Sorry if this has been asked before, but is there any chance of a Data East Version 3 CPU board in the future? I'm not aware of anyone that makes a reproduction board. The particularly good thing about these is they cover a solid 7 years of games, since these boards are factory backward compatible with Version 2 and Version 1 games. So for example, your 1994 WWF Royal Rumble Version 3 board will also work in a 1990 Phantom of the Opera or a 1987 Laser War. That means you only have to worry about making a single type of board.

From Clay's Data East/Sega repair guide:

All DataEast/Sega CPU boards are downward compatible (so Version 3 could be used in a Version 1 or Version 2 game). However, it is not possible to use a CPU Version 2 board in a Version 3 game, since the reflexive circuitry used in Revision 3 does not exist in a Version 2 CPU board. Also, to modify a Revision 3 CPU board to work in Laser War (Revision 1), some modifications to the board must be performed. Check out DataEast service bulletin number 6 for this modification.

From PinWiki:

Version 1 and 2 Data East CPU boards are reflexive. Simply stated, reflexive CPU boards are boards where the 6 switched coil drive transistors were enabled by a switched coil switch input. These coils were typically pop bumpers and slingshots. Each assembly had its own switch, which was not part of the switch matrix, and was responsible for enabling its associated coil when closed. This implementation is similar to Williams System 11 Special Solenoid, however, unlike System 11 hardware, the MPU has no control over the switched solenoids (solenoids 17-22). Note that with the reflexive boards, the switched solenoids were limited to the slingshots and pop bumpers.

Version 3 boards are non-reflexive. Non-reflexive boards use 6 special coil drive transistors, however, the switches responsible for enabling these coils are part of the switch matrix. Also, the addition of a 7407 chip at 11C enables the MPU to control the switched solenoids.

Version 3, non-reflexive boards are backwards compatible, and can be used in a game which would typically use a version 2 board. Conversely, version 2 reflexive boards are not forward compatible in games which use a version 3 board. Note that with the non-reflexive boards, the switched solenoids were not limited to just the slingshots and pop bumpers.

I really like this idea. Here's a thought. You can install the bridge board before shipment only for customers that need it. Then list the one with the bridge board pre-installed separately. Have one listing with it pre-installed and one without it, and state in the listing what brand and games each one is compatible with out of the box. This will avoid the human element of having the end user install the bridge board. Plus, anyone savvy enough can remove the board and use the main driver board in another game of the opposite brand. That keeps the solution flexible and minimizes costs and logistical complexity on your end. Just make a run of driver boards, and include bridge boards in orders that require them based on what the customer buys. Win-win, and they are customer removable in case the customer wants to move the driver board to the opposite brand of game at some point. Heck, you could even sell the bridge board separately as well for people so inclined to convert their existing driver board.

Oh wow!! How in the world did Bally/Williams and Data East not sue each other over design overlap on these boards?

Whoa that's awesome! Glad to see someone besides Brett at X-PIN designing these.

My experience with the box sockets shows that if you have a reproduction harness with the connectors fitted backwards, you will have to shave off the plastic notch with a razor. Or else the connector will not fit in the boxed socket.

Most likely. Here's a trick I learned, you can connect a 128x32 game to a Sega 192x64 DMD and it will show the image with unused dots around it. Likewise, you can do the opposite and show most of a 192x64 game on a 128x32 DMD.

It looks like people have been buying kits and building boards that way.

Crazy attention to detail! I've never seen anyone make boards with that much information printed on them.

Did you ever get a chance to trace down the logic issues with the WPC sound board?

Awesome. I have a feeling the issue is RF interference on the address lines. It was much worse in my Dracula than White Water. And Victor couldn't reproduce the issue on the bench, but did reproduce it in one of his games. You also have the board I sent back for further testing.

Could you put a scope on the data lines coming in to the sound board?

Is that the board I sent back? If so I'm curious if the board I had is any worse than the others.

I think you mentioned reproducing it in your White Water. You were just never able to on the bench.

Good finds. Yes, all of our WPC machines have original CPU boards.

That's awesome! I think you're the first person to manufacture a DMD using 16x16 LED blocks. It looks great. For a possible unified display panel, do you think the SMD LEDs would be more serviceable than the 16x16 through hole blocks? As if if one goes bad, how difficult would it be to replace vs. a block with potentially 32 different solder connections?

So unified in the case of a single board (think Data East 128x16) instead of a display driver and display panel like with your master and slave boards? If so, will the master board be designed to replace or substitute an OEM display driver board?

Does this mean your displays that use the 16x16 blocks have a smaller dot size than the 8x8 blocks? I always preferred a slightly smaller dot size to the current 8x8 LED blocks, that more closely match the dots on the original plasma panels. Do you know how the 16x16 blocks compare to plasma in this regard?

That looks awesome! Less grid lines, looks closer to original plasma dots, and is more repairable. These can also be used in Data East 128x16 displays if you ever wanted to do those some day.

That's great! I believe the PinballSP DMDMK66 LED display uses both 5v and 12v to run the panel. I can get photos of this panel if it helps give you an idea on how this is achieved.

Great history! Thanks for sharing. I don't think that has been explained in detail before.

You are officially the new Rottendog. You've already done more than Jim has ever accomplished from what I can tell. Great work!

Well these technically are prototypes since nothing is final.

What do the little red displays on the bottom do? Never seen those before.

This wouldn't be possible without Dumbass!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/there-s-one-more-addams-family

I had issues with mine about 6 months ago. Im guessing the problems with the flaky address chips have been resolved?

Glad the WPC sound gremlins are gone! Happy to help.

Would you consider making a Data East/Sega/Whitestar GI smoother board? Craig Aker made the EnerGI Maestro a few years ago but doesn't appear to be persuing this anymore. Still plenty of interest:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-gi-smoother-for-data-east/page/9#post-6483071

I mean if you're making pinball parts in the basement, I can see why.

Here's a tip. Don't show up at TPF on Friday, sell junk boards, and leave on Saturday afternoon. Not that we have this issue with Dumbass of course. Keep on rocking dude!

And remember not to buy from some kids (or a grown man) in the basement!

Maybe the subtle block can be rotated and positioned where the "bad" LED is along the edge of the DMD where it would be least noticeable. Can be used in a seconds or test DMD I guess, unless you're getting rid of blocks with minor variations.

You're right, I forgot about that.

Like putting your components through a cotton gin. Lol.

I don't see a Williams logo...?

There's a typo, lol. "Detction."

It's no big deal, at all. I wouldn't notice if I bought it to be honest, and wouldn't care the least bit.

Speaking of modern components, do you know if the EZ-something 5v switching regulators draw less power on the 9v AC pins of the WPC power board secondary connector? I think those are discontinued but I bought a few of them ahead of time. I currently have a game with a factory LM323K and soldered in secondary wire harness and would like to fix that header/connector correctly without the 9v pins overheating again.

Simple fix then! Thanks.

Very nice! What scan rate are you using for the matrix?

Awesome post. May want to fix your images though, the same success photo was inserted 4 times instead of the error photos you meant to include.

Sorry, they are not on my end. Dumbass which photo shows the "INCORRECT U22" error? May just be Pinside?