Any voltages at all on the male pins for the controlled lamps (Inserts)

Are you getting voltage at the lamp sockets on the playfield? Is ribbon cable from MPU to Driver board off by a row?

So no voltage at the pins. Do you have voltage before the fuse?

If no, test BR1. It very possibly could have failed, and will need to be replaced.

Check the voltage on each side of the fuse. Checking the fuse for continuity only proves the fuse is good, not that the traces/connections are good.

Reseat the asic chip on the cpu. Push it down with your thumb and then power it on.

Also, you need to take a fuse out of the holder to test it.

If you recently swapped out or removed your driver board, maybe you forgot to reconnect one of 3 cables to the board. Check J133, J134, J135. I forgot to connect one of them and I didn't have any of the insert lamps working because of it.

If connected, I would swap driver boards between one of your other WPC machines to see if that works before swapping over the MPU.

Test br1. That is the rectifier for the lamp matrix.

So, do you have 18v at the test point? If you don't, it is a fuse, bridge rectifier, capacitor or bad solder joint (possibly need a jumper). If you do have 18v, it would be the ribbon cable, ribbon pins, or bad solder on the CPU chip.

I just had this same thing happen on my JM and I feel like I know that schematic by heart. Based on your posts, I am thinking you need a jumper. Did you happen to replace a cap recently? Those caps are super easy to pull out the top trace and if you did, that would explain the current behavior. You could either do a jumper or pull the new cap and fill the top with solder and reinstall.

Can you snap a picture of the front and back of the board and post them?

There are only three components. Fuse, Bridge, and cap. If work was done on the board, take it apart and do it again. The work that was done is the problem. It wasn't done right.

Do you have AC voltage coming in to the driver board for the 18V circuit? If not, check the connector and pins.

What about the thru hole plates? If they are missing on the cap...
faz

Just repaired some missing GI on a Black Knight - voltage was on the ICB coming in but not going out - turned out the thru holes were lone gone. Two stitch repairs later and all is working. You have to pull the boards and do some DMM testing to verify the chain of voltage though.

Probably a good time to start taking voltage readings. Check the AC going into the bridge and the DC going out. Then move along the path and see where you're losing it (I agree it sounds like a through-hole that got fried during some of the previous repair work or no AC to the bridge). If you don't know how, or where, to take the readings someone can help. You'll be amazed how much faster and easier it is to troubleshoot a circuit this way.

If 12V regulated is present on TP3, then F114 and BR1 are OK.
You are missing the through hole connection marked with red dot on C7, going from back to the front side of the PCB.

Also make sure BR1 and C6 have proper connections on both sides of the PCB, but C7 (+) is causing the problem.

wpc89-18Volt.jpg

zaza, I like that illustration....have you got the rest of the board?
faz

I do have the complete board but it's still in progress.
The picture used in this topic was edited and cropped. The original has no traces or colors.
In time it will be downloadable in hi-res.

Good luck with the repair, it's a lot easier now

not really strange, in this picture you can see LED6 gets its power directly from BR1 (trace at component-side).
C7 is connected to BR1 with trace at solder-side (dark red) and is continued to C6 at component-side which is directly connected to TP8.

again, I really think you are missing the through-hole connection between back and front side of the PCB at C7+wpc89-18Volt-2.jpg

zaza...this drawing looks to be F-ing fantastic!!!!!

If you tag each of the traces on the schematic and cross reference those on the drawing a hamster should be able to diagnose the board.

Thanks for the effort!
faz

I don't remember exactly how the traces are laid out, but you need continuity between C6 and TP8. I ran through the same issues on a T2 and wrote up a blog post to help me not forget this one.

http://kcpins.com/archives/345

thanks for the compliments faz, however, it is just a bitmap with no interactive options. I use it for making notes when repairing a PDB, mainly to keep up what parts have been replaced.

Demetris74, don't make the problem more difficult
Here is what you can do the easy way :
- Remove C7 + C6
- use a blank copper wire (not too thick) and insert it from component-side in through-holes C7+ and C6+ and
leave 0.5 inch of the wire on the back side.
- scratch some insulation halfway C7 and C6 from trace on component-side and solder the wire to it.
- place the capacitors.
- solder them together with the wire on back-side.

let there be light
PDB c6-c7.jpg

zaza, perhaps you don't realize the importance of what you are doing. I can read the schematic without any problem. I can follow a trace on a board without any problem. However, if you overlap the two, that's pretty powerful. Half the time I can't even find a component since the board is not laid out like the schematic. Every time I'm looking for the TP, I need to remember, "oh yea...it's tucked over here".

Think about how powerful this would be if you labeled every trace on the board with a code. F001 for the the first trace on the face of the board. Then you go to the schematic overlaying F001 on the corresponding line. This is especially important when a thru-hole-plate is required to complete a circuit or there's a trace under a component.

Yes, I agree, not interactive (although that would be way cool). I imagine there's board design software out there, that you could paint the board, apply components and it will show you the flow, voltage drop, etc....but I would venture to say very expensive and not for the faint of heart.

I think your effort will be a big help.
faz

no problem demetris74,
you have continuity from C7+ to C6+ to TP8 to Q91-Q98 but,
it has to be connected with BR1+ (see my second picture).
and C7+ C6+ are impossible to solder properly on component-side so you need this stitch.
Also i'm not sure exactly what you read on the DMM, is it a trace or low impedance from 2 uncharged capacitors.
This way you know 100% sure that you have continuity and the 2 cap's are connected to pcb.
You know my advice

faz, I do know the importance, these pictures are great help on location or at the workbench and is why i made this.
Especially on locations with poor light and printed on 15x22 inch there's no timeloss of searching in bad printed manuals.
Maybe in the future with a transparent trace overlay but it costs loads of time to create this.
First I need to finish these, digital watermark them and make it/them downloadable.

Cold solder joint
Broken wire

Just to rule out the slam switch doing something odd here.... flick the switch and see if something happens.

faz

Check for a short on the coin door lights. They are also computer controlled on this game! Or try unplugging the coin door. My BOP was showing a ground fault when I closed the door on the switch matrix. One of my coin switch wires was frayed and was shorting when the door went closed.

Well? Any progress?