Been thinking about switching up the star posts/rubbers a bit on my game. I currently have black star posts/black rubbers with blue flipper rubbers and yellow post sleeves. I really liked the look initially, but I think it's time to change it up. Thinking about switching to clear star posts and clear rubber rings (or glow in the dark for both) with maybe red flipper rubbers and red post sleeves....what do you guys think?

How many balls is the main multiball supposed to be? I thought I had read 4, but when I lock 3 in the dead world it will auto plunge 2 more to make it a 5 ball. 90% of the time this doesn’t cause any problems but 10% of the time I end up with 2 balls in play and the game thinks multiball is over, then when one of the two remaining balls drains my turn is over. After the second ball drains it will start auto plunging 2 balls every turn until I reset the game at which point it’s usually fine for another 10 games or so and then it will happen again.

Usually when the machine starts doing this kind of thing it's because 1 of the opto's isn't registering and the machine gets confused as to how many balls are in play. This could be a trough opto or can be the one at the crane drop from the deadworld ring. Best to check them all in test anyway and see what results you get. Wherever possible roll a ball through rather than blocking the opto with your finger.

I've had this problem before, definitely check trough optos.

Ended up going with clear star posts/clear rubber rings, red flipper rubbers, and I kept my yellow post sleeves. Also I swapped blue leds into the dead world instead of red. It looks pretty sweet altogether. I was debating on lighting up the star posts also but with the translucent posts and rings it doesn't seem necessary to me.

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Hi All,

Is anyone able and willing to use the lidar on their phone and an app to scan the topper for me.

Would love to attempt to 3D print one.

Cheers

Really? The toppers are still available from the original mold for a very reasonable fee. Shipping to Oz land might sour the deal though.

Can buy them from pinball sites here at a reasonable price yup.
Far cheaper than getting one from the US at the moment with the shit dollar conversion + ridiculous postage costs!!

Sold out in Aus, once you add shipping, gst & conversion its far from reasonable anymore unfortunately.

Damn, yeah just looked

Figured I’d ask here as well. Just picked up a Dredd and the deadworld mod thing seems pretty finicky. I had previously bent the crane drop trough guide, and that solved my problem for a few days, but now it’s acting up again. Seems like my crane just isn’t as snappy as other videos I’ve seen.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wokNgSymLoGpWQz9cg27TN5XvsIdqzrd/view

Your magnet is too weak. Check the voltage for the magnet. Maybe you have a poor connection at one of the connectors.

Does anyone know if the L-1D ROM chip is available anywhere to purchase yet?

I think the crane sits too low. I the video it looks like the magnet slams onto the balls in the ring. That's not how it should be. The magnet should barely touch the balls. As a result of this the crane cannot lift the balls high enough to clear the ring. Adjust the height of the crane and go from there.

The Soren thread has a key post (#2) that shows the updated ROMs, Post #1 lists authorized dealers. Dredd has not been done yet (as of July 4th, 2022).

Soren Updates:

CFTBL
Junk Yard
Road Show
Mousin Around
Theatre of Magic
Radical
Demolition Man

Keep an eye on that thread, it will be updated with any new ROMs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades

L1-D is available:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/page/11#post-6293784
Contact Meldenhut

Ahh yes! That appears to have fixed it. Thank you! I ran a few multiballs and it was dropping them through the trough again. It still seems like the crane is dropping them too soon, as one of them was dropped just before the bracket and shimmied out the right, so the opto didn’t see it. How do I adjust the timing of the crane?

Also, I have another problem. The drop targets freak out after about 30 minutes. They keep popping up and resetting like 5 times a second. I’m assuming it’s a heat problem, because if I wait an hour, it’s fine… and then after a while, they freak out again.

There is no adjustment for the crane timing. You can adjust the crane height, and the angle from left to right but not its amplitude. You can also adjust the disk under the globe that determines Position1 and Position2 but that is more work and should be the last thing to try. Like I said, it might be worth checking the voltage on that magnet to see if it is strong enough. That was the problem on mine.

For the drop targets, I would got in switch test mode when they start to go crazy. Don't forget to close the coin door.

Here’s a video of the drops freaking out. I let it rest for an hour, and sure enough, drops work perfectly again.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wZixlqOJCZXCUOmvy7m87KTkCwjgHcm9/view?usp=drivesdk

Just press in the high power cutoff switch, no need to shut the door. Better if you have the metal clip that goes over the switch to keep it in.

As clempo pointed out, the timing and amplitude of the crane are fixed. But I don't think the magnet strenght is your problem here. If the magnet is dropping the ball too early I would adjust the crane so that the ball is dropped just in the right spot. That means of course that the crane is a bit further away from the ring at pickup time. But the magnet should still be strong enough to lift the ball. It's a fine balancing act with those aging mechanisms and maybe you need to ajust the height again, but I think this will solve your problem.

Another common problem with the crane is an axle bent backwards because the crane got caught under the backbox when lowering the playfield. This breaks the crane plastic plus it makes the crane shorter and higher. The fix is to straighten the axle the best you can. This is unlikely your problem but is worth checking for.

So what happens in solenoid test for the drop target reset? Going off your vid it looks like the reset coil is shotgunning which can be a dodgy coil. If it tests ok normally then maybe there's a loose wire that's getting intermittent contact on the coil or a bad solder joint?? I've never encountered an issue with heat before nor heard of that happening in relation to the drops on this machine.

The weird thing is that it will behave totally fine if you let rest for a while. It’s only after maybe 30 or 40 minutes of gameplay, the drops start to freak out again. If it were a loose wire, you’d think it’d behave consistently inconsistent, haha.

I feel like I’m honing in on dialing this damn crane in, but some bastard musta locktited this hex screw. Literally twisted my 5/64 hex tool attempting to loosen it. Any tips on how to remove this?

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Can someone share the L1-AT rom with me? I can burn it myself. thanks in advance!

If you need to adjust your crane from left to right, there is a set screw in the back to tie the crane to its axle. You can reach the set screw through a round hole about half an inch down the top of the crane.

Hi All, going through my recently acquired JD. My air raid ramp is damaged/warped but still functional. I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement (looks like its a hard fine) but for the moment its playable.

However when the ball exits the ramp (air raid) onto the wire form, probably 80% of the time the ball ejects from the wire ramp to either side. When the ball is travelling slow its not an issue, but as that shot is one of the harder ones and needs to be hit flush its normally travelling at speed. Which it then ejects.

Any help/advise to adjust?

Its particularly frustrating to finally hit the shot and not get the reward!

Cheers

Make sure you have the correct coils installed, when I got mine I had the same issue with the right ramp and wire form. Wrong coil, too strong, was installed on left flipper. It still does it occasionally with a strong flip but not nearly as often.

How easy is it to replace the rubbers behind the drop targets? How much needs to be removed to get access? Thanks

It's not terrible, I just did it and also changed out the star posts. I believe it's just the plastics in the area, and both of the dead world disks. There may be a few screw from the ramp in that area you'll need remove. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes. Pro tip, if you have a spare rubber post sleeve, cut it in half and place one half on each post leading into the subway. The pieces should cover the bottom half of the post that aren't covered by the rubber ring. then put the rubber rings on the post, they shouldn't overlap the post sleeve you just put on but butt up right against it. This will keep the new rubber rings from getting chewed up.

Great tip, going to implement this today.

A friend of mine has a set of Mike Chestnut chromed triggers.

He never ended up installing them, and has since sold his game.

Anyone know what they might be worth?

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I've never seen a judge dredd with a gun handle mounted anywhere...are you sure it's not for something like demolition man? It looks nice though!

Now if there was a "lawgiver" gun handle mod that could be mounted on judge dredd I'd buy that in a second.

Oops, you're right. I'll post in the Demolition Man thread.

Thanks!

When I last replaced rubbers, I put silicon rings on those posts. They take a bunch of abuse without breaking, and they are cleanable. It does make the subway shot a bit more difficult too, as they tend to stick to the ball a bit more so they don't allow the ball to go in unless you really get it dead on. I kind of like the challenge.

Since I switched to L1-AT, and now L1-D, I've been having a problem that crops up on super games from time to time. If I get all the targets down during super game, and it start shooting all 6 balls out I sometimes get 2-3 balls stuck in the shooter lane. The game will go on until I loose all balls in play then nothing further will happen. No ball search happens, and I just have balls sitting there in the shooter. The only way to get past this is to tilt the machine, at which time the balls auto-shoot and then drain and the next ball starts like normal.

Has anyone else seen this? I know L-7 supposedly had some shooter logic improvements and I wonder if this was a fix for the issue. I really like the way L1-D plays though, other than this.

I have L-7 on my jd and this happens occasionally on my machine as well. The balls will eventually get kicked out during ball search and not require a tilt or reset. I would like to know what causes this as I am sure all my switches are working properly.

Anyone in The USA sell the dead world roms? Have the disc but l7 rom.

Matt's basement arcade has it.

Awesome thanks what's the difference between l1 and l1at?

L1 was for proto-type machines. You want L1-AT or even better L1-D, which is an un-official release that improved on L1-AT:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/85#post-6658665

Okay, so I’m really starting to think my drop targets are possessed.

Took apart the entire drop target assembly and cleaned it thoroughly, all of the optos, etc.

Played perfectly for the last few days, so I thought I had figured out the problem.

Today? possessed drop targets again. But testing them works fine, just during gameplay they freak out as soon as I complete the JUDGE drops.

So bizarre…

Yup, just went into test mode, and all of the drops work 100% like they should. Both the center specific drop and the bank reset. Did a dozen or more in a row. Flawless.

But as soon as I start a game and spell JUDGE, the drops get stuck in this resetting / freak out loop.

(Video of the drops)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wZixlqOJCZXCUOmvy7m87KTkCwjgHcm9/view?usp=drivesdk

I’m starting to think this is software. Problematic rom maybe?

I’m on 20020 D-1

Could be software related. If you have another software version, you can quickly rule that out.
Does it happen in normal and super game?

To me it looks more like a mechanical/electrical issue. When the DT’s are down the light to the optos is blocked and the DT-reset coil is activated. The vibrations caused by the coil could trigger a marginal connection to/on the DT-board. The optos would go on and off in rapid succession, giving the result you are seeing.

If it happens again I would put the game in switchtest and start pounding with your fist on the playfield near the DT’s. If that doesn’t trigger any switches, take the balls out and put the playfield in the upright position. Move the plunger of the reset coil by hand and slam it upwards. Let us know what you find out.

What KoP said!
Also, do check your +12V and ground going to the drops while a game is running/the possession occurs (PDB J118 Pin 2 and 3) - if possible also on the DT board. If this voltage breaks down during the reset the opto supply might be too low so that it would appear to the game as if the targets were all down again. If the supply voltage is okay, check the connectors and pins of J118 and on the opto board.

Another option might be the driver IC or pre-driver transistor for the reset coil being flaky when there is some noise. Swap U5 and Q61 on the PDB, however the above seems more likely to me.

ColorDMD-Led version installed. Been a long time coming, I'm so glad I was finally able to get one! This thing is sweet! The colors are nice and bright; the pictures do a poor job of capturing how great this thing looks! If you don't have one, get one!

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Just added lighted pinball speaker Grill. They really make the look, and do not cause any reflection issues on the glass while playing.

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This is pretty cool! I was just thinking I needed to add this to my machine after installing the color dmd screen.