Edmonton, AB
Wow, those look terrible.
(Topic ID: 40984)
Linked Games
Judge Dredd
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
Fultondale, AL
Fortitude Valley
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Fifteen years for poor plastics!
Lol!!
here's my new JD club member update:
auto-plunger is fixed. wrong sleeve was installed. plunger was scraping on the middle bracket.
eagle is mounted. got the hardware list off marco here: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468.
removed deadworld mod. definitely less cool now, but want a working baseline while i fix everything else.
still need help with my weak left flipper, however. hardware looks like a rebuild. everything has the correct play to it. correctly spaced off my bushing. i cleaned the button optos.
i tested resistance over the coil. i got ~121 left and ~126 on the right side. would that make a difference? it's the correct coil #, doesn't have a williams label on it though. really, if i can get this fixed, i'll have a nice little JD on my hands.
Quoted from weaverj:here's my new JD club member update:
auto-plunger is fixed. wrong sleeve was installed. plunger was scraping on the middle bracket.
eagle is mounted. got the hardware list off marco here: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17468.
removed deadworld mod. definitely less cool now, but want a working baseline while i fix everything else.
still need help with my weak left flipper, however. hardware looks like a rebuild. everything has the correct play to it. correctly spaced off my bushing. i cleaned the button optos.
i tested resistance over the coil. i got ~121 left and ~126 on the right side. would that make a difference? it's the correct coil #, doesn't have a williams label on it though. really, if i can get this fixed, i'll have a nice little JD on my hands.
According to the manual it should have FL-11629 coils. They should read approx 4 ohms on the power winding and approx 132 ohms on the hold winding.
The upper right flipper should be a FL-11630, 4.7 ohms power winding, 160 ohms hold winding.
i see what you mean, i think. i went center lug to each side this time. 125.5 and 4.1. upper left and bottom right showed ~130 and ~4, both are williams labeled. need new coil, you think?
Quoted from weaverj:i see what you mean, i think. i went center lug to each side this time. 125.5 and 4.1. upper left and bottom right showed ~130 and ~4, both are williams labeled. need new coil, you think?
No, those readings seem normal to me. Try checking the DC voltage across the coil. The VDC across the coil is present as long as the game is turned on. All 4 flippers should have approx the same voltage. The manual lists it at 50VDC, but it's not uncommon to see that as high as 70VDC.
i took the flipper assembly apart again and replaced the coil sleeve. it was okay, but you never know. i also removed the opto board out of the cabinet to check solder joints, etc. i cleaned the optos, again. seems to be better now. maybe a little sticky at eos, but i can tell there's more power.
during my maintenance today, i broke the crane drop opto mounting bracket off the left ramp. i'm temporarily holding it in place with a zip-tie currently. without replacing the ramp, are there any recommended workarounds for that? mount some spacers into the side wood over there?
nobody has rigged something up for that? i was thinking of using the same setup the shooter lane plastic has, with those two nut pillars.
need a new lamp socket for under the plastic to the right of the meltdown captive balls. it's one of the bayonet style, under playfield types. could someone help me with a part #. there's a million different types when i search.
Quoted from weaverj:need a new lamp socket for under the plastic to the right of the meltdown captive balls. it's one of the bayonet style, under playfield types. could someone help me with a part #. there's a million different types when i search.
I no longer own a JD but does this page from the manual help?
the manual doesn't show gi lamps and sockets, at least from what i could find. either way, i ordered a short, under playfield style, 2-lug bayonet socket. i think it'll work. thanks, buddy.
i also ordered some spacer/mounting hardware similar to the shooter lane plastic stuff for my crane drop opto bracket that broke off the ramp. i'll post results.
Seeking crane lifter cam if anyone has one available. Not available for purchase from any online sellers currently. Thanks!
Anyone ever put a little lubricant on the bottom of the crane as seen below in this picture? I was putting some new hardware on my crane mech and noticed that at one point there had been some type of grease here. I was thinking of a little Super Lube 3 oz. Tube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon PTFE.
Quoted from weaverj:and i had some fun painting:
that's just with red. can't wait to put some green and yellow in there.
That looks amazing! Could you list what media you're using? I'd love to give my Dredd the same treatment.
createx transparent red, just brushing it on with detailing brushes. i also learned a pretty cool trick. a little naphtha on tp/tissue works like an eraser. you have to rub pretty hard, but it can remove mistakes and is really sweet when trying to blend or shade.
thanks for the compliment. yeah, i'm pretty stoked. unfortunately, now i'm going to wanna do the other side, which i thought was pretty decent before this.
Quoted from PinRob:Anyone ever put a little lubricant on the bottom of the crane as seen below in this picture? I was putting some new hardware on my crane mech and noticed that at one point there had been some type of grease here. I was thinking of a little Super Lube 3 oz. Tube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon PTFE.
Yep. Clean off the old one first. If you're feeling real ambitious you can do the deadworld gearbox 
did the green, redid the helmet red, added highlights on the bike and improved some blending. the green is sketchy in spots, mostly the knee pad. since it was green on blue, however, it's not that noticeable. it's tough to get an even layer of this paint with the little brushes i have before it starts to coagulate. that's why i redid the helmet. still waiting for my yellow to arrive.
IMAG0467[1] (resized).jpg
Quoted from weaverj:did the green, redid the helmet red, added highlights on the bike and improved some blending. the green is sketchy in spots, mostly the knee pad. since it was green on blue, however, it's not that noticeable. it's tough to get an even layer of this paint with the little brushes i have before it starts to coagulate. that's why i redid the helmet. still waiting for my yellow to arrive.
Very cool! Where did you get the paint from?
has anyone experienced balls getting stuck right at the top of the subway, under playfield section? i need to investigate, but it looks like there's a little groove in their on the metal section, that the ball gets hung up on. a little wiggle gets it going, but i don't wanna lose my bonus points to a tilt. know what i'm saying?
Quoted from weaverj:has anyone experienced balls getting stuck right at the top of the subway
Yep!
I had one of the metal guides come loose under there. Just pressing it back in did not work for long, so I used a little wood glue.
As for the Titans: Yup, got some (mixed colors) but have no pics of the machine. You can see them in the vid one page back. I do recommend them, except for the lower of the two next to the subway entrance (especially right side). These take a lot of punishment and tend to break up at the bend near the bolts. Either move them a little once they start tearing or try them one size larger and see if less tension helps.
Quoted from weaverj:i was thinking superbands would hold up good there, being harder material.
Edit: Cointaker has them
and i'm not even affiliated 
. i guess they'd hold up better than titans. anything's possible though.
Is there a hardware list anywhere? I need to replace every screw, bolt, post... Just about everything metal that is not a wire form or ball guide.
Quoted from weaverj:manual is a good start.
Manual has plastic parts and rubbers but not hardware listed
Quoted from weaverj:p2-33 (p101).
Good call. I have the page book marked too. Guess I need sleep. That'll take care of posts.
So that's a great start.
Marco doesn't seem to have all of the spacers, support post or ramp flaps
Quoted from BioBa:Can someone tell me where this plastic goes?
Screws onto the backboard down below the diverter and slightly to the right. So it sits just up from the back ball guide.
Quoted from ryandimx:also looking for a Pursuit assembly... hoping someone bought a few extra and has one on a shelf
Not available as a complete NOS assembly as far as i'm aware. Someone might have a 2nd hand one from a tear down. The plastic is available (pinballspareparts in Oz), so is the decal (a guy on Fleabay sells them), the bracket is relatively easy to make and the lamp holders are readily available, something to consider if you can't track that 2nd hand one down.
i replaced backbox and gi incandescents with natural white led's. i feel like it took away from some of the colors on it, especially the backbox. you guys think warm whites would bring it back much or should i try some color matching?
Quoted from tomh52722:"globe position 1" error.
Check your optos, they could be bad.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
