(Topic ID: 40984)

Dredd Owners Thread. Members Only!


By Anim8ormatt

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by Devilsmuse
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There are 3677 posts in this topic. You are on page 73 of 74.
#3601 52 days ago

Yeah, I like the always-on look. The great thing about this mod is that there are so many options, you can do what you like!

#3602 50 days ago

My Dredd us coming along. Star post lighting, clear rubbers, Sniper Tower and Nuclear Cooling Towers mods. Next are shaker motor and Pinstadium lights.

20200408_110625 (resized).jpg
#3603 50 days ago

chitownpinhead wow looking great! Shaker motor on dredd sounds awesome!

#3604 49 days ago

Shout out to calfdemon for helping me get a working dmd. Now I can run diagnostics and move this pin upstairs.

#3605 49 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Shout out to calfdemon for helping me get a working dmd. Now I can run diagnostics and move this pin upstairs.

Glad it arrived and all works well!

#3606 48 days ago

Hey Guys,

I'm going through my new purchase, trying to account for all unattached wires and parts. So far, I'm missing the 2 large backbox bolts that are vertically inserted to top of cabinet. I also noticed a stray green ground and I'm trying to find it's place

Are these bolts that I can buy from the hardware store? I'll double-check the manual.

Do you guys recognize this ground? I can try finding it in the Pinside Shopout pics.

Any info on these items is greatly appreciated!
20200410_153840 (resized).jpg

#3607 48 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
Do you guys recognize this ground? I can try finding it in the Pinside Shopout pics.
Any info on these items is greatly appreciated!
[quoted image]

Easy.

JD_cab (resized).JPG
#3608 48 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Easy.[quoted image]

Thanks, Davi!

#3609 48 days ago

I'm still having problems with my left flipper. Almost no power. We replaced it with a new flipper kit. Still the same. We removed the optos and cleaned them up, still the same issue (doesn't go up right ramp at all). Someone told us to try and SWITCH SIDES for the optos but that doesn't look like it would work as they are 2 different optos and seemingly meant to be on their proper side (see pics below). Any suggestions?

IMG_3485 (resized).JPGIMG_3486 (resized).JPG
#3610 48 days ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I'm still having problems with my left flipper. Almost no power. We replaced it with a new flipper kit. Still the same. We removed the optos and cleaned them up, still the same issue (doesn't go up right ramp at all). Someone told us to try and SWITCH SIDES for the optos but that doesn't look like it would work as they are 2 different optos and seemingly meant to be on their proper side (see pics below). Any suggestions?[quoted image][quoted image]

JD has a unique and hard to replace left flipper opto board, but you should still be able to plug in the right board to test even if you can't actually install it.

#3611 48 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

JD has a unique and hard to replace left flipper opto board, but you should still be able to plug in the right board to test even if you can't actually install it.

Thanks so you're suggesting we "test it" to see if the opto is the problem so that we can order a new one if that's the case, right?

#3612 47 days ago

Hey Guys,

I'm looking for some tips on a few items. So far, I'm all caught up with this thread (took 4 days off/on to read all posts).

1. I remember someone installing a playfield protector. I bought one for Dredd but wonder how deep I need to go with removing Deadworld. Worst case, I'll figure it out like I did for TMNT and DP Pro.

2. I want to preserve the backglass paint. There are a few scratches but nothing too severe. Has anyone here added triple thick clear to the backside of their Dredd backglass? I did it for ASM and seemed to lock in the paint. Just want to make sure this backglass won't have some wierd reaction with the clear...I don't know.

3. I haven't run the switch, coil, or lamp diagnostics, but gameplay seems to be working as intended (without understanding all rules at this point). Deadworld rotates and captures all 3 balls before multi-ball release via crane drop. I did select ENTER before gameplay and the test report said to check switches for SW 61 Globe Pos, and all Flipper SW E.O.S. I'll have to dig into those issues later because there is a dot showing after Freeplay text in DMD.

As always, I appreciate the support. I'm just glad I was able to get this big boy upstairs by myself (ouch, my shoulder is hurting from patting myself on the back )

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#3613 47 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I want to preserve the backglass paint.

Dredd has a translite, not a backglass. I have never heard of putting clear on a translite. If you are worried about more scratches, cut a thin piece of clear plastic to the same size as the translite, and sandwich it in the channel pieces with the translite. With the clear piece on the backside of course.

#3614 47 days ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

Dredd has a translite, not a backglass. I have never heard of putting clear on a translite. If you are worried about more scratches, cut a thin piece of clear plastic to the same size as the translite, and sandwich it in the channel pieces with the translite. With the clear piece on the backside of course.

Thanks! For some reason I thought translites were those flimsy translucent sheets that allow light to shine through, illuminating colors. This Dredd glass had me fooled.

#3615 47 days ago

Tinkering around today installing my Pinstadium lights. Here's the comparison shot.

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#3616 47 days ago
Quoted from ChiTownPinHead:

Tinkering around today installing my Pinstadium lights. Here's the comparison shot.[quoted image]

Are Pinstadium lights really needed for DM? There is nothing going on at the top of the game, like lanes or bumpers, so lighting is cosmetic. The center of the playfield is pretty well lit. I would rather add a spotlight or two for an area like the sniper tower and the inside ramp shot.

My comment is not meant to be critical of your choice rather suggest how light could be added far more cost effectively - $10 vs nearly $300. The extra dough could be used for sniper tower mod, crane mod, lit targets, ROM upgrades and you would STILL have some money in your pocket. Or spend a few more bucks over the Pinstadium and get Color DMD which looks spectacular with Dredd.

#3617 47 days ago

Dredd is one of the darkest playfields from the era in my opinion. Nothing a few 2SMD and strategically placed super bright LED bulbs can't handle, but it must have been a hard to see in a dark room when outfitted with standard incandescent bulbs. It would be a great candidate for pinstadiums or spots.

#3618 46 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

Are Pinstadium lights really needed for DM? There is nothing going on at the top of the game, like lanes or bumpers, so lighting is cosmetic. The center of the playfield is pretty well lit. I would rather add a spotlight or two for an area like the sniper tower and the inside ramp shot.
My comment is not meant to be critical of your choice rather suggest how light could be added far more cost effectively - $10 vs nearly $300. The extra dough could be used for sniper tower mod, crane mod, lit targets, ROM upgrades and you would STILL have some money in your pocket. Or spend a few more bucks over the Pinstadium and get Color DMD which looks spectacular with Dredd.

I already added the mods you mentioned. I bought the "Fusion" set of Pinstadiums so they do add to the experience. I'm waiting to wire up the Fusion feature and shaker motor so they fire off at the same time.

#3619 46 days ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

Thanks so you're suggesting we "test it" to see if the opto is the problem so that we can order a new one if that's the case, right?

Yup I would. I also found the standard type of opto board just fitted on the left hand side between the 2 buttons so I didn't need to try and source the hard to find specific board for that side.

#3620 46 days ago

Added an operator to the Sniper Tower.

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1 week later
#3621 39 days ago

Hey Guys,

Yesterday, I spent hours taking apart JD playfield, replaced all flipper coil stops/sleeves/springs, cleaned entire playfield and all plastics, replaced rubber rings/posts, and added a playfield protector. I was able to clean many of the optic switches and removed almost all errors from test report. This is a fun pin.

I'm still getting a Switch Error for Globe Position 1 (SW 61). After researching this forum and googling other sites, it seems this could be due to a dirty switch, non-working switch (replacement needed), or a ROM issue (for Deadworld Mod). The opening DMD displays version L1, and I'm assuming this, coupled with an assumed Deadworld mod, is causing the error. I pulled what I think is the switch board containing SW61 (see pic of dirty switches) and cleaned both switches. Cleaning did not seem to help, but I was able to remove all other switch errors by cleaning leaf switch contacts and other optic switches.

Any feedback you guys have on this notorious SW 61 issue is much appreciated.

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#3622 39 days ago

First, off, the optos look dirty based off of the pic. Give it a good cleaning. There are replacements for that board and they aren't too expensive.

Second, JD playfields are pretty damn durable. I have had several pfs (including one I'm throwing up for sale) and they are usually in exceedingly good shape. I'm not sure a pf protector is really needed on this game.

#3623 39 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

First, off, the optos look dirty based off of the pic. Give it a good cleaning. There are replacements for that board and they aren't too expensive.
Second, JD playfields are pretty damn durable. I have had several pfs (including one I'm throwing up for sale) and they are usually in exceedingly good shape. I'm not sure a pf protector is really needed on this game.

Thanks, robotron! I might need to do another cleaning. Also, thanks for the playfield feedback. I was very surprised how nice this playfield looked when it arrived. Didn't realize they were known to be durable. With that said, the protector is already installed and I like how it works (personal preference for a controversial product).

Thanks

#3624 39 days ago

I went ahead and cleaned the optos for that sw 61 globe position. Unfortunately, the credit dot is still linked to SW 61 in the test report. I read somewhere that certain switches that aren't activated for 30 or so games will trigger this error. I'm not sure if this relates to SW 61 but removing the batteries and resetting time/date cleared all test report errors, and removed the dot. Just wanted to share this info.
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#3625 39 days ago

Alternately, you could always run a few test games and activate the planet to see if it's working fine.

#3626 39 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Alternately, you could always run a few test games and activate the planet to see if it's working fine.

I did. It does work. I'll keep my eye on it for the next 30 or so games.

#3627 38 days ago

I don't mean to be a regular pest on this forum, but I noticed my Super Game switch has never activated since this game became mine. At first, I thought it could be an issue with freeplay and required credits. Well, when entering switch test, the micro switch ( still making click sound ) does not activate. It's wierd because the button flasher, which is tied to the power driver board, works. I'm thinking of starting at the diode, then maybe considering a new micro switch. Just curious if my current wiring setup is correct ( in pics and sketch ). Not that this would affect the switch, but a yellow wire with orange stripes is shown instead of a yellow-gray wire (noticed 2 yellow-gray wires attached to START button micro switch). Can anyone confirm whether my Super Game wires are correctly attached? I think they're good, but just looking to rule this out of possible problems.

Thanks!

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#3628 38 days ago

I'll get downstairs later today and take a pic of mine for you. I had to replace my whole button for 'Start' and it's the same style button for 'Super Game'. I think I paid $10 for it, if it is indeed the switch.

#3629 38 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

I'll get downstairs later today and take a pic of mine for you. I had to replace my whole button for 'Start' and it's the same style button for 'Super Game'. I think I paid $10 for it, if it is indeed the switch.

Thanks, Mr-Frog! I'm hoping it's something as simple as replacing the switch and/or diode.

#3630 38 days ago

The outer portion of my Supergame switch stopped making mechanical contact with the inner small plunger. After adjusting the alignment it has been fine ever since.

#3631 38 days ago
Quoted from HowardHurtz:

The outer portion of my Supergame switch stopped making mechanical contact with the inner small plunger. After adjusting the alignment it has been fine ever since.

Thanks HowardHurtz. I'll check this out as well. As of now, I know the button is pressing the switch properly and causing it to click. I'll have to see how contact is made based on your past issue with the inner plunger.

#3632 38 days ago

Do you guys know if 1N914B diodes are a suitable replacement for the one used at the super game micro switch? I bought so many, thinking I'd need them for a system 80 gottlieb. Also, without taking the button and switch out from the machine, I cannot read what type of diode is currently in place. I can always dig into this later. It's probably specified in the schematic, within the manual.

Thanks!
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#3633 38 days ago

Hope these help.

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#3634 38 days ago

And to answer your other question: I wouldn't use a 1N914 there, as they're only rated for 150 mA @ 100V, where as the 1n4001 is rated for 1A @50V. If you think the diode is bad, I would remove it from the switch and use a digital volt meter to test it.

#3635 38 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

And to answer your other question: I wouldn't use a 1N914 there, as they're only rated for 150 mA @ 100V, where as the 1n4001 is rated for 1A @50V. If you think the diode is bad, I would remove it from the switch and use a digital volt meter to test it.

Thanks, Mr_Frog! Pics are very helpful! Also, I'll test the diode tomorrow and see if that's causing issues. Looks like micro switches are relatively cheap too. Thanks again!

#3636 38 days ago

Also note that my switch has two diodes connected to it: One from the red wire to the left terminal (inside the rubber tube) and the one between the front and top-front terminal.

#3637 38 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Also note that my switch has two diodes connected to it: One from the red wire to the left terminal (inside the rubber tube) and the one between the front and top-front terminal.

Thanks for pointing that out. I would of overlooked that second diode. Makes me wonder what else is missing or incorrectly installed. Previous owner replaced the coin door and cabinet decals. It's very possible a few things weren't put back in correct location.

#3638 36 days ago
Quoted from ChiTownPinHead:

I already added the mods you mentioned. I bought the "Fusion" set of Pinstadiums so they do add to the experience. I'm waiting to wire up the Fusion feature and shaker motor so they fire off at the same time.

Annnnd I pulled the Pinstadiums! Lights were nice but couldn't keep them from falling and I'm concerned they're going to end up melting the plastics because they run HOT!

#3639 36 days ago
Quoted from ChiTownPinHead:

Annnnd I pulled the Pinstadiums! Lights were nice but couldn't keep them from falling and I'm concerned they're going to end up melting the plastics because they run HOT!

I have not installed them in my JD yet (but have them for when I get my JD back). I have put pinstadiums in my other pins and had that occasional problem on my WOZ with the magnamounts coming undone and them falling. I installed the Hover kit on my pinstadiums and problem solved. Plus, I no longer need to take off the pinstadiums when lifting the playfield. Personally, I feel that the kit should come with the hovers, but he sells them separately. Adds a bit more to the total cost, but it solves a couple of problems with the Hovers installed.

#3640 36 days ago

Hi guys, if someone still interested to my cooling tower mod, you can buy it from here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1253-creo-pinball/all

thanks!
Rage

#3642 36 days ago
Quoted from calfdemon:

I have not installed them in my JD yet (but have them for when I get my JD back). I have put pinstadiums in my other pins and had that occasional problem on my WOZ with the magnamounts coming undone and them falling. I installed the Hover kit on my pinstadiums and problem solved. Plus, I no longer need to take off the pinstadiums when lifting the playfield. Personally, I feel that the kit should come with the hovers, but he sells them separately. Adds a bit more to the total cost, but it solves a couple of problems with the Hovers installed.

I also bought the hovers and didn't find area to mount them to be sufficient due to the ramps. I'll just add some spot lights and call it a day.

#3643 34 days ago

lower right flipper coil - can someone send me a pic of the 3 soldered wires, I have to install flipper coil and want to ensure wires are correct

#3644 33 days ago
Quoted from ggravesfamily:

lower right flipper coil - can someone send me a pic of the 3 soldered wires, I have to install flipper coil and want to ensure wires are correct

Here you go . Hope it helps. Also note there is no diode on this coil so yours shouldn't either.
IMG_20200425_092821 (resized).jpg

#3645 33 days ago

Hmm, that's the trough coil. I wonder if he needs the actual flipper coil? If you need the flipper coil let me know and I'll sneak down there and play a few ga....I mean take a pic for you.

#3646 33 days ago

Here you go!

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#3647 33 days ago

so many thanks for the pic help

#3648 33 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I don't mean to be a regular pest on this forum, but I noticed my Super Game switch has never activated since this game became mine. At first, I thought it could be an issue with freeplay and required credits. Well, when entering switch test, the micro switch ( still making click sound ) does not activate. It's wierd because the button flasher, which is tied to the power driver board, works. I'm thinking of starting at the diode, then maybe considering a new micro switch. Just curious if my current wiring setup is correct ( in pics and sketch ). Not that this would affect the switch, but a yellow wire with orange stripes is shown instead of a yellow-gray wire (noticed 2 yellow-gray wires attached to START button micro switch). Can anyone confirm whether my Super Game wires are correctly attached? I think they're good, but just looking to rule this out of possible problems.
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ugh, replaced the Super Game Microswitch and Diode. Same result, no switch activation. I should check continuity between mpu and switch wiring.

Ok, no continuity between molex at switch and mpu idc connectors. This is getting interesting.

#3649 33 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Ugh, replaced the Super Game Microswitch and Diode. Same result, no switch activation. I should check continuity between mpu and switch wiring.
Ok, no continuity between molex at switch and mpu idc connectors. This is getting interesting.

Does anyone have this green-yellow wire at J207 with this extra (single) connector? It's like an extension of the green-yellow wire, linked to super game. I wonder if this is causing problems.

20200425_150821 (resized).jpg
#3650 33 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Does anyone have this green-yellow wire at J207 with this extra (single) connector? It's like an extension of the green-yellow wire, linked to super game. I wonder if this is causing problems.[quoted image]

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