JD probably gets the least amount of love in my house. It's pretty straight forward and mode heavy. I think the code could be better given all of the shots/switches. However, sometimes I get very into the gameplay. Certainly what keeps it in my house is the killer theme and decadent layout.

Some thoughts while playing today:

During Battle Tank mode, the most satisfying shot is off the left flipper, off the stand-up target bank, and up the blackout ramp. It's a little tricky but I can do it almost every time. So good!

The whole upper playfield is very playable and fun with some nudging and practice.

Air raid shot is the hardest but also very satisfying. I can hit the upper loop pretty easy. Perhaps I need to re-align my upper left flipper a smidge.

Left loop is also pretty hard. Chances of making it with a moving ball are very low.

Super game is the coolest feature! I wish it was carried over to other games. I probably play super game 8 of every 10 games.

Great mod and sweet Dredd! I just got the cooling towers (3 from TSPP) and the decals from Soapman! My question is, how did you take off the original cooling tower plastics? They seem to be riveted on and I don't know how to take them off without potentially damaging the plastic?

Anyone?

There's probably a few methods but i used a drill with a bit that's slightly larger than what the shaft of the rivet is, so about 3-4 mm. You may need a bit somewhat larger but start smaller. Basically you are drilling into the back part of the rivet (folded over part) and separating the shaft from the folded over portion. You won't harm the plastic cause you are drilling into the back of the bracket that holds the plastic. Just take it easy

Thanks Mancave ill give it a go. I tried ordering another right plastic test it with but I couldn't find one with the cooling towers already on!

I assume you also drilled the holes into back of the cooling towers as well?

Are you planning to use the existing brackets to mount the new towers on? If you are then you are only removing the rivets that hold the 2D original tower plastics to the bracket (2) You would not do the rivets holding the brackets to the main playfield plastic. I used a different method myself to mount the towers, on hindsight it wasn't the most practical way to go about it, although achieved similar results to others.
I will also stress that you aren't drilling right through, only need to separate the back folded portion from the shaft of the rivet (basically taking the rear head off for want of a better term) and then you will be able to separate the tower from the bracket.

Do your self a favor and create some brackets that will hold the towers, don't drill the towers.
Look back in the thread and follow the example, you'll be glad you did

Without me going back through all the previous posts i believe that one guy used the existing brackets and just removed the towers. I did it differently again and removed both brackets/towers and attached 2 to the plastic (on created mounts) and 1 to a post (admittedly not the best way to go about it) and the other method was new brackets. Either way some rivets still need to be removed I think the best way forward for JediPimp is to sit down and nut out just how he want's to mount the new towers.

Another thing i would like to add is that however the towers are mounted you need to be mindful of the fact that the front 2 towers (getting closer to the flippers) need to be stepped down in height. I forgot about this initially with mine and had to remount the front tower due to the fact the glass hit on it.

I mounted my on acrylic coaster blanks that I made then I hot glued them to the disc. I say do whatever works for you as long as it looks good. Some pic's of other mods i did on mine

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Orange looks goooood!

I'm hoping one of you guys might have an answer to this. I get this error message to check switch 81 and 82 ball trough 1 and 2. But in switch test they work perfectly. During play everything works perfectly. I have the new upgraded ball trough boards. Just can't figure out why I'm getting the error messages. Any ideas???

Not played a Super Game or got to the finale in a long time?
Afaik JD only throws out all 6 balls in these 2 cases, so if they dont occur in a while the game assumes broken optos.

same issue here. my daughter hasn't played super game in a while.

New JD owner here. After a good clean and wax, Dredd is playing fast and furious. Sometimes a little too fast if i hit the right return ramp to perfect, the ball will fly off the rh wireform after the last turn and hit the right side plastic ramp or out the lane.

Could this be a level issue? I see that wireform is only held down on the left side causing the right to sag a bit. I tried using a zip to slow the ball down but that didnt work. Anyone else fix this issue?

same issue here.

Maybe steepen the playfield angle a bit? It should slow down a little after a bunch of plays too.

I had it at 6.6. I moved it down to 6.4 to slow the ball down on the return. It seemed to help slightly.

Hey guys, I just received the deadworld mod kit from pinbits, and in addition to the expected actual ball lock ring, rom, and trough liner, it also came with a small 2.5 inch ring made of the same material as the main ring. No instructions of course... Anyone have a clue where that piece is used, if at all? Can't find anywhere for it above or below the PF, nor mention of this piece anywhere else discussing the mod.

I installed the main ring and rom, and the mod works great. Just not clear what the hell this extra piece is for...

Small ring is just for a keychain. Not used in the game

Yeah I just removed the protective paper on it tonight actually, and realised it was a miniature replica of the ring itself... D'oh. Guess that's a cool keychain.

Quick pic of my Dredd after my first mods - deadworld mod added, Judge drop target decals, and all LEDs. Pic looks a little blown out brightness wise, but it is really nice in reality imo.

LEDs were Comet smds mostly, natural white GI, mostly color matched or warm white inserts, couple matrix 3-LED natural white strips added at each side of the back to get some light in the area. Previous owner had a green led under the air raid plastic, that lights the sniper tower that I left, kinda like the color there for some reason... Really happy with the game, such an improvement over incandescents.

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not bright at all; looks good.

Hey I know what you mean about the LEDs looking kind of harsh in the eye of a digital camera. I get the same effect when taking pics of my LED'd pins. The JD looks awesome! I am getting ready to pimp mine out soon. LED's adding some figures, flipper rebuild, new Titan rings, spotlamps, the whole shabizzy. Would love to powder coat the wireforms but seems expensive...

Hey, could I get some good pictures of the metal guard on the plastic ramp above the outlane on the right?

Anyone happen to be holding an extra of this guy they can hook a fellow Dredd-head up with?

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Its a cliffy.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/dreddpro.htm

I just finished the cooling tower mod and am very happy with it,I Attached the tower to the socket to simplify things a bit and number 2 tower looks to be a bit brighter,reactor could be running hotter.i glued the nuts on the socket to ease attaching the towers and you may need to poke a hole or two in the plastic and test fit a few times but all in all a fun Sunday afternoon project

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Looks good!!

Who sells this mod?

i think it's just parts from TSPP.

1- cooling towers are from TSPP
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6065-25

Tower decals has been made/print and ship by pinsider Soapman. Great guy. 15$ if I remember

3 red LEDs bulbs your choice of #44/47
I wired all 3 leds on a GI. They are always lit. But you can wired them everywhere.

You need 3 of these sockets
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5009-00

You can do the mod in an afternoon,lots of help available on this thread.

I recieved this info cheese wizzardpq

good job! it was a pleasure to help!

Super Game Continues!

Can anyone point me in the direction of where these ones go? Can't find them in my picture log.

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sniper tower. first piece goes on top of the big right hand ramp. second is gi cover, towards the back.

that would explain these 2 empty posts. ramp is not in yet so probably why i couldnt find where the clear one went. thank you

I get lots of hops out of the wireforms... doesn't always bounce into the proper lane. I might try to attach a rubber bumper to slow form the ball.

Hi guys. Been wanting a pin for 22 years and just today got one!! It's a judge dredd in real good shape. I don't know a thing about working in pins so I am at a loss of what to do first. The only problem is deadworld is not working and I was told best solution is send to pinball resource for a rebuild? Not even sure how to take it off and if I also should get the mod with the fully enclosed holes? After a drain every once in a while the ball does not return to shooter lane and I need to give it a good nudge. Also really want to improve the lighting. Especially in the back where it seems real dark, so any ideas about what to do would be great. And lastly the worst part is I cannot seem to get the chrome lock piece that holds the glass on to latch in??? I have messed with it for a half hour. I am certain the latch is all the way open but just seems like it won't slide in far enough to be able to close latch??? Thanks for any help!!!

Download the manual (ipdb.org) and read up on switch edge test. Then go through the game and test all of the switches. First issue could be a switch and second issue is most likely a switch.

If it gets more involved than that I would start a technical thread (and link to it from here).

I found my Judge Dredd and I am learning and enjoying the play. The crane mechanism makes a squeaking noise when going through its motion. I know lubricants are a no-no, is anyone familiar with this issue? thank you.

Might need the gear box (which is lubed I think) rebuilt. PBResource.com does it...

Thank you for the reply. I also found the motor available at Bay Area Amusements and Marco.

Hey guys, what kind of spring assembly do you guys have on the right flipper button/fliptronics opto interrupter for the right flipper on your Dredds? All mine has is what ever spring is in the button, no spring on the black opto interrupter piece.

My left flipper has a metal interrupter/spring assembly, and it has a much stiffer feel and responds to light taps and releases way better than the right. I mistakenly ordered this 01-14348.1 spring below from Marco thinking it was correct, but there is not enough space to mount it, due to the launch/fire button.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-14348.1

Surely I'm missing something there... I've already cleaned the opto, I really feel like the difference is mainly mechanical/lack or strong enough spring pressure to snap the interrupter closed when you release and re-tap the button quickly.

Kinda sad that my older standard leaf-switch flipper button games have farrrrr superior flipper feel and control compared to my newer Dredd...

I'm afraid I have not seen the same results. Yes, the DMD works, but for whatever reason, the mechanical havoc I've seen in my game speaks against having both (immediate infinite multi ball). Maybe PinRob can lead me to getting mine in the same working condition? Rob, You might be the solution to my frustrations if yours works flawlessly with both. I've previously posted: "For JD, The combo of the deadworld mod L1-AT and the color DMD display (ROM 3.3) sounded perfect and looks perfect (despite the mechanical issues I have now). Help if you can please!!!
My game worked perfectly well with the deadworld mod and affiliated L1AT chip (several mos. of daily play). Optos test perfectly as well (more than twice). So, why not fix what ain't broken, right?...
I Installed a Color DMD display (worth the price if you keep the game imho and after seeing this one), and now (immediately after Color DMD install) all I get is incessant left and right poppers at start player 1, and then the right shooter lane sending me infinite balls. Couldn't find a solution with test report and testing optos/solenoids, etc, so decided to revert back out of the Color DMD LCD (vers 3.3 for this specific game right now. It is successfully installed via the USB acceptor on the back of the Color DMD with an easy process) And I re-installed the original ugly DMD board. Problems solved. Tried it twice. Same issue.
This is awful. Dumping the colors/keeping the display for later. I love the colors and seeing orange dots become cartoons. Not sure I can forfeit them. I'm leaving it at the deadworld L1AT with physical ball lock success for now. Please advise if this is a known incompatibility or if an update arises to fix it. The graphics for Dredd are well worth it considering that many of the mini games rely heavily on the display to instruct the player what shot is next desired.
If you care lots, The Color DMD uses J116 that only lists coin door parts that it powers, so I can't imagine it's a power plug compatibility issue. It does have me completely unplug plug 604 from the rottendog board and the original DMD, so maybe that??? Anyway, I didn't see the incompatibility listed yet on Pinside, so I'll entertain solutions. I'm not reversing the deadworld mod (mainly because I bent a pin on the my original chip L4 while removing it). Love the L1-AT mod though, and the developers deserve the physical ball lock to be in place. Also love the Color DMD. So with the current setup working, I'll keep it as is. Huge concession giving up Color screen though. This is really a problem worth a solution. Dredd really deserves both the Color DMD and deadworld function revert together. Makes a $2200 pin a $3500+ pin if/when both work.

Asked and answered in your other thread. Yes they are compatible and you likely have other issues going on.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/judge-dredd-l1-at-deadworld-mod-and-color-dmd-problems#post-3696676

I too believe something else is going on - 12V line failing -> too much on the 12 volt line withColorDMD - these are very old machines and the components if original will start to fail especially after adding more to the system.

Having an issue where as soon as a player starts the ball fires immediately without the button being pressed.

Still trying to get the drop targets to work correctly. Sometimes they won't reset at the beginning of a game or pop up at all during game play. I've taken it apart cleaned the optos and replaced plastics and springs. Other times the E gets stuck and it goes on rapid fire to try and reset it.

sounds like trough optos. the game thinks there's too many balls or not enough.

anyone use double sided tape to secure the eagle topper? I just have my topper sitting on the top of my machine without anything, not a very good idea. When I did a nutty nudge the topper fell on the glass, luckily it didn't break it.

has all the parts listed:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468