So i've been having a problem with my Dredd, well two!

By the way, I have Deadworld Mod with L1AT ROM from Pinbits and the new ball trough opto boards from Great Lakes Modular. This is important for later.

When putting all 3 balls into deadwood, the crane will pick up each of the balls slightly differently!

One ball will pick up perfectly and drop down the left ramp opto, the second one will pick it up off to one side and drag it on the ring and just barely make it to the left ramp opto drop, and the third ball will not make it at all to the left ramp opto and drop off the ring. If one or more balls do not drop down the left ramp opto I get ball errors either by early draining or two balls coming out of the trough when only one should!

The dead world ring seems to have a trail on it, like the balls have been dragged against it! I've tried using the planet and crane tests to adjust them but it doesn't seem to be working. What should I do?

My second problem, while bending the left ramp opto i accidentally broke it! Now it jut kinda hangs there. The rest of the ramp works fine though (this is the same ramp that the black out ramp attaches to). Has anyone used super glue on plastic ramps, do they work?

I can put together a video tomorrow if that helps!

Any help is much appreciated!

Although i haven't used super glue on ramps myself i can't see why it wouldn't work on that kind of plastic. If you do, go for a decent brand, i use Loctite 406 as it's far superior than the average stuff (keep it in the fridge too, last's longer).
As for the first problem, i doubt it has anything to do with the deadworld mod itself. Is the crane in the same position for the 2nd/3rd balls when it drops the ball? or doesn't move over as far. It almost sounds like the coil is lazy BUT when coils shag out they are either working or not.

As for the crane prob, you might want to check connectors and solder joints for the coil that lifts the crane. Sounds like a thermal problem to me (increasing resistance there as the joints heat up)..

Ball errors are bugs in the L1 firmware, that sadly have never been fixed.. I have my machine in a semi-public setting (local pinball club that is open to the public once a month and always to our members) and I had to change the roms to L7 to get it to run reliably (so that they could use it for tournaments).
One of the many deadworld problems was that if there were 2 balls on the planet when starting a game and 1 ball rolled onto the planet with lock not lit, the machine would go into ball search, unload all 3 balls and wreck havoc from that point on, totally breaking everything that has to do with multiball.
This was only one of several issues the members reported, but it was the one I could easily reproduce and a deal breaker for multiplayer/tournament games.

Since then I have installed L7 (leaving the deadworld mod in) and it has been running ever since, even in tournament-use. Once a ball goes to the planet the crane is immediately activated and fetches it after the first half loop.
Other notable changes are that the left shooter now finally works reliably and that there is a message when you open the coindoor (although HV is still on)..

Better late than never, right? On a related note, I realized the camera on my phone sucks...

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Also, I had a fellow pinsider cut out my deadworld ring for me and now I have some extra florescent pink material, so if anyone else wants one cut out shoot me a PM and we can work out a price. If you are in Canada, it should be cheaper than ordering from the states.

It could be bad data from the fliptronics board. Do you have another WPC that you could swap the fliptronics board with to test?

I have the tower decals in hand. If you could not print your own, let me know, I have a few sets. $15 Shipped. I can ship internationally.

Thanks,
Bill

I ordered a set of tower decals from Soapman. Got them quick and I think they look pretty good. I went a little more simple. Just 3 LED bulbs wired to the meltdown arrow underneath the playfield, and each tower is held on by a piece of mounting tape. image.jpg

Looks awesome Philly!!!
I miss my Dredd. I'll have to get another one some day.

I recently joined the Dredd club! It is in great shape with a near perfect playfield and a topper. I just need to add the Deadworld mod and some spotlights. This game rocks!

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Looks great!! I love the blue planet too. I was looking for a blue planet when I was restoring my JD, couldn't find one anywhere.

All planet colors are the same - smoke color. The color of the LEDs changes the color of the planet

Here you go. Didn't have the camera with me, so just some bad cell phone pics. But you get the idea..

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Ooooooo red, very cool

My planet was red, definite red color. There is a smoke color?

It may have been an after market remake perhaps, all the NOS one's are smoke coloured that i know of. That's what is on my machine and PSPA has them on their website.

I'm in the club. Fun game, quiet challenging and I've only had one really good game so far. On your games does the left ramp go sdtm a lot if you don't have the power to make it up there? I normally don't nudge much but I've found it's essential to nudge well on this game. It's also my first widebody and you can really tell, I like that some areas feel slower but then others feel just as fast as any other game. Keeps you on your feet.

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I'm also amazed that JD can be had at such a budget price too, there's a lot of game for the price and the art/theme is amazing.

Quick question for other owners, is there a way to disable the extra ball buy in option after each game? Haven't had a game with this feature before and can't see it in the menu.

Yep, go to your Adjustment menu >>>>A2. Feature adjustments >>>>last option on the list No 20 (buy extra ball) and set it to No.

Thanks for that, don't know how I missed it. Do most dredds drain sdtm if you don't make it all the way around the left ramp?

Mine doesn't. It hardly center drains at all. Maybe try changing the playfield tilt a little?

I'll have a look, if It's a soft miss it doesn't drain but if you get a solid shot up that just doesn't get past the turn it'll come back sdtm fast. Also had something weird with safecracker this morning, when I started it a coil somewhere was continuously firing for about 10 seconds. Never had it do that before and couldn't recreate it either or tell where it came from.

When my machine takes down the middle 'D' letter drop target ready for the Safecracker, it makes clicking noises like it's still attempting to drop it. It was worse before I cleaned the drop target mech and now stops after a few seconds.

actually it's possible the d didn't drop, I was trying to figure out where the sound was coming from but it sounded more from the right side which has nothing I could think of that would be doing it, hard to tell mid game what the noise was and when I tried it again I had no sound so that could be what happened. I have had some other minor issues with the drop targets being hit softly and not going all the way down so maybe I need to give that a look. I'll have a better look when I get a chance, was only wanting to play one game before work and spent too much time trying to recreate it any way.

Yup, Same here.

Not after I rebuilt the flippers. Made a huge difference in making the ramps for me

Thanks for the help guys, it is my D target not dropping during safecracker.

I've only had to do minor work before (changing optos/switches easy stuff) so how big of a job is it to get that assembly out? Looks like a few things around it need to be removed to get to it. My springs look like they need to be changed, someone has hooked them on at a lower point because the ends look worn this is likely why some targets occasionally don't drop all the way on soft hits but not sure if it'd cause my D not to drop when needed (everything raises fine).

Also how is that assembly meant to work dropping target? I understand how they raise but not how it is supposed to drop the D.

It's been a while since I removed it, but I seem to remember it is held on with several screws and with a bit of jiggling and removing of connections, it will just come away. If not, just remove anything you need to get at it and reverse when putting it back in. The connections are keyed so it should be difficult to connect it up again wrong. I took pictures when I did it just to make sure!

My springs were really caked in dust and grime and after a good clean they work a lot better. I used this opportunity to add some aftermarket J, U, D, G and E stickers to the drops. Make sure that there is a millimetre or two clearance along the front of them so they don't get stuck against the wood. One of the letters on mine can sometimes be a bit lazy (occasionally dropping very, very slowly), it's on the list to fix one day, but I can live with it as it doesn't happen too often.

It comes out fairly easily, not a major job, just take your time with it and i also recommend taking some pics before removal so you are clear how it goes back in. I always do that with any removal/clean/etc now cause i've had troubles with various parts by not doing so previously, especially plugs that can be reversed (best option is to mark the plug with a marker pen, i do a line vertically crossing both plugs so you know the two shall meet ) I also have a complete drop target assembly for sale in case yours is shagged (sorry, couldn't help a bit of advertising there ) Good luck with the removal.

If i don't need to take out the board in front of it that makes it a lot easier and doable for me. Hopefully I can figure it out but I might order some new springs for it instead of cleaning, as I said some of mine are made shorter by being hooked to the end 3/4 because the last quarter with the loop has lost it's tension.

Make sure to clean everything while it's apart. Dirt/grime is what makes it sluggish. Don't use lubricant, just simple green, novus 1, or maybe a little rubbing alcohol and get in there and clean everything. Replacing the coil sleeve will help too. The reason someone made the spring shorter was to increase the tension to pull them down quicker. If you make the spring longer without cleaning it will only get slower.

Just installed a Sparky Pinball Micro Display Mod in my Dredd. Looks great!2015-09-10 08.04.02.jpg

Running a loop of Super Fiend. This is one of his new designs that are coming soon.

Does anyone know exactly where flasher 24 under globe is? Mines either out or missing. It's not the one inside the deadworld either.

There is a large plastic tray underneath the globe. Lit by a long pcb full of bulbs. On this PCB are 2 flashers, those are #24.
But the whole thing is usually barely visible... In fact I have never noticed them firing during gameplay.

Modded mine last week to change that and put a RGB led strip around the tray. Powered by some custom electronics with a small AVR, that slowly fades sort-of-randomly between colors on low brightness and fires the whole thing with full power white when the flashers fire.

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Ahh ok thank you. I think someone put the regular #555 bulbs into the spots where there should be the 906 flashers in.

Back in!

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This is the ONLY game I've ever sold and wanted back. Took about a year to get it back in place.

I had the color DMD in White Water, but the dots in JD are SO MUCH BETTER, I had to move it. I doubt I'll get one to replace the one from WH2O....

That looks sweet!! Especially with the color DMD. Congrats!!!

I love my JD , but sadly I need room... Anyone know someone who wants in the club?

Mines very nice I have it listed in the market, I'm sure I'll take offers

15 years for flatulentcy!

Deadworld assembly, including gearbox, up on eBay (not my listing). Not sure how the pricing looks, and sounds like the gearbox needs repair, but thought I'd pass it on in case anyone's desperate for one.

ebay.com link: Judge Dredd Pinball Machine Deadworld Motor Gearbox Assembly

I'm a little surprised World Cup Soccer is ahead of the Judge in the thread below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-2500-90s-dmds-round-4/page/2#top

I had a WCS94 for a year. Got rid of it. Bought back a Judge Dredd because I missed it so much after selling it.

Agreed - BSD was bound to win that poll but is also $300+ more than the others. And Fishtales is very well loved too. But surprising to see WCS squeaking toward a third place finish. Maybe people heard JPop's recent claim that it took ten years to develop WCS!

Anybody have a nice Main ramp they want to sell?

bob at langelius dot com

Want to buy:
-Judge Dredd eagle topper... even used at this point, having problems finding one
-Judge Dredd translite

Thanks! --Dan

Not mine but saw this on eBay ebay.com link: Judge Dredd Pinball Translite

Thanks, I snagged that one. I picked up a Dredd in a container deal, apparently the Italian operator thought putting coin counters behind the translite and cutting a hole so he could read it was a good idea. Doh. Now to start removing the hacks and cleaning this baby up.

As of this afternoon I'm in the club! Already loving this game.

New Dredd

These look cool! Are you willing to share your art files and process in printing them on transparent stock? Thanks!

EDIT: I see that they're probably from Pinball Center:
http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-modding/illuminated-pinball-cards/192/judge-dredd-custom-card-transparent

I'm looking for a few JD decal scans, please PM if you've got any of the following:

JD Blackout Ramp

the "Black Out Jackpot" and "Dredd's Spaceship" decals (I think these are part nos. 31-1795-3 and 31-1795-4)

JD Subway Entrance

and the Subway Entrance decal (part no. 31-1793-4).

Thanks!

Does anyone have a confirmed-complete list of rings/post sleeves/bumpers for JD? Trying to put a Titan rings order together but I know manual counts/sizes can be off so thought I'd check if someone has a good list before I order.

[EDIT: hey look, if you answer this or my prior request you get to be the 1,000th post in this thread!]

Just going to bump for a 1000