(Topic ID: 256547)

DUMPSTER FIREpower


By mrm_4

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 459 posts
  • 72 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 59 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 429 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
05CA905E-F229-4860-B50C-D3336CA3AA68 (resized).jpeg
36F084DE-AA54-43AD-8E1F-87F3D82483B7 (resized).jpeg
7E0B8013-392E-4837-BFC4-472B12B76FE0 (resized).jpeg
A2A5D913-35C7-4C4A-9B6E-4E137FBB08F6 (resized).jpeg
D84ADB76-9ABD-4CEB-B7BD-EB2FDCB72665 (resized).jpeg
B154B805-FAA3-4874-89C6-43A45966968C (resized).jpeg
6418BDE3-24C5-4649-AA27-7B0DD0CB48C2 (resized).jpeg
399961A1-8FE4-40F1-913E-FA4E7061CC06 (resized).jpeg
25BDE979-0D05-4751-8269-B7BCBDF6B923 (resized).jpeg
619A1FD8-86DC-44E4-8C66-CFE7CD67D95B (resized).jpeg
EF54F501-3B95-4A94-A25C-37487A0F903F (resized).jpeg
59D7C2B4-F841-4BED-9632-E8A3DBC20E98 (resized).jpeg
15936495890047159883810512893621 (resized).jpg
50108341-8A69-43D9-B53E-F600E69ED771 (resized).jpeg

There are 459 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 10.
#351 36 days ago

Nice job, much better. Don’t even notice. Good for 40 more years. Great Grandkids are gonna say, what the hell?!

#353 36 days ago

I wonder if you layered the red a couple of times if it would help mute the spots further? You could add paint but I am not sure if that would just darken the spots too much?

#354 36 days ago
Quoted from pinhead_jack:

I wonder if you layered the red a couple of times if it would help mute the spots further? You could add paint but I am not sure if that would just darken the spots too much?

I’m sure a few more layers would help with the light. I think no matter what I do it’s going to still stand out so I’ll accept that this will be ok enough until I find a replacement arch on eBay or something.

I know I could just get a new CPR set but these originals are in great shape minus this one piece.

#355 36 days ago

Definitely not worth buying a whole set if you only have one bad apple. The machine is looking amazing, I don't know that you will even notice it once it is all lit up and playing.

#356 36 days ago
Quoted from pinhead_jack:

Definitely not worth buying a whole set if you only have one bad apple. The machine is looking amazing, I don't know you will even notice one it is all lit up and playing.

I agree with this.

1) The GI lighting under that plastic once installed will be nothing like your picture. It will be less bright and therefore the hot-spots will be lowered.
2) Seeing a different color red through that plastic will draw less attention than white light shining through!

#357 36 days ago

Why not put a red condom under the piece?

#358 36 days ago

So I’ve been having a sound issue.
In the solenoid test I was getting no sound at all. I changed out all the caps and got ROMs but no sound.
Then I realized that the main sound board was missing a processor so I got a new 6802.
Now the noises work but no speech. \

Where did you get your 6802 chip? I get 90% of my stuff from Great Plains but I cant find that chip on the site.

Thank you in advance.

#359 35 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Why not put a red condom under the piece?

Cause I’d rather raw dog it

#360 35 days ago

I cant read what you posted mcpin54

#361 35 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I cant read what you posted mcpin54

Actually now that im on a computer instead of a phone I can see it. Im going to PM you about something.

#362 35 days ago

Wow that’s beautiful. Outstanding job!

#363 32 days ago

Ok pushing myself a little further. I got a logic probe and have no clue what I’m doing.

So an update:
I replaced Caps C1, C4, and C12
I replaced Resistors R12 and R13
8AD21630-AD2B-4133-927E-8AD40C7D00C4 (resized).jpeg
I have the logic probe on IC3 leg 1 and IC2 leg 7 and both stay on Low the whole time the sound cycles.
262D2EA7-D99B-492F-8987-ABDFD62E7A8D (resized).jpeg8D865628-C418-46C4-B901-13F2CCFF6856 (resized).jpeg
I put the probe on the 6821 pin 39 and during the part I should hear speech I get both Hi and Low
7C80EC1F-46A6-4405-9BCB-268494FE9A90 (resized).jpeg
What am I even doing here???

#364 31 days ago

I can't find a schematic of that voice board anywhere.

Can you tell me what numbers are on the two 8 pin chips on the voice board?

#365 31 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I can't find a schematic of that voice board anywhere.
Can you tell me what numbers are on the two 8 pin chips on the voice board?

I have replacement chips ready to go. I was going to shot gun them but I want to actually learn to use a probe. Here are a bunch of pics that I hope help:
88422346-E7F5-445B-A3A3-11D29589EFBF (resized).jpeg0DD41DBB-1C42-408F-893F-E326D4DA1A10 (resized).jpeg566B2B16-AAB0-45AE-869E-827576504F4E (resized).png02EDFD30-62D9-4E83-B748-5ADACF9951FB (resized).png

#366 31 days ago

Thanks, that helps!

You are going to use the logic probe to track the voice signal as it leave the digital to analog converter (IC1) is filtered (IC3) and is mixed with the sound card sounds (1/2 of IC2).

Start the sound test and wait for the part where there should be voice.
Set your logic probe set to TTL (this setting is for most troubleshooting). When you get to measuring the op amps, sometimes the CMOS setting is better at detecting pulsing so try both settings on the logic probe.
Probe pin 3 of IC1 - analog out - you should see pulsing from this pin when the system is playing voice. It should NOT be pulsing when voice is not being played.
If you get pulsing here, you know the digital part of the voice function is working (ROMS, DAC, etc). If no pulsing is here, you should make sure you have activity at pins 9 and 12 of IC1 (clock and data). Both of these should be pulsing when voice is being played.

Assuming you have pulsing at pin 3, move on down the audio path, probing points along the path. Probe pin 2 of IC3 - this is IC3 op amp A's input.

Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp A at pin 1.

Assuming that is pulsing, measure the Input of IC3 op amp B at pin 6.

Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp B at pin 7.

#367 31 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Thanks, that helps!
You are going to use the logic probe to track the voice signal as it leave the digital to analog converter (IC1) is filtered (IC3) and is mixed with the sound card sounds (1/2 of IC2).
Start the sound test and wait for the part where there should be voice.
Set your logic probe set to TTL (this setting is for most troubleshooting). When you get to measuring the op amps, sometimes the CMOS setting is better at detecting pulsing so try both settings on the logic probe.
Probe pin 3 of IC1 - analog out - you should see pulsing from this pin when the system is playing voice. It should NOT be pulsing when voice is not being played.
If you get pulsing here, you know the digital part of the voice function is working (ROMS, DAC, etc). If no pulsing is here, you should make sure you have activity at pins 9 and 12 of IC1 (clock and data). Both of these should be pulsing when voice is being played.
Assuming you have pulsing at pin 3, move on down the audio path, probing points along the path. Probe pin 2 of IC3 - this is IC3 op amp A's input.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp A at pin 1.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the Input of IC3 op amp B at pin 6.
Assuming that is pulsing, measure the output of IC3 op amp B at pin 7.

Im not sure I would call it pulsing (more like just changes to both HI/LO at the same time) but I get some weird activity on IC1 pins 3, 9 , and 12 during the part where there should be voice

on IC3 all the pins just read LOW except pin 8 reads HI, no activity at all through the sound cycle.

#368 31 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Im not sure I would call it pulsing (more like just changes to both HI/LO at the same time) but I get some weird activity on IC1 pins 3, 9 , and 12 during the part where there should be voice
on IC3 all the pins just read LOW except pin 8 reads HI, no activity at all through the sound cycle.

There are 3 posible states the logic probe will read. Hi (with a high tone), Low (with a lower tone) and pusling with a "geiger counter" sound.

To test what each state sounds like, try the pins on one of the ROM chips. You can run this test with anything playing on the sound card (not just voice).
Pin 12 is steady low
Pin 24 is steady hi
Pins 7 and 8 are pulsing - the logic probe will sound differnet based on the type of plusing waveform and frequency of the signal. All you are looking for is a different tone than hi or low plus the yellow pulsing light is lit.

When voice is not playing is pin 3 steady high or low?

IC3 pin 1 shows no pulsing at all? If so, I would replace IC3 next

#369 31 days ago

Don't forget this topic, I struggle with trying to use a probe, usually get frustrated and say F it, I'll just buy a new board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-logic-probes

#370 31 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

There are 3 posible states the logic probe will read. Hi (with a high tone), Low (with a lower tone) and pusling with a "geiger counter" sound.
To test what each state sounds like, try the pins on one of the ROM chips. You can run this test with anything playing on the sound card (not just voice).
Pin 12 is steady low
Pin 24 is steady hi
Pins 7 and 8 are pulsing - the logic probe will sound differnet based on the type of plusing waveform and frequency of the signal. All you are looking for is a different tone than hi or low plus the yellow pulsing light is lit.
When voice is not playing is pin 3 steady high or low?
IC3 pin 1 shows no pulsing at all? If so, I would replace IC3 next

IC3 pin 1 is just a steady low during the whole cycle, the others that should be pulsing on IC1 are behaving like the other chips on pins 7 and 8
going to pull IC3 and give it a shot with a new chip

10
#371 31 days ago

Success!!!

I have voice after replacing IC3
Thanks for your help schwaggs

BFD737A5-2174-4F0E-88F9-2E6CE280480E (resized).jpeg
#372 30 days ago

Got an awesome surprise in the mail today from mcpin54

Can’t wait to frame this baby next to the machine when it’s finished!
3387BD57-03A6-4AC0-B095-2470752FD626 (resized).jpegCC4BF90C-3C75-4B57-977E-D306F3861FFD (resized).jpeg9A88D5A4-2EEC-457E-90A3-CC38E3BCF927 (resized).jpeg6823E7B0-07F9-4592-9D31-BFD42D7A8A7D (resized).jpeg
And a bonus!
D0CB514E-580E-4A37-8C25-504B0C488595 (resized).jpeg17460D73-10B9-4515-AA84-5FF6E0A0E032 (resized).jpeg

#373 30 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Success!!!
I have voice after replacing IC3
Thanks for your help schwaggs
[quoted image]

Awesome, congrats on the fix! I'm happy to have played a tiny part in the restoration!

#374 30 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Awesome, congrats on the fix! I'm happy to have played a tiny part in the restoration!

Big part man, that voice is heard every game!

#375 27 days ago

Awesome job on the restore so far. Beautiful.

1 week later
#376 16 days ago

Finished replacing (shot gunning) the diodes, resistors, and capacitors. I also replaced the GI light sockets and installed the mechs.

4E911F9C-2134-4DEA-94BE-DA2C1742F35F (resized).jpeg
Here we go!
06EB3D23-E04F-41F8-AD72-93D3E9626491 (resized).jpeg

#377 16 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Finished replacing (shot gunning) the diodes, resistors, and capacitors. I also replaced the GI light sockets and installed the mechs.
[quoted image]
Here we go!
[quoted image]

Awesome. This is what happens when you don't have to run league anymore.

#378 16 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Finished replacing (shot gunning) the diodes, resistors, and capacitors. I also replaced the GI light sockets and installed the mechs.
[quoted image]
Here we go!
[quoted image]

nice work! how much time between pic 1 and pic 2 ?

#379 15 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

nice work! how much time between pic 1 and pic 2 ?

About 30 seconds, haha I finished the GI sockets and just tossed the wire harness on it, im in the middle of putting everything in its place and resoldering things back together. Have a lot of personal things going on outside of the hobby that are eating away my time after work so this baby has been on the back burner.

I'll be chiseling away an hour here and an hour there until its done.

#380 15 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

About 30 seconds, haha I finished the GI sockets and just tossed the wire harness on it

lol I should have had a closer look at the picture

#381 14 days ago

Well tragedy strikes the playfield.
While installing the flipper coil mechs I didn’t notice that the pin in the back of the playfield for adjusting flipper height had come out of the playfield.

So as I began to screw in the plate it was lift up by maybe 1/16th an inch and as I tightened the screw it pushed the pin in and raised the clear on the other side causing it to ghost. Maybe the plate was never screwed all the way down to begin with. Who knows but now I have this issue that I can’t unsee. And the flipper doesn’t hide it. It’s too large of a ghost...

Now what do I do?

I guess since it is not over an insert I could exacto the edge of the ghosted area and then eye drop clear in that area then sand it level and polish out. Might be a risky repair but the idea of this playfield having ghosting after everything makes me nauseous.

761B86E2-CDE8-4942-9152-866D61B1ABF4 (resized).jpeg73E185D6-AFFB-471C-A5F7-9336654FC9C7 (resized).jpegAE10B5FE-2519-403A-934E-8BF0904F9208 (resized).jpeg
#382 14 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Well tragedy strikes the playfield.
While installing the flipper coil mechs I didn’t notice that the pin in the back of the playfield for adjusting flipper height had come out of the playfield.
So as I began to screw in the plate it was lift up by maybe 1/16th an inch and as I tightened the screw it pushed the pin in and raised the clear on the other side causing it to ghost. Maybe the plate was never screwed all the way down to begin with. Who knows but now I have this issue that I can’t unsee. And the flipper doesn’t hide it. It’s too large of a ghost...
Now what do I do?
I guess since it is not over an insert I could exacto the edge of the ghosted area and then eye drop clear in that area then sand it level and polish out. Might be a risky repair but the idea of this playfield having ghosting after everything makes me nauseous.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.

I have no advice. Just sympathy. Sorry man.

#383 14 days ago

I think Vid had something in his playfield guide about trying to drip clear in with a syringe to fill the gap and fix the ghosting. Other's may have tried super glue?

#384 14 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Well tragedy strikes the playfield.
While installing the flipper coil mechs I didn’t notice that the pin in the back of the playfield for adjusting flipper height had come out of the playfield.
So as I began to screw in the plate it was lift up by maybe 1/16th an inch and as I tightened the screw it pushed the pin in and raised the clear on the other side causing it to ghost. Maybe the plate was never screwed all the way down to begin with. Who knows but now I have this issue that I can’t unsee. And the flipper doesn’t hide it. It’s too large of a ghost...
Now what do I do?
I guess since it is not over an insert I could exacto the edge of the ghosted area and then eye drop clear in that area then sand it level and polish out. Might be a risky repair but the idea of this playfield having ghosting after everything makes me nauseous.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What a heartbreaker. I feel your pain and sympathize with your "can't unsee" comment.

There was a strategy using UV curable clear to wick under ghosting inserts you might be able to use. Maybe remove the pin, drill the hole out with a bit running in reverse (to not pull up any more clear) to give better access to the space between the clear and playfield to wick in clear or super glue.

Maybe try that and if they fail, chip it off, fill with clear, sand, polish?

#385 14 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Well tragedy strikes the playfield.
While installing the flipper coil mechs I didn’t notice that the pin in the back of the playfield for adjusting flipper height had come out of the playfield.
So as I began to screw in the plate it was lift up by maybe 1/16th an inch and as I tightened the screw it pushed the pin in and raised the clear on the other side causing it to ghost. Maybe the plate was never screwed all the way down to begin with. Who knows but now I have this issue that I can’t unsee. And the flipper doesn’t hide it. It’s too large of a ghost...
Now what do I do?
I guess since it is not over an insert I could exacto the edge of the ghosted area and then eye drop clear in that area then sand it level and polish out. Might be a risky repair but the idea of this playfield having ghosting after everything makes me nauseous.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Pan back on the picture, I have an idea maybe....

#386 14 days ago

The other thing to consider is a flipper bat will be covering 1/2 of that spot plus the other 1/2 will be in it's shadow. It might not be nearly as noticeable once the flippers are installed.

#387 14 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The other thing to consider is a flipper bat will be covering 1/2 of that spot plus the other 1/2 will be in it's shadow. It might not be nearly as noticeable once the flippers are installed.

I had a Sorcerer someone screwed In from bottom. The screw pushed up the mylar and cracked the new clearcoat. It looked Really nasty. Right smack in the middle of the inlane feed to the right flipper. Sanded it smooth and put a Cliffy carbon fiber 3M adhesive backed runners for each side. It worked for me and made me happy...Wouldn’t look too good on a brand new restore I guess...
I sold it and the new owner never noticed....my bad.

#388 14 days ago

I think you can inject some kind of clear with a needle.

Vid does discuss this kind of issue specifically in regard to inserts in the playfield guide.

#389 14 days ago

Super thin CA glue and a syringe will fix this

#390 13 days ago

So I finished installing all mechs, wire harness and soldered everything place.

Put the playfield in and every thing worked perfectly!

Did all the tests for solenoids and switches made a few adjustments and dropped 3 balls in.

Pushed the start button and pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop, pop

The ball eject keeps firing but the ball wont lift to the shooter lane so instead of it popping up into the lane the solenoid kept firing and slamming the ball into the side of the trough and chipped the hell out of the clear.

I quit pinball

DF18FC97-2592-43F4-98AF-D677268FBD2E (resized).jpeg
#391 13 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I quit pinball

That is definitely not fair.

You'll figure something out, and a year from now, it won't even cross your mind.

-mof

#392 13 days ago

Evidently that Firepower was plenty happy in the dumpster. You are almost there--just a little more!

#393 13 days ago

Cannot really see that area anyway.

Just need a little adjustment on the eject solenoid and it will be good.

Does cliffy make a protector for that area?

#394 13 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Cannot really see that area anyway.
Just need a little adjustment on the eject solenoid and it will be good.
Does cliffy make a protector for that area?

I need to look for a cliffy but I don’t understand what to adjust. There really isn’t anything to move

#395 13 days ago

I'm no wiz on any of this--you have done a great job, but if the solenoid keeps firing doesn't whatever tells it to fire have to be stuck on (or is continually open)?

#396 13 days ago

It’s because the ball wont get over the hump. Just keeps trying. Until I use a magnet and get it out. All the electrical components are working properly just mechanically it won’t knock the ball up into the shooter lane.

#397 13 days ago

F715C713-14A0-4DBF-BC1D-5B17CC000142 (resized).jpeg
#398 13 days ago

Now I see. Man, that coil seems awfully weak--or the kicker assembly isn't put together correctly--perhaps?

#399 13 days ago

I agree with billy16, There is nowhere near enough power to send the ball into the shooter lane. It actually "Sounds" like the solenoid is firing with full power but the power seems to be lost in the mechanism.

- Make sure you have the proper spring on the Ball eject assembly. A weak/wrong spring could cause this
- Make sure the linkage is not binding
- check your solenoid voltage (28VDC)

Can you post a video of the eject assembly on the bottom of the playfield?

#400 13 days ago

Can you manually activate it to eject the ball?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 49.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 9.00
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
1,250
Sale Pending!
Gardner, MA
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 11.00
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 14.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
$ 48.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 9.99
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
There are 459 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 10.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside