(Topic ID: 223877)

Dr Who Opto Question


By tjprice222

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 81 days ago by beeker3000
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

optocover (resized).jpg
312AEBD5-5AC2-4766-A672-41E07EFFDE01 (resized).jpeg
30D4F78D-F4D5-4875-B8AD-FE09CA99CBBF (resized).jpeg
Photo Aug 23, 9 48 29 PM (resized).jpg
Photo Aug 23, 9 42 53 PM (resized).jpg

#1 7 months ago

Hey all - I'm working on the Doctor Who Time Expander and my optos have been acting up - particularly the ones on the left and right. After opening it up, I found this wire soldered between two opto receivers. I assume it didn't come from the factory like this but can anyone confirm for me? It's also hard for me to tell which optos are actually lighting even with my cell phone. Should I just go ahead and replace all of them? Probably should page pinball_faz on this one. Thanks in advance!

Photo Aug 23, 9 42 53 PM (resized).jpgPhoto Aug 23, 9 48 29 PM (resized).jpg
#2 7 months ago

You should be able to visually inspect the traces and figure out if those two are supposed to be connected. My guess is that they are.

Dr. Who is such a pain to get apart to get those that I recommend replacing them all while you are in there. If it continues to fail you might want to check the wiring. They can get internal breaks and work in some positions but not others.

#3 7 months ago

Should be connected that way. But by a trace. Not a jumper wire. I think one leg of every reciever shares a trace.

#4 7 months ago
Quoted from yellowghost:

Should be connected that way. But by a trace. Not a jumper wire. I think one leg of every reciever shares a trace.

That’s correct, all transmitters and receivers on each board share a ground wire, the other traces are individual to each diode

#5 7 months ago

Try electrical tape on the ends to prevent any external light exposure, blacking out the area and cleaning the optos usually fixes a lot of problems.

#6 7 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

Try electrical tape on the ends to prevent any external light exposure, blacking out the area and cleaning the optos usually fixes a lot of problems.

Or make a new shroud from the template

#7 7 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Or make a new shroud from the template

Even with the shroud, you will still need some sort of tape to seal the edges.

#8 7 months ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Even with the shroud, you will still need some sort of tape to seal the edges.

Not sure why? The original design still works perfectly fine

#9 7 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not sure why? The original design still works perfectly fine

Mine didn't until I taped the edges, and neither did the one I am rebuilding for a friend.

#10 7 months ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Mine didn't until I taped the edges, and neither did the one I am rebuilding for a friend.

No kidding? That is unusual - neither of the DW I’ve owned required that. I wonder if the optos had been replaced with more sensitive ones?

#11 7 months ago

I have owned 2 DR Who's and I had to re-solder all the Opto's legs to fix them. All the banging they get from the balls whacking them causes them to come loose from the solder that holds them in. Also when I have had to replace opto's on any pin 99% of the time it was the transmitters that were defective.

#12 7 months ago

I usually order the new bds from great lakes modular . Saves lots of headaches

1 week later
#13 7 months ago

Holy crap...I’m about to throw this onto assembly off a cliff. Thank you all for the replies. Here’s where’s I’m at:

I replaced all of the original optos and confirmed those were working. All we’re registering except the 5th - it was really flakey. I confirmed it was due to the wire jumper because the solder pad was gone. If I held pressure on the solder joint with my finger, it was fine but as soon as I relieved pressure, it was flakey again.

My solution was to order replacement boards from Marco. I installed both yesterday and now only two optos register in edge test mode - 1 and 2. I can get them all to register if I place the boards literally touching optos to receivers but as soon as I put them in the bracket holder, only the first two register consistently. Not to mention the new receivers are taller than the old ones and are interfering with the mushroom buttons.

I’m kind of at a loss for where to go from here. I guess I’m trying to see if anyone else has had issues with the Marco boards. I should have just gone Great Lakes modular. Any other recommendations for an easy fix?

#14 7 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Holy crap...I’m about to throw this onto assembly off a cliff. Thank you all for the replies. Here’s where’s I’m at:
I replaced all of the original optos and confirmed those were working. All we’re registering except the 5th - it was really flakey. I confirmed it was due to the wire jumper because the solder pad was gone. If I held pressure on the solder joint with my finger, it was fine but as soon as I relieved pressure, it was flakey again.
My solution was to order replacement boards from Marco. I installed both yesterday and now only two optos register in edge test mode - 1 and 2. I can get them all to register if I place the boards literally touching optos to receivers but as soon as I put them in the bracket holder, only the first two register consistently. Not to mention the new receivers are taller than the old ones and are interfering with the mushroom buttons.
I’m kind of at a loss for where to go from here. I guess I’m trying to see if anyone else has had issues with the Marco boards. I should have just gone Great Lakes modular. Any other recommendations for an easy fix?

Sorry to say, but just order the ones from GLM. You will never want to disassemble the mini-PF again. It’s worth the $$

#15 7 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Holy crap...I’m about to throw this onto assembly off a cliff. Thank you all for the replies. Here’s where’s I’m at:
I replaced all of the original optos and confirmed those were working. All we’re registering except the 5th - it was really flakey. I confirmed it was due to the wire jumper because the solder pad was gone. If I held pressure on the solder joint with my finger, it was fine but as soon as I relieved pressure, it was flakey again.
My solution was to order replacement boards from Marco. I installed both yesterday and now only two optos register in edge test mode - 1 and 2. I can get them all to register if I place the boards literally touching optos to receivers but as soon as I put them in the bracket holder, only the first two register consistently. Not to mention the new receivers are taller than the old ones and are interfering with the mushroom buttons.
I’m kind of at a loss for where to go from here. I guess I’m trying to see if anyone else has had issues with the Marco boards. I should have just gone Great Lakes modular. Any other recommendations for an easy fix?

If the receivers are interfering try reversing the 2 boards. Its possible they are flip flopped.

#16 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

If the receivers are interfering try reversing the 2 boards. Its possible they are flip flopped.

I made sure it wasn’t that. The receivers on the Marco boards are definitely taller. By the way, the bottom of my opto bracket appears to be bent or tapered. Can anyone confirm this is normal?

30D4F78D-F4D5-4875-B8AD-FE09CA99CBBF (resized).jpeg312AEBD5-5AC2-4766-A672-41E07EFFDE01 (resized).jpeg
#17 7 months ago

I contacted Great Plains Electronics last week to order the opto boards but I haven’t heard back. Anyone else been in touch?

#18 7 months ago

That is not normal

#19 7 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

I made sure it wasn’t that. The receivers on the Marco boards are definitely taller. By the way, the bottom of my opto bracket appears to be bent or tapered. Can anyone confirm this is normal?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The way that bracket is bent is usually a result of someone installing washers to offset the taller optos

Just get a Dremel and grind the black optos down a bit. They will still work fine and you’ll have the clearance you need. Avoid the washers!

1 week later
#20 7 months ago
Quoted from tjprice222:

Not to mention the new receivers are taller than the old ones and are interfering with the mushroom buttons.

This device will square your bracket giving the buttons enough clearance to operate smoothly. Plus, it will eliminate light bleed. If you don't own a 3D printer, you can order a print through the site. That's what I did. Treatstock was printer I selected. Great quality and it cost me less than $10, including delivery.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162

By the way, I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I ordered replacement optos from Marco (Gulf Pinball is the manufacturer). The output from the transmitters is so weak that I only get a response when they are literally touching the receivers. I'm still trying to work out if the issue is with the board or my terrible soldering skills. Have you been able to make any progress on your setup?

optocover (resized).jpg
#21 7 months ago

The smallest amount of light getting in will cause problems for optos. I agree totally with dsuperbee and speak from experience regarding ensuring you tape the edges of the shroud.

1 month later
#22 5 months ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

This device will square your bracket giving the buttons enough clearance to operate smoothly. Plus, it will eliminate light bleed. If you don't own a 3D printer, you can order a print through the site. That's what I did. Treatstock was printer I selected. Great quality and it cost me less than $10, including delivery.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162
By the way, I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I ordered replacement optos from Marco (Gulf Pinball is the manufacturer). The output from the transmitters is so weak that I only get a response when they are literally touching the receivers. I'm still trying to work out if the issue is with the board or my terrible soldering skills. Have you been able to make any progress on your setup?

I’m happy to report that I received my original opto transmitter board back from Chris Hibler and popped it in yesterday. MPF is back in and all 5 optos are registering 100%!

However, now that the game is back together, my Enter T.Ramp Opto #33 is no longer working. It came up in Test Report and sure enough, won’t rehister in edge test. It’s definitely plugged in and I resoldered the joints on the 10 opto board under the playfield. Is the next step replacing the Tx?

2 months later
#23 3 months ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

This device will square your bracket giving the buttons enough clearance to operate smoothly. Plus, it will eliminate light bleed. If you don't own a 3D printer, you can order a print through the site. That's what I did. Treatstock was printer I selected. Great quality and it cost me less than $10, including delivery.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162
By the way, I'm in exactly the same boat as you. I ordered replacement optos from Marco (Gulf Pinball is the manufacturer). The output from the transmitters is so weak that I only get a response when they are literally touching the receivers. I'm still trying to work out if the issue is with the board or my terrible soldering skills. Have you been able to make any progress on your setup?
[quoted image]

I tried the opto kit too and found they did not work. Figured there was some compatibility issue. The real reason for the opto issues are due to the plastic holder being warped. This looks like it remedies the issue. Wondering if it was E-Z to remove the gray buttons from the old plastic to the new? Also anyone know where to find or print new gray plastic buttons?

#25 89 days ago

This device will square your bracket giving the buttons enough clearance to operate smoothly. Plus, it will eliminate light bleed. If you don't own a 3D printer, you can order a print through the site. That's what I did. Treatstock was printer I selected. Great quality and it cost me less than $10, including delivery.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387162

Had the device 3D printed by my neighbor. He just copied the file and printed it. The part slides into the original bracket--E-Z. The only issue I have is with the part installed, now the opto boards pick up more space which causes the large metal housing that sits below the opto targets to not screw in perfectly. The 4 screws are not snug, but still hold the large metal housing in place. This is the metal housing that moves up after you hit the targets. Opto issues---Fixed.

1 week later
#26 81 days ago
Quoted from unlockpinball:

Wondering if it was E-Z to remove the gray buttons from the old plastic to the new?

Just some e-clips holding them in place. You can remove them with needle-nose pliers. The biggest concern is ensuring you don't lose them. They're small and can fly pretty far!

#27 81 days ago
Quoted from beeker3000:

I ordered replacement optos from Marco (Gulf Pinball is the manufacturer). The output from the transmitters is so weak that I only get a response when they are literally touching the receivers. I'm still trying to work out if the issue is with the board or my terrible soldering skills. Have you been able to make any progress on your setup?

My optos are working now, as well. I got in contact with Gulf Pinball and he sent me a new set that work perfectly. He said he got a batch of dud LEDs. So, for anyone else having problems with their Gulf Pinball optos, PM me for his contact info.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 109.99
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 40.00
Lighting - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
£ 82.00
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 129.00
Lighting - Led
LED OCD
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
3,200
Machine - For Sale
Saint Petersburg, FL
$ 28.00
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 16.95
$ 229.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 29.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 50.00
$ 239.99
Lighting - Led
PinballBulbs
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
€ 4.99
Flipper Parts
Multigame

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside