(Topic ID: 40984)

Dredd Owners Thread. Members Only!

By Anim8ormatt

11 years ago


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#3569 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

Finally got a JD! Now I need to find a replacement DMD. Do you guys recommend Marco, Pinball Life or Ebay for new displays? Is anyone willing to send links on a manual/schematic? Also, I am all about getting great pinwiki links if you are okay sharing.

Pinside has been awesome to me.

I can't wait to start playing.

Thanks

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#3573 3 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

Have you ruled out a bad DMD driver board or bad cables?

Cables look good. As for the driver board, I'll need to do more research.

The display slowly gets better as it warms, telling me it's probably gassing. The center top portion stays off...and it seems the dots reappear when pressure is applied along top pins. I wonder if there are some cold solder joints to blame...but it seems like its a outgassing based on the warm up.

Disregard that loose cable shown in the pick. I reset all ribbon cables.

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#3577 3 years ago
Quoted from Soapman:

durgee7
Just a idea, add a color dmd. You will not be disappointed.

Cool! I'll try not to rush into buying just any dmd. Color sounds nice...but pricey...but more reliable if led.

#3580 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

What is that odd glow?
[quoted image]
Thanks to ragefactory for the awesome cooling tower mod...it looks fantastic!
[quoted image]
For durgee7, in case he needs convincing that a ColorDMD is a Good Idea(tm)...
[quoted image]

Wow! That color dmd is beautiful! Let me research those displays a little more and get prices.

#3585 3 years ago

Thanks to all on your help getting a new or working dmd.

As for my next challenge, has anyone ever removed the head or back box from the cabinet? I ask because I'm planning to move the pin upstairs, and the last wide body was a pain turning the corner (stairs turn 90 deg after a few step). Worst case: I hire movers when this pandemic settles.

Carefully labeling and unplugging connectors isn't an issue. I'm more concerned with detaching the bottom hinges.

Appreciate the feedback. My feeling is that I'll be better off just folding it down and getting 2 other guys to help lift and maneuver.

#3589 3 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

That rug is realy tying the room together

Haa! That rug came with the game. It was sandwiched between the back box and cabinet. Sadly, it is back with the original owner

Thanks, Guys!

#3604 3 years ago

Shout out to calfdemon for helping me get a working dmd. Now I can run diagnostics and move this pin upstairs.

#3606 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

I'm going through my new purchase, trying to account for all unattached wires and parts. So far, I'm missing the 2 large backbox bolts that are vertically inserted to top of cabinet. I also noticed a stray green ground and I'm trying to find it's place

Are these bolts that I can buy from the hardware store? I'll double-check the manual.

Do you guys recognize this ground? I can try finding it in the Pinside Shopout pics.

Any info on these items is greatly appreciated!
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#3608 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Easy.[quoted image]

Thanks, Davi!

#3612 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

I'm looking for some tips on a few items. So far, I'm all caught up with this thread (took 4 days off/on to read all posts).

1. I remember someone installing a playfield protector. I bought one for Dredd but wonder how deep I need to go with removing Deadworld. Worst case, I'll figure it out like I did for TMNT and DP Pro.

2. I want to preserve the backglass paint. There are a few scratches but nothing too severe. Has anyone here added triple thick clear to the backside of their Dredd backglass? I did it for ASM and seemed to lock in the paint. Just want to make sure this backglass won't have some wierd reaction with the clear...I don't know.

3. I haven't run the switch, coil, or lamp diagnostics, but gameplay seems to be working as intended (without understanding all rules at this point). Deadworld rotates and captures all 3 balls before multi-ball release via crane drop. I did select ENTER before gameplay and the test report said to check switches for SW 61 Globe Pos, and all Flipper SW E.O.S. I'll have to dig into those issues later because there is a dot showing after Freeplay text in DMD.

As always, I appreciate the support. I'm just glad I was able to get this big boy upstairs by myself (ouch, my shoulder is hurting from patting myself on the back )

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#3614 3 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

Dredd has a translite, not a backglass. I have never heard of putting clear on a translite. If you are worried about more scratches, cut a thin piece of clear plastic to the same size as the translite, and sandwich it in the channel pieces with the translite. With the clear piece on the backside of course.

Thanks! For some reason I thought translites were those flimsy translucent sheets that allow light to shine through, illuminating colors. This Dredd glass had me fooled.

1 week later
#3621 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

Yesterday, I spent hours taking apart JD playfield, replaced all flipper coil stops/sleeves/springs, cleaned entire playfield and all plastics, replaced rubber rings/posts, and added a playfield protector. I was able to clean many of the optic switches and removed almost all errors from test report. This is a fun pin.

I'm still getting a Switch Error for Globe Position 1 (SW 61). After researching this forum and googling other sites, it seems this could be due to a dirty switch, non-working switch (replacement needed), or a ROM issue (for Deadworld Mod). The opening DMD displays version L1, and I'm assuming this, coupled with an assumed Deadworld mod, is causing the error. I pulled what I think is the switch board containing SW61 (see pic of dirty switches) and cleaned both switches. Cleaning did not seem to help, but I was able to remove all other switch errors by cleaning leaf switch contacts and other optic switches.

Any feedback you guys have on this notorious SW 61 issue is much appreciated.

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#3623 3 years ago
Quoted from robotron911:

First, off, the optos look dirty based off of the pic. Give it a good cleaning. There are replacements for that board and they aren't too expensive.
Second, JD playfields are pretty damn durable. I have had several pfs (including one I'm throwing up for sale) and they are usually in exceedingly good shape. I'm not sure a pf protector is really needed on this game.

Thanks, robotron! I might need to do another cleaning. Also, thanks for the playfield feedback. I was very surprised how nice this playfield looked when it arrived. Didn't realize they were known to be durable. With that said, the protector is already installed and I like how it works (personal preference for a controversial product).

Thanks

#3624 3 years ago

I went ahead and cleaned the optos for that sw 61 globe position. Unfortunately, the credit dot is still linked to SW 61 in the test report. I read somewhere that certain switches that aren't activated for 30 or so games will trigger this error. I'm not sure if this relates to SW 61 but removing the batteries and resetting time/date cleared all test report errors, and removed the dot. Just wanted to share this info.
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#3626 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Alternately, you could always run a few test games and activate the planet to see if it's working fine.

I did. It does work. I'll keep my eye on it for the next 30 or so games.

#3627 3 years ago

I don't mean to be a regular pest on this forum, but I noticed my Super Game switch has never activated since this game became mine. At first, I thought it could be an issue with freeplay and required credits. Well, when entering switch test, the micro switch ( still making click sound ) does not activate. It's wierd because the button flasher, which is tied to the power driver board, works. I'm thinking of starting at the diode, then maybe considering a new micro switch. Just curious if my current wiring setup is correct ( in pics and sketch ). Not that this would affect the switch, but a yellow wire with orange stripes is shown instead of a yellow-gray wire (noticed 2 yellow-gray wires attached to START button micro switch). Can anyone confirm whether my Super Game wires are correctly attached? I think they're good, but just looking to rule this out of possible problems.

Thanks!

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#3629 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

I'll get downstairs later today and take a pic of mine for you. I had to replace my whole button for 'Start' and it's the same style button for 'Super Game'. I think I paid $10 for it, if it is indeed the switch.

Thanks, Mr-Frog! I'm hoping it's something as simple as replacing the switch and/or diode.

#3631 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardHurtz:

The outer portion of my Supergame switch stopped making mechanical contact with the inner small plunger. After adjusting the alignment it has been fine ever since.

Thanks HowardHurtz. I'll check this out as well. As of now, I know the button is pressing the switch properly and causing it to click. I'll have to see how contact is made based on your past issue with the inner plunger.

#3632 3 years ago

Do you guys know if 1N914B diodes are a suitable replacement for the one used at the super game micro switch? I bought so many, thinking I'd need them for a system 80 gottlieb. Also, without taking the button and switch out from the machine, I cannot read what type of diode is currently in place. I can always dig into this later. It's probably specified in the schematic, within the manual.

Thanks!
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#3635 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

And to answer your other question: I wouldn't use a 1N914 there, as they're only rated for 150 mA @ 100V, where as the 1n4001 is rated for 1A @50V. If you think the diode is bad, I would remove it from the switch and use a digital volt meter to test it.

Thanks, Mr_Frog! Pics are very helpful! Also, I'll test the diode tomorrow and see if that's causing issues. Looks like micro switches are relatively cheap too. Thanks again!

#3637 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Also note that my switch has two diodes connected to it: One from the red wire to the left terminal (inside the rubber tube) and the one between the front and top-front terminal.

Thanks for pointing that out. I would of overlooked that second diode. Makes me wonder what else is missing or incorrectly installed. Previous owner replaced the coin door and cabinet decals. It's very possible a few things weren't put back in correct location.

#3646 3 years ago

Here you go!

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#3648 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I don't mean to be a regular pest on this forum, but I noticed my Super Game switch has never activated since this game became mine. At first, I thought it could be an issue with freeplay and required credits. Well, when entering switch test, the micro switch ( still making click sound ) does not activate. It's wierd because the button flasher, which is tied to the power driver board, works. I'm thinking of starting at the diode, then maybe considering a new micro switch. Just curious if my current wiring setup is correct ( in pics and sketch ). Not that this would affect the switch, but a yellow wire with orange stripes is shown instead of a yellow-gray wire (noticed 2 yellow-gray wires attached to START button micro switch). Can anyone confirm whether my Super Game wires are correctly attached? I think they're good, but just looking to rule this out of possible problems.
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ugh, replaced the Super Game Microswitch and Diode. Same result, no switch activation. I should check continuity between mpu and switch wiring.

Ok, no continuity between molex at switch and mpu idc connectors. This is getting interesting.

#3649 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Ugh, replaced the Super Game Microswitch and Diode. Same result, no switch activation. I should check continuity between mpu and switch wiring.
Ok, no continuity between molex at switch and mpu idc connectors. This is getting interesting.

Does anyone have this green-yellow wire at J207 with this extra (single) connector? It's like an extension of the green-yellow wire, linked to super game. I wonder if this is causing problems.

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#3650 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Does anyone have this green-yellow wire at J207 with this extra (single) connector? It's like an extension of the green-yellow wire, linked to super game. I wonder if this is causing problems.[quoted image]

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#3651 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

[quoted image]

Fixed! It was that damn single green wire connector. The previous owner must have left it disconnected. Sorry for the inconvenience.

1 week later
#3665 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

I just wanted to play a quick game and the ball would not enter shooter lane to be launched at START. The button makes the motorcycle engine sound and lights up. Is this the infamous ball trough issue? Also, the crane starts going nuts trying to find a lost ball. I guess first step is to clean the ball trough optos? I'm going to check tomorrow morning.

Thanks!
20200502_203350 (resized).jpg20200502_203350 (resized).jpg

I will go through the following steps before reporting back:

Screenshot_20200503-092317_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200503-092317_Chrome (resized).jpg
#3666 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
I just wanted to play a quick game and the ball would not enter shooter lane to be launched at START. The button makes the motorcycle engine sound and lights up. Is this the infamous ball trough issue? Also, the crane starts going nuts trying to find a lost ball. I guess first step is to clean the ball trough optos? I'm going to check tomorrow morning.

Thanks!

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#3667 3 years ago

Ball trough registers every ball. I took a video during solenoid test. Something wierd is happening with Dead World instead of activating the solenoids.

Flippers and ball launch are not working (during gameplay) either.

In switch test, sling switches slightly activate deadworld. Wierd.

All switches are recognized in the switch matrix when manually activated.

Replace one bad fuse (F111) on MPU board, but still no luck.

#3668 3 years ago

Ok, definitely related to coils and flashers since both are not working during solenoid and flasher tests. At least it's narrowed down a bit. Now I need to determine if the actual solenoids have correct voltage, and then move on to transistors. All fuses are good.

All switches are still activating in test mode, and single lamps light as well. I wonder if it's one solenoid that's messing this all up.

Update: All coils showing normal voltage. I'm thinking there is a bad transistor, or connectors needs to be reseated.

#3670 3 years ago
Quoted from Watkinsd13:

durgee7 sound exactly like my dredd last night I wasn’t able to figure it out last night but will be looking into it this afternoon. I’ll post if I can find what’s going on with mine to see if that helps at all. Good luck!

Thanks, WatkinsD13! I just checked the Driver Board transistors on my Rottendog board using 10 amp DC multimeter test and several activate the deadworld and crane operation: Q44, Q46, Q50, Q54, Q56, Q58, Q64, Q66, Q68, Q70, Q78, Q80. None of the other boards activate the solenoids. I may need to do this check on boards within cabinet/under playfield.

Thanks!
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#3671 3 years ago

It looks like the previous owners tape hack has me chasing my tail. Lets retape this bad boy and see where it takes us.

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#3672 3 years ago

It was the coin door switch all along! Previous owner replaced coin door, and that door does not close the high voltage switch. Damn, if only I had looked at that switch. Lesson learned.

#3674 3 years ago
Quoted from Watkinsd13:

durgee7 man that’s awesome. If only we were all so lucky lol

So far, so good. There will be issues in the future, no doubt. I learn even when it's not necessary. Hope you get yours fixed soon. Let me know if you need any pics or other help.

7 months later
#3856 3 years ago

Hey Guys! I just got another Dredd and decided to clean the playfield and replace balls before playing. The machine has decided to continuously fire the Left Launch Coil after pressing start. I turned the game off and powered up again, but that same coil continues to actuate. Any ideas on where I should start? The rollover micro switch is not getting activated by accident. I did notice a few loose wires (one of which looks to be from the side of the supergame switch). The red-green wire has a terminal that probably needs to connect somewhere. Maybe that's causing this issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated...even photos showing locations for the loose wires in my pics.

Thanks!

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#3857 3 years ago

Here's another video after restarting (powering on) the machine without pushing start. Maybe I need to check the fuses.

#3859 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Played the video with 0.25x speed. Seems the switch is activated by the plunger.

Interesting. I need to check that plunger and try again. Good eyes!

#3861 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The green wire goes to the the door switch (smaller one with 2 terminals).

Ok, I attached the green-red wire to the coin door switch and soldered that loose yellow-orange wire to the supergame microswitch (that still doesn't seem to light or work). This video is afterward. Notice how at the end I get a ball to load after pressing start a second time. Unfortunately, I kept getting another ball loaded, and it didn't end until all balls were in the shooter lane. I restarted and pressed start twice to speed up the process but no ball would load in the shooter lane, but game thought I launched a ball after pressing launch.

Full disclosure: The person who sold this to me said they had issues with the ball trough and had to fix it prior to sending me a video. I'll never learn my lesson of buying pins without actually playing them. I have a feeling my homework is only beginning for ball trough issues.

Thanks again for all your help. I'm wondering if new ball trough boards are needed.

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#3863 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Check the switches and the ball trough in the service menu.

Yeah, I tried that well before and it tells me to open coin door to enter menu. This game is something else. My previous Dredd was easy to enter diagnostics. This machine is suspicious in that no credit dots appear ( too good to be true). The battery area on the cpu was altered with trace repair wires...not sure if that's involved.

This machine seemed worked well on Wednesday with no ball trough issues. I didn't check diagnostics until today, and now diagnostics are not even pulling up.

I removed one of the trough boards (great lakes) and there have been wires extended using shrink tube. Maybe the wires are kinked and not allowing a good connection to the board.

I am able to play a game with 2 balls (no joke). When a 3rd ball is added, the trough automatically kicks it into the shooter lane, and I end up with 2 in the lane. Same occurs for every ball I add in excess of 2.

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#3865 3 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

The coin door switch seems bypassed, the game thinks the door is closed?

Yes, I'll check. The switch is being held in. Good catch.

#3866 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Yes, I'll check. The switch is being held in. Good catch.

Ok, there was this metal band holding the wrong switch inward. 6 balls were in the ball trough during the tests. After running diagnostics, all coils fired. The edge switch test showed trough 6, 5, 4, 3, and 1 as OPEN. Trough 2 was the only one shown as closed. I'll need to do further testing on those trough switches to narrow down the problem. Also says Top Trough CLOSED.

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#3867 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Ok, there was this metal band holding the wrong switch inward. 6 balls were in the ball trough during the tests. After running diagnostics, all coils fired. The edge switch test showed trough 6, 5, 4, 3, and 1 as OPEN. Trough 2 was the only one shown as closed. I'll need to do further testing on those trough switches to narrow down the problem. Also says Top Trough CLOSED.
[quoted image]

It's the trough opto wires. They need to be repaired. Well, you tell me based in the video.

#3868 3 years ago

Ok guys, fixed that flakey IDC issue at the Great Lakes Opto board. I'm still getting one switch that doesn't seem to work (ball trough #2). I checked the connector at the opposing board and cleaned all black bulbs. One step closer, I guess.

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#3869 3 years ago

Confirmed the issue is on the reciever board for that Ball 2 trough location. All LED'S on transmitter are good. Now I need to figure out whether or not a new receiver board is needed.

#3870 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Confirmed the issue is on the reciever board for that Ball 2 trough location. All LED'S on transmitter are good. Now I need to figure out whether or not a new receiver board is needed.

One of the recievers (at Q5) is not registering when shining a flashlight. I hope this is all that needs replacing. Wonder if this is a common issue.

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#3872 3 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

Yes it happens, trough board components don’t last forever, you can replace just that failed one or buy new boards.

I decided to go crazy and order a new receiver board along with emitting and receiving LED's. Thanks!

#3873 3 years ago

Hey Guys,

Can anyone confirm if a Gray-Yellow wire for J1-11 (at 7 ball Trough Photo Transistor PCB Assembly) is required? The manual shows a Gray-Yellow wire for 12V from Power Driver Board J118-2. Just wondering if this is having a negative effect on the ball trough. My new board and IR LED'S arrive this Thursday.

Thank you!

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#3875 3 years ago
Quoted from Devilsmuse:

j-9 and j-11 are not used on that connector you are holding.

Thanks, Devilsmuse.

#3879 3 years ago

I swapped the blue board with the new green board and it made things worse. That ball trough #2 is still showing as closed, and none of the new reciever leds activated when shining a flashlight. I put the blue board back in and am where I started earlier this week. At least most of the receiver leds activate. This is strange. I wonder if both transmitter and receiver boards need to be replaced...but the transmitter boards leds are all emitting purple light. This is wierd.

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#3880 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I swapped the blue board with the new green board and it made things worse. That ball trough #2 is still showing as closed, and none of the new reciever leds activated when shining a flashlight. I put the blue board back in and am where I started earlier this week. At least most of the receiver leds activate. This is strange. I wonder if both transmitter and receiver boards need to be replaced...but the transmitter boards leds are all emitting purple light. This is wierd.
[quoted image]

I swapped both boards and still having exact same issue.

#3883 3 years ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Looks like it’s missing ball #2 in the switch test, check for loose wire in the connector, You can move the balls with your finger or put a small piece of paper up in the trough to break the beam from underneath without the balls

Thanks, kdunbar. I ended up starting a new thread because this issue is still unresolved. I reseated the wires in the idc and all leds on both boards respond. Good news is that the boards work. Bad news is that the switch test still thinks there's no ball #2. After visually checking all switches to make sure diodes and wires are installed correctly, I continue having issues with that ball trough switch, and the left shooter coil fires intermittently. I won't go too much in detail but it's likely a short causing this wierdness, with nonstop multiball games and intermittent left shooter activation, or some bad diodes at row 5 switches. Well, that's what we're thinking at this point because the column/row switch matrix test at cpu board worked.

#3884 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Thanks, kdunbar. I ended up starting a new thread because this issue is still unresolved. I reseated the wires in the idc and all leds on both boards respond. Good news is that the boards work. Bad news is that the switch test still thinks there's no ball #2. After visually checking all switches to make sure diodes and wires are installed correctly, I continue having issues with that ball trough switch, and the left shooter coil fires intermittently. I won't go too much in detail but it's likely a short causing this wierdness, with nonstop multiball games and intermittent left shooter activation, or some bad diodes at row 5 switches. Well, that's what we're thinking at this point because the column/row switch matrix test at cpu board worked.

One area I haven't checked are those opto boards underneath the playfield. I may need to unplug the power to them and run a test, I guess.

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1 month later
#3916 3 years ago

Just ordered from planetary pinball. I hope they can resolve this issue. I'm shocked it came like this given the packaging.

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#3917 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Just ordered from planetary pinball. I hope they can resolve this issue. I'm shocked it came like this given the packaging.
[quoted image]

Good news is I got a response and they're going to replace this one.

#3920 3 years ago
Quoted from ibis:

So apparently Great Lakes Modular is not answering emails? Or not sure what is going on there, but I am pretty sure I have a bad Receiver Trough board and was looking to buy one but they are not responding and all the usual suspects-parts suppliers are out(last I looked). Anyone ever repaired one before? It seems most of the parts look available like the IC chips, diodes, etc.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/great-lakes-modular-still-in-business

#3922 3 years ago
Quoted from ibis:

I must have been under a rock....well that sucks! Any other source for the trough opto boards?

I bought mine from Pinball Life this past December.

https://www.pinballlife.com/7-opto-trough-board-set-for-williamsbally-widebody-pinball-machines.html

4 weeks later
#3937 3 years ago
Quoted from Preacher:

H!
I wrote a question in a new thread but got very little response. So I’m bluntly posting it again here, hoping that the other post just drown .
I should of course post it here from the start.
Hi!
When I position the playfield against the backbox it rests directly against the Caution, Emergency Vehicle Exit plastics. Its looks like there is just a matter of time until it snaps. Is it supposed to do that?
The plastic itself looks weird. Its positioned much higher up then the left counterpart (missile launch) which sits snug againts the playfield. The right Vehicle exit is elevated on longer screws for some reason. Anyone knows why? this elevated position is what cause it to rest on the backbox when the playfield is upright.
Anyone who has a solution for this? Im at a point when I am prone to remove the plastics everytime I lift the playfield.
/J

I have the exact same issue. I'm going to follow advice from PinRob.

2 weeks later
#3966 3 years ago

Guys,

Have any of you installed pinsound in your Dredd? I'm wanting to buy it for my Batman Data East but would like to have the option of installing it in my Dredd first ( testing purposes, and future upgrade ). Just wondering if I need to order additional parts for Dredd that's not shown in the screensot below. I'm not planning to replace the Dredd speakers at the moment...just seeing if I can easily swap the boards from original to pinsound. The reason I'm asking is because I want to try it out on Dredd before having a rebuilt Batman. In other words, I'm anxious to get a pinsound.

Thanks!

Screenshot_20210320-091418_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210320-091418_Chrome (resized).jpg
1 year later
#4438 1 year ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

I posted this question previously here, probably a few pages back. I've been on the fence about buying one, but I've heard CPRs' mirroring isn't that great, more just shiny silver without much mirror quality to it, and my translite looks fine. So it seems unecessarry to me. I'd have to see some better pictures of it or here from someone who bought one to really convince me.

Interesting. I saw Cary Hardy's video on his mirrored Johnny Mnemonic, and he seemed to be very pleased with the product. That makes me think JD would look good as well. I'm also interested in hearing from someone that has the JD backglass.

#4442 1 year ago
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:

Do you have a link to the video you can post? I'd be interested to see it.

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