Quoted from vec-tor:Check your optos, they could be bad.
I put the Great Lakes Modular opto board in my JD. What a clever assembly: it uses one fewer mount point so it's easier to install, it has nice wide optos so it's easy to clean, and it had LEDs so you can actually see what's going on! The wide optos make it easier to install, too --I didn't pull out any of the globe assembly.
I highly recommend it to anyone with globe position issues.
Just joined the club last weekend, sorry no pics yet but it's still folded in the garage. I love the sound and art package on Dredd, and I've wanted one for a long time. Mine has a non faded cab and a pretty much perfect playfield. Only thing it's missing is the topper. From what I can tell finding a topper is going to be the Ultimate Challenge. See what I did there?
here's a list of everything you need:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468
i can give you that, at least.
Quoted from weaverj:here's a list of everything you need:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468
i can give you that, at least.
yeah, I've seen that there for some time now. Just wish they'd get them reproed and back in stock.
Quoted from shock_me:yeah, I've seen that there for some time now. Just wish they'd get them reproed and back in stock.
Get the shiny eagle like was originally intended for the machine. http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-8936-GLD
And the bracket is easily made with materials from most any hardware store.
Quoted from weaverj:here's my new JD club member update:
auto-plunger is fixed. wrong sleeve was installed. plunger was scraping on the middle bracket.
eagle is mounted. got the hardware list off marco here: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468.
removed deadworld mod. definitely less cool now, but want a working baseline while i fix everything else.
still need help with my weak left flipper, however. hardware looks like a rebuild. everything has the correct play to it. correctly spaced off my bushing. i cleaned the button optos.
i tested resistance over the coil. i got ~121 left and ~126 on the right side. would that make a difference? it's the correct coil #, doesn't have a williams label on it though. really, if i can get this fixed, i'll have a nice little JD on my hands.
flipper opto board at the flipper button
Quoted from PinRob:Get the shiny eagle like was originally intended for the machine. http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-8936-GLD
And the bracket is easily made with materials from most any hardware store.
So what's the story on the eagle? Except for repros I've only ever seen the non chromy gold version on the game. Was something changed before production?
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:flipper opto board at the flipper button
i pulled the board out, cleaned properly, thus reseated the connector and replaced coil sleeve. it's way better now. it'll stick at eos a little. going to try a new return spring.
Quoted from weaverj:what's the highest L rom you can get with deadworld lock?
L1AT
I am having an issue with the dead world mod. For one of the three openings (where the locked balls rest and revolve around the globe), it catches on the metal bracket (near where the ball is dropped from when first locked) ever so slightly and stops rotating. I have tried minor adjustments (ex putting a washer under the orange disc to lift it up slightly), but it keeps hitting that bracket. It is only happening on the one hole though. Any suggestions?
Quoted from tomh52722:I am having an issue with the dead world mod. For one of the three openings (where the locked balls rest and revolve around the globe), it catches on the metal bracket (near where the ball is dropped from when first locked) ever so slightly and stops rotating. I have tried minor adjustments (ex putting a washer under the orange disc to lift it up slightly), but it keeps hitting that bracket. It is only happening on the one hole though. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you need to loosen the 3 screws that hold the ring down and adjust either way, those holes are slotted for a reason. Without seeing a pic i'm guessing it's set slightly more to one side and so when the ring rotates it hits that metal bracket. Adjust the ring in small amounts, re-tighten the screws, put into test mode and check the clearance! May take a few goes to get it better...NOTE** It's virtually impossible to get the ring exactly centered so it rotates perfect (at least both machines i've had have been identical in this anyway)
Does anyone have a high quality scan of the Judge Dredd playfield?
I'm also still looking for a beat up playfield (kicking myself I missed one a few months ago).
Thanks!
Quoted from Mancave:Not available as a complete NOS assembly as far as i'm aware. Someone might have a 2nd hand one from a tear down. The plastic is available (pinballspareparts in Oz), so is the decal (a guy on Fleabay sells them), the bracket is relatively easy to make and the lamp holders are readily available, something to consider if you can't track that 2nd hand one down.
Looks like the plastic is $40+ after shipping... Brutal
Quoted from ryandimx:Getting closer to putting everything back together. before I do, does anyone have the back board decals or a file of them? Mine are curling and ripped.
Where did you get this pic from? Are these spare decals you already have? Sorry i'm confused here
Quoted from ryandimx:Looks like the plastic is $40+ after shipping... Brutal
Did you convert from Aus dollars back to US dollars?. I added one to my cart (plastic price $19.95 for Aus customer) and then got a quote for postage to Alabama US (for an example), which was $20 Aus money. When going to the next step the plastic price was reduced to $18.14 Aus (less the GST we pay here). So $38.14 Aus total, by current conversion rates that works out to be $28.80 US. Not quite as painful If you can't find a 2nd hand assembly somewhere (put a wanted add on pinside), sorting the parts and making the bracket is the only option.
Quoted from Mancave:Where did you get this pic from? Are these spare decals you already have? Sorry i'm confused here
Borrowed the picture from the interwebs. If I had them I could get them reproduced.
Mine look like this.
Quoted from ryandimx:Borrowed the picture from the interwebs. If I had them I could get them reproduced.
Mine look like this.
Ahhh OK, and WOW, yeah those decals are cactus for sure That play field looks in need of a damn good clean
If i get the time in the next week i'll have a look into perhaps getting some of those decals made up.
Quoted from Mancave:Ahhh OK, and WOW, yeah those decals are cactus for sure That play field looks in need of a damn good clean
If i get the time in the next week i'll have a look into perhaps getting some of those decals made up.
I took the picture right after tear down because it will make for some good before and after pictures. I have a Treasure Cove polishing kit on the way.
After collecting parts for my JD project for ages I'm nearing the time when I can start putting it back together. So I thought I'd share some pics of my playfield. Just got it back after having some damage repaired and the playfield clear coated. The end result looks great and the surface is like glass.
Next stage will be strip the cabinet and apply new decals.
I like the touch on the shooter lanes. Different but goes with the theme (and I'm assuming protects the exposed wood grain).
Quoted from robotron911:I like the touch on the shooter lanes. Different but goes with the theme (and I'm assuming protects the exposed wood grain).
It is a nice touch. It was a cool surprise when I saw it for the first time. Just adds an extra bit of colour to an area that normally ends up looking worn.
I know the quality may be lacking on some of the more detailed plastics compared to the original but complete plastic set is available again here.
Hi all, I just joined the club!
However, I have a couple of issues I'm hoping can be solved here
#1 my planet is cracked, how do I get the bottom half out to replace it?
#2 I received the deadworld mod, which rom gets replaced and what do you do with the 2 other pieces of plastic other than the large ring?
#3 The game restores to factory settings each time I turn it on
Thanks in advance
Quoted from allsportdvd:Hi all, I just joined the club!
However, I have a couple of issues I'm hoping can be solved here
#1 my planet is cracked, how do I get the bottom half out to replace it?
#2 I received the deadworld mod, which rom gets replaced and what do you do with the 2 other pieces of plastic other than the large ring?
#3 The game restores to factory settings each time I turn it on
Thanks in advance
Welcome to the club
1. If you unscrew the board that has the flasher and 2 globes on it, there is a lock nut underneath and also one under the bottom half of the globe. I've never replaced mine so i'm not sure if you have to remove the whole shaft to get access to the lower lock nut.
2. Rom replaces the Game Rom already installed (it should have a sticker on it stating Judge Dredd), make sure the notch goes the same way when you replace it. What other bits of plastic? i only remember getting the Rom and the new larger ring plastic. Photos?
3. Does it have batteries in a holder on the MPU board? if so, replace them with new ones, hopefully won't be any acid leakage.
Quoted from PinRob:I know the quality may be lacking on some of the more detailed plastics compared to the original but complete plastic set is available again here.
Sold out quick
Quoted from Mancave:Welcome to the club
1. If you unscrew the board that has the flasher and 2 globes on it, there is a lock nut underneath and also one under the bottom half of the globe. I've never replaced mine so i'm not sure if you have to remove the whole shaft to get access to the lower lock nut.
2. Rom replaces the Game Rom already installed (it should have a sticker on it stating Judge Dredd), make sure the notch goes the same way when you replace it. What other bits of plastic? i only remember getting the Rom and the new larger ring plastic. Photos?
3. Does it have batteries in a holder on the MPU board? if so, replace them with new ones, hopefully won't be any acid leakage.
Thanks for the reply.
Here are some pics.
#1 the bottom of the planet
#2 the extra plastics
#3 the battery area
The round plastic is just a miniature version of the dead world ring they include for the heck of it. The other plastic is for the ball trough to cover any possible divits in the trough. With the dead world mod any problems with through causes issues with the game. Mike
Somebody has removed the normal AA battery holder and put in a coin type battery holder. Either the coin battery is dead or their mod is not installed/soldered correctly.
Thanks for the comments guys, will replace the coin and thanks Mike for the explanation of the plastics
Quoted from allsportdvd:Hi all, I just joined the club!
However, I have a couple of issues I'm hoping can be solved here
#1 my planet is cracked, how do I get the bottom half out to replace it?
#2 I received the deadworld mod, which rom gets replaced and what do you do with the 2 other pieces of plastic other than the large ring?
#3 The game restores to factory settings each time I turn it on
Thanks in advance
where did you get the deadworld mod and roms from? I need em!
Thought there was a lock nut under that board but obviously not, there's definitely 1 or 2 underneath the globe half. You may need to remove the assembly to get to it. Have a manual?
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:where did you get the deadworld mod and roms from? I need em!
From Pinbits mate
Quoted from allsportdvd:#3 the battery area
I would normally advise doing away with batteries all together and just go with a NVRam chip but looks like your Ram chip (one with the white label above the larger square one) is soldered directly to the board and not socketed. It's still a good option but if you aren't familiar with board work you will need to get someone to remove the Ram chip and solder a socket in for you. All extra cost of course, worth it in the long run though, once done it's DONE and never have to worry about changing batteries/ acid leakage again.
Quoted from Mancave:From Pinbits mate
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:where did you get the deadworld mod and roms from? I need em!
Pinbits it was
Quoted from Mancave:Thought there was a lock nut under that board but obviously not, there's definitely 1 or 2 underneath the globe half. You may need to remove the assembly to get to it. Have a manual?
I do have a manual, looks like the nut is under the plate in my picture. I think I'm better off gluing my new top half to the bottom half that's already there lol
Quoted from allsportdvd:I do have a manual, looks like the nut is under the plate in my picture. I think I'm better off gluing my new top half to the bottom half that's already there lol
Just had another squiz at the manual and yeah think your right, nut under that plate that's in your pic, and a couple under the globe half. The plate must unscrew otherwise the nut underneath it would never come off. My machine isn't working at the moment, waiting on driver board repairs and i need to take that whole assembly off anyway to do some other stuff. Give me a bit of time and i'll get back to you about how it comes off. I've got a new whole globe myself, bottom part isn't cracked but the thread is stuffed so i'm going to replace it all as i go.
Ok, here's how you do it. You won't need to remove the whole assembly from your machine, should be able to do it whilst it's attached.
1. Remove the split pin from underneath the assembly (pic 1)
2. Pull the shaft straight up and out until you get to the point the plugs won't go any further (pics 2 & 3)
3. Unscrew the lock nut that sits under that plate previously mentioned . VOILA, bottom globe half is free (ish)
4. The de-solder / re-soldering bit **If you have the tool that removes pins from plugs then make a note (take a picture) of which wires to which plug and positions, pull the wires through the shaft and everything is now free to remove/change over.
If you haven't got the tool it will be easier to de-solder the wires from the light board (again taking note of which wire goes where) and go from there.
5. Put it all back how ya found it
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