Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993Hello to all pinsiders,
I need some help, im a bit lost on this one..
The machine is blowing the F112 fuse at the start up, ive tested with severeal fuses, and whats happening is that the coil (picture 2) of the left ramp diverter (picture1) is always powering and pushing the ramp down, then the fuse burns...
Any ideias?
Thanks
934d91c5b7c8bda0003937388a94a782ce72c911 (resized).png
15231456_1163280417060804_790444570_o (resized).jpg
Quoted from Turtle:According to the manual Fuse 112 is related to BR3. So I would check BR3. There are videos on you tube for this. Good luck.
Any other direction?
Thanks
BR3 is on the power driver board. If you look in the manual it will show you were BR3 is located (it's one of the square components in the upper right corner). You will need to remove the board to test BR3. Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM)?
Also, check your LEDs on your Driver board. I believe 6 of the 7 should be lit once it has fully booted. Check voltages on the driver board using your DMM.
This coil is powered by the fliptronic board.
check Bridge1 and the large transistors Q1-Q4 on this FT2-board.
Quoted from LTG:Disconnect the wires. Then try it. If fuse doesn't blow it isn't BR3. Then transistor driving it is the first suspect.
LTG : )
Disconnect which wires?
Thanks
Quoted from Turtle:BR3 is on the power driver board. If you look in the manual it will show you were BR3 is located (it's one of the square components in the upper right corner). You will need to remove the board to test BR3. Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM)?
Also, check your LEDs on your Driver board. I believe 6 of the 7 should be lit once it has fully booted. Check voltages on the driver board using your DMM.
Yes my friend, i have a DMM. What voltage BR3 need to have?
As zaza said that coil is powered by the fliptronics board so don't worry about BR3. Since the coil locks on when the game is turned on I would suspect a shorted transistor.
I think that's called the up/down post diverter in which case it is Q1 on the fliptronics board. Since you're looking for a dead short just test from each leg to the other two legs (game off, DMM in diode/continuity mode). If you read a short then that's your problem.
Quoted from terryb:As zaza said that coil is powered by the fliptronics board so don't worry about BR3. Since the coil locks on when the game is turned on I would suspect a shorted transistor.
I think that's called the up/down post diverter in which case it is Q1 on the fliptronics board. Since you're looking for a dead short just test from each leg to the other two legs (game off, DMM in diode/continuity mode). If you read a short then that's your problem.
Thats seams logic, i dont know if it helps and im not sure about this, but i guess the mist mecanism is not also starting. Im saying this because i think most of the times i start the machine the mist also starts, doing is normal procedure.
Quoted from RGAires:dont know if it helps and im not sure about this, but i guess the mist mecanism is not also starting.
The 2 gates for the 'mist track' are also from the fliptronics board so maybe it is related.
tech chart Fliptronic.jpg
Best to do now is take the fliptronic board out of the machine and check/compare all transistors+diodes
Check the 4 fuses for the correct rating.
Inspect the diverter-coil, it has likely been hot.
Reseat the ribboncable between cpu and fliptronic board.
Quoted from zaza:The 2 gates for the 'mist track' are also from the fliptronics board so maybe it is related.
Best to do now is take the fliptronic board out of the machine and check/compare all transistors+diodes
Check the 4 fuses for the correct rating.
Inspect the diverter-coil, it has likely been hot.
Reseat the ribboncable between cpu and fliptronic board.
Just a simple test, i dont know if it helps or not, but if i disconnect all the cables from the fliptronic board, and power ON the machine im not supposed to have this issue right?
Regards
Quoted from RGAires:if i disconnect all the cables from the fliptronic board, and power ON the machine im not supposed to have this issue right?
correct, but you can try it this way:
With machine OFF, only disconnect J901 from the fliptronicboard and put a fresh fuse in F112 on the PowerDriverBoard.
Power-up the machine and go into solenoid test. If you are able to activate coils #1 to #16 + #25 , then the PDB is fine.
Quoted from zaza:correct, but you can try it this way:
With machine OFF, only disconnect J901 from the fliptronicboard and put a fresh fuse in F112 on the PowerDriverBoard.
Power-up the machine and go into solenoid test. If you are able to activate coils #1 to #16 + #25 , then the PDB is fine.
Im going to test it latter and then post the result.
many thanks zaza
another easy test with the multimeter and machine 'OFF'
-Unplug J902, (located above the 4 large transistors on the fliptronic board)
-DMM set to 'diode test' and RED pen on the large heatsink
- With black pen, test all pins of J902, values around 450-500mV are normal. Value around 0mV is a short.
Quoted from zaza:another easy test with the multimeter and machine 'OFF'
-Unplug J902, (located above the 4 large transistors on the fliptronic board)
-DMM set to 'diode test' and RED pen on the large heatsink
- With black pen, test all pins of J902, values around 450-500mV are normal. Value around 0mV is a short.
Well i dont know if im doing this right, but i get no values..
Quoted from zaza:correct, but you can try it this way:
With machine OFF, only disconnect J901 from the fliptronicboard and put a fresh fuse in F112 on the PowerDriverBoard.
Power-up the machine and go into solenoid test. If you are able to activate coils #1 to #16 + #25 , then the PDB is fine.
Ive unpluged the J901 and the fuse is not burning
Quoted from RGAires:Well i dont know if im doing this right, but i get no values..
Try RED pen on another GND point. Is there a continuity-beep in the diode-test on this DMM ?
Quoted from RGAires:Ive unpluged the J901 and the fuse is not burning
That means that PDB is ok and that the problem is on the fliptronic board.
Likely one TIP36c transistor but as said above, test all Q's + D's + Br.1 on the fliptronic board.
Quoted from zaza:Try RED pen on another GND point. Is there a continuity-beep in the diode-test on this DMM ?
That means that PDB is ok and that the problem is on the fliptronic board.
Likely one TIP36c transistor but as said above, test all Q's + D's + Br.1 on the fliptronic board.
Quoted from zaza:Try RED pen on another GND point. Is there a continuity-beep in the diode-test on this DMM ?
That means that PDB is ok and that the problem is on the fliptronic board.
Likely one TIP36c transistor but as said above, test all Q's + D's + Br.1 on the fliptronic board.
The DMD is working fine.. im going to try another GND point. Seams like good news, if the driverboard is not broken..
Yes im going to check the Qs + Ds and Br1.. The magnet is not working also..
If you guys know more tests, please tell me.
Thanks for all the help
Hello again,
Ive tested the principal Q's, all seem just fine, ive reset all the ribbon cables, and now NO fuse is burnning.
But now any of the flipper coils are working, and no magnet.. i have remove the fuses of the upper flippers because dracula dont have upper flippers. any tip about this one? Where to start?
Thanks
All 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard are used, 2 for the flippercoils and the other 2 for solenoid #33-#36.
Put fuses back and test again.
It seems that there was a problem with the ribboncable between CPU- and FliptronicBoard and that a coil was activated by wrong data communication.
Quoted from zaza:All 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard are used, 2 for the flippercoils and the other 2 for solenoid #33-#36.
Put fuses back and test again.
It seems that there was a problem with the ribboncable between CPU- and FliptronicBoard and that a coil was activated by wrong data communication.
Missing those 2 fuses, can be actually the problem for the magnet not working, or is not related? Ok im going to put the both fuses and test it again.
you are the man zaza
I don't think it's related.
The magnet is solenoid#27 and driven by the powerdriverboard via a high-current-driver-board. (manual page 3-10)
Sharing fuse F103 with droptarget sol#25. (I have to rely on the manual so verify correct fuse)
Note that the high current board needs an additional connection to GND from J103, check that one too.
Quoted from zaza:All 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard are used, 2 for the flippercoils and the other 2 for solenoid #33-#36.
Put fuses back and test again.
It seems that there was a problem with the ribboncable between CPU- and FliptronicBoard and that a coil was activated by wrong data communication.
Seems you are right, ive replace the ribboncable, replace all the 4 fuses on the FliptronicBoard, and everything is working now.
Quoted from RGAires:Now i have another problem the motor of the magnet is working, but... The reversing screw shaft is not on the right place, and when the motor starts, the shaft moves from it´s place, any tips to solve this issue... i send a photo to help you guys understand the problem.
Regards
Quoted from zaza:Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?
Is too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right...
Quoted from RGAires:Is too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right... It fits but when the motor start fall out of place..
Quoted from zaza:Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?
,
Actualy it fits, but is too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right and it falls out of place...
Quoted from RGAires:Actualy it fits, but is too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right and it falls out of place...
Quoted from zaza:Very nice it is solved without changing the bridge but keep in mind that problems with ribbon cable can come back.
Does the rod have too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right that it falls out of place ?
Or does is not fit ?
Actualy it fits, but is too much room between the motor (left) and the suspension on the right and it falls out of place when the motor starts..
Bring them a little to each other.
Loosen the screws a little so you can move the brackets a little and then tighten them back to the playfield.
Also check the left motor bracket that is not bend towards the left.
Quoted from zaza:Bring them a little to each other.
Loosen the screws a little so you can move the brackets a little and then tighten them back to the playfield.
Also check the left motor bracket that is not bend towards the left.
Ok im going to do it.
thanks again zaza.
Quoted from zaza:Bring them a little to each other.
Loosen the screws a little so you can move the brackets a little and then tighten them back to the playfield.
Also check the left motor bracket that is not bend towards the left.
Ive done that and now is ok, but i guess something is missing, because the magnet motor sometimes starts, sometimes dont.. On magnet tests i have "LEFT ERROR".
Regards
On each side of the track is a switch where the software detects that the magnet has reached the left or right side.
Page 2-46, Switch#81 left and #83 on the right.
Test them and adjust the switch-levers when necessary. Remember that the rod has some space between the motor and right suspension, so switch adjustment is done with consideration of the extra few millimeters.
Quoted from zaza:On each side of the track is a switch where the software detects that the magnet has reached the left or right side.
Page 2-46, Switch#81 left and #83 on the right.
Test them and adjust the switch-levers when necessary. Remember that the rod has some space between the motor and right suspension, so switch adjustment is done with consideration of the extra few millimeters.
Ok, but is not supposed that the motor starts on magnet test? i hear that something wants to start but nothins happens... now the motor of the magnet dont start..
thanks again
Quoted from RGAires:magnet motor sometimes starts, sometimes dont.
Check wires from motor-drive from Powerdriver to motor.
Measure Voltage at both lugs on motor (in rest both are ~20Vdc).
bsd motor.jpg
Now is working ok again, ive just reset connections.
One question, the sound is working but sometimes gets to slow and diferent, ribbon cable maybe?
Regards
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dracula-diverter-coil-help and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Allentown, PA