Seem fine isn't good enough - pull and check with a meter.

If fuse is good, then this : http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

LTG : )

So, I am a visual learner with someone explaining things to me, and your problem is covered by the Pinball Ninja website, with a couple excellent videos that can walk you through the Pinwiki steps in LTG's post above.

If you follow the PinWiki instructions, awesome - but if not - I would HIGHLY recommend paying $20 and having lifetime access to one of the absolute best repositories of information in the world. This exact problem is covered at least 8 times on each website over 6 or so games with TZ getting the honor of repeated diagnosis.

I am in no way associated with the website nor do I get kickbacks. I just know an INCREDIBLE source of information when I see it, and with his YT videos set to private with access only through the site, it is well worth the $20 admission.

http://www.pinballninja.com

Purchase a cheap voltmeter would be helpful.

I do see the 12V digital voltage LED is not lit and F115 looks like it may be blown, but it also could be dirt I am seeing through the fuse that is on the fuse holder. Testing with a meter would be the best thing to do. You can replace it with a slo-blo 3/4 amp 250v fuse. If you replace the fuse and the LED is still not lit, then your C2 likely had failed and eaten up the pad/trace under it breaking the connection to the F115 fuse. In any case, you should replace C2 (100uf 35v or 50v electrolytic capacitor) anyway.

Dracula help (resized).png

And the battery holder, and under the battery holder, and leaching down.

Check with a pro if it can be repaired or cheaper to replace.

LTG : )

Board is done. Get a replacement MPU, Rottendog WPC89

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/

Now, ya gotta love the roofing nail in the battery holder.

Battery corrosion can cause all types of issues, including yours. Get that board repaired - remove the batteries at a minimum to remove the source, then research on this site on how to remove the corrosion. Lots of advice out there. A spare board is always needed.

If you end up purchasing a new board and plan to dispose of the old board I would be interested in it (I'm local to you). Feel free to PM me if so.

Or send your existing board out for repair. Barakandl, Chris Hibler, Coin-Op Cauldron are a few good people to send your board to for repair. I find the original boards are typically fine for years once gone over by a pro.