off some of your ideas when I pimp my FP & Blackout.
Thanks, making that ground wire was fun. Took a lot longer than anticipated but it turned out nice and every piece metal is grounded properly now.
I still have one more wire to run though. Need to run a black wire over from the tilt panel to ground the speaker then it’ll be complete.
Edit: Added the speaker ground
ABC56389-608F-49B7-8C94-37C98E825118 (resized).jpegQuoted from TheCapn:Dude, did you cut away the decal that is under the cabinet protector? You better or you will get decal wrinkling over time of nudging or moving it.
Oh man good call. I’ll cut them away soon thanks for the insight
Got a replacement capacitor from GPE. 2 reasons:
1. It’s black
2. It’ll piss off vid1900 enough that he'll log back in just to tell me there’s no reason to replace these because they’ll last for 100 years.
1A934B9A-8AE3-4302-8F5A-6270EF1568E8 (resized).jpeg43A66F9B-CCC6-4F16-A9C0-F3DBCEC34579 (resized).jpegQuoted from mof:Now you just gotta swap coin doors with a Sorcerer. Black for Steel.
I bought a steel coin door for my Sorcerer to swap it, but then never moved forward on it.
-mof
I keep going back and forth in my mind about the steel and black, at the moment I'm liking the contrast, accents the leg bolts, shooter housing and footers. Who knows, its not set in stone so i might change it up as time goes on.
Quoted from Manny65:The lockdown bar looks great! I like contrast as well, but that's not to say that changing things up won't look better - you just gotta look at what you've done to prove that. Really enjoying this thread, thanks for sharing your journey
Thanks for following, I’m excited to get back to work on the playfield wire harness. I have 3 more columns of diodes to go on the switch matrix then I can start putting things back on the underside of the playfield.
Quoted from Billy16:Lockdown bars are relatively cheap, I'd just get another one and swap them out on occasion. Will make your wife happy that you gave some thought to her idea.
Sounds like a man that’s been married a while sharing some marital wisdom
Quoted from mof:How about a chrome/red LED start button?
-mof
(I tried finding a URL for the one I used...)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-gorgar-mof-20150301/page/4#post-2560764
You’re on to me.
I’m actually going to get the same kind of transparent red as the flipper buttons for the start.
And I’ll illuminate the start button by running wire back to the “Game Over” lights that blink in the back box. So the start button will blink in attract mode.
Saw this on YouTube a while ago.
Got the light installed for the credit button. Ran wire from the backbox by screwing lugs on to the ground braid for easy removal. Ran the wires under the playfield supports.
It blinks with the game over lights. 
New credit button should be here Tuesday.
AA58E46A-B2A7-47E1-ABA6-BA893D3DF68A (resized).jpegE3E7ADF7-6C3A-470B-8D49-D9F597685CA5 (resized).jpegD474AEF3-E492-4910-9679-2181923BCFA4 (resized).jpegA6F2DACB-E1CB-4EEF-9D32-6202FE0ECC06 (resized).jpeg0B66A943-3667-45E2-BD13-C96FF8DA08E1 (resized).jpeg86970903-7287-46F1-90FA-62E3BB59BF40 (resized).jpegQuoted from Gorgar666:Where’s the Coin Tray? That’s gotta be chrome!
I don’t have one yet. This now makes 2 Williams games that I need coin boxes for.
But I agree I think a nice shiny steel one would look great.
So I’ve been having a sound issue.
In the solenoid test I was getting no sound at all. I changed out all the caps and got ROMs but no sound.
Then I realized that the main sound board was missing a processor so I got a new 6802.
Now the noises work but no speech.
So after a ton digging through schematics, board layouts on firepowerpinball.com and looking up chips that might need replaced... I noticed my IC1 on the speech module only has 14 legs but the layouts referenced 16 legs.
That IC1 is a 55536 my board takes a 55516. This damn speech module is from a Space Shuttle and my main board is from a Blackout
I’m guessing the Blackout board is fine in my FP but I need to get the appropriate Speech module
Quoted from Schwaggs:Did you try adjusting the sound-speech balance pot while the tests were running?
Did you put new ROM sockets in the speech board? Those can be just as flakey as the CPU sockets.
I'm not 100% positive but I think those boards are interchangeable. BK uses the 14pin chip too.
The balance pot just lowers the existing noises. When the voices are up to bat the sound is completely dead. The sockets aren’t new. My thought is if one of the sockets or ROMs were flaky the other 2 would still respond. Initially after all my testing I was about to replace IC3 on the speech board. But I might just buy a new board so I don’t have to worry about it.
Quoted from hepgeek:Are you using rattle can primer / paint on this game, or one of the fancy HVLP getups?
Everything I do is rattle can, mostly Rustoleum or Ace Hardware products. Except the playfield was SprayMax 2k.
Quoted from Schwaggs:You should be able to detect pulsing on the output of speech board IC1 using a logic probe when speech is playing (easy to find on the + side of C1)
There are 1 or 2 electrolytic caps in the audio path on the speech board. C1 1uf which is usually a tantalum cap (they aren't effected by age and doesn't automatically need to be replaced) and C12 10uf that you should replace (if you haven't already) before trying IC3.
I replaced all the caps on the main sound board. Are you referring to the caps on the Speech Module?
Edit: Never mind I reread the instructions and saw you said speech board
I'll try that as well
The only problem plastic I have is the top left arch. The art flaked off behind the aliens face.
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I have these colored lens films I got to help with the Backglass
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So I cut out an area to go behind the red and used the double sided adhesive I use on all the decals I make to apply.
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Not the perfect “solve all” but looks a lot better.
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Quoted from pinhead_jack:I wonder if you layered the red a couple of times if it would help mute the spots further? You could add paint but I am not sure if that would just darken the spots too much?
I’m sure a few more layers would help with the light. I think no matter what I do it’s going to still stand out so I’ll accept that this will be ok enough until I find a replacement arch on eBay or something.
I know I could just get a new CPR set but these originals are in great shape minus this one piece.
Quoted from Billc479:Why not put a red condom under the piece?
Cause I’d rather raw dog it
Quoted from mrm_4:I cant read what you posted mcpin54
Actually now that im on a computer instead of a phone I can see it. Im going to PM you about something.
Ok pushing myself a little further. I got a logic probe and have no clue what I’m doing.
So an update:
I replaced Caps C1, C4, and C12
I replaced Resistors R12 and R13
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I have the logic probe on IC3 leg 1 and IC2 leg 7 and both stay on Low the whole time the sound cycles.
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I put the probe on the 6821 pin 39 and during the part I should hear speech I get both Hi and Low
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What am I even doing here???
Quoted from Schwaggs:I can't find a schematic of that voice board anywhere.
Can you tell me what numbers are on the two 8 pin chips on the voice board?
I have replacement chips ready to go. I was going to shot gun them but I want to actually learn to use a probe. Here are a bunch of pics that I hope help:
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Quoted from Schwaggs:Thanks, that helps!
You are going to use the logic probe to track the voice signal as it leave the digital to analog converter (IC1) is filtered (IC3) and is mixed with the sound card sounds (1/2 of IC2).
Start the sound test and wait for the part where there should be voice.
Set your logic probe set to TTL (this setting is for most troubleshooting). When you get to measuring the op amps, sometimes the CMOS setting is better at detecting pulsing so try both settings on the logic probe.
Probe pin 3 of IC1 - analog out - you should see pulsing from this pin when the system is playing voice. It should NOT be pulsing when voice is not being played.
If you get pulsing here, you know the digital part of the voice function is working (ROMS, DAC, etc). If no pulsing is here, you should make sure you have activity at pins 9 and 12 of IC1 (clock and data). Both of these should be pulsing when voice is being played.
Assuming you have pulsing at pin 3, move on down the audio path, probing points along the path. Probe pin 2 of IC3 - this is IC3 op amp A's input.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp A at pin 1.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the Input of IC3 op amp B at pin 6.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp B at pin 7.
Im not sure I would call it pulsing (more like just changes to both HI/LO at the same time) but I get some weird activity on IC1 pins 3, 9 , and 12 during the part where there should be voice
on IC3 all the pins just read LOW except pin 8 reads HI, no activity at all through the sound cycle.
Quoted from Schwaggs:There are 3 posible states the logic probe will read. Hi (with a high tone), Low (with a lower tone) and pusling with a "geiger counter" sound.
To test what each state sounds like, try the pins on one of the ROM chips. You can run this test with anything playing on the sound card (not just voice).
Pin 12 is steady low
Pin 24 is steady hi
Pins 7 and 8 are pulsing - the logic probe will sound differnet based on the type of plusing waveform and frequency of the signal. All you are looking for is a different tone than hi or low plus the yellow pulsing light is lit.
When voice is not playing is pin 3 steady high or low?
IC3 pin 1 shows no pulsing at all? If so, I would replace IC3 next
IC3 pin 1 is just a steady low during the whole cycle, the others that should be pulsing on IC1 are behaving like the other chips on pins 7 and 8
going to pull IC3 and give it a shot with a new chip
Got an awesome surprise in the mail today from McPin54
Can’t wait to frame this baby next to the machine when it’s finished!
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And a bonus!
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Quoted from Schwaggs:Awesome, congrats on the fix! I'm happy to have played a tiny part in the restoration!
Big part man, that voice is heard every game!
2 weeks later
Quoted from matiou:nice work! how much time between pic 1 and pic 2 ?
About 30 seconds, haha I finished the GI sockets and just tossed the wire harness on it, im in the middle of putting everything in its place and resoldering things back together. Have a lot of personal things going on outside of the hobby that are eating away my time after work so this baby has been on the back burner.
I'll be chiseling away an hour here and an hour there until its done.
Well tragedy strikes the playfield.
While installing the flipper coil mechs I didn’t notice that the pin in the back of the playfield for adjusting flipper height had come out of the playfield.
So as I began to screw in the plate it was lift up by maybe 1/16th an inch and as I tightened the screw it pushed the pin in and raised the clear on the other side causing it to ghost. Maybe the plate was never screwed all the way down to begin with. Who knows but now I have this issue that I can’t unsee. And the flipper doesn’t hide it. It’s too large of a ghost...
Now what do I do?
I guess since it is not over an insert I could exacto the edge of the ghosted area and then eye drop clear in that area then sand it level and polish out. Might be a risky repair but the idea of this playfield having ghosting after everything makes me nauseous.
761B86E2-CDE8-4942-9152-866D61B1ABF4 (resized).jpeg73E185D6-AFFB-471C-A5F7-9336654FC9C7 (resized).jpegAE10B5FE-2519-403A-934E-8BF0904F9208 (resized).jpegSo I finished installing all mechs, wire harness and soldered everything place.
Put the playfield in and every thing worked perfectly! 
Did all the tests for solenoids and switches made a few adjustments and dropped 3 balls in.
Pushed the start button and pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop
The ball eject keeps firing but the ball wont lift to the shooter lane so instead of it popping up into the lane the solenoid kept firing and slamming the ball into the side of the trough and chipped the hell out of the clear.
I quit pinball 
DF18FC97-2592-43F4-98AF-D677268FBD2E (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Cannot really see that area anyway.
Just need a little adjustment on the eject solenoid and it will be good.
Does cliffy make a protector for that area?
I need to look for a cliffy but I don’t understand what to adjust. There really isn’t anything to move
It’s because the ball wont get over the hump. Just keeps trying. Until I use a magnet and get it out. All the electrical components are working properly just mechanically it won’t knock the ball up into the shooter lane.
Couple things to address:
The ghosting clear from the flipper mech pressing the pin up might just stay as is. I could just exacto the piece out and drip clear in the void, sand level, polish out and it’ll be fine. It’s just getting motivated to do it.
I’m hoping there’s a cliffy available for the shooter lane to help hide that huge chip coming out of the trough. That whole ordeal sucks. However after twisting the spring a few times to tighten it and also bending the arm of the mech more centered on the ball, the eject is now kicking the ball into play!
Now that I’m finished with the cosmetic journey of the restoration I see why so many people love this game!
931F6DF2-1E76-43A0-89A9-F0FD64B0FD09 (resized).jpeg1D4A7143-FD97-4113-9E4A-BE73F8FA8334 (resized).jpeg7A04BCD0-C3CC-433B-B7DF-A557BB8A3C8D (resized).jpeg1951AA86-142B-4A26-BA8A-465254E5D957 (resized).jpeg8D968DD3-634E-455D-B71E-50461C24E1DD (resized).jpegBBA84808-7B0E-4CBB-A152-FA28444F45A8 (resized).jpegC42AF29F-AE42-4279-8A02-DFAA0280C5CE (resized).jpeg56413F6A-5E91-4C08-A6E3-0AC2F38E2472 (resized).jpegFDE67CD8-C79C-430A-A3DD-4CA5A0A58544 (resized).jpeg577E1511-E76A-4771-AC6F-A36F69B5F7FA (resized).jpeg8F4C3A6F-04D9-4E0A-B6B6-CBAC27F425BF (resized).jpeg76C4FD6A-5B68-4240-9587-5DD09E680ECA (resized).jpeg17FFD85B-ECEA-4CF8-8FA6-C0687C774BF4 (resized).jpegC1FEF775-D857-4D0D-B467-4483AFE946BD (resized).jpeg61AE53AE-5A72-44D7-9EB6-17D022B94AA6 (resized).jpegDFA4F59D-0B70-4558-AB6E-3113F9E1D5BE (resized).jpegQuoted from Schwaggs:WOW! That looks incredible! Congratulations on pulling it all together!
Love the lit scoops with the sticker on the deflector! What a cool touch!
You never talked about re-installing the roll-over switch with the clear in the grooves. Was that a PITA?
Thanks!
With the rollovers I put the old plastic stars in upside down while I would clear coat and then take them out before the clear flashed. I only had to scrape one side of the red teeth on the left rollover because it was slightly rubbing. Made it really easy.
Quoted from Ceckitti:What does the trough eject do without a ball in place? Does it fully pulse the coil and arm? Just wondering if maybe the shaft seized up in the coil?
The coils fully pulsing. I thought I had it dialed in but now it takes like 4 or 5 tries before the momentum of the 2 balls behind it to help push it over the hump.
Also all my displays are dropping like flies so I guess it’s time for a Wolffpac kit.
Might as well do Red Digits.
Quoted from mof:Looking good!
And ... I'm seeing "dark spots." It's not your fault.
Firepower is one of those early Williams games where they did not brighten up all the plastics properly at all...
I added 5 or 6 bulbs to mine. Some sockets were topside, others were bottom side with long comet-flex bulbs.
Look around with the room lights out, and just Firepower on -- and you'll notice about 5 dark plastic spots that don't balance out on either side.
It's a fun and rewarding problem to solve to make it better than factory!
If you'd like I can draw a map for ya of the dark spots, but it's more fun if you discover it yourself!
-mof
I think I see what you mean but I’d be interested in a drawing for sure! I might add lighting who knows.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Did I miss your fix for this very small oops?
NO its still there mocking me lol
After I get a cliffy for the ball trough Im going to determine if i need to fix that piece of clear too depending on coverage. If the ball trough looks good with the cliffy then I'll eventually fix the piece by the flippers by cutting out a circle and then dripping clear and leveling, otherwise I'll need to pull the playfield and make a big thing out of it to fix both spots.
In the meantime I need to address the displays. So I'll be building a Wolffpac kit soon.
ALSO, the sound on this game is extremely quiet, I bought a new speaker for it, I'm wondering if its the wrong kind or if I need to replace something on the board, but Id like to get some volume for this game.
Quoted from Cliffy:I make a shooter eject for FP. And for the kickouts.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Ha! That was me you invoiced earlier today 
Just paid up!
But I bought a normal and a wide to see what would work better of the 2. Not sure if there’s much of a difference between the Firepower specific shooter lane versus the 3/8”. If you could swap the Firepower specific instead of sending the normal that’d be awesome. I didn’t see the Firepower one on the site.
Quoted from matiou:Stupid question... but does the volume changes when you adjust the potentiometer inside the cabinet ?
And by the way, Firepower sounds awesome on a psw10 subwoofer
Yes but it doesn’t get loud at all. Pretty sure the speaker is too weak. It’s only 5watt. I just bought an 8 ohm 100 watt. That should help me out.
Quoted from gdonovan:Odd as my Blackout can get really loud and obnoxious.
Yeah every video i watch with Firepower has loud sound, this thing is a little lower than a normal talking voice. The volume pot goes from 0-5k on the DMM when i test it. I replaced all caps on the board. Not sure why its so quiet. Anything else board related to volume I need to consider?
Quoted from slochar:That's not how speakers work. It's the wattage of the amplifier that matters - sometimes putting really high wattage speakers on a lower wattage amp doesn't get the results you want.
Try jumping out the 2 wires on the volume adjustment pot momentarily (this will put the volume at its max, as if you turned the volume all the way up) - if it's now loud (it should be really loud), your pot is bad. If it stays the same, likely you have a sound board issue, possibly the amp. Does it sound scratchy at all? Voltages check out?
Sound is clear, just low. Pot is all the way up and will lower the volume to mute if i dial it back.
I jumped the pot with no difference in volume.
I checked all the test points several times on the main sound board when i was having issues with the speech module and everything tests out. Maybe its the amp like youre saying. I'm really hoping its this cheap speaker i found for like $6 on ebay. I have nothing to compare it too though because the original speaker's cone was completely torn all the way around.
After digging through tons of threads I bought the speaker referenced here based on another pinsider using them.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/speaker-replacement-for-my-gorgar#post-752645
Quoted from Biffbar:Whichever way you go, in the end you will have a really good game to play.
Dude you weren’t kidding this game is amazing. I’m in love, especially as I get all the switches adjusted and the game starts playing without any misses or run away scoring I’m getting more and more hooked.
Ripping that spinner right into the last ball lock for multi is the best feeling.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Only thing I can think of is re-flow or better yet replace all the header pins on the sound board (cold solder joint causing bad connection to speaker or volume control). Re-seat the ribbon between the sound and voice boards. Rotate the balance pot on the voice card from end to end and back to the middle to clean the wiper.
I can't remember but did you replace the 10uf electrolytic cap on the voice board and all the electrolytic caps on the sound board (even the 1uf caps)?
So a little bit of progress, I pushed the sound test button and rolled the balance pot to all voice and the volume was the same. But when I rolled it all the way to the sounds and no voice the game is loud as hell. So balancing out the sounds and voice is killing the volume. Why would the voice side be so quiet in comparison?
Quoted from Schwaggs:Ah yes, I remember now, thanks for the reminder (too many threads).
I see you used a tantalum cap for C12. Do you happen to have a 10uf electrolitic you can try there. The circuit calls for a low leak electrolytic there, not sure it using a tantalum would cause this problem (that is in the audio path from the voice generator to the mixer).
I'd try the cap before suspecting the pot.
Crap!
No nothing on hand. I think the problem I was having initially is I couldn’t find an electrolytic cap that was 10uf and 20 volts when I got the rest from DigiKey. Results kept pulling tantalums. How much does voltage matter here?
You guys were right. Got the new speaker and it was a dud, didn’t help at all. Trying to find a capacitor for the board on amazon or eBay since I literally need just one. Trying to avoid making it a $15 piece with shipping.
Another clear coat issue...
This damn game is too violent for itself. First the ball trough chipping because the force of the ball slamming into the side and now all the saucers are cracked too.
I put a thin strip of felt where the lip meets the wall to help slide the ball out of the hole. Wish I did this BEFORE the clear started cracking
By this point I’ll probably get it right on my 20th restoration
CBA4A4C7-6C15-4929-ADE4-B433A030567C (resized).jpeg50108341-8A69-43D9-B53E-F600E69ED771 (resized).jpegGot the Wolffpac kit this morning. Super easy to put together and good lord does that look better!
59D7C2B4-F841-4BED-9632-E8A3DBC20E98 (resized).jpeg619A1FD8-86DC-44E4-8C66-CFE7CD67D95B (resized).jpegEF54F501-3B95-4A94-A25C-37487A0F903F (resized).jpeg25BDE979-0D05-4751-8269-B7BCBDF6B923 (resized).jpeg399961A1-8FE4-40F1-913E-FA4E7061CC06 (resized).jpegI wish! I was feeling pretty good about myself until I realized the 1-6 targets weren’t adjusted right and I was scoring mega points because of vibration. Now I’m lucky to break 500k
As I get more familiar with this machine one thing that keeps bugging me is the exposed lights behind the stand up targets.
6418BDE3-24C5-4649-AA27-7B0DD0CB48C2 (resized).jpeg
I want there to be a translucent wall behind them similar to the plastic used in the FIRE rollover lanes.
I tried to make my own out of some of these lens filters I got.
D84ADB76-9ABD-4CEB-B7BD-EB2FDCB72665 (resized).jpeg
Not sure how I feel about it. But it’s better than staring full on into a bulb....
B154B805-FAA3-4874-89C6-43A45966968C (resized).jpegA2A5D913-35C7-4C4A-9B6E-4E137FBB08F6 (resized).jpeg7E0B8013-392E-4837-BFC4-472B12B76FE0 (resized).jpeg36F084DE-AA54-43AD-8E1F-87F3D82483B7 (resized).jpeg05CA905E-F229-4860-B50C-D3336CA3AA68 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Billc479:Wouldn't it be easier to buy colored bulb condoms?
Bulb condoms are the same as buying a Red LED. I don’t want the plastic to be lit entirely red or red light to be cast entirely from the bulb. Same as when I fixed the plastic art earlier, don’t want red everything just red specifics.
Quoted from ss-pinball:How are you finding the black rubbers?
Any difference from the standard ones?
I have heard that the black ones are lightly stiffer and less lively(I've also heard that they dry out and lose elasticity faster) than the white ones.
I've got a set of black for one of my Blackouts and the other has white.
Going to tune the machines against each other and I'll have a decent feeling for it when the second Blackout is done.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
I love them. These are the silicone Titans not the regular black rubbers.
I got them after putting a white set in my Mata Hari. Look and play great.
I need to clean all the lint and stuff off them from me touching’m tho 
1 week later
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Nice Job. Game looks great.
Quoted from phillyfan64:That’s a beauty. Looks great, plays great. Fantastic job.
Quoted from ss-pinball:Damn fine job! Beautiful!
Thanks fellas!
Even after this video I needed to dial in a few switches.
My 1-6 targets are solid but a few blades needed adjusted behind some of the rubbers between posts. I also found that all 3 of these switches would make contact when the ball would bounce off the left orbit area. Needed to tighten the rubber up and bend some blades but I think it’s about as good as I’ll ever get it.
B3FEEB04-5BF2-415B-ADF7-6CAD61E6AFAF (resized).jpegQuoted from mof:Thanks for making the vid for us!
Looks like it plays clean and fast.
My two cents (to all firepower owners):
* consider adjusting the exit wall on the left saucer so that it doesn't dribble out onto top of sling.
* consider adding cliffy enhanced frames to remove the ball hop (gotta use slo-mo to check for sure).
* brighten up the dark spots under a few plastics. the one by the right outlane is the most bang for buck for sure.
* comet strip under the apron to brighten up around the flippers.
-mof
I’ve been adjusting the left scoop wall. 7/10 times it feeds right to the left flipper, I’m afraid to bend that guide out any further away from the post. Figures it would be a dud the first time ejecting the scoop while I video 
but if you watch the 2 times it ejects during multiball and at the end it feeds fine.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Well crap.
Can you doublecheck the socket and solder job on IC3? Do you have another IC3 to try?
I’m going to check the solder maybe later tonight or tomorrow after work and report back.
Quoted from mof:Perhaps then the key is a cleaner hit from the scoop eject, so that 10/10 clear the slings
Good call, I pulled the spring on the mech and shortened it so it is tighter and now the feed is solid. Thanks
1 week later
Quoted from ss-pinball:So I just searched "mouse piss" on the forum and this wonderful thread came up...
Hahaha that’s awesome
Originally I was going to use a product called “Natures Miracle” because it has natural enzymes that eat away at the bacteria that causes the smell but it has too much water in it. Was worried it’d really warp the wood more than it already was.
I just cleaned it the best I could with Mean Green. Then after I sanded it down I soaked the wood in 91% alcohol a few times and let it dry before I painted it. I still think I can faintly smell it when I open the backbox but I think it’s in my head and I’m associating the smell of new paint with pee now.
Quoted from ss-pinball:I cleaned it out yesterday with a bleach-based bathroom cleaner.
Will probably do that again with a toothbrush to try to further lighten the stains with some kind of enzyme cleaner formulated for urine.
There's gotta be a concentrated product somewhere.
Will then let it dry completely and hit it with a coat or two of Killz.
Will probably replace that section of ground wire and the on/off switch, just to be thorough...maybe even the chunk of wood that the switch is mounted on....depending on the level of damage, maybe just sanding off the stain.
Sounds like by doing all that you should be good
1 month later
She caught my eye this morning 
E45C339B-42A7-4DAF-A84D-A9212ED4BA4D (resized).jpeg5E0878AB-4E78-48AA-AF7D-9639D3DF7225 (resized).jpeg
One thing I don’t like about my camera on this new phone is it’s too good and catches the refresh or whatever of displays. It always looks like segments are out. And DMDs look terrible with it.
BA632378-12B4-4464-9C1E-38616F64DEBB (resized).jpeg71208162-96EA-4A36-B95F-3921E0834876 (resized).jpeg0E8748F7-087D-4B39-A930-15884E732241 (resized).jpeg76732C7C-24CE-43B7-856B-4FF8A318E205 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Yes, Looks great! Nice Job. Enjoy!
Quoted from Manny65:Wow! Simply stunning - you've done an amazing job. Well done
Now I want one
Thanks fellas!
Man I suck so bad at this game. I swear every single target was designed to bounce off right into the outlanes.
I never shake my games around but this game frustrates me right into tilt city. 
1 week later
Update with this restoration:
I got sick of the sound being so little when balancing the voice. I decided to see if a new speech board would help.
HOLY CRAP!!!
Popped this new baby in and BOOM!!!! This game is loud as hell
So with that being said I think I can finally close the book on this project.
Thanks so much to everyone that helped me out with this resto. All the help shows how awesome this site is when it comes to support.
Bittersweet but this thread gets the check mark now.
36938582-E6A7-4D15-9D0F-8D47B6D43D6C (resized).jpeg35E6D75F-0864-4E21-A901-5A1DB4077EFC (resized).jpegQuoted from kciaccio:Where did you get the apron decal? I have been looking for a firepower one!
Here you go sir.
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=11800
Check mark back off:
Ok since my sound issue is fixed I remembered I bought a better speaker.
I installed it and MAN does it Bump 
. Feels like a shaker is installed. Problem now is it has TOO MUCH BASS and the high end sounds muffled. I wish I had a tone adjustment or something to EQ the mids and hi frequency
Any suggestions? Something easy is preferred.
I hear adding an inline capacitor might cut some of the Low end but I’m not sure what kind of cap, what orientation, what line so on so forth.
1549358A-917B-4902-AB5E-820451673AB7 (resized).jpegQuoted from mrm_4:Check mark back off:
Ok since my sound issue is fixed I remembered I bought a better speaker.
I installed it and MAN does it Bump . Feels like a shaker is installed. Problem now is it has TOO MUCH BASS and the high end sounds muffled. I wish I had a tone adjustment or something to EQ the mids and hi frequency
Any suggestions? Something easy is preferred.
I hear adding an inline capacitor might cut some of the Low end but I’m not sure what kind of cap, what orientation, what line so on so forth.[quoted image]
Any thoughts on tone adjustment for system 6 games to accommodate wider range speakers?
4 weeks later
Got my lockdown bar from Robertstone0407 He worked his powder coating magic.
The clear coated painted one was working but the clear was too soft and smudged too easily. I’m saving it til I can reclear it with SprayMax 2k and use it on another project.
Hot damn does that look nice!
5EDAB317-AEDD-48DC-B296-07B227B0B1BC (resized).jpeg79778618-2F32-4531-9035-A3F9A6E011E3 (resized).jpeg
9205F707-42F8-4412-A95E-58332305A983 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
I got sick of the 1-6 targets not being consistent. Either bricking or runaway scoring no matter how much I tweaked them. So I bought 6 of these assemblies from marco.
E0C533DF-3751-440F-A053-A83EE9C8E030 (resized).jpeg56B05E83-C7A7-4465-A2B2-4F856A3F9E74 (resized).jpeg
I took the back apart and added the blade for the diode to be attached.
F545D532-A3F1-42DF-A6FE-7A17CB2B6834 (resized).jpeg
F00CE2A1-7DB3-452F-A76F-1AB3DBCAC96C (resized).jpeg
And made new target decals.
75BCB536-26E4-462B-8362-4C28D3B178DA (resized).jpeg
I also took the cap off and replaced with the diode.
Quoted from Teamhex:Where'd you get those score/instruction cards that go on the apron there?
I stole them from beatmaster
His Firepower resto thread is what sparked my interest in the game. I still check his thread about 4 times a week waiting for progress
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/firepower-restoration-it-has-begun/page/6#post-4231878
1 month later
These lanes on the machine were giving me some pretty bad ball hop so I decided to get the enhanced version of cliffys outlanes.
BA68BD09-F20F-4586-B343-2C9FB1B6DC29 (resized).jpeg
I pulled the old lanes out and filed the bell posts off to transfer to the new.
A836714C-4B4D-4538-BC0F-F53F82AA8CE7 (resized).jpeg
Cleaned them up with some evaporated for a while
69AA9223-2EFE-4286-8BE6-EA9CD464CDBB (resized).jpeg
Put on replacement decals I made for the lanes and noticed that the holes drilled on the right lane are wider than the left.
I tried to get the tops of the old bells to expand with my punch but the holes are too wide so there is play and the lane doesn’t sit high enough
So now I still have the same ball hop.
I hate this hobby sometimes
9485FB82-F47D-49E7-B6C9-BFF66549376F (resized).jpeg
So on the right out lane I teetered the left side of it as high as I could and teetered the right of it as low as I could and tightened the hell out of it.
Plays like butter for a game or 2 until the impact of the ball pushes the right out lane too low towards the right flipperimage (resized).jpg
6 months later
Quoted from calla76759:mrm_4, I just picked up a Firepower that's in need of some repairs and found this thread. It led me to your other threads (Mata Hari, Xenon, Shangri-La, Rocket...) and I went down the rabbit hole and read 'em all.
Inspiring stuff, man. It's beyond dispute that your work is incredible. And I enjoy going on the journey of each of your restorations. You have a great narrative that incorporates research, decision-making, joy, frustration...the whole gamut. If Vid is the restoration god who passes down wisdom from the clouds, you are the bravest of us mortals striving for greatness. That resonates through a lot of your threads when you're hardest on yourself. You have a moment in each of your threads when you ask the "why God why?" question. Usually it comes when you are deciding whether or not to set the machine on fire: The clouding clear coat. The wrinkling siderail paint. The defective hardtop. WHY??
I think it's because you always challenge yourself and you always push the envelope. No more, no less. You make every project the best it can be. When the cabinet is done, you go for the playfield. When the playfield is done, you go for the backglass. When the backglass is done, you take the machine to a show and win 1st prize. That's good stuff. Maybe OCD is a part of it, but I think it's much more about that drive - that relentless drive. For my part, I usually take the more timid approach and say "this looks good - I'll stop here before I screw something up."
Anyway, cheers. I spent so many hours reading your restoration threads that I feel like celebrating your successes, and I learned a lot. Cent'anni!
Wow thanks for the kind words, I really appreciated reading this, especially today! I’ve been on some what of an unwanted hiatus from pinball restoration and it’s really depressing me. My projects are my outlet and I haven’t been able to dedicate time to anything and the longer I go the more I get depressed. As soon as I can get a few things situated I’ll get back into finishing xenon. Thanks again for checking out my threads!
6 months later
Quoted from Manny65:Is that the new CPR backglass? I have one heading my way too
Yep it’s great! Last time it was for sale I was 1 of 2 that paid for it then I got that heart breaking phone call saying they couldn’t make it. So glad they are allowed now!
1 year later
Well this thread gets to wake from the dead!
The games been playing great since the restoration finished up but one thing I’ve been wanting to do is add an additional power supply for the cabinet LEDs because it’s annoying plugging and unplugging the strip anytime I want them on. I’d rather they just power on and off with the game. So I pulled up beatmaster ’s old resto thread which has always been a source of inspiration to see how to go about it.
I also bounced some ideas off Deez and decided to go this route.
Found this power supply that provides 12v and 5v and decided to use terminals to distribute each voltage. EF0A4203-9C10-4802-A591-7AB3E9D61CA2 (resized).jpeg90A10B64-DC6B-44AF-A26D-93E456F0D27F (resized).jpeg
It was all about finding real estate in the cab to make it work at this point.
88BA6E45-79EB-49C9-9FD4-A30C5883FED2 (resized).jpeg77F3CEF0-7737-4019-BD78-E54012B2F0E6 (resized).jpegI got the layout I wanted for hardware but when I was wiring it up something wasn’t working like it was expected.
It’s simple enough:
-ground to ground from the power cord to the new supply
-Neutral off of the filter to the neutral on the supply
-Hot from the dead side of the games power switch to line side of the power supply
DA368F77-6930-47C4-A630-2E3D2E4C215F (resized).jpeg66D17E82-5C4C-4AD1-8261-DB5BD52DF804 (resized).jpeg7C3B2E96-DAE3-4EFB-AF90-93F54F8C54F1 (resized).jpeg
After I got every hooked up I plugged the game in and flipped the switch and nothing happened.
I unplugged the game and did a bunch of continuity checks and it wasn’t making any sense. The hot side of the switch was making continuity to the hot line on the cord but the dead side of the switch was making continuity with the neutral
Then when I did a voltage check. The switch would show 115 Volts when the game was off F8CD7B36-2D3B-4536-A219-1E0277DD3BED (resized).jpegbut when I powered the game on I would not get any voltage reading. 20C7438B-ACD9-40C4-B8FA-8E83B3BC6306 (resized).jpegI was losing my mind with this.
I ended up reaching out to beatmaster about it and he said I was doing it right but something was off and to find the wire.
I blew up Deez phone about it too. Wtf is going on???
I pulled the plug from the wall again and got the wiring diagram and started tracing every wire to the transformer.
64D017DA-0AE3-4EAC-852C-5CA666E8F73B (resized).jpeg
I don’t know how this game was working or had not caught on fire…
The wiring in this blue connector was not at all what it was supposed to be according to the diagram. The neutral was pinned to 1 and the switch was pinned to 3 and the jumpers were not right either.
4AEC7C43-8FE7-4037-BE31-45E40467E97B (resized).jpeg
I had a .093 sized remover for the transformer side of the connector so I left the blue connector be and then rearranged the pins on the transformer side according to the diagram 5B099850-E2E0-4254-8E0D-57368D44DF19 (resized).jpegand BOOM my extra power supply lit up when I turned the game on!
03C9BF09-25BE-4A73-9B8D-B54082C8D292 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Hawesville, KY
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