I too would be interested in buying boards. Especially any test rigs.
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I am absolutely in awe of all the work you do! When you get back from Holiday, I plan to order your Diagnostic boards.
Does anyone have a mouser or digikey cart for the Sys11 MPU? I am slowly working on making one, but at this rate it is going to take me a week!
Quoted from DumbAss:Yes. Use messaging (PM).
I can try to build one for you in spare time (time where there is not enough of it for board building). You might have a complete one before I do. An example of issue I have with building carts is:
%Clipped%Yes. Lots of reasons why a cart is not ideal.
For those building carts and you are unsure about components, feel free to share the cart and I will take a (quick) look and see if the components are compatible.
I get it and I do appreciate it. I have spent several hours so far, building a list on Digikey for the portable tester boards. So far they had everything but the 8x8 LED grids and the relays. I haven't done the connectors yet. When I do, I will share the list on here.
Here is my BOM list for the complete portable tester boards on Digikey. It should be everything, minus the relays and the 8x8 LED grid. Those had to be sourced thru alibaba and Arrow. There are a lot of extra LEDs in my list, because I needed them for other stuff and I generally added an extra of each component, just in case.
https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/HLYGLC6YVJ It isn't cheap, but you can get most everything in one place. Comes to about $250.
If there was ever any doubt as to the value in buying a board prebuilt from DumbAss , let me belay those concerns.
I’m building a Sys11 MPU, I also have two built ones ordered as well… but I’m building this one and have been keeping track of my time involvement and my costs.
It took me 6.15 hours to source all the components. The components cost about $300 with shipping. The cost is approximate because I ordered extras of some of the common components that I use regularly and didn’t order a few that I had a lot of in stock.
I’m about halfway through building the board and have a solid five hours tied up so far in soldering.
If it wasn’t for all of j_m_ ‘s hard work building the diagrams, it would be a LOT more time than that!!
Now for my question, I want to build this as a selectable MPU, so it can be A B or C. That way it will make a good test board for my shop. Do I need the digit expansion board or anything else?
A251E711-079B-4E50-A816-C178DD159FA0 (resized).jpeg1D99F01B-56E5-46BD-A156-F12556FDD57F (resized).jpegEBD662E8-80C7-485C-AA97-3B7CA87F773B (resized).jpegDAD940F7-4C86-45F7-92BF-B2B1B45DF545 (resized).jpegQuoted from ChrisHibler:RandyW
Digit expansion board?
Perhaps you meant sound expansion board. Just a guess.
I'm sure DumbAss will be along soon to address the question.
Quoted from the documentation.
Consequently, there exists the following configuration options:
FIXED System 11N: Install digit daughter board and W201 as “disable”. Omit Q209 and R209. Optionally install or omit LED2.
FIXED System 11A/11B/11C: Install LED2 and W201 as “enable”. Omit Q209 and R209.
SELECT: Install LED2, Q209 and R209. Omit W201. Digit daughter board in=System 11N, Digit daughter board out = System 11A/11B/11C.
Install EITHER W201 or Q209/R209. Do NOT install both W201 and Q209/R209.
When building System 11N, installing the select configuration is the most versatile. This allows the board to be used as 11N or 11A. When building System 11A/11B/11C, installing the fixed configuration is advised because the digit daughter board is not included.
The ability to select A B or C is extremely valuable to me atm. I have several System 11's to diagnose.
Here is where I am after 10.5 hours of placing and soldering. es, I am doing stuff out of order. I wanted a challenge, so I have been doing a "Blind Box Build" Where all the individual bags of components are put into a big box. Whatever I pull out, is what I place and solder. It is like a big jigsaw puzzle!
Now for my question, on the Sys11 board, Rev 10, it says on the board that R82-R89 should be a 270 ohm, 5w resistor. But in the build sheet it says a 0ohm resistor. Which one is correct?
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