Dr Who mini PF front edge repair, what to do here?

New flap with Cliffy.... it won't matter.....right?

This cliffy: http://passionforpinball.com/Drwho/DrWhoTX1.jpg

faz

#3 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member

Here is my typical steps for repair (before using a Cliffy)

Sand areas where I will be using wood putty to help with adhesion. Then use a rag and naphtha to clean up the area and remove the dust and possible wax. Then I use water thin super glue if the wood is REALLY beat or separating. After the glue has had time to dry, I lightly sand, then repeat the naphtha and rag. Then wood putty fitted to shape. After it has dried, sand smooth, and then touch up and spot clear. (Although I have done repairs for friends who didn't want the touch up done.)

Even with a Cliffy, the hyper thins WILL get bent to the shape of damage if it is not repaired. Cliffy mentions this on his site.

#4 9 years ago

FAZ

pinball_faz

Pinside member

Quoted from dsuperbee:
Even with a Cliffy, the hyper thins WILL get bent to the shape of damage if it is not repaired. Cliffy mentions this on his site.

I would not have anticipated that. Good tip!
faz

#5 9 years ago

???

Atomicboy

Inactive member

12y 81,150 7,318

Quoted from dsuperbee:
Here is my typical steps for repair (before using a Cliffy)
Sand areas where I will be using wood putty to help with adhesion. Then use a rag and naphtha to clean up the area and remove the dust and possible wax. Then I use water thin super glue if the wood is REALLY beat or separating. After the glue has had time to dry, I lightly sand, then repeat the naphtha and rag. Then wood putty fitted to shape. After it has dried, sand smooth, and then touch up and spot clear. (Although I have done repairs for friends who didn't want the touch up done.)
Even with a Cliffy, the hyper thins WILL get bent to the shape of damage if it is not repaired. Cliffy mentions this on his site.

Have you done it with this mini though? The wood filler I find it's strong, and for impacts it gives way eventually, much sooner than wood would wear. I worry using this that it will break up and be a crumbly mess under the flap. For this PF the ball whacks the edges and these issues dead on, and with the cliffys, there will still be a lot of hard hits right to the side of this repair, which with wood filler, I see not having the legs down the road.

That's why I wondered what else people have used.

Quoted from pinball_faz:
New flap with Cliffy.... it won't matter.....right?
This cliffy: http://passionforpinball.com/Drwho/DrWhoTX1.jpg
faz

That's the one for the main PF. There is a top flap, more of a hide something cliffy and a side one, the one that takes the impact. Both together add more protection.

#6 9 years ago

FAZ

pinball_faz

Pinside member

http://www.parts4pinballs.com/36-20006-1/

Wow! Sorry, yes. That's the main PF protector.

There is this one:
http://passionforpinball.com/Drwho/Russ-topflap2.jpg

faz

#7 9 years ago

DAZ

rgb635

EZ Lift Pinball

Atlanta, GA

11y 42,650 585 4 8

Start fresh!

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-13769A-20006

#8 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from Atomicboy:
Have you done it with this mini though? The wood filler I find it's strong, and for impacts it gives way eventually, much sooner than wood would wear. I worry using this that it will break up and be a crumbly mess under the flap. For this PF the ball whacks the edges and these issues dead on, and with the cliffys, there will still be a lot of hard hits right to the side of this repair, which with wood filler, I see not having the legs down the road.
That's why I wondered what else people have used.

That's the one for the main PF. There is a top flap, more of a hide something cliffy and a side one, the one that takes the impact. Both together add more protection.

I have not, I bought a repro as mine was pretty well thrashed. But I have repaired scoops in a buddy's AFM and MB that get the snot played out of them every year at PAGG as well as whomever borrows the games between shows, and as far as I know they havent' worn much since the repairs. (That were done several years ago, with the MB being about 8.)

#9 9 years ago

FAZ

pinball_faz

Pinside member

If you do go with a repro MPF, be advised there have been reports of the holes not lining up with some old units. You may need to modify the brackets to fit the new MPF or <bite nails> trim 1/8" off the front edge of the new MPF (while avoiding cracking the clear).

faz

#10 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member

Quoted from pinball_faz:
If you do go with a repro MPF, be advised there have been reports of the holes not lining up with some old units. You may need to modify the brackets to fit the new MPF or <bite nails> trim 1/8" off the front edge of the new MPF (while avoiding cracking the clear).
faz

Just like with repro Pfs, make a good map of the holes, measure twice drill once. I did not cut any edges, just enlongated holes instead.

#11 9 years ago

RUS

RussMyers

Pinside member

Linwood, NJ

12y 76,550 2,882 7

Quoted from pinball_faz:
Wow! Sorry, yes. That's the main PF protector.
There is this one:
http://passionforpinball.com/Drwho/Russ-topflap2.jpg
faz

That's my DW.

WHOOO!

RussMyers

#12 9 years ago

FAZ

pinball_faz

Pinside member

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dw-mpf-hey-cpr-my-doctor-is-not-a-dud-oddball#post-1284664

The challenge is that the MPF comes pre-drilled with the T-Nuts installed.

Nothing to map. Here's an example from Fairground.

faz

#13 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member

Quoted from pinball_faz:
The challenge is that the MPF comes pre-drilled with the T-Nuts installed.
Nothing to map. Here's an example from Fairground.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dw-mpf-hey-cpr-my-doctor-is-not-a-dud-oddball#post-1284664
faz

You still need a map for the ball guides and such on the top. I did have T-nuts, but not dimples.

For the OP: The more I look at the front of your current PF, I would not use filler at all. Some water-thin super glue and clamps would be fine.

#14 9 years ago

TSR

TaylorVA

Reese Rails

13y 116K 8,893 11 7

Making a map is not difficult. As others have noted the CPR is notnandorrct swap. I had to cut slots in the mounting bracket to get it to sit in the main playfield correctly.

#15 9 years ago

INK

Inkochnito

Pinside member

Piershil

12y 91,650 3,167 12

When I got mine, some nitwit took some wood off the mini playfield to fitt a L-metal from the top.
I took it out and used the Cliffy protector from underneath as a mold to fill the gap with 2 component epoxy (used for polyester boat repairs).
Let it flow and fill all the gaps.
It still holds up very nice.
Though the Cliffy keeps on denting, but that is normal I think.
You might need to change the Cliffy after a few years.

Peter

DrWho_MPF.jpg

#16 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member

Quoted from TaylorVA:
Making a map is not difficult. As others have noted the CPR is notnandorrct swap. I had to cut slots in the mounting bracket to get it to sit in the main playfield correctly.

As did I, about 1/8", if that. Not terrible.

Quoted from Inkochnito:
It still holds up very nice.
Though the Cliffy keeps on denting, but that is normal I think.
You might need to change the Cliffy after a few years.
Peter

It is, and I believe Cliffy has mentioned this before.

#17 9 years ago

???

RoyF

Pinside member

Highland Heights, OH

12y 40,900 664

Quoted from TaylorVA:
I had to cut slots in the mounting bracket to get it to sit in the main playfield correctly.

What did you use to cut the slots in the mounting bracket?

#18 9 years ago

???

Atomicboy

Inactive member

12y 81,150 7,318

I'm not buying a repro. This can be repaired and hidden. I stay away from repro'd pf's unless I absolutely have to use one for a blown out/too far gone piece. The epoxy sounds like maybe the best idea actually. I made a ramp repair with some clear stuff on an old machine one, and man did that hold up. I got the feeling that I could bash the entire ramp with a hammer and all that would be left was the part that was epoxied.

I think I'll go that route. I may also shave off a 1/32 of the front edge as well to allow for the cliffy's, given some of the lower edge of these pf's are usually worn as well, so this will even that up.

#19 9 years ago

MPG

Catch86

Pinside member

10y 57,900 398 6

OP
Quoted from Atomicboy:
I may also shave off a 1/32 of the front edge as well to allow for the cliffy's, given some of the lower edge of these pf's are usually worn as well, so this will even that up.

Don't have to do this. Just make the mounting bracket holes on the Time Expander elongated so you have room to slide the whole assembly back and forth. Put Cliffy's on both edges and then shift the Time Expander back a little to give yourself clearance.

#20 9 years ago

???

Atomicboy

Inactive member

12y 81,150 7,318

Quoted from Catch86:
Don't have to do this. Just make the mounting bracket holes on the Time Expander elongated so you have room to slide the whole assembly back and forth. Put Cliffy's on both edges and then shift the Time Expander back a little to give yourself clearance.

I know, the edge is worn a bit too, and somewhat tapers in near the bottom, so this will allow for some extra space for the cliffy, and allow the cliffy to sit at more of a 90 degree angle, and I won't have to elongate the holes. Solves a few issues at once. Also will give a smoother, cleaner edge, and remove the beat on there now.

#21 9 years ago

TSR

TaylorVA

Reese Rails

13y 116K 8,893 11 7

Quoted from RoyF:
What did you use to cut the slots in the mounting bracket?

A Dremel and a side cutting bit. Wear safety glasses.

#22 9 years ago

???

RoyF

Pinside member

Highland Heights, OH

12y 40,900 664

I'm looking at many Dremel cutting bits on http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/drmindexacc.html#cutting. Can you help me find one that will do the job given the material the TE bracket is made from? Most items I see talk about suitability for wood, plastic and soft metals.

#23 9 years ago

BAK

dsuperbee

Pinside member