Hi, I am a new owner to a 1993 prototype machine, full optos, crane ball in switch, and no notch in head unit for topper. It was an export unit, but back in the states now.

I took apart all the ramps and rails to do a deep cleaning to bring back from storage unit condition, new rubbers, polish all plastics, repair deadworld gearbox ( drilled and pinned the gears that were slipping )

I forgot to log the order in which I took the rails ramps and plastics apart.

Can someone point me to a guide for assembling the plastics rails and ramp? Or post the easiest order for assembly? Any tips or tricks?

Thank you in advance

John

Awesome thank you both. Those links truly help a lot. Now to follow the instructions they show. Then debug the electronics.

I got it back together, and running. Now to debug the left flipper, and drop target that tests fine but jitters instead of popping up during play. I put in all new large caps on the driver board already. The smaller one tested ok. It’s almost like there’s not enough current to drive everything. Gotta check the bridge rectifiers tomorrow.
Also the top left flipper tests ok, but doesn’t go during the game.

For the flipper problem I had. Part was an opto that died. The other part was the wire on the fliptronics board connector was not making contact, reseated it, and it works fine now. Fixed with leaf switches until a new opto board arrives.

The dead world gearbox was an easy fix. Getting the nuts off after a previous owner put locktite on, was the hardest part.

Drilling and pinning the slipping gear was easy on my mill. The easiest part of the whole rebuild of the gearbox.

I think I have a fix for the problematic drop targets.

I’ve been having the jittery drop targets for a while even after cleaning.

I finally took apart, and debuted everything, put ptfe powder and reassembled the mech.

In addition I swapped out the knocker 23-800 coil in for the 24-900 drop target coil.

Now with the stronger coil there’s not even a hint of hesitation or jitteryness. First shot reset during game play, no question about it.

The driver board should handle it since all the outputs are the same design.

Is there something else I’m missing that can give trouble with the coil swap?