(Topic ID: 256547)
Linked Games
Firepower
Williams, 1980
Topic Gallery
I think it’s true patina by definition, not the over glorified patina that pinheads use to describe old dirty machines 
Time to start tearing into this mess.
It’s not too hard to take apart when almost every screw head brakes off...
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Quoted from mrm_4:I’m new to these early Williams solid states, I’m going to look up some blackout game play.
I have a Blackout, fun game.
BO_OVERALL_NE (resized).jpgNot too much to report. Everything I need to do involves sanding and spray painting outside and the temperatures suck still.
I did however make a major push forward with the lockdown bar.
Days of evaporust and grinding rust off with a spinning wire brush in the drill. Pitting is terrible though.
I’ll probably paint it with the 2in1 Filler and Primer a few times then paint the main piece and the sliding bar retainer piece black or red.
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So yesterday I had to rip new rails with a jigsaw because of the odd 1&1/8th width. I went slower than hell and they actually turned out pretty good. I’m going to black lacquer them. Used the Rustoleum lacquer on the smaller rail at the shooter lane as a test. Only did one surface to keep from getting carried away.
Damn this stuff is nice!
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Glenelg, MD
I think after 3 machines I finally learned how to spray paint.
Totally changed my method, I follow more of how auto painting is done. (I think)
In an hour I primed, painted, and cleared my first leg.
Started with the primer obviously, laying 3 very thin even coats 2 minutes apart. I then set my timer for 15 minutes.
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Then did the same process with the black.
After all the coats were applied I waited 15 minutes I applied clear.
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2 light passes, waited 10 minutes, 2 more light passes, waited 10 minutes then 4 light passes to finish with an even wet look and no runs and bam! I’m happy.
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Excuse the ladder and coat hanger assembly.
Looks great! Years ago I struggled painting aprons and trim trying to find a black spray option that would lay down nicely and look wet smooth and glossy. Then someone here suggested rustolium black lacquer, which I tried and it worked really well with no drama. I’m actually surprised such a good product is still available lol.
Quoted from PNBLWZD:Looks great! Years ago I struggled painting aprons and trim trying to find a black spray option that would lay down nicely and look wet smooth and glossy. Then someone here suggested rustolium black lacquer, which I tried and it worked really well with no drama. I’m actually surprised such a good product is still available lol.
I typically would use a gloss for the apron, but because of the sheen of this decal i went satin and it actually matched up perfectly. I used the Rustoleum black lacquer spray on one of the rails to test it out and its amazing. I'll probably finish the rails tonight after work.
I figured I might as well get the lockdown coat of clear on the playfield today.
Built my trusty paint booth in the garage and got the pf leveled.
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Here was my approach:
Laid the first thin coat in vertical passes spacing out in five sweeps back and forth 2 times then set my timer at 10 minutes.
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Did the same process but horizontal sweeps twice laying a second really thin mist. Set timer 10 minutes.
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The third coat was heavier this time I did the same passes but just did it twice both ways. This just about emptied the first can.
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Same process I waited 10 minutes and did the same light mist sweeps but since I was in the heavy stage I did the passes twice.
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And the after waiting my final 10 minutes I did my 5th and final passes almost emptying the can.
And the results look like awful!
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But it’s ok I’m going to let this sit a week and then I have to sand everything level and level inserts. Not sure why the planet reacted like it did.
I have 4 more cans so I’m sure the next application this thing is going to be back on track.
Now before anyone asks, I cleaned the playfield with scented hand soap and a can of pledge. So I’m not sure why it fish eyed on me. 
I wet sanded the whole playfield with 400 grit and wiped it up with 91 % alcohol and then cleaned it all again with naphtha after airbrushing it. 
Quoted from mrm_4:I figured I might as well get the lockdown coat of clear on the playfield today.
Built my trusty paint booth in the garage and got the pf leveled.
Here was my approach:
Laid the first thin coat in vertical passes spacing out in five sweeps back and forth 2 times then set my timer at 10 minutes.
Did the same process but horizontal sweeps twice laying a second really thin mist. Set timer 10 minutes.
The third coat was heavier this time I did the same passes but just did it twice both ways. This just about emptied the first can.
Same process I waited 10 minutes and did the same light mist sweeps but since I was in the heavy stage I did the passes twice.
And the after waiting my final 10 minutes I did my 5th and final passes almost emptying the can.
And the results look like shit!
But it’s ok I’m going to let this sit a week and then I have to sand everything level and level inserts. Not sure why the planet reacted like it did.
I have 4 more cans so I’m sure the next application this thing is going to be back on track.
Now before anyone asks, I cleaned the playfield scented hand soap and a can of pledge. So I’m not sure why it fish eyed on me. I wet sanded the whole playfield and wiped it up with 91 % alcohol and then cleaned it all again after airbrushing it with naphtha. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Dust in the air, or on the Pf, likely in the air,
Also, naptha is best to use to clean the surface just before clearing, I've also used a spray cleaner with vinegar in it when In a pinch
Quoted from mrm_4:I figured I might as well get the lockdown coat of clear on the playfield today.
Built my trusty paint booth in the garage and got the pf leveled.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Here was my approach:
Laid the first thin coat in vertical passes spacing out in five sweeps back and forth 2 times then set my timer at 10 minutes.
[quoted image]
Did the same process but horizontal sweeps twice laying a second really thin mist. Set timer 10 minutes.
[quoted image]
The third coat was heavier this time I did the same passes but just did it twice both ways. This just about emptied the first can.
[quoted image]
Same process I waited 10 minutes and did the same light mist sweeps but since I was in the heavy stage I did the passes twice.
[quoted image]
And the after waiting my final 10 minutes I did my 5th and final passes almost emptying the can.
And the results look like shit!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
But it’s ok I’m going to let this sit a week and then I have to sand everything level and level inserts. Not sure why the planet reacted like it did.
I have 4 more cans so I’m sure the next application this thing is going to be back on track.
Now before anyone asks, I cleaned the playfield with scented hand soap and a can of pledge. So I’m not sure why it fish eyed on me. :S)I wet sanded the whole playfield and wiped it up with 91 % alcohol and then cleaned it all again after airbrushing it with naphtha.
Watch the Cary Hardy videos on youtube of his Hook clear coat. He ran into that exact problem (but worse).
Goto the ~1:00 min mark:
Quoted from dc2010:Dust in the air, or on the Pf, likely in the air,
Also, naptha is best to use to clean the surface just before clearing, I've also used a spray cleaner with vinegar in it when In a pinch
Yeah naphtha is what I wiped it with. Other than the possibility of dust,I’m wondering if something screwy was going on with the 2nd can. Everything was fine til those last 2 coats with that can. And the first pass with the new can I started from the bottom up. Who knows....
Quoted from mbwalker:Watch the Cary Hardy videos on youtube of his Hook clear coat. He ran into that exact problem (but worse).
Goto the ~1:00 min mark:
Sometimes things just happens. Strange that it’s only the planet though. Everything else looks great. I’ll have to sand it down and try again because I’m not able to just drench the playfield like he did to recover.
Quoted from mrm_4:Sometimes shit just happens. Strange that it’s only the planet though. Everything else looks great. I’ll have to sand it down and try again because I’m not able to just drench the playfield like he did to recover.
If I recall correctly, he fills in some spots by hand. Any chance you can do that?
Quoted from mbwalker:If I recall correctly, he fills in some spots by hand. Any chance you can do that?
So I’m going to let this set for a week then I’m going to block sand it level. My plan was to get a different “non aerosol” clear to drop into the low parts of the inserts. Depending on how bad this looks after I sand I might need to do that in all of these spots (which sounds horrible).
But like I mentioned. I still have 4 cans to go. If I can’t get this fixed in 4 cans then Outside Edge will get some more of my money for a hardtop.
Quoted from mrm_4:After a couple of hours it dry to the touch and looks awesome (except the planet)
Keeping faith that I’ll be able to have a decent playfield when it’s done.
[quoted image]
You can recover!
Let it sit for a week, then do as you said, block it, clean it , re-shoot but heavier in the spots that are bad
Quoted from TheCapn:A week is overkill for leveling the PF. You should be able to sand a layer every 24 hours. This will open the pores up and give the clear the ability to cure faster. It's easier to sand while the clear is softer too.
so if i sand tonight, should I clear it again saturday to give the newly exposed clear a chance to cure. I just dont want to rush it and get major wrinkling from being too aggressive. Thats something ive battled in the past that drives me nuts.
Quoted from mrm_4:Or sand it tonight and let it sit a week then do the next application?
I know with 2PAC, once the odor is gone, with the ole sniffer right up next to it, you are OK to proceed, not sure with this stuff though.
When in doubt, start under the apron, see how it does, then decide.
Now that you have a good base coat. I would sand a layer every 24 hours until you are level. You need to get a 2PAC and an eye dropper for getting those inserts filled. Looks like the clear had to fill the cavity around them. You need these cavities filled before you can apply your next coat. The good news is that you have a base coat. It may look rough, but can easily be fixed. Focus on getting those insert areas level with the rest of the playfield, first.
Quoted from TheCapn:Now that you have a good base coat. I would sand a layer every 24 hours until you are level. You need to get a 2PAC and an eye dropper for getting those inserts filled. Looks like the clear had to fill the cavity around them. You need these cavities filled before you can apply your next coat. The good news is that you have a base coat. It may look rough, but can easily be fixed. Focus on getting those insert areas level with the rest of the playfield, first.
OK easy enough, I guess the opportunity to misinterpret direction here is what is considered a "layer".
Initially my thought was
1. sand with a block so the sunken areas are easily seen because they'll still be shiny.
2. Individually sand the pits so they have tooth also then let it sit
3. Lay down another can a week later, then begin the eye dropper process to fill in what 2 applications wont cover
4. Then sand truly level so i can apply water slides on the inserts
5. Then final layers of clear
When we say sand a layer every 24 hours, are you suggesting sand a certain number of passes or depth, wait 24 then sand again, wait 24 sand again... until we hit a type of goal?
'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.
Quoted from TheCapn:'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.
Thanks man
A true classic. Among Flash, Gorgar, Firepower, and Black Knight, Firepower is to me clearly the best. Love that you're bringing this one back.
btw I have EXACTLY that same Kenmore dryer. It was my mom's. In 40 years all we've done is change a belt. Indestructible.
Quoted from RoyGBev:A true classic. Among Flash, Gorgar, Firepower, and Black Knight, Firepower is to me clearly the best. Love that you're bringing this one back.
btw I have EXACTLY that same Kenmore dryer. It was my mom's. In 40 years all we've done is change a belt. Indestructible.
Yep I changed the belt about 17 years ago. Things is a tank!
Alright, let me start off by saying I’ve truly been dealing with OCD since I can remember and I am very analytical and calculated but remembering the D in OCD is Disorder reminds me why my brain become irrational when I obsess and having addiction issues really makes life fun.
Yesterday I decided to sand the playfield like advised. No problem but instead of walking away and finding another piece to work on I decided to go check out the SprayMax club thread and read up on how people overcome issues. One post in particular shows the same effect I had then 18 hours later the playfield was sanded and coated again with amazing results.
***OCD BRAIN TRIGGERED***
Now prior to 7 months ago I would just have some bourbon as a distraction but I’m now 7 months sober and I’m not going to let a resto push me off the wagon. So I said “Screw this I’m spraying!”
What I learned.
I still hate myself for not being in control of myself
And SprayMax is basically idiot proof. Product is amazing!
I added several more coats to flood the problem area with no sign of wrinkling and then I sprayed the little bit I had left in the cap and dripped it in the grooves around the inserts on the lower half of the playfield. Checked it this morning and WOW!
The pics are in order of progression.
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Quoted from TheCapn:'Layers' is subjective. I would use 5-600 grit and give the top coat a good scrubbing once over. This opens the pores and takes off some clear for each time you sand every 24 hours.
As it sits now. You need to sand in and around the inserts well.
Drop clear into the opening cavities around the inserts.
let the clear set and then sand the inserts to match the rest of the playfield.
you want that playfield very smooth for the water slides to tack down. So, once you are level all over - start sanding up to minimum 2K grit at least on the inserts. Apply your water slides - 24 hours later you can attempt your next coat. I would also get a water slide test going with your clear. If the clear is too hot it will give you negative results. If you can set up a test piece and see how your clear reacts to the water slides. You will save yourself some possible work down the road.
Sorry I went against your advice, now that I got the playfield in a spot that made me sleep better I’m going to begin the sanding process you advised and drip the low areas of the inserts to get things ready for the water slides.
Quoted from mrm_4:Alright, let me start off by saying I’ve truly been dealing with OCD since I can remember and I am very analytical and calculated but remembering the D in OCD is Disorder reminds me why my brain become irrational when I obsess and having addiction issues really makes life fun.
Yesterday I decided to sand the playfield like advised. No problem but instead of walking away and finding another piece to work on I decided to go check out the SprayMax club thread and read up on how people overcome issues. One post in particular shows the same effect I had then 18 hours later the playfield was sanded and coated again with amazing results.
***OCD BRAIN TRIGGERED***
Now prior to 7 months ago I would just have some bourbon as a distraction but I’m now 7 months sober and I’m not going to let a resto push me off the wagon. So I said “Fuck this I’m spraying!”
What I learned.
I still hate myself for not being in control of myself
And SprayMax is basically idiot proof. Product is amazing!
I added several more coats to flood the problem area with no sign of wrinkling and then I sprayed the little bit I had left in the cap and dripped it in the grooves around the inserts on the lower half of the playfield. Checked it this morning and WOW!
The pics are in order of progression.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow! 
Sometimes a little OCD can be a good thing. 
Quoted from mbwalker:Wow!
Sometimes a little OCD can be a good thing.
Thanks
Lol yeah...
I have about 300 posts on this site that I’ve made saying otherwise, glad I finally got a “win”
Quoted from mrm_4:I have about 300 posts on this site that I’ve made saying otherwise, glad I finally got a “win”
Sometimes successfully fixing a mistake can feel better than getting it right the first time. Looks good!
Apron is good to go even though I’m not a fan of this decal. I had to exacto the red out and make a lot of adjustments to what was sent and even had to create a triangle decal for the right flipper directions. Come on man, how hard is it to scan an apron and clean up the lines and colors. I never understood these repo companies that miss details like that.
Obviously used beatmaster created cards.
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Quoted from mrm_4:progression
I can't tell how all the insert issues turned out from the final progression photos.
Quoted from mof:I can't tell how all the insert issues turned out from the final progression photos.
Inserts weren’t really the issue I went into this knowing they would have low spots and circular pits from the edges. I still need to sand and drip clear into about half the inserts and do more sanding.
This is what freaked me out.
Thursday night
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Friday night
54CAB628-9FE3-4010-9358-896790E0F10D (resized).jpegQuoted from Da-Shaker:Looks amazing!
Thanks
Still have a longgggg way to go but little by little it’s getting done.
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