I’m just about done with assembly of the WPC Sound board. It was not difficult to put together at all (with reasonable soldering skills).

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It’s alive!!! I dropped my T2 ROMs in, changed the jumpers to Group 1 and plugged it in. Works FLAWLESSLY!!!!

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Now that I've had a chance to get over the elation of having the WPC89 sound board (that I built) work. I thought I'd try to capture my experience with the build so that others might benefit. First, it goes with out saying that DumbAss made it very easy to complete. My first task was locating the parts. I started with mouser.com (I order from them frequently for other hobby things). Their website can be daunting if you don't know specifically what parts you are looking for. I made a "project" of the parts for this board that I will share freely with those that want it. There are a few parts that are more difficult to locate. DumbAss was very helpful with finding sources for these (utsource.net, greatplainselectronics.com, kasarcade.com, arcadeshop.com and taydaelectroncis.com). Working from the Bill of Materials (BOM) provided by @dumbass. I assembled the mouser project file and specific URLs for the parts mouser didn't have into a spread sheet (also freely available to those that want it). DumbAss double checked the components I chose to make sure I hadn't miss-specified something (form factor, part tolerance etc.). He quickly made a few corrections and suggestions. I made the updates to my spreadsheet and ordered the parts. It took a couple of weeks for everything to arrive. I started board assembly with the the various chip sockets (sourced from taydaelectronics.com) The sockets fit one of two ways so make sure the small notch in the socket is alligned with a similar notch in the white silkscreen. Next came the smaller capacitors (ceramic type with axial leads) and resistors (I used carbon film resistors). I then placed the diodes (X6), LEDs and the crystal oscillators. I have to mention that the location of every part is included on the white silkscreen markings of the board (i.e. 473 for 47kOhm resistor) along with a symbol denoting the part type (i.e. rectangle for resistor, oval for ceramic capacitor, circles for electrolytic capacitors etc.). Next came the connectors/headers for wire connections followed by the larger electrolytic capacitors, linear regulators and amplifier with heat sink. I had to "adjust" the leads of the amplifier I ordered so that it would stand straight up in holes provided and attach to the heat sink vertically (not difficult but worth noting).
After all of the soldering was complete, I placed all of the various ICs (Integrated Circuit)/Chips in their respective sockets. Each socket is clearly labled and cross referenced to the BOM so it is easy to figure out where they each go. The board was completely assembled at this point. I'm building this board for a TAF scratch build so to test, I I took the sound board out of my T2, removed the ROMs and placed them in the appropriate sockets (they are labeled) on the new board. At this point I had to ask DumbAss some questions about the jumper settings. After his explanation, it was perfectly clear what they are for. The new board has two built in configurations for 2 groups of WPC89 sound boards. The machines for each group are listed as part of the white silkscreen on the board. I had configured my board for Group 2 (ie TAF). When I put the T2 ROMs on it I had the change it to Group 1 by placing the 3 jumpers in a row beside the silk screened "Group 1". The other jumpers enable or disable the 3 LED circuits or CPU volume control (I can't imagine anything other than CPU being set for this).
Once the new board was connected in the T2 backbox. I crossed my fingers and fired it up.....Bing! successful boot!!...next came a game...Volume and clarity were fantastic (I think better than the old board I had in it). I was able to control volume from buttons inside the coin door as expected and the sound+music tests ran flawlessly.

In the end I would encourage anyone wanting to try to build one of these to do it. DumbAss (or myself for the WPC89 sound board) is available to help along the way. The only pre-requisites is having a decent soldering iron/station, good solder and the willingness to try. If you've never soldered before, I don't believe it would be that hard to learn from youtube videos and the like.

If you have questions about my experience feel free to contact me.

I completed assembly of the MPU board. DumbAss boards make it virtually impossible to mess up. NVRAM module is in place but is waiting for delivery of the chip. On to testing... this weekend.

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I can provide a single data point for the SND and MPU boards from mouser.com. The majority of the parts for my both boards came from mouser.com. The bill for materials was $86.58 + $7.99 shipping.

There were a few things (older chips) that had to be purchased from other vendors. These totaled around $50 +/- including shipping.

$55 for SND board + $94.57 mouser + $50 other = $199.57. If you can find one, a WPC89 sound board goes for ~$300 and Pinsound+ is $350-$370.

I saved at least $100 by building my own. Plus...it was fun to do

My MPU mouser bill was $38.35 + $7.99 shipping. The ASIC came from Marco for $60. Various other components totaled ~$50 (like the SND).

Total: $55 for board + $46.34 mouser + $60 ASIC + $50 other = $156.34. MPUs with ASIC and game ROM are ~$250 so I saved $100 on this one building it myself.

disclaimer: this is my own experience and prices fluctuate so this is just an example.

Testing of this board went well (eventually). With some troubleshooting help from @dumbass, I found that I received a bad 68B09E microprocessor. I replaced it with a known good one (temporarily) and the board booted just fine!

Now on to the power driver board (eventually).

Thanks for the help @dumbass!

I made a video of DumbAss SND and MPU boards installed in my T2 running TAF ROMs these things work great!

I have and will share it. I've built "projects" on mouser for the MPU, SND and PWR boards. I've built all 3 from these projects. There are some components that you have to get from elsewhere. I used taydaelectronics.com and utsource.com for the items mouser didn't have.

Hang in there. I, for one, appreciate all of your efforts!

I can attest to this wholeheartedly!!!

I sure hope it goes well for you!. I get my second does tomorrow afternoon.

I had an idea....but it may not be something you are interested in since it would likely only be for builders. Since WPC transformers can be so hard to find, have you considered developing a WPC PDB that omits all of the AC rectification circuitry but would allow plugging in DC Power supplies? My thought is a stack of DC PS's for each of the required voltage/power inputs could be used in place of the multi tap x-frmr. This would leave only a 6V AC one required for GI?

Another option would be to add headers your current design that would allow the bypass of the rectification circuits.

Just a thought...Let the beatings begin .

This is why I will always use DumbAss for my replacement boards. Unbelievably helpful guy!

Glad you were able to get a break and see family. Welcome back!

My Thanksgiving project made possible by @dumbass. Still waiting for ROM and security chip delivery and one tiny cap. This going into a MM scratch build. Thank you DumbAss !!

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