OP

Quoted from DumbAss:

The satellite displays are green because those were the ones I had lying around that I could plug in to test with

OP

Quoted from DumbAss:

I do have a small surprise coming in the next few weeks. That's all that I will say about this at the moment.

OP

Quoted from DumbAss:

Wow. It seems the word "unprecedented" is being used a lot but the Pacific Northwest really did just experience an unprecedented heat wave. I was in the region for the previous all time high of 103F in July 2009. I remember that day. The region just experienced three straight 100F+ days.
I have an external thermometer (not super accurate but reasonable), an internal thermostat and an upstairs thermometer.

Saturday was 103F outside.
Sunday was 107F outside.
Monday (the peak) was 112F outside. Inside peaked at 96F main level and 99.99F upstairs.

Needless to say no soldering in that kind of heat! In fact ... no work at all in that kind of heat. Sit in front of the fan and binge watch TV. A welcome break from work but comfort was lacking.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/project-pinball-auction-2021#post-6357584
It's been quite a few weeks and I had to get them built after completing some other builds from weeks before the board fabrication order. Thanks to Brad jellikit for his work at Project Pinball. I am very happy to be able to contribute! If anyone has items (or perhaps services) to contribute I am sure that Brad would love to hear from you.

OP

Quoted from DumbAss:

Not quite there yet. Got some more answers tonight and there will be one more post after this one with some images of those boards.
I want to try to get resolution and tie up all the loose ends before the break because it's likely I will forget if I don't do it now. I have one more experiment that does not work as planned and I need to do some more reading and learning before I can get it to work. It involves analog to digital conversion and from what I have read analog circuits are much harder to design than digital circuits. That is definitely the case from my experience. Someone like me that has extensive digital experience (software but some hardware) ... analog is a whole new world.
I finally got around to uploading the speaker pop eliminator comparison videos.
Speaker Pop (normal behavior):

Speaker Pop Eliminator (modified behavior):

It can be heard but it's much more pronounced in person. The pop on power off on this Terminator 2 is LOUD.
This system:

Works for any of WPC-89, WPC-DCS and WPC-95.
Consists of three boards per machine.

AC power tap.
Speaker output intercept.
Relay performing the actual intercept.

Requires constructing wire cables between the component boards (0.156 pins and housings) - no soldering.
Does not modify the original machine wiring in any way - i.e. non-invasive and is completely reversible.

OP

Quoted from DumbAss:

First up ... the most important thing. I learned over the course of a career that if you write long communications then ALWAYS put the most important things at the very top of the communication - including things like summaries. People generally have poor attention spans and only read one or two paragraphs before being overcome by "TL;DR".
NOTE: I will still be connected while away but response time may be slower than normal. There is a time difference (relative to the US) as well. It's supposed to be time away to "recharge" but I also want to make sure that anybody who has issues with my boards is not left hanging without support. In general the boards are 95%+ true the original Williams schematic and component references so those original schematics should work. If you do have a question feel free to ask (or post as I will be reading the forum occasionally). However if you're waiting for a response from me directly then I ask you to please be patient. Thank you.
So here's what I got resolution on last night.
The tieback modification implemented as pass through (tap) boards and a wire cable between the boards.

Terminator 2
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Star Trek TNG (shown in an Indiana Jones but the principle is what applies)
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The physical fit works but it may require some orientation changes for better efficiency. The silkscreen on the power tap (black) board is incorrect but the electrical function is correct.
These are the boards that implement this - including the System 11 diode connector board for the LED flasher modification to the Auxiliary Power board. The wire cables I built are also shown. Typically a wire from the power source to the tieback connector. For some it may be multiple wires but the wires can be daisy chained (in parallel) at the drive connector.
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And finally I had these boards made about a month or so ago but there was an issue. I rushed it. That's usually when I make mistakes.

The transmitter board is simple and works.
The receiver board has an error. The order of the row inputs is correct but does not correspond to the correct phototransistor. Therefore it does not produce the correct position in the ball trough so the game gets VERY confused. I built a translator cable to re-order the rows and everything works so I need to fix the ordering in the schematic and re-layout the receiver board. Thankfully I didn't have to cut any board traces and such. The translator cable allowed an easy way to test for any potential fix.

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Wishing everybody a happy holiday season!