(Topic ID: 256547)

DUMPSTER FIREpower


By mrm_4

1 year ago



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  • 504 posts
  • 76 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by mrm_4
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There are 504 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 11.
#201 9 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Please don't hope you have the bridges wired up correctly, please verify. You can do lots of damage if they are wired incorrectly (blowing the big blue cap, boards, etc).
On the new bridge rectifiyers, the single lug that is turned differently than the others is the positive lead, the lug diagonally from the postitive lug is the negative. The other 2 lugs go to the transformer.

I’m pretty sure it’s correct. If you look at the pic of the new one it shows the + and the AC and I pulled one leg and moved it to the new at a time.
I actually started with the + then went opposite then left then right.

I’m 86% confident haha
I also used this as a reference but considering there aren’t any green wires on these rectifiers I’m left to assume they meant red.

You know, the completely opposite color on the color wheel...

77B76B3B-77F5-4737-9CB9-B78A3E9AB8F5 (resized).png
#202 9 months ago

Now would be the time to fuse those bridges per Williams recommendation.

#203 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Backglass installed and I alligator clipped a 9v battery to see how the glass looks.[quoted image][quoted image]

Really sharp looking!

#204 9 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Now would be the time to fuse those bridges per Williams recommendation.

Not sure what you mean. Is it still necessary with all new boards?

#205 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Not sure what you mean. Is it still necessary with all new boards?

Yes, the fuses are on the bridge rectifiers' inputs. The danger is if a bridge shorts, the wiring burns up.

#206 9 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yes, the fuses are on the bridge rectifiers' inputs. The danger is if a bridge shorts, the wiring burns up.

Bingo.

Just pull one of the ac lines (does not matter which) off each bridge and utilize a remote fuse holder for each. The bulletin calls for an 8 amp slow blow fuse, I used a 5 amp slow blow as that was the largest I had on hand and there has been no problems on my Blackout which is fully LED'd. One bridge is for lamps, the other for coils if I remember right.

I had panel mounted fuse holders in stock (A common failure item on 60's Ballys) and that is what I used, you could use automotive inline style but they give you no visual of the fuse condition.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_3_-_7#Additional_Fuses

This is also a quick and easy update if you have not purchased new bridges yet.

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/fused-bridge-module-replaces-troublesome-williams-pinball-rectifier-in-backbox
M0ZFNUZFRjZCRDU5RDU1RjNCQkE6MDJjOTY5M2UzMmM3MWUxNmY2NDgzNjU3ZGY5NDEzMjY6Ojo6OjA_1024x1024@2x (resized).jpg

#207 9 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

This is also a quick and easy update if you have not purchased new bridges yet.

Post 197 198 and 201 are about the new rectifiers i installed.

I guess ill look at getting a fuse holder and putting it between the transformer and the rectifier.

#208 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Post 197 198 and 201 are about the new rectifiers i installed.
I guess ill look at getting a fuse holder and putting it between the transformer and the rectifier.

I thought so but would be remiss if I did not mentioned it.

It is an easy update to do, took me less than 10 minutes. I mounted the 2 fuse holders in between the transformer cage and big blue cap. Just pull off one wire each and solder it to the fuse holder and run a new wire from the other fuse terminal to the lug on the bridge that you removed the wire from.

#209 9 months ago

If you're not happy with your touchups, you can give theater gels a try. Just cut and tape a small piece where you need and see how it looks. Cheap and translucent. You can also get some frosted film to go behind that to give a more original look. Never gonna be perfect, but I've always had terrible luck trying to get brushed on paint to look good lit up.

ebay.com link

#210 9 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

If you're not happy with your touchups, you can give theater gels a try. Just cut and tape a small piece where you need and see how it looks. Cheap and translucent. You can also get some frosted film to go behind that to give a more original look. Never gonna be perfect, but I've always had terrible luck trying to get brushed on paint to look good lit up.
ebay.com link

Those are sweet, just bought the 20 piece set!
Thanks

#211 9 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Now would be the time to fuse those bridges per Williams recommendation.

I first learned the requirement from Vid:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945745

#212 9 months ago

Me too.

Blackout is really my first Williams solid state game that I have gone through. New interconnect, caps for the boards, heavy duty diodes on the power board and the fuses. So far its pretty solid, the only issue I have so far is it doesn't like Pintech NVRAM and when I have a free moment will order a different brand and see if I have better luck.

#213 9 months ago

Ace Hardware had some flex tubing and a volume knob for the potentiometer.
I’m super excited that too-many-pins was able to get me a mounting bracket for that part.
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I needed to remake the tilt/sound panel so I used some birch ply I had left over from my flipperless rebuild when I restored my Bally Rocket.

I needed to get everything in place before I cut it down and paint it.
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#214 9 months ago

Was able to recover on the rail.
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Got the botched one back in order and another few coats of clear on both.
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#215 9 months ago

Nice!. This game has great sounds. Have you mentioned what kind of speaker system you'll be using? I played a FP at the Lodi CA event and it had two tall speakers on both sidea of the machine. It sounded awesome. There was a sign that asked, is this machine for sale and his written response was " Are you High? ". That was the nicest FP I've ever played. Such a fun pin.

#216 9 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Nice!. This game has great sounds. Have you mentioned what kind of speaker system you'll be using? I played a FP at the Lodi CA event and it had two tall speakers on both sidea of the machine. It sounded awesome. There was a sign that asked, is this machine for sale and his written response was " Are you High? ". That was the nicest FP I've ever played. Such a fun pin.

I havent really given the sound system much thought other than just getting it to work. I bought a new speaker for it, and replaced all the caps on the board so its getting SOME attention, outside of that I'm probably not going to do much more. I'll just be happy if this thing actually makes the right noises with the shape the sound board is in.

#217 9 months ago

DIODES!!!
Too many of them....
So far all the coils are done. Now I’ve moved on to the switches.
Using the matrixes and the schematics as a checklist. Going to be a lot of little check marks when I’m done.

To be honest, this sucks. By time I get through the switches I’m probably not going to have the motivation to do the lights.

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#218 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

DIODES!!!
Too many of them....
So far all the coils are done. Now I’ve moved on to the switches.
Using the matrixes and the schematics as a checklist. Going to be a lot of little check marks when I’m done.
To be honest, this sucks. By time I get through the switches I’m probably not going to have the motivation to do the lights.[quoted image][quoted image]

You crazy! I have no appetite for this attention to detail.

#219 9 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

You crazy! I have no appetite for this attention to detail.

Just trying to make it solid.

When it’s time to boot this thing up I figure if anything happens electronically I can rule out diodes, resistors, and caps under the playfield. Also, from everything I’ve read these are the culprits for frying new boards so trying to help there. ANDDDDD I want to limit lifting the playfield as much as possible to hopefully help keep down on unnecessary twisting, bending, or stress on the clear coat to avoid ghosting. I have absolutely no faith in clear coat after doing my Mata Hari and all the ghosting that happened, so I’m way too precautious now.

Plus we’re all in isolation anyway. Might as well be productive. So I’m shotgunning everything.

#220 9 months ago

Where did you get the cabinet and head decals?

#221 9 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Where did you get the cabinet and head decals?

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-cabinet-decals/

I’m really happy with them, can’t wait to finish the cab.

#222 9 months ago
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#223 9 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

[quoted image]

I thought about going this route. I’m told that the red bull can of a cap going bad is like 1 in a million though.

#224 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop-cat/pinball-cabinet-decals/
I’m really happy with them, can’t wait to finish the cab.

Thanks. I'm considering restoring my FP and if I do those will get a lot of consideration. I like the alternative artwork.

#225 9 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

[quoted image]

I'm getting serious about doing my Blackout (putting in a little bit of time every day now) and have wondered about the best, easiest to understand, most effective way to address the bridge rectifier issue early Williams pins.. there's this Inkochnito one in the pic, there's a less elaborate one in marketplace for $18 and then there's going to the auto parts store and for about $4 getting the in-line-can't-see-it kind of fuse holder.

#226 9 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I'm getting serious about doing my Blackout (putting in a little bit of time every day now) and have wondered about the best, easiest to understand, most effective way to address the bridge rectifier issue early Williams pins.. there's this Inkochnito one in the pic, there's a less elaborate one in marketplace for $18 and then there's going to the auto parts store and for about $4 getting the in-line-can't-see-it kind of fuse holder.

I used these from PBR, I keep them on hand for early Bally pins. Was a hot ten minutes or less to install on my Blackout.

e763786ed43768fe2f5ce90f9e2c8e460cb36646 (resized).jpg

#227 9 months ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I'm getting serious about doing my Blackout (putting in a little bit of time every day now) and have wondered about the best, easiest to understand, most effective way to address the bridge rectifier issue early Williams pins.. there's this Inkochnito one in the pic, there's a less elaborate one in marketplace for $18 and then there's going to the auto parts store and for about $4 getting the in-line-can't-see-it kind of fuse holder.

Quoted from gdonovan:

I used these from PBR, I keep them on hand for early Bally pins.[quoted image]

As soon as the rest of my stuff ships I'll give you an update of what I got going on in the way of the Cap/Rectifier/Fuses in the back box. I'll hoping to get it situated tomorrow.

#228 9 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I used these from PBR, I keep them on hand for early Bally pins. Was a hot ten minutes or less to install on my Blackout.
[quoted image]

Until just this second I had forgotten that I ordered something pretty similar from Pinball Life for my current two and the next one.

#229 9 months ago

So I was fixated so much on a digikey order with coindoor button caps that I didn’t realize I got 3 other packages today. And one of them had these fuse holders I ordered, not expecting them to be this bulky.

Oh well I made them work and even created labels.

There’s where I landed with the rectifiers and fuses after your guys’ feedback.

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#230 9 months ago

And with this last decal and wing nut I believe the backbox is complete.

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#231 9 months ago

I laid 2 cans of SprayMax on the playfield and it didn’t bury the waterslides like I thought it would.

Not sure if this will sand level and still have clear on the waterslide afterward or if I need more clear

I’m not sure how others clear their playfields using like 2 or 3 cans. I’m 8 cans in and it still looks like it needs more.
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#232 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

So I was fixated so much on a digikey order with coindoor button caps that I didn’t realize I got 3 other packages today. And one of them had these fuse holders I ordered, not expecting them to be this bulky.
Oh well I made them work and even created labels.
There’s where I landed with the rectifiers and fuses after your guys’ feedback.[quoted image]

I get my fuse holders from digikey. Might save you some shipping costs next time? Here's a 5 brick but you can order singles and up to 12 I think.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/03540805ZXGY/F4930-ND/553996

#233 9 months ago

So after drying it seems to have leveled a little but all the areas with decals are definitely raised so the clear will need sanded down.

I’m really hoping this bump on the top of the 6 Arrow is just a piece of dust that landed perfectly on the edge of the decal and not the tip of the actual decal. I cant tell. I was watching every insert like a hawk as I laid layer after layer and didn’t see any curling or lifting so who knows.

I'll sand it and add a few more coats.
091D0D5F-2D7E-48ED-B608-31895B2B9503 (resized).jpeg

#234 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

So after drying it seems to have leveled a little but all the areas with decals are definitely raised so the clear will need sanded down.
I’m really hoping this bump on the top of the 6 Arrow is just a piece of dust that landed perfectly on the edge of the decal and not the tip of the actual decal. I cant tell. I was watching every insert like a hawk as I laid layer after layer and didn’t see any curling or lifting so who knows.
I should’ve just bought a damn hardtop. This is the stupidest thing I’ve wasted time on.[quoted image]

Pinball restoration is about the journey, not the destination. Learning is frustrating.

I really want to play this thing and I think our stay-at-Home will be lifted May 1st. You've got a week to get this journey over with.

#235 9 months ago

That looks really good, don't give up now! One more round of sanding and another coat of clear or keep sanding with higher grit paper and polish the shine back.

#236 9 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

That looks really good, don't give up now! One more round of sanding and another coat of clear or keep sanding with higher grit paper and polish the shine back.

Im going to wet sand with 1500 tomorrow. If the clear coat levels then I’ll just step up to 3000 and then polish.

If I can’t get it to level and start sanding into the decals then I’m going to need more cans.

I just can’t believe laying down 2 cans didn’t bury these enough to be level.

#237 9 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I thought about going this route. I’m told that the red bull can of a cap going bad is like 1 in a million though.

More than anything, the inline fuses was sale For me...this was corrected in newer machines. I was Sold on it...LOL

#238 8 months ago

Painted a few parts.
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I guess that’s a somewhat better looking tilt/sound panel
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#239 8 months ago

I like the red background

#240 8 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I like the red background

Thanks!
I’m not a fan of yellow so there will be a lot of emphasis on the black and red.

#241 8 months ago

Gonna do the same, nice job!

#242 8 months ago

Lock down bar receiver is ready.

94B5308C-D7A2-4290-8ECC-33BC64A9A46E (resized).jpegCC3A61B5-C621-4C7A-A93D-0A831D5A27A4 (resized).jpeg
#243 8 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Lock down bar receiver is ready.[quoted image][quoted image]

Isn't "install 3 balls" what the Lord said when he created you?

#244 8 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Isn't "install 3 balls" what the Lord said when he created you?

You’re done, go wait in the car!

#245 8 months ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Isn't "install 3 balls" what the Lord said when he created you?

Quoted from mrm_4:

You’re done, go wait in the car!

Screenshot_20200430-234048~2 (resized).png
#246 8 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Lock down bar receiver is ready.[quoted image][quoted image]

Where you get the decals?!

#247 8 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Where you get the decals?!

Im going to make a spaceship decal so I'll capture the process I use and post it

#248 8 months ago

First I make my image or use something already made like the pinball rebel stuff.
CC01C1E4-6D2F-45D0-BD2F-F9F143A5124B (resized).jpeg
Print it out on regular paper, photo paper, or card stock depending on what it is.
275DE560-1CBB-4B89-A467-5AEA5D21351C (resized).jpeg
Do a rough cut out.
5D452A4B-3001-44BF-97A4-AE4169B6CDFF (resized).jpeg
I use this product for the backing.
amazon.com link »

I peel one side of the adhesive sheet and stick my paper to it. If it’s going to be touched a lot by a ball or people I’ll cover it in mylar.
43E60E01-DF8C-4E9B-9225-A901C6CA3517 (resized).jpeg

Then I cut it out with a close eye and steady hand.
2D7FEBF3-FDBD-495D-9620-CE5C34D24152 (resized).jpeg
This particular one I’m thinking for the top target.
09B67C06-6737-4248-A668-01AD0A499A66 (resized).jpeg
Not sure if I like it. You guys can decide if it works or not.

45AC2B79-E138-4F86-978F-D72D74D80852 (resized).jpeg

#249 8 months ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Not sure if I like it. You guys can decide if it works or not.

I do like it. Looks great.

#250 8 months ago
Quoted from BKT2AF:

I do like it. Looks great.

Thanks, I think I’m going to use it.

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