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I think it would be great to have opto tester, solenoid and switch tester boards for WPC/System 11 games. I bring in games to repair for people, and it sure would be nice to have another arrow in the quiver.
Currently working on WPC89 (Indiana Jones), Earthshaker (System 11c?), Bride of Pinbot (System 11c?), Big Guns (System 11c?)
Are you working on something that will be for sale in the future? I don't mind bare boards and mounting components myself.
Question for the group:
I'm looking for some 24 and 22 gauge striped stranded wire, 100' spools maybe larger, with striped jacketing that's the correct size, that works well for general purpose as well as crimping into IDC heads (.100 and .156).
I've found the Sherco Auto wire, bought a bunch, good stuff, but the jacketing for the 22 gauge is WAY too thick for IDC crimps.
Probably looking at five or ten spools of 100' or more, and Amazon is no good for this stuff.
Anyone have any ideas?
I, like most, thank you for your efforts. I received the order I placed yesterday.
I'll hit you up with questions, and would suggest a 'how-to" on your excellent boards. I salute you again on your diligence and devotion to the cause of keeping these games alive.
Q: for the fuse blocks/fuse holders, are the solder side of these in-line or perpendicular? Meaning, the solder tabs - are they in-line with the way the fuse is inserted or rotated 90? Two pole or four pole?
I assume they're in-line but want to get it right.
I'm putting together a 'cart' on Mouser for the WPC089 driver/power board and will share if I can.
Ok, on GPE, what would be best...
Part Number 5200101Z
or
sets of Part Number 122088?
Also - on the 6V relay, DPDT, not sure what exactly is needed (lots of variables)... but I found this. OK?
I have completed a 'buy' list from Mouser - WPC089 driver board - for almost all parts (exceptions being DIP sockets and 0.100" and 0.156" connectors, as they were too spendy at Mouser).
If anyone would like this I'll attach to a PM as I don't see an easy way to post the cart or the spreadsheet here.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:PM sent
Ken
Ok, parts list/project sent.
Quoted from dung:As someone with two alvin g's, its also not one that is very often needed. The original works fine once you switch to leds.
Problem I've got is repairing old power boards, as they're regularly (from the three I've worked on) have some pretty bad hack jobs from prior techs. But maybe that's just my luck living in AK, with so few games!
If someone out there has one - even a messed up one - PM me 
Quoted from dung:I have had to run jumpers due to the gi burning the trace, but its not a hard fix. Also, add up the total number of games out there that use it. 1100 head to heads, 1000 als garage band, 200 pistols, 200 or so mysterys, 103 punchys, and 100 dinosaur eggs. So 2703 total games ever made. Not much market for the work and to be honest you are the first I have ever known who needs it in a decade.
Well, sure, but they're out there.
Would be good to have one for swapping out boards when I can't get there for repairs.
Thanks!
Quoted from DumbAss:I have been working through some big board builds. The one outstanding one I picked up today/yesterday. I will be working on that in the coming days but will likely overlap the dot matrix display with it.
I started building the DE board despite not knowing if/when my package sent with FedEx would arrive. It showed some progress on Wednesday when it showed up in Memphis! That's right west coast to Memphis and back to west coast. You have to love FedEx. They love their Memphis hub. I have seen this before so I suspect the recent weather events in the center of the continent were the reason for the delay. I have also seen packages end up in Oakland and then up the west coast.
[quoted image]
Needless to say the package arrived today. It contained the 74LS126 and 74LS273 that I needed to get some functionality on the board. It also had a resistor network in a value that I needed. I was still missing one other value (due to arrive tomorrow = Friday) but the board is pretty much complete without it so I substituted a similar value (it is a pull-up / current limiting resistor so its value is not critical). When I'm very close to being able to test a board I will do what's needed to get the answer!
So I got my answer.
[quoted image]
There are two assumptions that follow on from that.Passing on the bench is a very good indicator that the board will work in a machine. Boards that pass on the bench work in a machine unless the machine has a wiring error (a fault not due to a fault in the board).
The alphanumeric display exercises all (except comma1+2, comma3+4 and blanking) signals. Dot matrix displays are driven through the 26-pin ribbon cable so if the alphanumeric display passes the dot matrix display data will be correct.Having said the above I now need to find a dot matrix Data East machine to actually test the board in. I have a Laser War so I can test Laser War that has special support for that game only. I think an optional alphanumeric Data East machine would be nice but necessary as Laser War and dot matrix will cover most every base.
Now to find that dot matrix Data East machine ...
Probaly doesn't help you, but I do still have a LW3 that I could test parts in - unfortunately it's in Alaska
Quoted from gdonovan:I own the following.. and have minor experience doing DE board repair & eprom burning. Happy to help if I can in any way, outstanding work!
Gary
Laser War
Secret Service
Torpedo Alley
Time Machine
Playboy
Robocop
Phantom of the Opera
Checkpoint
Star Trek
Hook
Star Wars
Last Action Hero
Jurassic Park
Lethal Weapon 3
That's an awsome DE collection! Jealous!
I realize, reading these posts, that the master is on vacay.
Can someone explain or send me a link to an explanation of NDIP and WDIP IC packages?
Pulling a parts order together from Mouser and don't want to get the wrong bits!
I can pull up several explanations about so many other different types of packaging, but see nothing regarding NDIP or WDIP.
This is for the parts on the DMD display board "DBU-M16-04K"
Parts I'm referencing:
U1-U2
2
74HC04=6x NOT-1 (CMOS,NDIP-14)
SOIC-14
U3-U6
4
74HC595=shift register (CMOS,NDIP-16)
SOIC-16
U7-U14
8
TLC5926=LED Driver (WDIP-24)
SOIC-24
Quoted from DumbAss:Still reading stuff.
I use NDIP to represent NARROW (0.3"=7.62mm) DIP and WDIP to represent WIDE (0.6"=15.24mm) DIP. These are for THROUGH HOLE parts.
The DMD uses SURFACE MOUNT. There are MANY more surface mount packages and it's even more confusing.
You want SOIC-XX where XX is the number of pins. You do NOT want SSOP or TSSOP or HTSSOP. Those are different package sizes and pin spread.
The LED driver (TLC5926) is ONLY available as surface mount. I don't see those in stock at the usual suspects so this may be harder to find. There are also compatible LED drivers but those, too, might also be out of stock. For this you want TLC5926IDWR.
Search for:CD74HC04M96
CD74HC595M96
TLC5926IDWR
Thank you!!!!
Quoted from j_m_:just a head's up for those looking for build their own boards up. this is the update that I received from mouser from my parts order back in august
[quoted image]
I haz a bunch of those if you need.
Quoted from DumbAss:Supply chain issues affect me as well. Back in June I ordered some 80SQ045N Schottky diodes from Mouser. Initial estimate was delivery November 2022 (i.e. RSN = real soon now). Manufacturing and delivery dates have been modified a few times since then. It was blown out to March 2023 then to June 2023 and now to November 2023. I honestly don't expect to see them at all. I'm thinking of just canceling the remainder of that order. I bought a few of an alternative to this (90SQ040) just the other day. Good thing because I actually don't have enough 80SQ045Ns to complete the outstanding boards I need to build.
At the big box merchants, TI 74LS240 and 74LS244 are back in stock but the 74LS245 is still out and will be out for the foreseeable future. Don't even try to look for a ULN2803A. The SMD components are typically more readily available so that is a good reason to switch to SMD. The downside is that servicing the SMD in the future is problematic to the inexperienced.
It is always possible to buy from questionable merchants (Amazon or eBay) but those merchants have inherent risk.
I finally found the IRLML6401TR. From a chip broker in HK. So I bought 250 of them. $0.29/each, $35 in freight. FML.
I'm starting in earnest with the DMD boards I bought last year DumbAss .
Never done SMD work before, but I think I'm getting the hang of it.
20230220_152534 (resized).jpg20230220_152538 (resized).jpg20230220_152720 (resized).jpg20230220_152822 (resized).jpg20230220_152956 (resized).jpg20230220_153008 (resized).jpg20230220_173234 (resized).jpgQuoted from Robotworkshop:Instead of paste you can use regular solder. Just put a bit on one pad then warm it as you set the part down with tweezers. If it isn't aligned perfectly just warm the solder and move. Once placed solder the other end. I use this method all the time and it works well.
Yeah before I got the hot air station, I tried with a JBC C210 clone station, and I got pretty good results like what you mention.
Where I was goofing up when I first started was using too much solder paste. Watched a few YT vids and took some bad advice.
The MGC Chem solder paste has a very fine tip with a curve that is just a pain in the $!@# to push, but does a better job dispensing the proper amount.
That and 340C temp/~50 cfm does a good job, and I can get a good quantity of parts affixed in short order once I get set up.
Quoted from DumbAss:Exactly what I do. Use the finest gauge solder you can get. You really only need a tiny amount. To make the joint look like a factory did it then use flux afterward to "smooth" it out. Use water soluble solder and water soluble flux so that it cleans off easily.
I use:Kester 24-6337-6422
Kester 83-1097-2331There are many other manufacturers (products) that you can use.
As much as I've tried, I can never get it to be as accurate, non-blobby, or as quick as I can with hot air and solder paste. I thought my hands were pretty steady. Until I tried with the 1206 packaged SMDs!
I use a set of ESD safe tweezers to push/pull the ICs/components onto the pads as I heat them up with the hot air station. The trick, for me, is getting just the right amount of solder paste on each pad.
I use some MCG (?) chem solder paste that has a very fine needle like applicator on the end of the tube. Hard as heck to squeeze but if patient, can deliver just the right amount of solder paste onto each pad and then 'wipe' it off a the end of the pad. Has taken quite a few tries to get it down.
Denatured alcohol seems to to a good job at cleaning the board, and I check it out with 3.5x magnifiers afterward for errant crud or solder balls.
Waiting on a set of
Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - SMD/SMT 1206 50VDC 0.1uF 10% SOFT X7R
To finish it up - I got the wrong sized ones when I did my mouser order, and can't get a solder bridge to fill the gap with the smaller parts.
Adventures in pinball
Quoted from DumbAss:The nice part about hot air is that the entire area is heated and the components can be moved. If you have enough flux, the component will just fall into place when the solder is molten.
If you think 1206 is small, that's actually one of the larger sizes available. It's the smallest I will go because I can't do anything smaller than that without it being a fight. I have some smaller resistor and capacitor networks that I have used for prototype boards. I have also used 0805 for zero Ohm jumpers. I think that's close enough you can solder blob a jumper but I also purchased some 0 Ohm jumpers.
The Twilight Zone Clock board (above) uses 1206 capacitors and resistors.
No, I wish I had ordered 1206's in the first place.
I screwed up and ordered 0603 sized resistors, and 0805 sized 0.1mfd caps.
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Anchorage, AK