OK, let's back up here.

That is just a normal microswitch and actuator just under the glass channel.

Take the glass out.

Throw the game into switch edge test and what happens when you close and open the switch with your finger?

Does it stay closed in test when you hold it closed?

Are all of the wires still soldered on?

RM

The much more likely issue is that there is something wrong with the switch.

Do all of the other switches register in switch test?

Are all of the wires still soldered to the correct lugs on the nonworking switch?

Have you tried just replacing that microswitch with a new one?

R<

Since the switch is dumb, can't you just short it and be done with it? On my game, the switch is zip tied closed.

Listen closely as you put the game in test. If you hear the motor moving, could be a broken gearbox. If you don't hear the motor, think electrical.

The playfield moves up and down via a 20 V DC motor. The motor receives power from a bi-directional driver board that flips the polarity to drive the motor CW/CCW.

Could be a simple connector issue, break in the wire or more serious.

Start at the motor and work backwards to the Bi-Directional board looking for a wire break. If this tests out good hook a DMM to the motor contacts and put the game in test....see if 20V is making it's way to the motor (motor could be shot).

Checking the gearbox requires pulling the MPF. Let us know what happens with these tests first.

faz

If I remember correct coin door has to be closed as the mini playfield to move ,,, so trigger the coin door switches near door frame corner even in test mode

This is a very difficult fix to make 'stick'. Some have tried JB weld with great success..others not so much. If you have access to actual welding equipment you can tack yourself.

Check out this thread.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pickup-dr-who-repair-thread/page/2#post-977817

A replacement gear box is usually the fix. Unfortunately, it's paired with the motor...$80.

faz

You can try, but keep in mind....that gear takes a lot of torque.
faz

yeh, I'll tell you first hand that epoxy and JB weld (despite the very large torque numbers present on the tube) both won't hold up. The only solution is to tack weld the gear to the collar.... or buy a whole motor/gearbox assembly for about $85 shipped at MAD Amusements.

Agreed. My DW had JB weld on there from a previous owner. No go. Had it welded at a local shop for 2 bucks.

There was also the fix that someone did to add a set screw to the collar. Tapped the collar flange and was able to save the gearbox. Given what I saw in your video, I don't think this works for you. It looks like the collar (on the bottom) is separated from the big gear.

I thought I would mention it just in case I saw incorrectly.
faz