(Topic ID: 232434)

Dr Who Multiball MP going up & down, Opto Switch 75 not working


By neemypeemy

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by neemypeemy
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#1 1 year ago

Hi all, Moving post from Dr Who owner's thread to separate thread for tracking and future reference. Original text:

Issue: Everything works as it should until it gets to the final stage for multi-ball. As soon as the multi-ball is activated the miniplayfield just rises up and down continuously. Once you are back to only one ball in play the MP resets to it's resting position.

Hubby researched somewhere and thought a new Opto Board would fix it, so he bought this awhile back:
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/dw_tbs.html

Before I go in there ripping it all out again late next week, I was hoping someone has seen this before and can advise if it is an opto board issue, or maybe something else is causing it?

From pinball_faz:

Quoted from pinball_faz:

Doubt the opto board is causing that. There's an opto at the base of the MPF that gets broken by the cam rotating.
Put the game in test and run the MPF up/down. The bottom of the test screen has a icon "beam" that represents the breaking of the beam.
If it just started happening, I bet it's a loose connector/broken wire. If that looks good, run the whole game through test. Check all switches by using a ball rather than your finger.
faz

Test Results:
Ok, I ran the MP tests and there were no errors, but the far left opto was showing blocked out on the board in the graphic on screen. Did the switch test with the ball and there was sound emitted with each opto except for the 1st opto on left. During the MP tests, no errors came back, but when you boot the machine on, the 'Check switch 75' came on, which is the far left opto.

Took the MP out (I am cleaning and adjusting MP back to fit cliffy's as well as figuring out this issue) and took a pic of the solder and wires which I've attached. However, after plugging back into the machine and running test, I couldn't capture the infrared on my phone... I know you mentioned it worked on an iphone, not sure if it also works with an android to view infrared? A quick google shows it should, so I'm not sure why they would not be lighting up when plugged in as they worked before I took them out.

Any ideas on what else I can do to try the infrared test? Should I try to reflow the solder on the opto cards, or just go ahead and replace them with the new GLM boards since I already have them to see if that takes care of the issues with switch 75?

Thanks for everyone's help, Merry Christmas!

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#2 1 year ago

Check your connectors on the mpu right underneath the batteries.

Make sure they are seated properly and no corrosion or acid damage.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from McPin54:

Check your connectors on the mpu right underneath the batteries.
Make sure they are seated properly and no corrosion or acid damage.

Will do, thanks mcpin54 !

#4 1 year ago

The optos are always on. If they are not emitting, that's a big problem, but when you do a switch test that would be a failure.

While in Test 14 and the MPF is at the top of the stroke, let go of the flipper buttons. It should stop... if it still moves DO NOT touch any of the mushroom switches. If it stops, push each of the mushroom buttons. Given what you are saying, I would have expected none of the five buttons to work. If one of them was "stuck" on that would mean the receiver is jazzed too.

That opto board (under the mushrooms) looks pretty hacked up. At least two repairs: look at the color of the emitters... two yellow (original), two white an d one purple. Also, a trace looks like it was rebuilt at some point.

What about all the other optos/switches in the game. The reason for a full test is to see if there's a switch matrix issue or possibly an opto board problem or even a power driver board. The more things we know are correct, the more components we can avoid testing out.

That said, since the opto board is out, let's see if you have power going to the emitters. Can you use your DMM? Set to low voltage DC. Put the negative probe on the common WIRE on the pad of the opto board. Put the other probe to any of the other five WIRE contacts. if you touch the wire and get voltage, that's awesome. Now shift to the common PAD of the opto board. If you don't get voltage, then you have a cold solder joint in that connection. Repeat all joints.

if the test fails at the wire, back up to the connector. Check the voltage at the game-side connector.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doctor-who-mpf-optos-issue#post-685995

If there's no voltage at the connector, we really need the other switch tests to know if you have an opto problem, matrix issue or a power issure.

faz

#5 1 year ago

BTW... I'm off this week. I can call you if you want to talk through some of this.
faz

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

BTW... I'm off this week. I can call you if you want to talk through some of this.
faz

Thank you Faz, I may take you up on that at some point! I work from home and only had yesterday off, so will be working on and off with this as I can.

I have the MPF completely out right now, as besides the opto issue I'm going to clean (need to research that part later) and then slotting the holes to be able to push back a bit to fit the cliffy's on (which kindly everyone helped me with on the Dr Who owners thread).

I did complete all tests (in addition to 14) before I took the MPF it out, and all switches and tests were error free except for the far left Opto 75.
-Right when turning on machine, get a check switch 75 warning.
-While running test 14, did not show an error, but did show that far left opto block filled out on display.
-During switch test, did not make a sound when hitting it with ball, when all of the other 4 did make a sound.

I just completed the DMM tests you have listed above with all wires, pads and the connector (both opto and led board). All passed except for E3 and E5, which came back with zero reading for all three tests (wire, pad, and connector).

I'm going to try to hook up the opto board again to the power on the pinball to see if I can capture the lights, I'm guessing maybe I didn't have the plug pushed in all the way or something.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from McPin54:

Check your connectors on the mpu right underneath the batteries.
Make sure they are seated properly and no corrosion or acid damage.

Well wouldn't you know, to add to the fun, yes, the middle battery had blown as well...

How can I tell if I will be able to clean off the battery leakage or if I will have to get a whole new board?

I'm guessing I would want to replace with a button battery set up as shown here to get rid of the AA's? http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/how-to-get-rid-of-those-aa-batteries-no-more-ruined-circuit-boards/

battery (resized).jpg
#8 1 year ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

Well wouldn't you know, to add to the fun, yes, the middle battery had blown as well...

Not awesome... that can definitely cause issues. Actually, I might start a new thread about just getting it fixed. You may need to send it in for board repair.

Step one is getting the bad batteries out and get that stuff neutralized; it's still cooking your board. Any other issues are secondary.

Read up: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid#post-3386971

Quoted from neemypeemy:

-Right when turning on machine, get a check switch 75 warning.

To reset this error, you can go into Test 14.. then hit the "credit" button to clear the error.

faz

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

Not awesome... that can definitely cause issues. Actually, I might start a new thread about just getting it fixed. You may need to send it in for board repair.
Step one is getting the bad batteries out and get that stuff neutralized; it's still cooking your board. Any other issues are secondary.
Read up: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid#post-3386971

To reset this error, you can go into Test 14.. then hit the "credit" button to clear the error.
faz

thanks @pinball_faz just went to the store to buy some sno bol... carefully reading the thread instructions as well as a few others. Will post a new thread after cleaned to get some feedback on the results and next steps.

After I get the battery leakage issue fixed then I'll come back to this thread so we can continue the opto discussions.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

thanks @pinball_faz just went to the store to buy some sno bol... carefully reading the thread instructions as well as a few others. Will post a new thread after cleaned to get some feedback on the results and next steps.
After I get the battery leakage issue fixed then I'll come back to this thread so we can continue the opto discussions.

New thread for battery leakage: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-on-assessing-battery-leakage-board-damage-bally-wpc#post-4754474

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

Well wouldn't you know, to add to the fun, yes, the middle battery had blown as well...
How can I tell if I will be able to clean off the battery leakage or if I will have to get a whole new board?
I'm guessing I would want to replace with a button battery set up as shown here to get rid of the AA's? http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/how-to-get-rid-of-those-aa-batteries-no-more-ruined-circuit-boards/[quoted image]

Yep. There is your problem.

I bet your connectors and pins are corroded. Seding bad opto signals.

Funny thing is they can test good in switch test and go bananas in game mode.

If you were closer I'd do your board for you

#12 1 year ago

I had a opto issue with my time expandor. Tried everything. In the end it was corrosion from a leaking battery. Neutralize it and clean it but you need to eventually remove the components to cleAn underneath.

1 week later
#13 1 year ago

Hi all, Happy New Year!!!

So...ended up getting a new board with NVRAM, so won't have to worry about battery leakage again. If you know anyone who wants to buy my original board to repair send me a PM.

So now I have time to get back to the Opto issue. I did get all opto lights to show on my phone powered up. I realize that the bad board may be causing some of the problems I had outlined earlier, but what I'm concerned about are my test results I've quoted below, as E3 and E5 did not pass the tests, which wouldn't be related to the board.

How can I determine if the problem with E3 and E5 is with the Opto board itself or the wiring? I have a new opto board set and was just going to go ahead and swap out while I'm at it, but not sure how to check if these fails are from the wiring and not the board.

Quoted from neemypeemy:

I did complete all tests (in addition to 14) before I took the MPF it out, and all switches and tests were error free except for the far left Opto 75.
-Right when turning on machine, get a check switch 75 warning.
-While running test 14, did not show an error, but did show that far left opto block filled out on display.
-During switch test, did not make a sound when hitting it with ball, when all of the other 4 did make a sound.

I just completed the DMM tests you have listed above with all wires, pads and the connector (both opto and led board). All passed except for E3 and E5, which came back with zero reading for all three tests (wire, pad, and connector).

#14 1 year ago

If you have multiple opto problems and you replaced the opto board with a new one and the problems go away then one or more of the 339 chips were bad. I had to replace a couple of them on mine. When replacing these it’s best to install a socket first.

1 week later
#15 1 year ago

Hi all, so finally got a chance to put on the new (from 2014) GLM opto boards. Not great news. Opto side (A1-A5) everything is great, but the receiver side when doing DMM tests getting nada (pad, wire, and connector). On the old boards, Opto side was also good, but on receiver side wasn't getting anything from only E3 and E5.

I've re-flowed the solder, no cold joints. I've triple checked the wiring and that's correct. (C-gray, E5-green, E4-yellow, E3-black stripe, E2-red, E1- black spots).

Are there any other tests I can do to see if there is something wrong with the board or check for broken wires? I went to contact GLM and it looks as though they may have gone out of business from what I've read on this forum and their website is down...

#16 1 year ago

How did you test the receivers? Are you testing the resistance using a pen light?

Assuming the component, if it's wired good is good it could be a bad a break in the circuit. Broken wire or bad connector.

First check continuity from the 12-pin connector pin to each component leg (not the pad, not the solder). You said, no cold solder joints ... is this what you did? If confirms a broken wire too.

IF that all checks out give the connector a good push together to make sure it's really solid. Run a switch test again.

If it still does not work, check the connector pins
With the game off and the connector in place check the connection by checking continuity from the game side connector (back end of the connector) to the opto board. If that all passes, check continuity back to it's source. Pretty sure it's the 10-Opto board.

My memory is bad. You did say the game passed a full switch test ... yes?
faz

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

How did you test the receivers? Are you testing the resistance using a pen light?
Assuming the component, if it's wired good is good it could be a bad a break in the circuit. Broken wire or bad connector.
First check continuity from the 12-pin connector pin to each component leg (not the pad, not the solder). You said, no cold solder joints ... is this what you did? If confirms a broken wire too.
IF that all checks out give the connector a good push together to make sure it's really solid. Run a switch test again.
If it still does not work, check the connector pins
With the game off and the connector in place check the connection by checking continuity from the game side connector (back end of the connector) to the opto board. If that all passes, check continuity back to it's source. Pretty sure it's the 10-Opto board.
My memory is bad. You did say the game passed a full switch test ... yes?
faz

Hi Faz,

I tested using the DMM voltage tests at the pad, wire, and connector. All good for the opto side, nothing for the receiver side. I don't have a pen light, but can get one if that's what's needed next.

I would want to make sure that I can get a reading on a DMM for the receiver prior to putting it back into the game to test, wouldn't I?

Before I took the MPF out, with the old opto boards in, I ran the MP tests and there were no errors, but the far left opto was showing blocked out on the board in the graphic on screen. I did the switch test with the ball and there was sound emitted with each opto except for the 1st opto on left. During the MP tests, no errors came back, but when you boot the machine on, the 'Check switch 75' came on, which is the far left opto. When I took the board out and did the DMM tests, on the old opto board on the receiver side, E3 and E5 were dead. On the new board everything is dead on the receiver side.

If you're saying that it's possible the receiver is working even thought it's not registering on the DMM, I will put it back together and do the MP and switch tests again. I just didn't want to go through all of that if the DMM test results meant that something was definitely wrong with either the opto receiver board, wiring, or connector outside of the machine.

Thanks!

#18 1 year ago

If I am reading this correctly, you were looking for power on the receiving side? There will be none... kinda.

I'm not really good on the whole electronics thing, but this is my understanding of what happens.

The optos emitters are IR LEDs that are always on (you validated them with the camera test right).

The receivers are catching light (or NOT if the IR light is blocked). So, they are a switch... depending upon the light on the receiver the resistance across the component changes. These react to IR light (cleanly) but also to regular light from a pen light or other strong light source.

Test on your old board .. you'll see.

Set your DMM to ohms; Put a probe on each side of the component; Shroud the receivers (really dark); Record the resistance (should be the same for each of the 5 receivers).

Now shine the light into each receiver... same drill, check the resistance. Again, check the resistance... should be the same (+/-).

This should be able to validate a bad component and/or cold solder joint.

faz

#19 1 year ago

Thanks Faz, really enjoying learning all this stuff!

Ok, so I did the light tests and got ohm readings on every component except for Q4. Reversed the red and black probes, and then got a reading from it as well.

Does it matter that Q4 had the positive/negative reversed from the other components? If not, then it sounds like I should be good to put the MPF back together to do the MP and switch tests?

Appreciate your help!

#20 1 year ago

It's unclear about a receiver having polarity. LED for sure.

DON'T put it all together.... just the optos. Sounds like you've not done this.

Put the connector for the optos together (plastic h housing, opto boards loosely into place).
Plug the connector into the game and turn the game on. I don't think you can lower the playfield to pass the connector up in the MPF hole, so you may need to team up with your husband. Put the game into test and observe the switch test. Regardless of having the mushroom buttons in place, all 5 should be the same. Then, start blocking the receivers one by one and observe the change. The room does not need to be dark but you don't want bright lights interfering with the test (or cover the receiver really good). One of you blocks the receiver and the other views the test outputs.

Also, since you messed with the solder points, repeat the camera test just to make sure you have the LED emitters working again (You should be able to see them from the side).

faz

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

It's unclear about a receiver having polarity. LED for sure.
DON'T put it all together.... just the optos. Sounds like you've not done this.
Put the connector for the optos together (plastic h housing, opto boards loosely into place).
Plug the connector into the game and turn the game on. I don't think you can lower the playfield to pass the connector up in the MPF hole, so you may need to team up with your husband. Put the game into test and observe the switch test. Regardless of having the mushroom buttons in place, all 5 should be the same. Then, start blocking the receivers one by one and observe the change. The room does not need to be dark but you don't want bright lights interfering with the test (or cover the receiver really good). One of you blocks the receiver and the other views the test outputs.
Also, since you messed with the solder points, repeat the camera test just to make sure you have the LED emitters working again (You should be able to see them from the side).
faz

Thanks! Will do and report back.

#22 1 year ago

Ok, here's the results...

1. All optos show lighted on phone
2. When going into test I get the message to check switches 76 & 77 for the mini opto ejects and that's it
3. For the 71-75 switch tests, all switches show closed with light on, and then open when light off/optos pushed

So it looks like everything is working, except I think I read where the switches are to show always open, and then closed when the optos are pushed/light broken?

#23 1 year ago

Whoo-Friggin Who (Dr Who that is)!

Awesome!

Now carefully assemble the tower of jello that is the DW Mini-Playfield and you should be good to go.

IIRC that's the last issue? Right?

faz

#24 1 year ago

Yep Got mpf straightened and cleaned, new opto boards in, the new wpc89 board in with nvram, epoxied the divets right in front of the mpf and put on cliffy there, as well on mpf and ramp.

Got the mpf bracket holes elongated for clearance of cliffys when putting mpf back in.

Currently out and about, but very excited to get home and put in mpf for final testing!!!

#25 1 year ago

Ok, well good news and bad news.

The good news is that it goes up and down beautifully and it doesn't bind, even with both cliffys on (the board and the mpf).

Bad news, getting error that CCW Direction is Reversed. Does that mean the wiring to the motor is swapped? Someone put a big red dot on the plastic on one side of the terminals, so that is where I put the red wire (should have not assumed and checked... ).

When I did the MPF tests, it went up and down as it should, but the MIDR, MIDL, Up and Down all had error at the bottom after it went up or down. I don't really understand the test animations to compare anything to them.

Went ahead and had hubby play to test and right when you turn on the game you hear the mpf check for balls (or mpf ball eject/kicker sound?) and then it goes into ball lock and up to the first level before you even touch the flippers. It keeps making the ball check/eject sound on and off as you are playing.

Then the other thing is it seems like it's super sensitive, like once up at second level when trying to get in a door, if you hit one of the bumpers outside of the door, it acts like a ball actually went in, when it didn't.

Do I need to get it out and swap the motor wires and then try all the testing again?

Getting closer....

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

Ok, well good news and bad news.
The good news is that it goes up and down beautifully and it doesn't bind, even with both cliffys on (the board and the mpf).
Bad news, getting error that CCW Direction is Reversed. Does that mean the wiring to the motor is swapped? Someone put a big red dot on the plastic on one side of the terminals, so that is where I put the red wire (should have not assumed and checked... ).
When I did the MPF tests, it went up and down as it should, but the MIDR, MIDL, Up and Down all had error at the bottom after it went up or down. I don't really understand the test animations to compare anything to them.
Went ahead and had hubby play to test and right when you turn on the game you hear the mpf check for balls (or mpf ball eject/kicker sound?) and then it goes into ball lock and up to the first level before you even touch the flippers. It keeps making the ball check/eject sound on and off as you are playing.
Then the other thing is it seems like it's super sensitive, like once up at second level when trying to get in a door, if you hit one of the bumpers outside of the door, it acts like a ball actually went in, when it didn't.
Do I need to get it out and swap the motor wires and then try all the testing again?
Getting closer....

I've found on multiple motors where the color doesn't match. I'd switch the wires

#27 1 year ago

It should tell you it's reversed in test
Also, I know there was acid damage on CPU, you put new one in but did you replace connectors?

Sometimes the acid effects the contacts on the connector

#28 1 year ago

I had the same problem. Reversed the wires and never saw the problem again.

#29 1 year ago

Thanks @mcpin54 and @catch86 !

As earlier, good news and bad news.

Good news, switched the wires to the motor and no longer have any errors during MPF test.

Bad news, it's still doing what I have outlined below: When you turn it on to play, the MPF kickers make noise and then it goes to level 2 as if it thinks 2 balls are already locked before you do anything. It then keeps randomly making the kicker noises as you play. Then if you hit the MPF frame it thinks a ball when in when it didn't.

Any idea of what could be making it think there are balls in the MPF when their aren't any?

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from neemypeemy:

Any idea of what could be making it think there are balls in the MPF when their aren't any?

Glad the motor is going.

When you ran the test, are you sure the other optos tested ok?

There's an opto in each lock hole and at the base of the MPF. You did not say that the MPF would not stop running, so I am betting the one at the bottom is working but it does control a lot of game play.

Williams games have "compensation" logic. I've never really seen this in action but it's supposed to skip over bad switches to keep a game earning in the event of fault until the operator can get there. When you turn on the game, if you get a few "bong" sounds and a message about pressing Enter for error report (something like that). There may be faults registered that either need to be addressed OR its possible that you fixed the errors and the machine needs to be reset so it does not keep compensating.

Go to the error report (press Enter). Scroll through them all and write them down.

There's different places to reset various errors, but the ones we care about are in the MPF, so go to Test 14 (T.14 Page 1-20). While in test mode press the "credit button" and it resets all prior errors (MPF related only). See if the condition exists.

I'm not 100% sure of what you are describing; if you could get a small video of the behavior that would help.
faz

#31 1 year ago

Good morning everyone

Ok, so this morning when I ran the tests, it did give me the Check switch 76 & 77 opto ejects message, which it didn't last night. When in test both R & L opto ejects show (A) Open.

For some reason I couldn't get the MPF faults to clear when pressing the credit button while in T14, it just kept acting as the escape funtion and took me out of the T14.

Here's a quick vid snippet of what happens right when you press the play button, not touching the flippers:

#32 1 year ago

Got it! Video really helps... it's exactly what you said, but I could not imagine that actually happening.

Given the ball eject is going nuts in a continuous cycle, it looks to me like the optos on the ejects are not working... meaning the game THINKS a ball is in the slot.... beam is broken or beam is not being sent out.

Praying it's not opto problems in the ejects; double check the connectors for those optos. Pretty sure they are all uniquely keyed. Give them each a good push.

You did not have any issues with those opto pairs did you?
faz

#33 1 year ago

Hey Faz, sorry, I'm not sure where the optos are on the ejects? I remember the optos above the cam circle, and of course the 5 mushrooms, but not anywhere else.

#34 1 year ago

They are in lock holes themselves. There is not a mechanical switch in there.

When in test you can see the two lock holes light up. On the graphic of the little house (looks like one to me... with arched door-ways) there's two squares that change color when the beam is broken.

Pull two of the balls out of the game.

Do this with the MPF level to the playfield and remove your hands from the flipper buttons... you don't want to do this on a moving MPF... and I'd never stick my finger into a ball eject.

Note the two squares on top of the house... they should both be dark with a light square outline.
Drop a ball in each hole. Each should light as you put the ball in.

After you get your fingers away from the MPF and press the flipper buttons, the balls will eject during the tests back to the trough.
faz

#35 1 year ago

Gotcha, will give it a go tomorrow, thanks!

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_faz:

They are in lock holes themselves. There is not a mechanical switch in there.
When in test you can see the two lock holes light up. On the graphic of the little house (looks like one to me... with arched door-ways) there's two squares that change color when the beam is broken.
Pull two of the balls out of the game.
Do this with the MPF level to the playfield and remove your hands from the flipper buttons... you don't want to do this on a moving MPF... and I'd never stick my finger into a ball eject.
Note the two squares on top of the house... they should both be dark with a light square outline.
Drop a ball in each hole. Each should light as you put the ball in.
After you get your fingers away from the MPF and press the flipper buttons, the balls will eject during the tests back to the trough.
faz

Hey Faz,

Ok, put it in test, and the two squares on top of the house are already lit as soon as you put in test, IE it thinks the balls are already in there locked. Put two balls in and they stayed locked/lit, then they did eject during the 14 kicker test. Pic attached.

FYI hubby has renamed mpf to mfp....

house (resized).jpg
#37 1 year ago

Awesome! Well, not really... but at least the assumption is holding. The signal of the ball in the socket is false.

Did you check all the connectors? All tight?

I hate to say it. If the connectors are all super tight and the test still fails (squares lit before a ball is in place), you will need to pull the MPF again. The optos are buried underneath the MPF holes.

IIRC you need to pull the MPF, Pull the brackets (leave the motor/gear assemblies in place). Then you should be able to see the optos. I did not pull these optos out when I made my document. But I got close. Here's a few full sized photos. One is in my document, the other is a photo that did not make it in. I blew it up to show you where to look in the full sized picture. You can just make out the emitter/receivers.

The first photo is the closeup. The second one is the full sized version that you can download and zoom in on... if fidelity is lost I can PM to you.
The last photo is a side vew where you can see the back of the receiver facing the camera (the little green board int he upper right corner) and the opto emitter in the background (yellow/orange-ish from age).

faz

LockOptos (resized).jpg
049 Optos added.jpg
018 MPF out side - Copy.jpg

#38 1 year ago

Thanks Faz, I figured taking it back out was going to be next. So what am I looking for/ doing after I pull out the mpf and locate the optos as shown in the pics? Just double checking that the wiring connections are good?

#39 1 year ago

Simplest issue is a bad connector. Replacing the pins on the connector is pretty quick and no need to pull the MPF. If pushing the connector in makes it work, you should replace the pins as it will start failing in the future.

Repeat all the same good tests you did before... easy peasy for you.

Check continuity from the connector to all four components. The camera test to see the emitters are working and finally the receiver to check the resistance of both receivers. Looking for a broken wire or cold solder joint.

faz

#40 1 year ago

Gotcha, thanks!

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3,250 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Westerly, RI
$ 40.00
Lighting - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 369.95
Boards
PinSound

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