Quoted from nipper2u:Where did you get these mods from?
Thanks again!
He most likely made them, they’re not on the market
(Topic ID: 40984)
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Judge Dredd
Bally, 1993
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Quoted from nipper2u:Where do I find the test point for TP1? Are these test points specified in the manual?
Photo attached shows the 12V test point on a Williams/Bally driver board, which is located near the top left of the board and just below the red LED you can see. The test points on Rottendog boards are in different positions but they will look the same and from memory are labelled under the TP like the one's on W/B boards. I would start by disconnecting any added LED mods that hook up to 12V (if any) and see if you have any issues with the colour DMD then. For the other machine i had that was using a Rottendog driver board, i took off all 12V mods and it stopped blowing the fuse. I've heard of some having issues with RD boards but also some that have reported no issues at all. As for the nuke towers, go back to page 17 and post 807 of this thread which shows how i went about it BUT follow on from that post as several people added the same mod but went about the mounting process in a much more efficient way, mine was done on the fly and on hindsight pretty scrappy.
Thank you! Love to learn something new. I got 13.44v for TP1. So I am looking to add an external 12v power supply.
Cool mod - will look into it as well.
Quoted from nipper2u:I got 13.44v for TP1
I would think that reading is pretty normal, you may not need to add the power supply. Also bare in mind that an external supply will power any mod LED's constantly, they won't be controlled like playfield insert lamps are.
I have been blowing fuse F116 so I am thinking of moving the ColorDMD to an external 12v supply and keeping LED items on the powerboard where they can be controlled. This would include LEDOC, GIOCD, and I would love to add a set of Pin Stadium lights...
1 week later
Ahh nuts. I finally was going to break down and order a coin rom for this weekend and Matt's Arcade is off til 12/1 
Westminster, CO
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:I sold my JD and have extra parts if anyone is interested. I have the 2000 A.D. Judge Death action figure out if box. I mounted him to the eagle topper as a pretty cool addition to the topper. I also have full rebuild kits, minus the coils, for 2 flipper assemblies. I rebuilt the bottom 2 flippers but never got around to the upper 2, hence 2 new rebuild kits. Complete with the flipper pawls, flipper bushings, flipper bats (standard and smaller 2" flipper bat for right upper flipper with black 2" rubber), coil sleeves, return springs, coil stop plate, switches, hardware, just as you would buy the kit from PL but includes the bushings and flipper bats with the 2" black rubber. $45.00 for everything shipped. Figure only, $22.00 shipped. Flipper rebuild kits only, $28.00 shipped. PM me if interested, Thanks.
I'm bumping this post again because I still have these parts if any of you JD owners want them. $35 for everything shipped. Thanks.
Vancouver, BC
Thought I would post in this thread too - I have the Judge Dredd specific left flipper opto board replacement installed in my Dredd (the one with the magnet on it) and whenever the ball goes into the the left missile launch kick back the lower left flipper momentarily goes off at the same time that the ball gets kicked back into play. Anyone know of a possible fix for this? I have put electrical tape over the little magnet, but that didn't work. I have had suggestions to glue the square magnet into place, but am kind of wary to do it. Anyone try the glue with any success? Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Quoted from bigballa81:Thought I would post in this thread too - I have the Judge Dredd specific left flipper opto board replacement installed in my Dredd (the one with the magnet on it) and whenever the ball goes into the the left missile launch kick back the lower left flipper momentarily goes off at the same time that the ball gets kicked back into play. Anyone know of a possible fix for this? I have put electrical tape over the little magnet, but that didn't work. I have had suggestions to glue the square magnet into place, but am kind of wary to do it. Anyone try the glue with any success? Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Do you have the instruction/installation sheet for the magnet style boards? i'm pretty sure that is explained on there. Tape on the magnet is just to hold it in place once you have found the sweet spot. Moving the magnet up/down and left/right alters the sensitivity and also effects the upper flipper going off and when. From memory my project JD did the same thing with these boards. Try turning the magnet end wise, so north to south but keeping the magnet in the same location if possible. If that doesn't help, flip the magnet over so the side facing in to the plate is on the outside. I think on my machine i have the magnets sitting at a 45 degree angle, not straight up and down, just takes some fiddling to get them right.
Quoted from Mancave:Do you have the instruction/installation sheet for the magnet style boards? i'm pretty sure that is explained on there. Tape on the magnet is just to hold it in place once you have found the sweet spot. Moving the magnet up/down and left/right alters the sensitivity and also effects the upper flipper going off and when. From memory my project JD did the same thing with these boards. Try turning the magnet end wise, so north to south but keeping the magnet in the same location if possible. If that doesn't help, flip the magnet over so the side facing in to the plate is on the outside. I think on my machine i have the magnets sitting at a 45 degree angle, not straight up and down, just takes some fiddling to get them right.
Dug through my apartment and finally found the instructions. They have a troubleshooting section that states flipping the magnet over if auto fire causes lower flipper to go off just like you recommend. Gonna try this out tonight hopefully. Thanks very much!
Quoted from Mancave:Do you have the instruction/installation sheet for the magnet style boards? i'm pretty sure that is explained on there. Tape on the magnet is just to hold it in place once you have found the sweet spot. Moving the magnet up/down and left/right alters the sensitivity and also effects the upper flipper going off and when. From memory my project JD did the same thing with these boards. Try turning the magnet end wise, so north to south but keeping the magnet in the same location if possible. If that doesn't help, flip the magnet over so the side facing in to the plate is on the outside. I think on my machine i have the magnets sitting at a 45 degree angle, not straight up and down, just takes some fiddling to get them right.
So after flipping the magnet around and much fiddling the problem is now solved. Thanks for your help Mancave stoked to have game fully operational again.✅
Quoted from bigballa81:So after flipping the magnet around and much fiddling the problem is now solved. Thanks for your help Mancave stoked to have game fully operational again.
Awesome, great to hear. Those boards work very well, just takes a little bit of extra time to get the magnet in the right spot 
Tape it on and should be fine for many plays to come
Penrith
2 weeks later
Well, my coin play rom finally arrived so I could fire the game up at our club. The CPU decided to quit about an hour later I think due to (previously unknown) acid damage.
The CPU from my DM worked just fine when I swapped everything. Happy to isolate it to the CPU, not looking forward to getting a new CPU :/
Just finished cleaning and reassembling my recently acquired Judge Dredd. It's working well for the most part, but a couple of questions.
Which flipper uses the 11630 coil? It's not clear from the documentation which one it is. I have 2 x 11629 and 2 x 11630, so obviously not correct. Anyone know the exact difference between these?
I don't have the Deadworld mod, but the crane seems to drop the ball early and it drops off the side of the ramp rather than in it. Does anyone know the exact logic used with the optos the ball is supposed to pass through? I thought that triggered the drop and the optos weren't back enough to let the ball reach the right position, so I moved them back. I see there are tests 16 and 17 for the world and crane, but I'm not sure how the optos and logic work together. It looks like everything is working, but the ball drops prematurely. Or is this normal since they decided to kill the lock functionality?
Is pinbits still selling the mod? I tried several times to email, but no one responds.
Any advice where to get drop stickers and apron card graphics?
Quoted from HighVoltage:Which flipper uses the 11630 coil? It's not clear from the documentation which one it is. I have 2 x 11629 and 2 x 11630, so obviously not correct. Anyone know the exact difference between these?
I don't have the Deadworld mod, but the crane seems to drop the ball early and it drops off the side of the ramp rather than in it. Does anyone know the exact logic used with the optos the ball is supposed to pass through? I thought that triggered the drop and the optos weren't back enough to let the ball reach the right position, so I moved them back. I see there are tests 16 and 17 for the world and crane, but I'm not sure how the optos and logic work together. It looks like everything is working, but the ball drops prematurely. Or is this normal since they decided to kill the lock functionality?
Is pinbits still selling the mod? I tried several times to email, but no one responds.
Any advice where to get drop stickers and apron card graphics?
The upper right flipper uses the 11630 coil, 11629 is the strongest of the 2 and not needed for that particular flipper because of the shorter distances it needs to cover. The magnet for the crane only holds for a short period of time so it sounds like you will need to adjust your crane so it carries a little closer to the ramp (left). When it picks up the ball is the crane slightly to the right of the ball? if so adjustment should fix it. The deadworld mod is still for sale on Pinbits site, it's showing as in stock for me, at least the fluoro red ring version anyway. There is a couple of drop target sticker sets on Fleabay and there is several sites online you can get hold of cards.
http://www.pinballcards.com/
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/card.htm
I also designed some for my own machine >>>
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dredd-owners-thread-members-only/page/31#post-3262110
That makes sense, one of my lower flippers has the 11630 as well, so I should replace that one. I will look into the arm adjustment. Thanks for the tips.
Is anyone using the cliffy on the right ramp return? Did you get any kind of damage after using it? My ramp was cracked when I got it. I repaired it and then took a different approach. It seems the violent vibrations do the damage, so I added cushioning foam above and below the mounting screw which dampens the effects and there's been no re-breaking since. It just seems maybe firming up the ramp with the cliffy may just transfer the stress elsewhere but may still cause damage.
Quoted from HighVoltage:Is pinbits still selling the mod? I tried several times to email, but no one responds.
I bought the deadworld mod from them a few months ago. I'd say it's a must have.
Quoted from HighVoltage:Is pinbits still selling the mod? I tried several times to email, but no one responds.
Any advice where to get drop stickers and apron card graphics?
They still sell the mod.
They do suck at answering emails but they ship orders promptly.
I got my drop labels from PPS I believe, but I was ordering a topper too.
My crane opto is dead. Swapped out the opto last nite hoping it had finally flaked out but no change. Any ideas where I should look?
Quoted from gunstarhero:My crane opto is dead. Swapped out the opto last nite hoping it had finally flaked out but no change. Any ideas where I should look?
Usually it's the transmitter that goes bad, the one with the white housing. You can check with your multimeter to see if it is getting voltage. Or use your digital camera: you will be able to see the transmitter lit on the camera's display. Check the receiver too, you can short the two points right behind the LED while in switch test mode to make sure it's reading. That will tell you where the problem is.
I did a lot of opto debugging and replacing bad transmitter LEDs on the JD I just got... 3 on the trough had burnt out.
I've never gotten that digital camera trick to work, but when I got in there this morning I spotted some sketchy ass soldering I did the other night. Fixed that and it's all good. So the OG optos were bad for sure, as with the new ones the crane calibrates almost instantly. Thanks HighVoltage!
2 weeks later
Hello all. I am a proud owner of a Judge Dredd. I've always loved this game ever since I was a kid. I love the layout, I love the theme, I love the music.
I was able to pick up this machine that was a bit beat up a few years ago, and every now and then do a little something to it. All in all, I have restored the Playfield best I could (wasn't too terribly bad to start with), cleaned and polished all the metal habitrails, touched up paint to the cabinet (looked originally like it it been through a meat grinder), painted the original legs (they originally looked like a horror movie with more oxidation than I've ever seen), full LED upgrade to the Playfield inserts and under some plastics, and LED to the back of the inner cabinet, and behind the back box. I think she is looking pretty sweet!!
I would love to share some pics of how she is looking these days.
Quoted from Arcadefan:I'm joining, the music is awsome for this machine as well as the gameplay!
This is an absolutely fantastic game. Never gets old. Soundtrack is absolutely great. Really gets you all jazzed up. Shots are cool. I would recommend finding a reputable company that has gone through it and cleaned it up and tested it, and then put money down and bring her home!!
Anyone ever replace the WPC89 driver board with a Rottendog driver board? I just did and now my flippers are very weak. I posted in the tech section but thought I would ask here as well. Thanks.
Quoted from nipper2u:Anyone ever replace the WPC89 driver board with a Rottendog driver board? I just did and now my flippers are very weak. I posted in the tech section but thought I would ask here as well. Thanks.
I did. I have a Rottendog in my game and the flippers are fine.
Anyone else here using the pinbits ball trough plastic magnet shielding mod (http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_8&products_id=449)?
Mine keeps falling out of the ball trough. Was thinking of running a screw through it to prevent this from happening; unless someone has a better idea?
Quoted from wizard_mode:Anyone else here using the pinbits ball trough plastic magnet shielding mod (http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_8&products_id=449)?
Mine keeps falling out of the ball trough. Was thinking of running a screw through it to prevent this from happening; unless someone has a better idea?
Mine backs its way out too. On both JD and JM. I just put a piece of painters tape on the side of the trough to the plastic to keep it from backing itself out.
Update on my weak flippers: I spoke with Jim at Rottendog. Both him and Jared were great to talk to, very patient, and very responsive.
The voltage at TP1 as well as all other checkpoints on the power driver board all checked out. However, voltage on the Fliptronics board was 17.1V at all of the fuses and 10.4V at the main power connector J904. So not enough power coming in there. I raised the PF and opened\reconnected all 3 molex connectors out of the main power supply with no improvement. Anyone know if the inadequate voltage has to be due to my main power supply or could it be something else? Do the power supplies go out after 25+ years?
Thanks again for your input.
Another update:
I have been informed I should call it Transformer, not power supply, and they don't fail that often. I am looking at the JD schematic and it seems to indicate 12v and 5v to that connector from the power driver board connector J114, so I am waiting on a call back from Rottendog to confirm their initial findings. Will continue to update as I learn more.
Thanks!
Ok, I had some confusion about which connectors supply 50v and 12v power and where those connectors are being fed from. After tracing connections using the manual and properly understanding which connectors fed what power to what boards, it seems the actual issue was due to the J104\J105 connector\plug having some connectivity issues and therefore not enough power was coming from it to the fliptronics board. After cleaning that plug it was able to feed the necessary voltages to the fliptronics board and the flippers came back up to full power. A very weird issue to figure out.
I am leaving the machine on now to see if the J116 fuse blows again (before it would not go but a few hours before blowing).
I am still not able to test solenoids via the Test menu. No matter what solenoid test I choose, only the Deadworld motor activates and does a herky jerky spin. I saw this when I had a cable connected to J136 (I think) on the power driver board which wasn't supposed to be there but now I am at a loss as to the cause. Any ideas?
Just FYI - I bought this pin after being routed and who knows what other history it has. I have found 2 connectors (purely by chance) that were plugged up incorrectly and causing very random issues. I plan to go back through the manual schematics and verify plugs are where they should be.
Please let me know if you have any questions about anything. Thanks for your consideration.
Quoted from nipper2u:I am still not able to test solenoids via the Test menu. No matter what solenoid test I choose, only the Deadworld motor activates and does a herky jerky spin. I saw this when I had a cable connected to J136 (I think) on the power driver board which wasn't supposed to be there but now I am at a loss as to the cause. Any ideas?
Close the coin door when you do the test.
Quoted from Industen:Close the coin door when you do the test.
No need to close the door. There are two switches that the coin door pushes closed, one of them is dented all the way around the top (see pic) - pull this one out and it closes the switch as if the door were closed, allowing for the solenoid and flasher tests. Bam! I learned this watching Ray's Tech Tips by GRC on YouTube. I learn something each episode, highly recommended!
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:No need to close the door. There are two switches that the coin door pushes closed, one of them is dented all the way around the top (see pic) - pull this one out and it closes the switch as if the door were closed, allowing for the solenoid and flasher tests
On my Stern Monopoly it has one of those type switches but on all my WPC Bally/Williams they don't. That was why originally they supplied one of those yellow metal clips with new machines to attach to the switch bracket.
"Close the coin door when you do the test."
"There are two switches that the coin door pushes closed, one of them is dented all the way around the top (see pic) - pull this one out and it closes the switch as if the door were closed, allowing for the solenoid and flasher tests"
Excellent info - thanks!!
"originally they supplied one of those yellow metal clips with new machines to attach to the switch bracket."
Anyone have pics or links to what the yellow clips look like?
Quoted from nipper2u:Anyone have pics or links to what the yellow clips look like
Interesting and convenient. Appeals to my inner pinball nerd. Will have to look for one of those. Thanks!
Quoted from nipper2u:Interesting and convenient. Appeals to my inner pinball nerd. Will have to look for one of those. Thanks!
It wouldn't be too hard to bend one out of thin alloy i would think. It wouldn't need the extra side flap (piece withe the hole in it) I had a few spare ones of these but i'm not sure what i've done with them. If i find them you can have one
Quoted from aeonblack:If your JD ends multiballs early and then kicks out too many balls, it may be time for you to put a ring on it
HUGE shout out to aeonblack for the above. For the first time in forever, I have a reliable DeadWorld mech. If there was an award for cheapest mod for the biggest win, you'd get the trophy, Dude!
"If i find them you can have one"
Thanks, Mancave! I assumed the side flap was to push it off if you shut the door and forgot to remove it?
Quoted from nipper2u:"If i find them you can have one"
Thanks, Mancave! I assumed the side flap was to push it off if you shut the door and forgot to remove it?
key chain
Quoted from xeneize:HUGE shout out to aeonblack for the above. For the first time in forever, I have a reliable DeadWorld mech. If there was an award for cheapest mod for the biggest win, you'd get the trophy, Dude!
What is the mod?
A bunch of washers on the crane optos to move them out further
Quoted from aeonblack:SO, I finally figured out the opto/crane/trough/multiball problem so many of us have been having ( mancave most recently). Or, if nothing else, I got us another step closer to figuring it out.
Initially, I thought it must be the troughs, so I fixed, then replaced those. No dice.
Then, months ago, I (thought I) solved my problem by re-soldering the crane opto connections, but I think what actually happened is I must have physically moved the optos further out, causing them to trigger fully.
Recently, it has been having the problem again (multiball ending early, next ball firing out too many balls, etc), and, fed up, I spent a lot of time fiddling with it and came up with the solution of physically moving the optos further out to cause them to trigger sooner. I think the issue is that the optos do not fully trigger when the ball is passing through (despite them successfully triggering in tests), thus causing it not to register. I have no idea why this works, but it works.
TL;DR: If your JD ends multiballs early and then kicks out too many balls, it may be time for you to put a ring on it (or 40, in my case...10 small washers on each screw, and longer screws).
*takes a bow* If you get at mad at something frequently enough, and are persistent enough to keep messing with it, eventually you'll figure it out. I'm just happy it's working for people and is a cheap and easy DIY fix for a problem that has been off and on with my machine for a couple years.
Quoted from aeonblack:*takes a bow* If you get at mad at something frequently enough, and are persistent enough to keep messing with it, eventually you'll figure it out. I'm just happy it's working for people and is a cheap and easy DIY fix for a problem that has been off and on with my machine for a couple years.
Oh dam I just went back and looked. Nice work aeonblack ! I think I may have some nylon bushings to get the same effect... Pulling my JD in the shop soon for an overhaul. Adding this to the list. Thanks!
Can someone point or link me to a description of the correct mechanical operation of the prototype deadworld assembly? Specifically I'm looking to understand how the switches should be oriented relative to the ring, but I'd really like to better understand the operation of the entire assembly.
Thanks!
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Just closed the deal on a JD project that is promised to be ready in a couple of months. I'm super excited to be joining this club!
Well... sad to say that, in the end, negotiations failed (what a f***ing long "couple" of months, huh?), so I've got a few extra beautiful new JD parts lying here in search of a new home (pin)! 
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Quoted from AlexSMendes:Well... sad to say that, in the end, negotiations failed (what a f***ing long "couple" of months, huh?), so I've got a few extra beautiful new JD parts lying here in search of a new home (pin)!
Are they separate parts or only a package? Because I NEED one of those plastics.
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