Quoted from Turtle:

According to the manual Fuse 112 is related to BR3. So I would check BR3. There are videos on you tube for this. Good luck.

Quoted from LTG:

Disconnect the wires. Then try it. If fuse doesn't blow it isn't BR3. Then transistor driving it is the first suspect.
LTG : )

Quoted from Turtle:

BR3 is on the power driver board. If you look in the manual it will show you were BR3 is located (it's one of the square components in the upper right corner). You will need to remove the board to test BR3. Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM)?
Also, check your LEDs on your Driver board. I believe 6 of the 7 should be lit once it has fully booted. Check voltages on the driver board using your DMM.

Quoted from terryb:

As zaza said that coil is powered by the fliptronics board so don't worry about BR3. Since the coil locks on when the game is turned on I would suspect a shorted transistor.
I think that's called the up/down post diverter in which case it is Q1 on the fliptronics board. Since you're looking for a dead short just test from each leg to the other two legs (game off, DMM in diode/continuity mode). If you read a short then that's your problem.

Quoted from zaza:

The 2 gates for the 'mist track' are also from the fliptronics board so maybe it is related.

Best to do now is take the fliptronic board out of the machine and check/compare all transistors+diodes
Check the 4 fuses for the correct rating.
Inspect the diverter-coil, it has likely been hot.
Reseat the ribboncable between cpu and fliptronic board.

Quoted from zaza:

correct, but you can try it this way:
With machine OFF, only disconnect J901 from the fliptronicboard and put a fresh fuse in F112 on the PowerDriverBoard.
Power-up the machine and go into solenoid test. If you are able to activate coils #1 to #16 + #25 , then the PDB is fine.

Quoted from zaza:

another easy test with the multimeter and machine 'OFF'
-Unplug J902, (located above the 4 large transistors on the fliptronic board)
-DMM set to 'diode test' and RED pen on the large heatsink
- With black pen, test all pins of J902, values around 450-500mV are normal. Value around 0mV is a short.

Quoted from zaza:

correct, but you can try it this way:
With machine OFF, only disconnect J901 from the fliptronicboard and put a fresh fuse in F112 on the PowerDriverBoard.
Power-up the machine and go into solenoid test. If you are able to activate coils #1 to #16 + #25 , then the PDB is fine.

Quoted from zaza:

Try RED pen on another GND point. Is there a continuity-beep in the diode-test on this DMM ?

That means that PDB is ok and that the problem is on the fliptronic board.
Likely one TIP36c transistor but as said above, test all Q's + D's + Br.1 on the fliptronic board.

Quoted from zaza:

Try RED pen on another GND point. Is there a continuity-beep in the diode-test on this DMM ?

That means that PDB is ok and that the problem is on the fliptronic board.
Likely one TIP36c transistor but as said above, test all Q's + D's + Br.1 on the fliptronic board.

Quoted from zaza:

All 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard are used, 2 for the flippercoils and the other 2 for solenoid #33-#36.
Put fuses back and test again.
It seems that there was a problem with the ribboncable between CPU- and FliptronicBoard and that a coil was activated by wrong data communication.

Quoted from zaza:

All 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard are used, 2 for the flippercoils and the other 2 for solenoid #33-#36.
Put fuses back and test again.
It seems that there was a problem with the ribboncable between CPU- and FliptronicBoard and that a coil was activated by wrong data communication.

Quoted from zaza:

Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?

Quoted from zaza:

Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?

Quoted from zaza:

Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?

Quoted from zaza:

Bring them a little to each other.
Loosen the screws a little so you can move the brackets a little and then tighten them back to the playfield.
Also check the left motor bracket that is not bend towards the left.

Quoted from zaza:

Bring them a little to each other.
Loosen the screws a little so you can move the brackets a little and then tighten them back to the playfield.
Also check the left motor bracket that is not bend towards the left.

Quoted from zaza:

On each side of the track is a switch where the software detects that the magnet has reached the left or right side.
Page 2-46, Switch#81 left and #83 on the right.
Test them and adjust the switch-levers when necessary. Remember that the rod has some space between the motor and right suspension, so switch adjustment is done with consideration of the extra few millimeters.