(Topic ID: 136013)

Dremel Tool Tips

By goldenboy232

8 years ago


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    There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 8 years ago

    I finally bought a Dremel Tool yesterday (needed it for another home project but have been wanting one for pinball uses because I've had more than one collector say they're invaluable).

    So, curious what the most common uses are for these tools in the EM hobby (I've heard, for instance, using them to buff/clean switch contacts), and what tips/accessories are indispensable to you? What attachments do you use the most? And for what purposes? Thanks!

    #2 8 years ago

    I use mine mainly when fabricating parts such as cutting metal and plastic, shaping and grinding metal. I'll occasionally buff and polish with it.

    #3 8 years ago

    I'll buff stainless where the big buffing wheel won't fit (or would be too dangerous).

    This tip is the quickest way to restore all the bulb sockets in a hurry:

    drem.jpgdrem.jpg

    #4 8 years ago

    I use mine for cleaning old glue out of the hole when replacing inserts. Use a sanding drum attachment

    #5 8 years ago
    Quoted from goldenboy232:

    what tips/accessories are indispensable to you? What attachments do you use the most? And for what purposes?

    I use a #438 or 530 for contact points.

    I use a #443 or 532 for light sockets.

    Never had any issues with this. After you notice them wearing, toss them.

    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/SubCategories.aspx?catid=2064&catname=Polishing+Brushes

    #6 8 years ago
    Quoted from newmantjn:

    I use a #438 or 530 for contact points.
    I use a #443 or 532 for light sockets.
    Never had any issues with this. After you notice them wearing, toss them.
    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/SubCategories.aspx?catid=2064&catname=Polishing+Brushes

    I don't know. I'm glad you have never had any issues, but I would be concerned about a tiny piece of wire coming loose from the brush & creating a difficult to find short.

    #7 8 years ago

    I'm shocked at how little I use the dremel. I'm also curious to see what bits/techniques people are using especially for buffing.

    #8 8 years ago

    Thinking about buying one myself. Anybody have an opinion on wether to get cordless or not? Thought maybe it would be easier to get in tight places without the cord....then I started getting concerned about battery life though.

    #9 8 years ago

    Have a cordless Drexel still working after steady working last 3 years. 2 with cord the switch has malfunctioned inside a couple of months. I need to return, but I recommend the cordless.

    #10 8 years ago

    I use the wire brushes to remove patches of rust/oxidation where soaking the part in Evaporust isn't practical. Also had to use a cutting wheel more than once to remove a stripped or rusted screw.

    Careful if you do use the wire brushes. They'll fling tiny pieces of wire all over and you WILL find them with your bare feet.

    #11 8 years ago

    Can't believe you've gotten along without one up until now Mark! I use mine all the time when working on games. A GREAT tool!

    A few examples:

    * wire brush for cleaning switch contacts and occasional smaller scale metal buffing

    * grinder bits for removing burrs, cleaning lamp sockets and preparing metal surfaces for accepting solder (or fixing my umbrella's catch today)

    * cutting wheels for removing thin metal sections (as in Clay Harrell's recommended drop target mech modification)

    * special bit for removing tile grout in shower

    * self administered dentistry (ok - not really on this one)

    #12 8 years ago
    Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

    Can't believe you've gotten along without one up until now Mark! I use mine all the time when working on games. A GREAT tool!
    A few examples:
    * wire brush for cleaning switch contacts and occasional smaller scale metal buffing
    * grinder bits for removing burrs, cleaning lamp sockets and preparing metal surfaces for accepting solder (or fixing my umbrella's catch today)
    * cutting wheels for removing thin metal sections (as in Clay Harrell's recommended drop target mech modification)
    * special bit for removing tile grout in shower
    * self administered dentistry (ok - not really on this one)

    Haha! Tim, what specific tips do you use (which wire brushes, etc.?). There are so many and I'm afraid to buy the wrong ones. I got one of the "quick release" tips so I could go with those or the regular ones.

    #13 8 years ago

    #428 wire brush the most by far. Then grinding bit #'s 932 and 8152. Finally, cutting disks #409.

    #14 8 years ago

    I just replaced my wired one with the 12 volt version, and I am really happy with it. I also bought some stronger cut off disks that use the ez mount system, and they were great. I had to cut a post off at the treads recently, and I I broke about a dozen of the little cutoff wheels and barely made a scratch in the post. Te new bigger cutoff wheel did the job quickly without wearing down much.

    I mostly use it for cutting, and in spots that I can't get the router into (not so much on pinball for this one).

    Basically, I think the dremel is ok at a few things, but not really great at any of them. It is easy to use, and small enough to be really useful. It feels like it is never quite the right tool for the job, but I use it because it will probably work, and with a little luck, I won't make the situation worse by using it. I always find myself wishing a had a better tool, but an ok tool for a bunch of different uses is surprisingly valuable.

    I paid about $100 for the 12 volt version, and I think it was money well spent. It has a slide switch for velocity, and a separate switch to turn it on. I think I like that better than the combined switch on my old one.

    #15 8 years ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    I use the wire brushes to remove patches of rust/oxidation where soaking the part in Evaporust isn't practical. Also had to use a cutting wheel more than once to remove a stripped or rusted screw.
    Careful if you do use the wire brushes. They'll fling tiny pieces of wire all over and you WILL find them with your bare feet.

    If you're using a Dremmel in general, it's a really good idea to be wearing safety glasses. The brushes can fling the bristles into your face, the cutting wheel throws material that also can hit your face.

    And as far as the cutting wheels, I've even cut a pad-lock with one of those. Handy to have.

    #16 8 years ago
    Quoted from Nexyss:

    I paid about $100 for the 12 volt version, and I think it was money well spent. It has a slide switch for velocity, and a separate switch to turn it on. I think I like that better than the combined switch on my old one

    It may depend on which model too, mine is a cord type (Dremel 4000 series) and has the slide switch (rotating wheel really) and the on/off switch.

    #17 8 years ago

    This "dremel" at Harborfreight is usually on sale for $6.99:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-69451.html

    All the accessory tips are worth the price, even if you break the motorized part in a year.

    #18 8 years ago

    http://www.harborfreight.com/276-pc-rotary-tool-accessory-set-62440.html

    This kit assumes you already have the motor, and just want a ton of bits.

    It has the lamp socket cleaning bit, and green compound for polishing stainless steel

    #19 8 years ago

    My dremel tip is it is often cheaper to buy cutting discs in a multi pack than buy the cutting disks as a stand alone item.

    #20 8 years ago

    I have a cordless Dremel 7.2v that has a switch with - off - in the middle and Hi - and low - on both sides . It is almost impossible to shut off with out going to Hi or Low . So every time I use it I want to KICK who ever designed it right in the arse !

    #21 8 years ago

    An attachment that turns it into a drill press comes in handy.

    #22 8 years ago

    I use the wire brush to clean corrosion and dirt off of the solder side of header pins before I desolder or reflow them.

    #23 8 years ago

    I use my dremel with the small scotchbrite type buffing wheels on SS ball guides, make quick work of them. I make my own PF plastic protectors using Polycarbonate sheets from Pinrestore and my band saw. I then use the drum sanding disks to sand the edges and shape them to final and use buffing wheels to polish the edges to a nice polished shine. I use the cutoff wheels alot. I have used the diamond bead bit to actually etch the glass on DMD displays to allow me to get solder and some conducting epoxy on a broken wire lead. This works where you might have a column on the display not working because of a broken lead. I got a new dremel last Christmas after my 20 plus year old one just got too flaky. Powered model, not battery. Wire wheels are great for general cleaning in tight spots like when you restore a lock down bar receiving bracket. I like the idea of the mini-drill press attachment, going to have to try that. If you really want a pro tool, get one of those flex-shaft tools the Jewelery artists use. I have seen one and they are amazing.

    #24 8 years ago
    Quoted from Chet:

    If you really want a pro tool, get one of those flex-shaft tools the Jewelery artists use. I have seen one and they are amazing.

    Dremel makes a flex shaft attachment:
    http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=sr_1_1

    I use mine all the time, makes it much easier to control for fine work.

    #25 8 years ago

    My current Dremel is burned up and non-functional, as they all seem to do eventually. Rather than just going and buying yet another, I did some reading about the possible alternatives. Basically, there is the cheap stuff like Dremels and such, and more pro-grade, such as the Foredoms which are used by jewelers, woodcarvers, etc. I have one of these Foredom K.2272 in my wish list. It is pretty pricey. Just thinking about whether over time it will be worth the investment. My past experience however is that I have never regretted spending the money on a really good tool, one that is very efficient at the job and also quality-built so it will last basically forever.

    http://www.amazon.com/Foredom-K-2272-motor-General-Applications/dp/B000R8DMN2/ref=sr_1_1

    #26 8 years ago

    cutting disk to remove rivets

    #27 8 years ago
    Quoted from xsvtoys:

    My current Dremel is burned up and non-functional, as they all seem to do eventually. Rather than just going and buying yet another, I did some reading about the possible alternatives. Basically, there is the cheap stuff like Dremels and such, and more pro-grade, such as the Foredoms which are used by jewelers, woodcarvers, etc. I have one of these Foredom K.2272 in my wish list. It is pretty pricey. Just thinking about whether over time it will be worth the investment. My past experience however is that I have never regretted spending the money on a really good tool, one that is very efficient at the job and also quality-built so it will last basically forever.
    amazon.com link »

    Are the brushes replaceable on a Dremel? I thought they were....

    #28 8 years ago

    If you restore pins I think the Dremel is a great tool. I have the 400 and I beat the crap out of it and it's still going. I use the drum sander to clean out lamp socket holes on playfields. Buffing wheel with rouge to polish stainless parts. Diamond tips for cleaning clear coat from star roll over inserts on new CPR pf's. There's countless uses for the Dremel. Non pinball related, I use the lawn mower blade sharpener attachment and also the grout removal tool for tile repairs.

    #29 8 years ago

    Anyone using the flex shaft attachment?

    Seems pretty awesome for our purposes...but some feedback would be great.

    #30 8 years ago

    I hate my Dremel. The bits are pricey, but feel cheap and do not last long. Using my Dremel for a job usually makes me realize I need some other tool to do that job properly.

    The only time I use it is for the cutting wheel or maybe a grinding bit, but usually as a last resort. The brush-type bits seem to disintegrate very quickly and I just don't buy them anymore.

    Please always wear eye protection when using these things!

    #31 8 years ago

    I use mine for cleaning the Jones plugs. Find the abrasive tip similar to one in 3rd post. Mine is rounded at the top though. Pretty much the exact size for the female end but is round vs square plug. But then again the male end is round so you only need to touch up the male end in the areas that would contact the just cleaned portion. No more unplugging and plugging to clean then, and you know that rules out dirty plugs.

    #32 8 years ago
    Quoted from Lovef2k:

    Are the brushes replaceable on a Dremel? I thought they were....

    yes, they are. there is a small panel (round with a slotted area for a screwdriver) on the dremel that is removable to access and replace the brushes.

    #33 8 years ago
    Quoted from pinwhoo:

    I use mine for cleaning the Jones plugs. Find the abrasive tip similar to one in 3rd post. Mine is rounded at the top though. Pretty much the exact size for the female end but is round vs square plug. But then again the male end is round so you only need to touch up the male end in the areas that would contact the just cleaned portion. No more unplugging and plugging to clean then, and you know that rules out dirty plugs.

    To be clear, what type of tip is in the third post? Is that just a grinding stone?

    Also, thoughts on cheapo $0.10 Ebay attachments vs official ones? I agree Dremel bits don't last very long, so I don't see the reason to buy official ones. However, I know replacement toothbrushes from Hong Kong are worthless and I have to shell out for the pricey official ones, so it could go either way.

    #34 8 years ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    but I would be concerned about a tiny piece of wire coming loose from the brush & creating a difficult to find short.

    Yep. Lots of concern. Never a problem by anyone I know that uses one.

    Lots of issues finding the difficult to locate piece of flexstone left in the relay that has been cleaned over and over though. Just go back and look at some of the posts.

    #35 8 years ago
    Quoted from j_m_:

    yes, they are. there is a small panel (round with a slotted area for a screwdriver) on the dremel that is removable to access and replace the brushes.

    Yes, I got the new brushes, put them in, it still didn't work, then I took it apart some more to see if I could figure out what was wrong, then the stupid thing basically fell apart. I trashed it and good riddance. I think that's the second or third one I have had. If you have had good luck with Dremel, then that is great. I think if you have some of the older stuff it is probably good. It looks like all the new stuff is cheap junk from China. I shopped for a new one and started looking at the reviews, and that's when I thought maybe its time to get something else that might last for a while. The problem is, there are not that many choices. Just Dremel and similar stuff, and the Foredom.

    #36 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/276-pc-rotary-tool-accessory-set-62440.html
    This kit assumes you already have the motor, and just want a ton of bits.
    It has the lamp socket cleaning bit, and green compound for polishing stainless steel

    I bought a kit very similar to this one some time back.
    However it came with no instructions and I can't for the life of me figure out how to attach those little sand paper rolls.
    I assumed they would go on the little black rubber barrel tip things, but they just spin in place. No way to make them stay tight. So now I only buy tips with pre attached tops because all the others seem useless.

    #37 8 years ago

    Default Gen - yes grinding one. I'll try to take a pic later.

    #38 8 years ago

    Note - To make the sanding rolls stay on the rubber barrel you have to tighten the screw that expands the rubber .

    -1
    #39 8 years ago

    i was lucky to find a set of replacement carbon brushes at a local hobby shop. every big box store doesnt stock them. after emailing dremel about it they said amazon carries the dremel full line of products.

    #40 8 years ago
    Quoted from Arcade:

    I assumed they would go on the little black rubber barrel tip things, but they just spin in place. No way to make them stay tight. So now I only buy tips with pre attached tops because all the others seem useless.

    As TT says above, tightening the screw compresses the rubber doughnut causing is to expand and hold the sandpaper ring in place.

    The little wrench/screwdriver in the kit fits the screw exactly.

    #41 8 years ago
    Quoted from DefaultGen:

    To be clear, what type of tip is in the third post? Is that just a grinding stone?

    Yes, a fine grinding stone. the flat tip cleans the tip of the lamp socket spring, the sides clean the tube of the socket.

    Don't ever use the wire brush to clean sockets, because if a wire gets caught in the spring, it shorts out the socket. This is VERY HARD to find latter when the playfield is assembled!

    In fact, when replacing the GI on a playfield swap, ALWAYS test the GI circuits BEFORE you further populate the playfield.

    #42 8 years ago

    Dremel is great for smoothing out the mushroomed head on old flipper plunger shafts. Quick, cheap flipper rebuild: take off coil, replace sleeve with a new one, use Dremel to sand off any mushrooming on the plunger shaft and/or coil stop, wipe black dirt off everything, put back together, start flipping!

    Question for Vid: I'm afraid to use the Dremel for cleaning lamp sockets. Won't that damage the spring inside it?

    #43 8 years ago

    Wow, Sooo many good posts on this one...I did not know so many of you use the dremel the same ways I do.
    It is the bomb for doin EM work. The flex handle though, I am not sure about, seems redundant. And whut are you gonna do with the tool?
    Hold it in the other hand?
    The cut off disks are perfect for burrs,mods, etc... And the brass brushes are unmatched for cleanin switches. "without damaging them"
    And a good blow job afterwards, removes the bristles. Ok, all you curb divers...climb back up to the sidewalk. I meant compressed air.
    I have been using the brass brushes for a long time, and yeah, they ware down quick, and I get one or two in my feet, but they come out.
    And I have never had a short caused by the bristles. Thats whut the air is for, the rest of the job.And, it drys the alcohol I drink to clean the grime off everything.
    Ok, questions,
    pinwoo, whut bit do you use for the jones plugs? I have not been able to find one small enough to fit inside the socket holes.
    Vid, you mentioned cleaning bulb sockets...with a grinder bit? I have been using #443 brushes with complete success. how well does that grinder bit work? can you get around the center post too? maybe I will try that. been puttin it off because the brushes work so well. but always willin to try new stuff, specially if it works better, and or lasts longer.
    OK, off the soap box...keep the posts commin guys. this is education in a can!

    #44 8 years ago

    Thanks Vid and TT.
    So it is the wrench.
    When I first tried to use those all I could think of is what a stupid design they were.
    My kit must have been packed with no instructions as I looked everywhere.

    #45 8 years ago
    Quoted from Euchrid:

    Question for Vid: I'm afraid to use the Dremel for cleaning lamp sockets. Won't that damage the spring inside it?

    No, it cleans the tip of the spring nicely, leaving just a bit of roughness, so the spring can dig into fresh metal on the bulb's tit.

    If I'm moving the sockets from a donor playfield, I clean them all at once while still in the donor, then blow any abrasive dust out of the sockets with the air compressor (outside obviously, you don't want all that lead dust in the shop).

    Install the sockets on the new playfield, test each GI run with a meter to make sure no shorts.

    Then populate with bulbs and make sure no shorts with their springs compressed (I use a wall wart for a power supply).

    #46 8 years ago
    Quoted from pinwhoo:

    I use mine for cleaning the Jones plugs.

    Forgot about that. I use mine with the flatter wire wheel for this as well. It does a great job.

    #47 8 years ago

    Good luck, all of my Dremel brand rotary tools have broken. The first threw a bearing and the second had an issue with the motor that would cause it to overheat to the point that the epoxy in the windings melted. This was a common issue that even Dremel acknowledged yet they did nothing to help the people that bought them (it was $120 for the set I bought, believe the 400 XPR). I have since went to harbor freight and purchased their equivalent for $20.

    #48 8 years ago
    Quoted from Arcade:

    My kit must have been packed with no instructions as I looked everywhere.

    The instructions for those came with the Dremmel itself

    dremel.jpgdremel.jpg

    #49 8 years ago

    These abrasive buffs for all types of metal cleaning/polishing, except ball guides. I also use them for SS switches, just give a short burst to clean the tarnish off without damaging the gold plating.
    dremel buffs.jpgdremel buffs.jpg
    A diamond wheel for all my cutting needs:
    dremel diamond cutoff.jpgdremel diamond cutoff.jpg
    An emery wheel for tungsten switches and for more intense metal cleaning:
    dremel emery wheel.jpgdremel emery wheel.jpg
    I carry a golf polishing dremel in my tool bag wherever I go. Never know when you'll need it.
    dremel golf.jpgdremel golf.jpg

    #50 8 years ago

    All the Dremel tips on one poster

    2012AccessoryPoster.pdf2012AccessoryPoster.pdf

    There are 83 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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