That’s a good call. Thanks !

I joined the club a week ago. My machine worked fine for a week, but now it continuously launches balls. It's never ending. It's like the machine thinks the drain shield is enabled and we are in 6 ball multiball. I turn off the machine, turn it back on, choose regulation play (NOT supergame), then it starts doing this immediately. Any idea what could cause this?

Opto board on the trough, usually the culprit, may be that the wire connector came loose

Agree!! It's the most likely culprit when you're talking about repeatedly ejecting balls out of the trough, although any of the opto's not working can cause weird issues with extra balls on the PF, especially the ball drop at the crane.

Mine did the same. Had it for a week in the garage playing it every night and it played fine. Had some work buddies over on the Friday to hep get it in the house and we all played it till late. Got up in the morning and turned it on and balls fired continuously from the shooter lane.
Did some reading on the problem then made a trip to a local electronics shop and bought some generic 5mm opto tx and rx diodes and spent the afternoon soldering them into the trough boards. That was 6 years ago and it's been fine since.

Dear JD Owners,
can someone tell me how can I change the cabinet speaker crossover frequency? Somewhere I have read that it is 300Hz. I have replaced the cabinet speaker (backbox too), put a 50kohm potentiometer onto the R33, and everything is fine, I can change the cabinet speaker volume, but the cab speaker has too much high frequency so the overall sounding quality is not so nice. (giving frequencies above 100hz to a sub will be not so good)
What I want is cut the freqs above 200hz (or 100, test will tell it).

Thanks guys. I had never seen that behavior before. I will look at that trough board pronto.

Hi guys, need your help...
My tempered glass just expoded.
I need to order a new widebody glass for my Dredd.
Does anyone know the extact glass size please? (better in cm)
thanks!

Google makes things so incredibly simple. It's quicker than typing out a question and waiting for an answer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=widebody+glass+size+in+cm&rlz=1C1GCEB_enAU950AU950&oq=widebody+glass+size+in+cm&aqs=chrome..69i57.8447j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks for the answer and the link.
I was googling bad keywords.

Standard glass is 533mm x 1092mm x 5mm
Williams/Bally Widebody glass is 603mm x 1092mm x 5mm

Yep. Plug to the opto board comes off and that is what happens. Plugged wire hangs down right by the coin door so it’s easy to snag. Mine plugs in rather loosely and has just come off on its own a few times now.

sadly this didn´t help. Is there a easy way to know if the balls are magnetised?

Put the balls on a flat even surface, bring two of them together and see if they stick to each other (when you can drag one by moving the other). Repeat in all combinations until you can tell which ones are magnetized (those sticking to all others) and which ones are not. Replace magnetized balls. Enjoy JD.

The best and simplest way, I find, is to use a paperclip.
If it sticks, the ball is magnetized.
Using the balls can be a bit deceptive as they are heavy.

Thanks! Is there a way to demagnetize them?

New balls are like 2€.. If you dont want to throw them away, use them for single-ball machines, fill a candy dispenser with them, turn them into a key chain, make a mobile for your kids,...

Two ways that I know of.
1: Pass the ball through an electromagnetic coil.
2: Heat the ball to about 500-600 degrees celsius. Unfortunately this method removes the shiny finish and blackens the balls, if you use a blow torch.
The obvious answer is to replace them, but i would love a coil to demagnetize as i have an ACNC which uses strong magnets and has problems with magnetized balls.

Can someone tell me which switch triggers this animation? I have a phantom switch thing going on

BDF994AB-23C3-4055-A66C-4154E4998888 (resized).jpeg

I can’t see what it’s doing for sure but I believe that is left ramp

Thanks I found it. It’s the center “Black out” ramp opto

I'm having a problem with my flippers which I'm pretty sure is related to the leaf spring switches they are using. I would like to convert to an opto board, my question is, what is the difference if I use this, https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-1-flipper-opto-board-single-side.html or use these two together, https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-type-2-opto-board-replacement.html and https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-opto-interrupter.html .The second option is less than half the price. Would either of the two options work?

Dredd has a custom piece for the left? switch

Yes, standard opto set doesn't fit.
The blade and the bracket are custom.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/judge-dredd-flipper-opto-assembly-left-hand

But either of these options would work for the right side, correct?

I’m pretty sure factory is the plastic one on the right, but i don’t see why you couldn’t run the older one.

I'm going to go with the type 2 board and 3d print an opto interrupter that would work with the left side.

I have what now appears to be 100% functioning JD but there is one small quirk that may just be part of the programming.

When the extra ball stand up by left orbit gets hit it triggers the crime scene at small center orbit between dead world and blackout ramp. My reasoning that this is as intended is the little 2” flipper orbit can be quite a pain to hit reliably and it it a shortcut to advance.

Any opinions on this? Thanks!

Could I ask a favor please...

Can someone take pictures and measurements of the parts needed under the shooter lane plastics please? The shooter lane plastics on each side are elevated (for an apparent reason I found out) and I need to know what parts / sizes are used to mount those plastics that high off of the rails underneath. I mounted mine low when it was rebuilt and do not have the riser parts anymore. And just to dissuade anyone from lowering their plastics, apparently on the launches (more on the right), they happen so quickly (multiball) and with enough power that some of the balls catch the end of the plastic and will rip them right out of the wood rails. This is obviously why they raised them originally. They look a lot better low, but no bueno...

Thanks in advance for the help!

EDIT: And it has been a while since my JD was torn down. Are both sides elevated or just the right side? I know for a fact that the right side was, I just cant remember if the left side was done to match? Anyway, again, any help is appreciated.

Few pictures...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/79#post-6165889

Few more...

DSC_2357 (resized).JPG

DSC_2414 (resized).JPG

DSC_2419 (resized).JPG

DSC_2427 (resized).JPG

The spacer:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=03-8371

Perfect Davi, thank you... So that spacer is the correct size then? I appreciate the detailed photos. Yeah, now I remember, the left side is flush with the rail, but the right is raised. Always looked strange to me, but now I understand why the shooter lane was raised.

hi everybody, i'm an happy owner of a jd, i tryed to read something about but too long to search,
so i try to ask you:

first: i'm looking for the deadworld mod, i found somewhere there was a cad design for the ring with holes, can you please tell me where to find?

second: i've seen i need the L1AT file, can someone share it with me?

third: the chimneys mod: i saw i need the simpsons parts and the designs to put on them, but is there a kit to let me mount them on the playfield?
thanks to everybody

I’ve had some issues with the super game mode and that the game eject a third ball after a while and revert back to standard game when 2 balls are still on the play field. I’ve tried to insert a trough protector, checked if the balls are magnetized, checked the crane opto but to no avail. I read on some other forum that there might be a glitch in on of the trough optos that might show up when the game vibrates i.e. using the flippers.
I tried this approach and I found out that the switch 82 trough opto 5 reacts when I use the flippers sometimes. So it seems that I found the error! But how do I proceed?

Just rejoined the club after a long absence. I haven't shopped it out yet but I wanted to share my Dead world ring. It always bugged me that the ring blocked the Cursed Earth plastics so I cut this today. I think once the machine is all cleaned up it will be an improvement. Your thoughts?

D8646114-35C5-46FF-BF90-E09B795D2615 (resized).jpeg

Looks great! Now mod that crane…

I looked in the shop today and didn’t see anything available. I’ll go back in this thread and see if I can find one. The physical recreation of the plastic looks really nice.

I can't offer much help with the first two since I don't have the deadworld mod. But for #3, I bought these cooling towers. They were easy to install and look great.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1134-devilsmuse-arcade/03628-judge-dredd-lighted-cooling-towers

My post from a few pages back with the cooling towers installed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/81#post-6268261

Davi makes the best crane mod. Send him a PM here on Pinside

Thanks. Just sent them a PM.

Dear JD owners,
I have the L1AT rom, the ring, replaced both of them. Guess what happened? Nothing changed.
Oh, no, after the second virtual lock the third ball "locked" virtually too... Great.
I have checked the diverter and the left ramp optos, they are working fine! Except in the test the left ramp optos switch 67 says "not used". But it is working.
So, now I have the DW mod, but unusable...
I have read something about the switch 67/32 problem, but everywhere said that the DW mod is working fine without any further modifications.
Btw I have a normal production game (left ramp opto is halfway up on the ramp, no gunner just crosshairs on the snipertower).

http://www.iobium.com/judge_dredd_locking_ring_mod.htm

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only?tq=Switch+32&tu=

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only?tq=Switch+67&tu=

I am in the same situation as in Automata90.
No solution. Could someone - who has a NORMAL production machine - confirm, that the DW mod only works with an additional opto board?
If it is the case than it is not true that a L1AT rom and a modificated ring is enough for a proper - originally planned - working Deadworld.
It seems, that the L1AT rom programmed for a prototype machine, which had a switch 32 - at the start of the left ramp - that activate the diverter. Later (normal production) machines has switch 67 (halfway up on the left ramp) which is activated the diverter after the second virtual lock ball, instead of switch 32.

Deny it if it is not true.

Must admit i'm confused. My machine is a regular production not the proto type but i only needed to swap to the L1AT rom and change over the ring for the deadworld mod to work, there was NO addition of any extra opto boards or anything like that. Unfortunately my machine is still in bits awaiting cab decal restore so i can't do any testing for switch numbers etc.

Haaahh! Thanks!

Now I totally do not understand what is going on...
Someone has a working DW mod, others don't. And doesn't matter it is a proto or normal prod machine...

@aeonblack, I found your post a couple of nights ago and I just want to say thank you. I was having hell figuring out why my Dredd was losing track of the number of balls on the playfield while all my optos were working just fine. I have been playing for a couple of hours now and all is working as it should. I did use plastic sleeve washers instead but it did the trick.

I am final done shopping this beast out. It was filthy when I got it but I'm happy with how it turned out. I have one molex connector to add and then I'm ready to play some games and really get everything fine tuned.

E24232D2-C0C1-4B45-84F4-451E5BC9B0CE (resized).jpeg

New to the club ! Picked up my Judge last weekend to complete my family (Wh2o, Shadow, Getaway, W?D, F14).
Game/playfield, electronics in mint condition. Faded cabinet and will have to replace side back box stickers (damaged)

Took me about a week in spare time to kind of read al 83 pages ! Very interesting info and mods such as sniper tower, cooling reactors and crane.
Already have the yellow crane on mine and will keep that one. Cooling Reactors and sniper will come in.
Have 3 ROMs on hand and L-1D is currently installed. I can choose between real lock or virtual lock.

Considering Pin2DMD but not sure the beta files are worth the display investment. No feedback on the topic in the group, only on the expensive Color DMD's. Anyone tried it or has it installed?

Will be adding lights in the eagle eyes, add side art blades from Tilt Gr and get some extra spot lights in playfield and blue leds near sniper.

Also looking for this specific apron ID card :

ID card apron (resized).JPG

Never heard of L-1D with the option to choose lock style. Can you tell us more about this one?
Likely being based on L1, does it still have the many bugs in multiplayer games that only got fixed in the later ringless versions?