Quoted from denzo:If I set it to "no", it wont let me to play (yu wanna play? Yu gotta pay!)....
So...Does it matter if I put it to US region?
That means you have L-1. So now you can order L1AT and play!
Quoted from denzo:If I set it to "no", it wont let me to play (yu wanna play? Yu gotta pay!)....
So...Does it matter if I put it to US region?
That means you have L-1. So now you can order L1AT and play!
Quoted from KoP:That means you have L-1. So now you can order L1AT and play!
Yes, it seems...
---
I have just recognized a - possible - weird (?) phenomena; is it normal if I press the flippers just gently only the low flippers flip, but a little bit it feels stronger. (I know, there are two optos, so it is normal the two 'phase', but the power?)
Need some help. My upper right flipper has decided to stop working. Where should I look first? Thank you in advance for any help
Quoted from drwicket:Need some help. My upper right flipper has decided to stop working. Where should I look first? Thank you in advance for any help
Fuse on controller board in head.
Quoted from LORDDREK:Fuse on controller board in head.
So I changed out the fuse and it worked for about three seconds then blew again.
Quoted from drwicket:So I changed out the fuse and it worked for about three seconds then blew again.
Sounds like you might have a bad transistor on the driver board. I had a similar issue with the right shooter coil that was causing the fuse to blow. Ended up replacing a transistor and that fixed the issue.
I don't have much time on this game, thinking of getting one. If the deadworld motor is dead on this game, does it impact gameplay in any noticeable way?
Quoted from roffels:I don't have much time on this game, thinking of getting one. If the deadworld motor is dead on this game, does it impact gameplay in any noticeable way?
Well for starters, if you have the virtual lock (stock) installed, when the 3rd ball is locked a diverter will activate sending it into Deadworld. If the motor isn’t working then the ball will be stuck. If it has the physical locking ring mod, then same issue except more balls will be stuck.
Quoted from roffels:I don't have much time on this game, thinking of getting one. If the deadworld motor is dead on this game, does it impact gameplay in any noticeable way?
When I got my machine, the deadworld was not working correctly. The PO bent out the guide so that the ball would just drop onto the playfield. 90% of the time it worked. When it didn't I had to pull the glass off to get the ball out.
All ... found and ran the original tooling for the Judge Dredd Planet 03-8858 in RED TRANSPARENT - this was to be the original color of the planet on JD (from the blueprints) and was changed late in the process to what it was on production. All as original except the color!
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-88581&Store_Code=PP
03-88581 (resized).jpg03-88581A (resized).jpgOther than my Doctor Who I've had my Judge Dredd out route the 2nd longest on location,
so many places like comic shops and bars!
OK guys,
received an eprom reader to make the file from Australia (living in Belgium ! Thx Warren !!
Just took about 2 months to fly over and pass the customs circus.
I have the ROM file available. You want it ? Send me a PM with your e-mail, I'll send it over.
When we meet (probably never), you owe me and Warren a beer
Quoted from bartron:I changed the smaller Deadworld ring to translucent blue, it makes a noticeable difference.
[quoted image]
Without the ring system, it looks empty, and the rotation is almost invisible.
IMG_7374 - Version 2 (resized).jpgHi Everyone, just got my first ever pin. A Judge Dredd which has been owned privately by the same guy since 1995. Even found the original receipt from 1995 for £375 cash tucked away under the playfield. I'm a complete noob but thanks to this group I have learnt how to fettle the left EOS flipper as it was weak and fix the sniper tower solinod plastic ball popper had snapped. Got a full LED kit on order and a colorDMD LCD.
20211219_110637 (resized).jpg20211219_110652 (resized).jpgQuoted from OldTor:Hi Everyone, just got my first ever pin.
Congratulations! Nice game. That was my first pinball to own as well. Welcome aboard!
Anyone have the CPR custom mirrored back glass? I've been thinking about getting it for a while, just not sure if it's a noticeable difference to the translite. I really like the look of older style back glasses vs newer translites. Just curious to know if anyone on here has bought this back glass and what their thoughts are on it.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/judgedredd/
Quoted from Foxxstone_80:Anyone have the CPR custom mirrored back glass? I've been thinking about getting it for a while, just not sure if it's a noticeable difference to the translite. I really like the look of older style back glasses vs newer translites. Just curious to know if anyone on here has bought this back glass and what their thoughts are on it.
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/judgedredd/
Wow that is sharp! I’d be interested too. I wonder how the backlighting shines thru?
Quoted from LORDDREK:Wow that is sharp! I’d be interested too. I wonder how the backlighting shines thru?
I would think it'd be a bit more muted than translite, but the color would probably be richer. I initially put 2smd bulbs behind the translite but it looked a bit washed out to me. I bet with the back glass 2smd bulbs would be ideal.
Does anyone have any tips for removing the planet motor and gears from the playfield? I need to send mine off to be rebuilt by Steve at PBR, and it would be good to know if there's anything to watch out for on the disassembly.
Quoted from Harrumph:Does anyone have any tips for removing the planet motor and gears from the playfield? I need to send mine off to be rebuilt by Steve at PBR, and it would be good to know if there's anything to watch out for on the disassembly.
Okay, assembly is out, but I'm not sure how the bottom of the planet and the bracket assembly come off. Is there a hidden molex connector in the shaft that I need to pull out to remove the light board, or am I missing something?
20211221_210033 (resized).jpgQuoted from Harrumph:Okay, assembly is out, but I'm not sure how the bottom of the planet and the bracket assembly come off. Is there a hidden molex connector in the shaft that I need to pull out to remove the light board, or am I missing something?
Refer you to my post #1999 (2nd last post on Page 40) shows you how to remove the lower half of the planet and all the extras.
Quoted from Mancave:Refer you to my post #1999 (2nd last post on Page 40) shows you how to remove the lower half of the planet and all the extras.
Thank you! That's exactly what I needed to know. Looks like it's time to break out the soldering iron...
Quick question, I tried to put an Led in the start button, it didn’t fit right and would not snap back together so I put the incandescent back in and it still won’t fit back together.
Thoughts?
Quoted from Sundog:Quick question, I tried to put an Led in the start button, it didn’t fit right and would not snap back together so I put the incandescent back in and it still won’t fit back together.
Thoughts?
LEDs that I get are too fat to fit inside the button. I trim off the outer ring and then the go inside.
You have to really push to get the switch to snap back into the button housing.
Quoted from Stebel:LEDs that I get are too fat to fit inside the button. I trim off the outer ring and then the go inside.
You have to really push to get the switch to snap back into the button housing.
Thanks
Quoted from FieldDog1:Hi all just joined the club, put in a pinsound and added the TNA soundtrack and it’s awesome! Glad to be part of the team!
Welcome! 4 times welcome
Quoted from Davi:Welcome! 4 times welcome
lol rookie mistake, my bad, had some trouble posting
Quoted from rvermeire:OK guys,
received an eprom reader to make the file from Australia (living in Belgium ! Thx Warren !!
Just took about 2 months to fly over and pass the customs circus.
I have the ROM file available. You want it ? Send me a PM with your e-mail, I'll send it over.
When we meet (probably never), you owe me and Warren a beer
[quoted image]
This ROM is great. Thanks for sharing!
I copied the text from the img you posted, in case anyone wants to print out the changes on a clean sheet:
https://videopenny.com/images/Dredd_L-1D.rtf
Have any of you guys tested the L-1D version in a multiplayer/public environment?
Original L-1AT had lots of problems there. One thing I remember is if you start a game with 2 balls on the ring and have 1 ball roll into there without lock lit, then the machine would go into ball search, release all 3 balls and be totally broken gameplaywise from that point on. There were other bugs where one players multiball would affect other the players' game, but I don't recall the details there.
It'd be awesome if this L-1D would finally allow for deadworld locks!
Quoted from cynric:It'd be awesome if this L-1D would finally allow for deadworld locks!
I have been able to get it confused (and seen the worst case scenario described below) but I just took the glass off an ran your scenario and it worked fine.
· Corrected the problem that occurs when a ball misses the planet exit switch
1. Best case scenario: the problem is detected and corrected immediately and you won't even notice you had a problem. This is usually the case if the problem occurs at the start of multiball.
2. Worst case scenario: the problem is detected and corrected at the end of the game(s) in progress
Almost through installing the pinbulbs JD ultimate LED kit,and I've managed to snap one of the original bulbs on the PCB under deadwood...
Has anyone got any hints for getting the remainging glass out of the black bulb holder, which has snapped off and still inside the bulb holder?
Quoted from FieldDog1:Hi all just joined the club, put in a pinsound and added the TNA soundtrack and it’s awesome! Glad to be part of the team
I like how that sounds with the add on
Quoted from Sundog:In order to replace a broken drop target, do you have to remove the whole drop target assembly?
Yes. They are held in place by a shaft and an e clamp. You may be able to get the broken one out if it has broken on the bottom but you certainly won’t get a new one in without taking the mechanism out of the game.. well I guess you could, but it would be way more difficult
Hi all, having a bit of trouble with my right flipper. For some reason, I can’t cradle the bottom right flipper, when I hold the button it just does one hard flip then won’t stay up. The upper right flipper is working just fine. Luckily I own a World Cup 94 and tried the below remedies by trying out different parts but no success. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
All items listed below I tried with no success
1. Tested all optos in the test menu
2. Tried using right flipper opto board from WC94
3. Tried using fliptronics board from WC94
4. Replaced coil stop and EOS switch
5. Adjusted EOS switch every which way
Quoted from FieldDog1:Hi all, having a bit of trouble with my right flipper. For some reason, I can’t cradle the bottom right flipper, when I hold the button it just does one hard flip then won’t stay up. The upper right flipper is working just fine. Luckily I own a World Cup 94 and tried the below remedies by trying out different parts but no success. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
All items listed below I tried with no success
1. Tested all optos in the test menu
2. Tried using right flipper opto board from WC94
3. Tried using fliptronics board from WC94
4. Replaced coil stop and EOS switch
5. Adjusted EOS switch every which way
Did you replace the coil? Your hold winding could be broken.
Either that or the corresponding power transistor on the Fliptronic board.
Everything else (wiring, transistor driver, logic) is rather unlikely.
Quoted from cynric:Either that or the corresponding power transistor on the Fliptronic board.
Everything else (wiring, transistor driver, logic) is rather unlikely.
I did try switching the fliptronics board from my WC94 machine and still same problem sadly.
Quoted from Jmckune:Did you replace the coil? Your hold winding could be broken.
Do haven’t tried that yet. I do already have a replacement coil so let me try that tonight and hope it works. Thank you!
Quoted from FieldDog1:Do haven’t tried that yet. I do already have a replacement coil so let me try that tonight and hope it works. Thank you!
You're troubleshooting so far is great. Two suggestions:
1. Try re-flowing the solder on the connections both at the controller board and at the coil lugs.
2. Here's a long-shot if the coil replacement and/or reflow doesn't work: I've seen weird things happen with flipper behaviour when the coil stop and/or the entire bracket get magnetized. I had this happen on my WH2O and a friend's Getaway. You can either use a de-gauss coil, an old magnetic tape/drive eraser to de-magnetize or physically strike the suspected magnetized metal part with a hammer. Remove the assembly from the playfield and remove the the coil and all hardware. Use the coil or eraser to demagnetize the bracket and stop. Alternatively, use a hammer to strike the bracket and separately the stop a few times. Don't pound the parts until they deform. Re-assemble and try. This worked for me for a while but the odd behavior returned after several weeks. I eventually replaced the bracket and haven't had a problem since.
Quoted from OldTor:Almost through installing the pinbulbs JD ultimate LED kit,and I've managed to snap one of the original bulbs on the PCB under deadwood...
Has anyone got any hints for getting the remainging glass out of the black bulb holder, which has snapped off and still inside the bulb holder?
those sockets usually have a small hole/slot at the base you can stick something through and clear any debris
Quoted from Sundog:In order to replace a broken drop target, do you have to remove the whole drop target assembly?
Yep. It's pretty straighforward. And its a good chance to give all the target mechs a clean to ensure smooth running.
Quoted from Jmckune:Did you replace the coil? Your hold winding could be broken.
Hi all, replaced the entire coil as well but still the same problem. Really not sure what else to diagnose, any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks all!
So I did a continuity test with my multimeter on the J902 on the fliptronics board and found the wires that control the hold on the flipper. Did the continuity test and, nothing between Pin 11 and 13 while the others worked. So it must be a break in the wiring from the BB to PF.
I am not sure what to do now though, should I just try to follow the wires and see if there are any breaks? Thanks again!
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