Hi all, Moving post from Dr Who owner's thread to separate thread for tracking and future reference. Original text:
Issue: Everything works as it should until it gets to the final stage for multi-ball. As soon as the multi-ball is activated the miniplayfield just rises up and down continuously. Once you are back to only one ball in play the MP resets to it's resting position.
Hubby researched somewhere and thought a new Opto Board would fix it, so he bought this awhile back:
Before I go in there ripping it all out again late next week, I was hoping someone has seen this before and can advise if it is an opto board issue, or maybe something else is causing it?
Quoted from pinball_faz:
Doubt the opto board is causing that. There's an opto at the base of the MPF that gets broken by the cam rotating.
Put the game in test and run the MPF up/down. The bottom of the test screen has a icon "beam" that represents the breaking of the beam.
If it just started happening, I bet it's a loose connector/broken wire. If that looks good, run the whole game through test. Check all switches by using a ball rather than your finger.
Ok, I ran the MP tests and there were no errors, but the far left opto was showing blocked out on the board in the graphic on screen. Did the switch test with the ball and there was sound emitted with each opto except for the 1st opto on left. During the MP tests, no errors came back, but when you boot the machine on, the 'Check switch 75' came on, which is the far left opto.
Took the MP out (I am cleaning and adjusting MP back to fit cliffy's as well as figuring out this issue) and took a pic of the solder and wires which I've attached. However, after plugging back into the machine and running test, I couldn't capture the infrared on my phone... I know you mentioned it worked on an iphone, not sure if it also works with an android to view infrared? A quick google shows it should, so I'm not sure why they would not be lighting up when plugged in as they worked before I took them out.
Any ideas on what else I can do to try the infrared test? Should I try to reflow the solder on the opto cards, or just go ahead and replace them with the new GLM boards since I already have them to see if that takes care of the issues with switch 75?
Thanks for everyone's help, Merry Christmas!