So tonight I think I feel like I came up with a good, cheap, and easy solution to the mounting issues with the Dalek base to the motor plate.

I bought twp 1/2" x 1 1/2" corner brackets. I pack of 4 #10-32 2" screws(could be shorter but will be cut later.

I hat the nuts and washers laying around.

tools needed
Dremel with heavy duty cut off wheels.
Screwdriver(if you don't have a vise you can just screw the bracket to the side of a table)

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Just showing some pics of what material I cut out.
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I'm going to try mounting the back with the bracket towards the back of the head. The idea being that I can keep more of the Dalek neck as seem in the pic above.
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Install new slotted piece onto existing screws.
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Cut off the existing screw.
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Base sits much lower now
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Attach new bolts with nut tight against new piece
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Using washers and two more nuts you can now adjust the mounts so that the base can be
Clamped with the two washers. This allows for mechanical fastening without modifying the exiting base.
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This cost about $5 to make and took less than thirty minutes.

TaylorVA and Faz, et.al. I came across this thread several months after adding the Davidson Wobble Head to my machine. Interesting how the bolts from the bottom plate did not line up with your Dalek base either. I wonder why? I chose to mark the base plate where the holes in the Dalek Base was and made new holes. Then moved the mounting bolts over to the lined up Dalek Base.

So I've had this kit for 10, 12, IDK how many years. Never installed it. Tonight I thought "tonight's the night!" I have absolutely everything except the centering strip.

I loaned the head to a friend who 3D scanned it and I think he might have removed the strip. How thick is that thing? I'm gonna have to make one I guess.

Following!

I intend to install my kit pretty soon.

Ill post what i did and a vid if it works at all ! Lol.

The strip looks like 3/32" steel or slightly thinner.

Its a simple part and you should be able to fab it up without any trouble.

Maybe a piece cut out of an old siderail. Would be perfect.

Cool! Thanks! It's just to line the thing up on the post so not super precise. I had it mounted at one time so there's a screw hole on the head already.

Please post your trials and tribulations!

I need moral support lol.

Responding to an earlier question about the Dalek head fit.

These seem to be warped from age or just how it was pulled from the mold which is why I added the slotted attachment post.

I didn’t find it a difficult install at all, but having a way to adjust the Dalek head is key to getting a clean(factory) look IMO.

I really like the slotted adjusters!

Simple and easy to make.

Several months later, My Wobble head is still functioning perfect. During Video mode, it is hard for me to stop looking at it moving with the voice, and concentrate on jumping Doctors. I really prefer it to the cheaper version, that I had installed first. I have several Dalek Heads that I have collected. They range from perfectly round and straight, to melted slumping to the right by about 1/2 inch. I attributed it to the heat bulb being on for months to years. I have read that you can put it in a hot bowl of water and then put over a block of wood the right length and when it cools, it will retain the right shape. Have yet to try that. I did trim the top ring off the base. I also made adjustments to bring the head closer to the base.

Mark Davidson just let me know that he just finished 6 more Wobble head kits and added them to his website. I bought another one, so he has 5 left now.
https://www.basementarcade.com/Project-Wobble-Head.html

His newest versions are much better these days.

Im super pleased with the quality of mine.

Latest Wobble head kit just arrived. Will try to photo document the installation.

Awesome!

Looking forward to seeing this.

My progress so far. But am still in custom painting mode.
First pics are of the top ring being cut off level on the base, that interferes with head swivel and getting head closer to body.
Third pic is a construction paper template of motor base, so that I will know where to drill holes for attachment to the top of pinball.
Fifth picture is the trimming of inside the Dalek body for the motor assembly to fit inside, as well as cuts for the attachment bolts.
The remaining pictures are of it assembled and ready for paint.
Looks like I will have to modify the Bulb stand in the shape of an S for clearance. Or maybe go with 3 LEDs in head.

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Finally, I installed my dalek kit.

Pictures to follow.

All I can say is, Mark Davidson IS A GOD ! ! !

Its worth every penny !

I absolutely love this mod.

get it here:

https://www.basementarcade.com/Wobble_Purchase.html

I so totally agree! I watch it with the lights out. Sometimes I almost miss the beginning of video mode jumps watching the Dalek talk to me. LoL

Here is my install experience:

First make sure you get a snack, this is going to be a long install.
My apprentice is curious and somewhat willing to help, but lacks focus.
So, Im going solo on this journey.
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The instructions in the booklet are dead on perfect.
I cut a hole in a small box to make a work surface in order to not smash the motor terminals or break off the wires.
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Remove the tub and the dalek.
Remove the light post.
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Unplug the flasher lamp wire.
Cut off the 30 year old zip ties to separate the wires.
You wont need the light post again, so put it aside for something else..

Take a look at your Dalek.
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Rip his head off! This was a little worrisome as I didnt know what to expect.
But without gripping his nose, you can get your fingers in between the head and body.
With a lot of pressure and pulling, it pops right off.

The glue appears to be hide glue or titebond, definitely not a plastic glue.

Im surprised that the heads dont actually fall off, they are not really securely glued on.
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The glue easily scrapes off with a plastic razor blade.
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After a little cleaning, its time to install the head support.

Drill a hole in the top of the head?

The 3/32" hole recommended on the top is too small to get the screw in. 7/64" is perfect. 1/8" would be too lose for a snug fit.

Next the support bracket:

The mounting screw goes on the nose side to avoid any conflicts with the center shaft and lamp support.

I opted to initially install it to the rear in order to get some measurements, then move it to the correct location later.

The booklet says to line it up 1/2" from the edge and the support will hang down at a pretty extreme angle.
This is approximate, and will work, but not centered perfectly in my case.

After looking at it and measuring the centers, 9/16" from the edge was perfect.
I also bent the support so that it was level.
Bending it makes it way easier to mount it on to the shaft. and takes the pressure off the plastic edge to keep it from cracking off.
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I also had to put a small bend in the lamp post to keep it away from the bushing with the locking pins.
Its best to install the bushing at this point.

Slide bushing onto the shaft, locking pins facing upwards, adjust the lamp post to give it clearance by bending it a little.
I put a small "S" bend in it.

Install the head and screw it down lightly. Its best to not over tighten the head screw at all during any part the installation.

You will install it many times and dont want to wear out the plastic.

Slide the bushing up, engage the locking pins, tighten the set-screw. That's it.

Next, try to fit the body on the mechanism!

Its fitting a square peg in a round hole!

Take your time with this.

Its not listed in the instructions, but the opto-interrupter goes in the front with the adjuster brackets on the right.

You can do it the opposite but it appears that way in the pictures in the booklet.

This position makes the unit sit far forward from the Dalek's original position. Its not ideal.

Flipping it reverse as TaylorVA did sets the unit further back but requires a bit more material removal to get the mech inside the Dalek body.

Either way, I figured that I might have to elongate the hole in the backbox top to get it where it was from the factory.

Knowing this, I decided to go with the booklet position and rework the hole in the backbox a little..

Along with everyone else I had to cut a couple "V" notches in the base to get the corners of the mech to go in.
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I used a big flat file to remove the material a little at a time as needed.
There is no official template as all heads are slightly different, but they all go in similarly. Just whittle away at it until it goes in.

I also had to adjust the mounting holes in the body quite a bit.
Mostly side drilling them as needed.
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After spending a couple hours on this, finally it will just "pop" in.
The adjusters on the mech allow for side-to-side and up-and-down movement but no forward and back adjustment.

Forward and back is accomplished by rotating the mech, you get about 1/4" of adjustment.
I doesnt seem like much, but its plenty really.
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My height adjustment was close enough from the factory setup.
The screw in the head ends up 1/16" from hitting the underside of the tub.

I could have lowered it another 1/16" but that would involve the height adjustment screws, and i didnt want to reposition my center as it was pretty close.

After 3 1/2 hours of slow steady work (with no help from the cat) you should get a perfectly centered shaft.
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All that's left is to mount the head and check for level.
You can level the body via the mounting nuts.
The head can be carefully bent into position if needed.

Then you can admire your 4 hours work:
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Installation onto the game is pretty straight forward and pretty easy for testing.

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The wire placement guide in the booklet really helped out a lot!

In my case I would have had to move the led board 1/2" towards the front (as suggested in the booklet) and then move the tub further forwards to keep the Dalek's nose from hitting the tub.

After doing a temporary install and getting some measurements, I opted instead to elongate the hole in the backbox 3/4" to the rear and 1/4" to the left to center the Dalek back to where it was initially.

It was fairly straight forward.

I just shoved a rag in the hole and perf drilled a series of 1/8" holes and side drilled them out.
The end looked like a rough keyhole cut, but the mech base plate covers it completely.

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Total time, working slowly and methodically 5 hrs, with a 30 min lunch break.
It was well worth the time spent.

One can certainly do it all in about 2.5 hours after doing it once or twice.

I cannot describe how much nicer this unit is compared to that silly $100 servo system that breaks every 6 months and doesn't interact with the game...other than a flasher hook-up.

This is the real deal!

Its not for the novice builder, but its not terribly difficult either.
It just takes a bit of time to get it right.

And now, see it in action!
This is version 2 of the kit and its very smooth running.

That looks great! The motor sounds pretty loud from the video when it runs. Is it noticeably noisy while playing?

I cant hear it at all when playing and it runs all the time.
It was shocking to see how much its used.

I never knew how much I missing out on.

Its a very cool addition to the game.

The game was designed around it.

If the music and call outs are turned off, yes you hear the motor running. But when I have my pinsound turned up with one of the custom mixes, I barely hear the motor. From my experience.

I actually like the way the slight noise draws attention to it.

Dalek's are typically annoying anyways

My Dalek Wobble head is now over a year old and still working perfectly! I had forgotten about this Install thread. I am about to install a second Dalek in my new build of the Dr Who Pinball. So I am reviewing these helpful hints. I chose to repaint my Dalek and lower the head so light does not leak out as bad. I noticed on my first install, that when the Supreme Dalek on the right of the screen is talking, there is no motion or lights flashing on the wobble head. But when the left video Dalek talks, it is keyed to the wobble head, which is just right! I have had thoughts of building a Supreme Dalek in White and Gold and a big round head, like in the video, to sit on the right side of the Back Box Head. We all know that Davros is inside. Right?