No need to close the door. There are two switches that the coin door pushes closed, one of them is dented all the way around the top (see pic) - pull this one out and it closes the switch as if the door were closed, allowing for the solenoid and flasher tests. Bam! I learned this watching Ray's Tech Tips by GRC on YouTube. I learn something each episode, highly recommended!

https://www.youtube.com/user/GameroomCollectibles/

High Voltage Interlock Switch (resized).jpeg

Ditto.

Ditto. I don't use many of the custom cards because the text is so hard to read due to the text getting lost in the busy background.

Looks great, and it's legible!

It's readable and looks great!

Hit the red button when the sniper hits the fence.

http://hem.bredband.net/b257182/Cows&Easter.htm#J

You're welcome! I haven't done it on mine yet - actually haven't played mine yet! It is a re-import that either needs a new driver board or this one WAY fixed. Haven't decided yet, but I'm looking forward to playing it!

@trumpy pictures show what appears to be factory mylar on the pf. Is this correct? I am cleaning one and mine has a patchwork of mylar pieces on the lower part of the playfield but there doesn't appear to be any on the rest of the pf. I plan on removing these because they have lifted in places and are collecting dirt. Since this machine is going to be home use now I don't plan on replacing the mylar but I will install Cliffy roll-over switch protectors.

IMG_5883 (resized).jpgIMG_5884 (resized).jpg

Hey trumpy , your response above was treated like a quote, can you make it so it's readable, please?

Nice work. I have used the colored plastic cabinet protectors in the past and they wrinkled the decals. I now use the metal ones that hide beneath the leg, similar to what Stern uses. They are very easy to install and look nice and clean.

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

535-0599-00_300x184 (resized).jpg

Cleaning and shopping my Dredd and have come to the planet assembly. The rings are easy enough to take apart but how do I pull the top half of the planet apart? I've tried squeezing and twisting but I don't want to force it. Any advice? I assume there are couple of snap-tabs?

Thanks, guys. Yes, someone glued it. I was able to get it off in one piece with no damage, Assuming the glue filled in any fine threads that there are I will likely need to tack-glue it back in place.

Now to the next issue on this shop job - There are a total of 6 posts behind the JUDGE drops. The manual and all pictures I can find show only 4. I have 4 posts with rubber sleeves & 2 with double rings on them instead of only the double 1-1/2" rings between the 2 outer posts, which I will change. Does anyone else have the 6 posts? Here's a pic:

Dredd Drop Posts (resized).JPG

Thanks, PinRob & trumpy . Figured it was a hack. I never noticed the game shop-out gallery links, those will really help. Never enough photos.

I put in the stock fluorescent orange ring but am kinda wishing that I had gone with the fluorescent red one.

FYI, I worked for 2 evenings adjusting the Deadworld mech according to the guides out there and could never get it to work reliably. I had pretty much given up and decided to move on, so one last time I checked the height of the crane, re-tightened every nut, bolt, and screw in the mech then put it through the unload test and IT WORKED. Now after 3 days of non-stop play at the NW Pinball And Arcade Show this weekend I didn't see a lock or unload fail ONCE.

Simply swap the disc you get for the one in the game, moving the stand-offs to the new ring. Install the new ROM, turn the game on and pray. Go to the crane/Dead World tests and tune if needed using this guide:

http://www.iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm

I recommend first tightening everything up if it doesn't work right straight away.

I bought a set of these repros for my Demolition Man from Bay Area Amusements and ended up using the originals on the slings since they have more color saturation and are up front and obvious, and put the new repros everywhere else. It turned out looking good and a bit brighter than the originals.

Have you ever pulled the mech out and completely cleaned everything? There should be no lubrication on any part of it. As long as it is clean it should work smoothly and reliably.

Way cool cooling towers. What parts did you use?

Both are at the back of the playfield, the white one in the middle above the orbit wireform and the blue one under the Air Raid ramp to the right:

JD plastics location (resized).jpg