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(Topic ID: 256547)

DUMPSTER FIREpower


By mrm_4

10 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 494 posts
  • 75 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 58 Pinsiders

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20
#1 10 months ago

Picked up a project Firepower....
So here we go!

Got a text from @fattdirk Tuesday:
“Hey, I’m gonna unload that project firepower I have, you want it?”

Me: “Shut up and take my money!”

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11
#2 10 months ago

Should boot right up

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#3 10 months ago

Going to need a backglass. Was surprised to find that CPR doesn’t have any. Unless I missed something.

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#4 10 months ago

A few good things with this project:
Got a new display board to replace the crumbling original.

2 playfields, 1 is an obvious Hardtop candidate.

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#5 10 months ago

Here’s the board situation:
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Few extra displays
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Gonna need a new one of whatever this is.
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#6 10 months ago

A lot of bag and tag already done plus I have extra plastics and a decent looking apron.

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15
#7 10 months ago

Put the better playfield on the rotisserie and finished the tear down.

I sprayed enough Mean Green on it in hopes that’ll it’ll piss off vid1900 enough to log back in and scold me.

I got halfway done with cleaning it up tonight after the family left from our holiday dinner.

I’ll remove the pop bumpers and finish the top half tomorrow.

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#12 10 months ago
Quoted from Biffbar:

How far are you taking the rebuild? The one playfield looks reasonably good. Going for the "player", or doing a hardtop & cabinet paint? Whichever way you go, in the end you will have a really good game to play.
Dumpster reference caught my attention. Built one up two years ago, a player, from accumulated parts. I don't want to tell you how long it sat around before I got to it. Had a planked cabinet from an open shed, where the head had rotted away (pulled boards and left the rest for the trash). The playfield survived thanks to the glass over it, and an operator applied clear coat. Found another backglass and head at a pinball show.

This is a project to keep me busy so I plan on doing as much as I can. I’m actually going to restore the one playfield. So I’ll touch it up after I get it clean, then I’ll replace a bunch of inserts, and in the spring I’ll clearcoat it.
I’m also going to hardtop the other playfield since it’s a complete mess.

More than likely I’ll put the hardtop in the machine and then sell the restored playfield.

#13 10 months ago

Took the beat playfield outside this morning to sand it down.
Seems to be a bit of mouse piss damage and a couple broken screws.

I’ll drill out the screws and dowel the holes.

I have a few cracked plastics I’ll need to replace. I might just buy all new plastics, depends on my mood I guess.

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#16 10 months ago

Removed the curled up arrow inserts, pop bumpers, and the Mylar. Everything was going fine until I started removing the adhesive with alcohol and flour and one of the pops the paint rubbed right off like it was a sheet of paper.
Really strange.

Oh well I’ll repaint it, I think it’s ready for some touch ups.

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#18 10 months ago

To practice getting the feel for popping out inserts, sanding, then reinstalling them, I threw the beat hardtop play field on the rotisserie and pushed out the ones that were cupped so bad I couldn’t properly sand them.

Now this is not something you HAVE to do for a hardtop install but I did it anyway for the practice.

I’m going to pop all the inserts out on the good pf to level so I don’t have to screw around too much with eye dropping clear coat later on during this project.
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#21 10 months ago

I love this part, I get very aquatinted with my new machine by labeling everything for the harness removal.
Took 2 hours, so not too bad I guess.

Up next, the dishwasher.

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#23 10 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Mayfair probably has the backglass in stock with their seemingly "endless" supply of NOS firepower and black knight glasses.

I actually have a lead on really nice one. More to come on that.

#26 10 months ago
Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

You worked on it until you were blue in the face?

Yeah pretty much
My wife stopped down in the basement to see how I was because I was quiet for a while. She interrupted herself when she saw what I was doing with:
“Hey babe, you doing alri...JESUS! Why are you such a psycho?!!”

I think it’s necessary

#27 10 months ago

I wish I did this with my other projects. Turned out so good!
Dirty
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Clean!
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#28 10 months ago

Cleaned up the boards.
Oooof....
I’ll probably just replace them with the Rottendog combo. Not sure yet.

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#29 10 months ago

I guess this is common to see a mismatched insert for the targets next to the extra ball arrow?
Should I leave it or switch it out for one of the other blue inserts on the other playfield?

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2 weeks later
#30 10 months ago

I decided to pop out all the inserts. Sanded down with 400 grit and reinstalling to hopefully avoid ghosting. Got some help in the firepower club thread with finding all the insert key lines to apply after a level layer of clear.

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#31 10 months ago

I wanted to up my game with doing restos so I decided to get an airbrush. Found a nice kit on amazon for $90 came with 3 brushes and a compressor.

Never dabbled with airbrushing before so I tried a few color transitions.

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#32 10 months ago

The first thing I’m doing is painting all the reflective areas under the plastics white.

Makes for a major difference. It’s actually pretty easy doing it like this compared to a regular brush like I normally do.

Although I’m not a fan of cutting the frisket. I cant seem to get the feel for pressure, speed, accuracy, plus making sure that the blade gets changed when it starts to dull.

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#33 10 months ago

I got bored doing the white. I wanted a challenge so I decided to redo all the red and fix the laser burst up to the right. I’m addicted to airbrushing!

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#34 10 months ago

Redid the pop bumper burst that got screwed up when pulling the mylar and finished the white. Just need to do some white pin stripes around the outside of a few areas.
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1 week later
#35 9 months ago

There’s gotta be an easier way. The whole time the little voice in my head is saying. “Just buy the hardtop”
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I couldn’t seem to get the aged white to be perfect so I got it close, flooded the bare wood areas, then fanned the surrounding areas with the off white.

Then had to paint all the planet designs back on to hide the touch up.

Not happy with it but whatever.
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#39 9 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The planet looks great. I'd be happy with that!

Thanks!
I’m really hard on myself, and I’m especially frustrated lately with color matching. I had a good streak of hitting colors dead on the money but lately I can’t seem to get it right.

I set the playfield aside for a bit to give my eyes a rest.

Started cleaning the wires for the displays and attempting to repairing the master display board.

They were filthy. The mud dripping off these after spraying mean green is in unreal.

I probably need to replace all the connectors. The thought of doing this for 300 wires makes me nauseous.

I move some unused traces over to replace the missing ones and glued the glass back onto the board. Need a few resistors and I should be ok.

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#42 9 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The resistors you mention are all the 10k resistors near the top of the master display board, right? Several look toasty in your pictures.
Be careful with those display connectors. Those contacts have long been discontinued and are pricey to replace if you can even find them. They rarely fail anyway. If you have a bad contact, try lightly cleaning the contact fingers on the board with a fiberglass sanding pen.

Yes I believe they are all 10k resistors. I’m about to buy a bunch. Might just shot gun it and replace them all to keep myself occupied. As for the contacts the transfer went pretty well. As you can see in the last pic I got them all situated. I really hope this works.

Does anyone know of a way to test the displays without having them installed. I won’t have this backbox ready for power for quite a while and I’d like to see if these things are working.

Maybe alligator clips and a battery on certain points. Anything just to see if the digits light up?

#43 9 months ago
Quoted from Bc3:

Just wondering if you have any pics and what you used to glue the display back on? The double sided tape on mine has failed and is leaning away from the pcb. Thanks

I just superglued mine back nothing fancy

#48 9 months ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Your pf painting brings back a lot of memories doing mine.. although I hand painted (airbrushing is so much better!!) I only planned on doing touchup and bare wood repaint but ended up going farther and farther, repainting all back and star background and off white over all the scoring lettering. Tedious!
Caution with those key lines — I used the same ones. If your auto clearing it’s prob fine but if you’re going with hand paint or spray can Clear — I sanded and leveled all my inserts and those damn key line stickers Raised the areas and made it impossible to get a really flat clear layer even after a ton of coats (I was using spray cans)

I’m going to print the key lines on water slide decal paper so hopefully it’ll be ok. Thanks for the heads up!

#50 9 months ago
Quoted from ViriiGuy:

Mayfair's emails seem to not work. Are they still in business?

I tried to reach out to them last year about a Shangri La backglass and never got any response.

#52 9 months ago

I’m not a religious man, but Lord give me strength...

The stench of mouse piss is making me gag.
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Anyone know if you can soak a transformer to clean it?

#54 9 months ago

As much as I want to seem like I know what I’m doing I’m often reminded that I’m clueless.

I need to replace several pins and connectors on this game.

I want to buy things from Great Plains but I’m not sure which pins or connectors to get for this game.

What I see on the game I’m not seeing match with the pictures for connectors which makes me think the body style is different or something.

What part number pin and part number connector should I get to replace this?

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#55 9 months ago

As a follow up what part numbers for the pins and connectors would replace this example?

Thanks for any help on this.

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#57 9 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Holler if you need a set of displays. I have 4 that were working plus the Master Display. The Master Display PWB has problems, but the display is fine. Got tired of fooling around w/the hard to obtain high voltage chips - went w/the WolfPac LED version instead.
Came out of a World Cup (Sys 3). Ugh...that was a bear to work on.

I might take you up on that. Initially I was going to do the Wolfpac LEDs but I started tinkering around. PM me how much you were gonna sell them for. I’ll get back to you.

#59 9 months ago

I think I got the playfield as good as I can get it for clearcoating. After I lay the first coat down and level it for the water slide decals I’m see what else needs touched up before the final coats.

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#60 9 months ago

Cleaned up the transformer and all attached wiring. Holy crap that was awful. Took forever from being as careful as I could not to get water in the center. Once it was clean of mouse feces I brushed on naval jelly to dissolve the rust. I might paint it later on in the resto.
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#61 9 months ago

Sanded out the ball trail on the ball guides. I’m going to buy some new wood and remake the rails. Going back and forth on whether to paint the new rails red or black.
Before
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#62 9 months ago

The back box display panel is back in order. Just need to test this Master Display board now that I’ve replaced all the resistors. Really hope this thing hasn’t out gassed.

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1 week later
#63 9 months ago

Figured out this edge connector and anode configuration on the display panel. Also got all the caps to redo the sound board.

What else other than caps are typically needed for these sound boards?

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#65 9 months ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

If the sound board is working, caps should be it.

Ok good to know. I won’t know until I get the other boards and chips. Long way to go...

2 weeks later
18
#67 8 months ago

Not my best work but the coin door is better I guess. Pretty sure this piece of crap sat in a lake for a while.

On the hunt for the other 2 yellow credit switch covers and a washer and nut for the high score reset button.

Also I decided to use the prototype drop target art for the center coin acceptor.

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#70 8 months ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Maybe it was his wife b/c of the work being done on the washer

She is pretty pissed that I do that

#73 8 months ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

wow, that looks AMAZING! That's the same coin door?!
What did you use on it?
Chris

I just soaked everything thing in evaporust. The front had some scratches so after the chemical bath I just wet sanded it for about 30 minutes with 1500 grit sandpaper.

Typically I would’ve hand sanded every piece to remove the pitting then tumbled everything but I’m just loosing motivation I guess.

I appreciate the compliments though.

#77 8 months ago

In case anyone has some extras laying around, im looking for 2 of those credit switch covers.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-credit-switch-covers-for-coin-door

#78 8 months ago
Quoted from CPR:

Firepower PFs being cleared as I type this

How many did you guys clear, like 2?

#80 8 months ago

Thanks man, I’m in a mental dilemma about this game. Initially I wanted to just bring it back to life. So I guess I was going for a player and not a show piece. But I keep thinking, “if I just do a little more with this part....” and “I might as well just strip it completely”

So in the end it’ll probably be a show piece hahaha

I’m considering taking the door apart again and redoing it.

#82 8 months ago

Got my new power supply, MPU-Driver combo, and replaced all the caps on the sound board.

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#83 8 months ago

Pulled all the metal out of the back box and cleaned it up. It’s interesting how the one sheet is “stained” from the original sticker. I’m not too worried, my replacement sticker will cover it.
Also it appears this is a Blackout backbox???

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#84 8 months ago

Every piece of metal is getting the evaporust bath and the tumbler treatment. I dropped the ball on taking “before” pictures.

The rust was pretty horrible. Some parts are coming out fine and others are pretty rough. Some of the pitting is cringe worthy

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#86 8 months ago

Thank god for tumblers

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#87 8 months ago

Got 2 Credit Switch covers from rixzilla today. Perfect match!

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#88 8 months ago

A little premature to reveal but I’m bored...
Created a sticker for the ball stop in the saucers.
Fun little Easter egg for the game.

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#90 8 months ago

Got my specialty washer and nut in the mail today from hhaase !

Every little piece counts

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#92 8 months ago

Got my order from Titan! Gonna be a while but I can’t wait to see these installed.

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#94 8 months ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Is that a custom set of rings you built or one from Titan's database?

I just picked it from referencing the sizes on firepowerpinball.com, ordered a few extras just in case. But I like the all black look, and I have black flippers so I thought Red bands would look sweet

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#96 8 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

That black/red look is great.
Very "A-Team-ish"

Thanks I cant wait to clear this playfield so I can get everything back together.

Never played or seen a (working) Firepower in person so this is going to be cool to see it start to come together once the weather breaks. COME ON SPRING!!!!!!!!!

#100 8 months ago

I’m new to these early Williams solid states, I’m going to look up some blackout game play.

#101 8 months ago

Oh man!!!!
(Insert eggplant emoji)

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#102 8 months ago

While my wife drags her feet on deciding what we are doing tonight I took the available time to drill out every light socket on the wire harness with a part of a socket cleaner.
All work perfectly!

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#104 8 months ago

Yeah what is this crap???

#105 8 months ago

I think it’s true patina by definition, not the over glorified patina that pinheads use to describe old dirty machines

#106 8 months ago

Time to start tearing into this mess.

It’s not too hard to take apart when almost every screw head brakes off...

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#107 8 months ago

Ok I’m going to hit it with a little windex and I’ll be good to go

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3 weeks later
#110 7 months ago

Not too much to report. Everything I need to do involves sanding and spray painting outside and the temperatures suck still.

I did however make a major push forward with the lockdown bar.
Days of evaporust and grinding rust off with a spinning wire brush in the drill. Pitting is terrible though.

I’ll probably paint it with the 2in1 Filler and Primer a few times then paint the main piece and the sliding bar retainer piece black or red.
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#111 7 months ago

Lot of pitting on almost all the metal. The rust was REALLY bad.
Anyone know if these can be bought at Home Depot or something?

It’s the service outlet housing.

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#112 7 months ago

So yesterday I had to rip new rails with a jigsaw because of the odd 1&1/8th width. I went slower than hell and they actually turned out pretty good. I’m going to black lacquer them. Used the Rustoleum lacquer on the smaller rail at the shooter lane as a test. Only did one surface to keep from getting carried away.
Damn this stuff is nice!

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#115 6 months ago

I think after 3 machines I finally learned how to spray paint.
Totally changed my method, I follow more of how auto painting is done. (I think)
In an hour I primed, painted, and cleared my first leg.

Started with the primer obviously, laying 3 very thin even coats 2 minutes apart. I then set my timer for 15 minutes.
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Then did the same process with the black.

After all the coats were applied I waited 15 minutes I applied clear.
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2 light passes, waited 10 minutes, 2 more light passes, waited 10 minutes then 4 light passes to finish with an even wet look and no runs and bam! I’m happy.
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Excuse the ladder and coat hanger assembly.

#116 6 months ago

Also applied Satin black to the apron and shooter lane cover. I’ll actually apply this decal in a day or 2.

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#119 6 months ago
Quoted from PNBLWZD:

Looks great! Years ago I struggled painting aprons and trim trying to find a black spray option that would lay down nicely and look wet smooth and glossy. Then someone here suggested rustolium black lacquer, which I tried and it worked really well with no drama. I’m actually surprised such a good product is still available lol.

I typically would use a gloss for the apron, but because of the sheen of this decal i went satin and it actually matched up perfectly. I used the Rustoleum black lacquer spray on one of the rails to test it out and its amazing. I'll probably finish the rails tonight after work.

#120 6 months ago

I figured I might as well get the lockdown coat of clear on the playfield today.

Built my trusty paint booth in the garage and got the pf leveled.
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Here was my approach:

Laid the first thin coat in vertical passes spacing out in five sweeps back and forth 2 times then set my timer at 10 minutes.
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Did the same process but horizontal sweeps twice laying a second really thin mist. Set timer 10 minutes.
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The third coat was heavier this time I did the same passes but just did it twice both ways. This just about emptied the first can.
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Same process I waited 10 minutes and did the same light mist sweeps but since I was in the heavy stage I did the passes twice.
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And the after waiting my final 10 minutes I did my 5th and final passes almost emptying the can.

And the results look like awful!
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But it’s ok I’m going to let this sit a week and then I have to sand everything level and level inserts. Not sure why the planet reacted like it did.

I have 4 more cans so I’m sure the next application this thing is going to be back on track.

Now before anyone asks, I cleaned the playfield with scented hand soap and a can of pledge. So I’m not sure why it fish eyed on me.

I wet sanded the whole playfield with 400 grit and wiped it up with 91 % alcohol and then cleaned it all again with naphtha after airbrushing it.

#123 6 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Dust in the air, or on the Pf, likely in the air,
Also, naptha is best to use to clean the surface just before clearing, I've also used a spray cleaner with vinegar in it when In a pinch

Yeah naphtha is what I wiped it with. Other than the possibility of dust,I’m wondering if something screwy was going on with the 2nd can. Everything was fine til those last 2 coats with that can. And the first pass with the new can I started from the bottom up. Who knows....

#124 6 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Watch the Cary Hardy videos on youtube of his Hook clear coat. He ran into that exact problem (but worse).
Goto the ~1:00 min mark:

Sometimes things just happens. Strange that it’s only the planet though. Everything else looks great. I’ll have to sand it down and try again because I’m not able to just drench the playfield like he did to recover.

#126 6 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

If I recall correctly, he fills in some spots by hand. Any chance you can do that?

So I’m going to let this set for a week then I’m going to block sand it level. My plan was to get a different “non aerosol” clear to drop into the low parts of the inserts. Depending on how bad this looks after I sand I might need to do that in all of these spots (which sounds horrible).

But like I mentioned. I still have 4 cans to go. If I can’t get this fixed in 4 cans then Outside Edge will get some more of my money for a hardtop.

#127 6 months ago

Even if I do get it fixed all the inserts are going to ghost after a year anyway

#128 6 months ago

After a couple of hours it’s dry to the touch and looks awesome (except the planet)
Keeping faith that I’ll be able to have a decent playfield when it’s done.
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#131 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

A week is overkill for leveling the PF. You should be able to sand a layer every 24 hours. This will open the pores up and give the clear the ability to cure faster. It's easier to sand while the clear is softer too.

so if i sand tonight, should I clear it again saturday to give the newly exposed clear a chance to cure. I just dont want to rush it and get major wrinkling from being too aggressive. Thats something ive battled in the past that drives me nuts.

#132 6 months ago

Or sand it tonight and let it sit a week then do the next application?

#135 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Now that you have a good base coat. I would sand a layer every 24 hours until you are level. You need to get a 2PAC and an eye dropper for getting those inserts filled. Looks like the clear had to fill the cavity around them. You need these cavities filled before you can apply your next coat. The good news is that you have a base coat. It may look rough, but can easily be fixed. Focus on getting those insert areas level with the rest of the playfield, first.

OK easy enough, I guess the opportunity to misinterpret direction here is what is considered a "layer".

Initially my thought was

1. sand with a block so the sunken areas are easily seen because they'll still be shiny.

2. Individually sand the pits so they have tooth also then let it sit

3. Lay down another can a week later, then begin the eye dropper process to fill in what 2 applications wont cover

4. Then sand truly level so i can apply water slides on the inserts

5. Then final layers of clear

When we say sand a layer every 24 hours, are you suggesting sand a certain number of passes or depth, wait 24 then sand again, wait 24 sand again... until we hit a type of goal?

#137 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.

Thanks man

#139 6 months ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

A true classic. Among Flash, Gorgar, Firepower, and Black Knight, Firepower is to me clearly the best. Love that you're bringing this one back.
btw I have EXACTLY that same Kenmore dryer. It was my mom's. In 40 years all we've done is change a belt. Indestructible.

Yep I changed the belt about 17 years ago. Things is a tank!

#140 6 months ago

Alright, let me start off by saying I’ve truly been dealing with OCD since I can remember and I am very analytical and calculated but remembering the D in OCD is Disorder reminds me why my brain become irrational when I obsess and having addiction issues really makes life fun.

Yesterday I decided to sand the playfield like advised. No problem but instead of walking away and finding another piece to work on I decided to go check out the SprayMax club thread and read up on how people overcome issues. One post in particular shows the same effect I had then 18 hours later the playfield was sanded and coated again with amazing results.

***OCD BRAIN TRIGGERED***

Now prior to 7 months ago I would just have some bourbon as a distraction but I’m now 7 months sober and I’m not going to let a resto push me off the wagon. So I said “Screw this I’m spraying!”

What I learned.
I still hate myself for not being in control of myself
And SprayMax is basically idiot proof. Product is amazing!
I added several more coats to flood the problem area with no sign of wrinkling and then I sprayed the little bit I had left in the cap and dripped it in the grooves around the inserts on the lower half of the playfield. Checked it this morning and WOW!
The pics are in order of progression.
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#141 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.

Sorry I went against your advice, now that I got the playfield in a spot that made me sleep better I’m going to begin the sanding process you advised and drip the low areas of the inserts to get things ready for the water slides.

#143 6 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Wow!
Sometimes a little OCD can be a good thing.

Thanks

Lol yeah...
I have about 300 posts on this site that I’ve made saying otherwise, glad I finally got a “win”

#145 6 months ago

Apron is good to go even though I’m not a fan of this decal. I had to exacto the red out and make a lot of adjustments to what was sent and even had to create a triangle decal for the right flipper directions. Come on man, how hard is it to scan an apron and clean up the lines and colors. I never understood these repo companies that miss details like that.
Obviously used beatmaster created cards.

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#147 6 months ago
Quoted from mof:

I can't tell how all the insert issues turned out from the final progression photos.

Inserts weren’t really the issue I went into this knowing they would have low spots and circular pits from the edges. I still need to sand and drip clear into about half the inserts and do more sanding.

This is what freaked me out.

Thursday night
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Friday night

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#150 6 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Looks amazing!

Thanks
Still have a longgggg way to go but little by little it’s getting done.

#151 6 months ago

Side rails off in 5 minutes
Sanding them down to get ready for primer
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#153 6 months ago

Sanded the playfield with a block sander while I wait for my 4 to 1 mixing ratio cans of clear and hardener to arrive in the mail.
I’ll drip clear into the sunken areas and into circular voids around the inserts. Problem I’m trying to resolve is how to dam up the clear from just dripping out through the tops of the arrows. maybe build up some epoxy from behind and hope it holds the pool of clear in?

You can pretty much see clean through the top of each arrow and the clear was running through the bottom when I tried the eye drop method with the SprayMax the other day.
image (resized).jpg

#155 6 months ago

I ended up mixing a 2 part epoxy and using a toothpick to smooth a layer around all the inserts where it meets the wood. Felt like I was doing microscopic drywall. Should be good to go now.

#158 6 months ago

My clear arrived 3 days ahead of schedule so that’s awesome. Eager to start dripping and leveling inserts.

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#159 6 months ago

Using the same method as the legs I sanded down the side rails.
2 coats of primer.
3 coats of Black.
Then 5 coats of clear.

I screwed up though, didn’t check the weather. It’s going to get down to 32 tonight. Paints probably going to freeze before it’s dry.

At the moment it looks amazing. Wondering if I should bring it into the basement in a few hours.

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#160 6 months ago

Finished the playfield rails today. Man I’m loving this Rustoleum lacquer!

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#161 6 months ago

The carriage bolts were rusted pretty bad and pitted. After the evaporust bath I put them in the drill and ran them over 220 600 1000 grit sand paper then buffed.
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Wanted to see how the rails will look with the new buttons and stainless screws. I’m really liking the contrast. E0D2D4A9-79AA-4729-945E-6B836C536593 (resized).jpeg

#163 6 months ago

Getting there I guess.
Inserts are still leaking like a drain. Need to figure out a plan for waterslides. The type I have look pretty bad on my test piece. They didn’t have a bad reaction or anything they just look terrible.

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#165 6 months ago

So it’s been about 10 minutes and the problem inserts are still holding strong with the new drips.
Tomorrow I’m going to lightly sand these then bury the playfield in SprayMax again.

Then it’s time to sand level and apply water slides.
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#167 6 months ago
Quoted from tflick:

Where did you get the decal for the apron? I've been hunting this down for a while.

It’s a bad repo but it’s the only one on the planet
https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Firepower+

#169 6 months ago

I wet sanded the orange peel effect off of my side rails and applied another layer of clear.
Things were going perfect until about 3 seconds after my last pass and a fucking mosquito landed right in the middle of the rail. I tried my best to plunk it out of the wet paint but it made a mess of things so I did one more pass to flood that area and like always I used too much and it wrinkled the paint. This hobby is stupid and I hate it. Burning this whole thing tonight in my fire pit.

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#170 6 months ago

In other news I have now 6 cans of SprayMax on my playfield.
Finally every imperfection is ABOVE the inserts so now I’ll be able to block sand the drips.

But we all know what will happen. As soon as I start to get it level, all of the low spots where the inserts meet the wood will reveal themselves again and I’ll be back to square one.

Stay tuned to see how I become my own worst enemy and completely ruin a decent project, next on “Matt Sucks at Everything!”
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#177 6 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Even more of a reason to hate mosquitos, haha

Quoted from tflick:

Thanks for the link, great job so far on the restore, looking forward to more pics

Quoted from swillie:

I have had clearcoat cause the wrinkled paint effect on model rockets before. I have finally learned to let the color coat dry at least a week before clearing and hasn't happened since. Very frustrating but looks great so keep at it!

Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

I really hope this comment was a joke. Your work is amazing to me. This is one of the best threads on Pinside, and your knowledge will help others. Sure, I can certainly understand your frustrations, but you'll get through it.
You're doing great! I wouldn't even attempt something like this.
Chris

Quoted from ReadyPO:

Thanks for showing us when things go wrong, best way to learn is from the mistakes. It also makes the feeling at the end when it all looks awesome that much better! Looking forward to further progress!

Quoted from gdonovan:

Keep trucking brother! Will be awesome when done and you will have a tale to tell.

Thanks for the motivation guys, after i get out of my pouting crybaby mode I'll get my brain into recovery mode for that rail. I'll probably use the Rustoleum 2in1 primer and filler to fix the wrinkle. I sanded the wrinkle down and it removed a lot of chunks of paint. It looks pretty terrible.

I sanded the playfield level and the inserts actually turned out pretty good. So thats a load off...

#179 6 months ago

I got my waterslide decals printed today and I sanded just the inserts up to 3000 grit then polished with Ultimate Compound.
Laid down 1 waterslide on the FIRE insert to test it out (go big or go home) then decided to lay another waterslide down on that one to double up the text.

Damn, it looks good!
85312CE8-2CEC-41E0-A3E0-A99A3E4202B9 (resized).jpeg6E3501BA-FAFC-4095-9C40-51BAEC11948A (resized).jpeg
1 waterslide AC68992C-1134-425A-BDE6-4C3FABEDAA52 (resized).jpeg2 waterslides 6FA271DA-BDF8-462F-A263-535FEB2C6C36 (resized).jpeg
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#181 6 months ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Looking good!
On the decals, if you have access to the printer, it may be easier to just run them through twice to get the right darkness for the letters. I think I did screw one up with poor alignment, but the printer did get the second aligned without a ghost image on the letters. That might be easier than aligning multiple decals by hand. You can always try first with a regular piece of paper to see how consistent the printer feeds.

i had to go to Staples to get them printed so I couldnt get the double run. I should be ok with the alignment as I layer them. We'll see how it goes.

#182 6 months ago
Quoted from setzkor:

Looking good!
On the decals, if you have access to the printer, it may be easier to just run them through twice to get the right darkness for the letters. I think I did screw one up with poor alignment, but the printer did get the second aligned without a ghost image on the letters. That might be easier than aligning multiple decals by hand. You can always try first with a regular piece of paper to see how consistent the printer feeds.

I’m so glad you resized the outline on these decals man. They all fit dead on and cover all the places I was worried about. Makes the transition from insert to playfield seamless

#184 6 months ago

Spraying the filler on the rail that got messed up by a bug landing in the clear....

Then this happens

Story of my life

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#185 6 months ago

Ehhh it’s good enough for decals.
I should’ve sanded it down to wood and skimmed it with bondo but the filler/primer “looked” like it had a perfect surface. Can’t be for sure until it’s glossy though.

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#190 6 months ago

It’s fine fellas
Thanks for checking tho

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#191 6 months ago

As soon as the temps are back in the 60s I’ll clear the playfield

In the meantime I’m doing a few things to get the backbox finished.

Decided to lacquer the transformer and make a new label for it.
The screws had some paper wrapping that I just replaced with electrical tape.
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#193 6 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

Playfield looks great!

Thanks can’t wait to clear over the decals and get it finished. It’s been a battle, if anyone has been following me crying like a baby in the SprayMax club thread you’d see my gripes about sanding and decals. But it’s ready to go.

#194 6 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Nicely spotted - if you rotate it, it'd be "5x" and then look odd compare to the others. I guess very few would spot the 5 being upside down once on the machine, however once you know it's there you can't un-see it.

All the 5s match except the one on the orange arrow. Wonder why they did that when making the art.

#196 6 months ago

I laid the backbox on its side to install new footers and decided it’s time lay the decals.
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I missed a photo op for my method but I lined up the decal and clamped it down at the top and in the middle on the side of the opening. Then I peeled the backing off the bottom and folded it under to adhere the bottom 6 inches or so.
Then I use my fingers and a microfiber towel to slide back and forth as I gradually pull back on the backing.
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The decals are great!
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Installed the backbox metal cut out the lock hole and I polished up the carriage bolts too. Looks pretty snazzy.
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#197 6 months ago

Time to put the guts back in the back box.

First I needed to desolder the connectors from the old rectifiers. Not sure if this was a hack or if this crap was done in the factory but what a pain.
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The new rectifiers are smaller than the original that’s for sure. I hope I have the orientation right with these...
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Got the boards installed and spent more time than I care to share trying to figure out where all the wires were supposed to go.
Also made new labels. Seemed odd putting labels back in for a board that’s not in use but oh well.
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I really hope everything is where it’s supposed to be and actually works...
Doesn’t look to bad compared to what I started out with.
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#199 6 months ago

I got a back glass to replace the nightmare this game originally had. Thanks to fattdirk he gave me one from his current game because he lucked out and got a really nice repo. So my new glass had just minor blemishes. Few scratches here and there. The green, yellow, black, and red were able to be touched up either by hand or airbrush. But I noticed the blue was just flaking away if you looked at it funny.
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I tried to paint where I could but just having the brush touch the blue paint would cause it to dust off so I sealed it using the tape method Steve from BGResto makes you do before you mail him a glass.
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Then I painted the blue areas the best I could over the tape.
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I think it turned out ok and in 30 years when the tape starts to yellow you guys can yell at me.
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#200 6 months ago

Backglass installed and I alligator clipped a 9v battery to see how the glass looks.

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#201 6 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Please don't hope you have the bridges wired up correctly, please verify. You can do lots of damage if they are wired incorrectly (blowing the big blue cap, boards, etc).
On the new bridge rectifiyers, the single lug that is turned differently than the others is the positive lead, the lug diagonally from the postitive lug is the negative. The other 2 lugs go to the transformer.

I’m pretty sure it’s correct. If you look at the pic of the new one it shows the + and the AC and I pulled one leg and moved it to the new at a time.
I actually started with the + then went opposite then left then right.

I’m 86% confident haha
I also used this as a reference but considering there aren’t any green wires on these rectifiers I’m left to assume they meant red.

You know, the completely opposite color on the color wheel...

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#204 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Now would be the time to fuse those bridges per Williams recommendation.

Not sure what you mean. Is it still necessary with all new boards?

#207 6 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

This is also a quick and easy update if you have not purchased new bridges yet.

Post 197 198 and 201 are about the new rectifiers i installed.

I guess ill look at getting a fuse holder and putting it between the transformer and the rectifier.

#210 6 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

If you're not happy with your touchups, you can give theater gels a try. Just cut and tape a small piece where you need and see how it looks. Cheap and translucent. You can also get some frosted film to go behind that to give a more original look. Never gonna be perfect, but I've always had terrible luck trying to get brushed on paint to look good lit up.
ebay.com link

Those are sweet, just bought the 20 piece set!
Thanks

#213 6 months ago

Ace Hardware had some flex tubing and a volume knob for the potentiometer.
I’m super excited that too-many-pins was able to get me a mounting bracket for that part.
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I needed to remake the tilt/sound panel so I used some birch ply I had left over from my flipperless rebuild when I restored my Bally Rocket.

I needed to get everything in place before I cut it down and paint it.
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#214 6 months ago

Was able to recover on the rail.
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Got the botched one back in order and another few coats of clear on both.
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#216 6 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Nice!. This game has great sounds. Have you mentioned what kind of speaker system you'll be using? I played a FP at the Lodi CA event and it had two tall speakers on both sidea of the machine. It sounded awesome. There was a sign that asked, is this machine for sale and his written response was " Are you High? ". That was the nicest FP I've ever played. Such a fun pin.

I havent really given the sound system much thought other than just getting it to work. I bought a new speaker for it, and replaced all the caps on the board so its getting SOME attention, outside of that I'm probably not going to do much more. I'll just be happy if this thing actually makes the right noises with the shape the sound board is in.

#217 6 months ago

DIODES!!!
Too many of them....
So far all the coils are done. Now I’ve moved on to the switches.
Using the matrixes and the schematics as a checklist. Going to be a lot of little check marks when I’m done.

To be honest, this sucks. By time I get through the switches I’m probably not going to have the motivation to do the lights.

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#219 6 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

You crazy! I have no appetite for this attention to detail.

Just trying to make it solid.

When it’s time to boot this thing up I figure if anything happens electronically I can rule out diodes, resistors, and caps under the playfield. Also, from everything I’ve read these are the culprits for frying new boards so trying to help there. ANDDDDD I want to limit lifting the playfield as much as possible to hopefully help keep down on unnecessary twisting, bending, or stress on the clear coat to avoid ghosting. I have absolutely no faith in clear coat after doing my Mata Hari and all the ghosting that happened, so I’m way too precautious now.

Plus we’re all in isolation anyway. Might as well be productive. So I’m shotgunning everything.

#221 6 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Where did you get the cabinet and head decals?

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-cabinet-decals/

I’m really happy with them, can’t wait to finish the cab.

#223 6 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

[quoted image]

I thought about going this route. I’m told that the red bull can of a cap going bad is like 1 in a million though.

#227 6 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I'm getting serious about doing my Blackout (putting in a little bit of time every day now) and have wondered about the best, easiest to understand, most effective way to address the bridge rectifier issue early Williams pins.. there's this Inkochnito one in the pic, there's a less elaborate one in marketplace for $18 and then there's going to the auto parts store and for about $4 getting the in-line-can't-see-it kind of fuse holder.

Quoted from gdonovan:

I used these from PBR, I keep them on hand for early Bally pins.[quoted image]

As soon as the rest of my stuff ships I'll give you an update of what I got going on in the way of the Cap/Rectifier/Fuses in the back box. I'll hoping to get it situated tomorrow.

#229 5 months ago

So I was fixated so much on a digikey order with coindoor button caps that I didn’t realize I got 3 other packages today. And one of them had these fuse holders I ordered, not expecting them to be this bulky.

Oh well I made them work and even created labels.

There’s where I landed with the rectifiers and fuses after your guys’ feedback.

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#230 5 months ago