(Topic ID: 230943)

Dr Dude - right flipper activates when pf magnet is energized

By antics

5 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by GRUMPY
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#1 5 years ago

Got a Dr Dude recently and noticed that whenever the playfield magnet is energized the right flipper activates until the magnet de-energizes. Any thoughts where I might start looking? I was thinking maybe a bad solenoid diode? Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

Someone has changed some wiring under the play field and not in a good way.
Take some good pics under the magnet and the flipper.

#3 5 years ago

Okay here are some photos of the magnet and the flipper. I honestly don't see anything unusual about the wiring.

More info on the problem - I was playing around with the machine with the glass off and found:
1. If you just activate the magnet by itself the flipper does not flip up. You have to be pressing the flipper button, THEN activate the magnet and let go of the flipper switch - it will stay up until the magnet turns off.
2. If the playfield is lifted up the problem does not happen.

I thought maybe the magnet was pulling the flipper switch closed but the switch seems properly adjusted - I don't think the magnet being that far away could actually suck the switch closed that far but who knows?

Thanks!

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#4 5 years ago
Quoted from antics:

Okay here are some photos of the magnet and the flipper. I honestly don't see anything unusual about the wiring.

Everything is wired correctly. How about a pic of the EOS area of the right flipper.

#5 5 years ago

There is a situation where flashers and flippers get mixed up and I thought it was a shorted winding on a flipper coil that does it. I fixed a big guns with a similar issue but it was a long time ago and I can't remember exactly what it was, but I don't think it was much more than a shorted coil and i had to patch a vaporized trace because of over fusing.

#6 5 years ago

Dose the magnet coil have a diode on it?

#7 5 years ago

Does the magnet energize when you press the right flipper?

#8 5 years ago

I played a Dr Dude yesterday and it was doing the same thing.... is it possible that this is a feature and not a bug?

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from Eightball88:

I played a Dr Dude yesterday and it was doing the same thing.... is it possible that this is a feature and not a bug?

No.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

but I don't think it was much more than a shorted coil and i had to patch a vaporized trace because of over fusing.

Could this been on the inner connect board?

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Could this been on the inner connect board?

Trying to remember better ... I think flipper a coil plunger broke and button got mashed until the coil overheated and shorted. Then the fuse was like 20a and a trace acted like a fuse..... but Yeah i think it was on the interconnect board I repaired a burnt trace... Pushing the flipper button was still making flashers turn on. As that was the call I got was "push flipper button no flip but light comes on". Sounds at least similar to the OP's issue.

The Dr Dude magnet is on the 50v supply like the flippers would be but it has that tip36c high current driver. I'd have to peak again the circuit to try and wrap my brain around it but maybe a shorted diode on the high current driver?

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

Dose the magnet coil have a diode on it?

Yes

#13 5 years ago

You should not have a diode on the coil, it is located on the Aux power supply. You should remove the diode on the coil and test the diode on the aux power supply. Is there any chance the brown/green wire is touching the EOS switch?

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You should not have a diode on the coil, it is located on the Aux power supply. You should remove the diode on the coil and test the diode on the aux power supply. Is there any chance the brown/green wire is touching the EOS switch?

I will check this weekend. Thanks!

#15 5 years ago

So I was wrong - there isn't a diode on the magnet coil. I checked the wires around the EOS switch and didn't see anything touching (see photo). Feeling frustrated. I still need to check the diode on the aux power supply...

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#16 5 years ago

Okay I tested all the large diodes on the Aux Power Supply board and they all check out okay. I think it's D36 for the magnet if I understand the schematic correctly. Anything else I should check?

Thanks!

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#17 5 years ago
Quoted from antics:

I think it's D36 for the magnet if I understand the schematic correctly.

This is the magnetic flashers.

For the magnet it would be D-15. But I don't think this would be the problem. If I were you I would remove the inner connect board. I would inspect all of the connectors when you pull them off. Then look over the back of the board for trace damage. Post a pic of the board.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the magnetic flashers.
For the magnet it would be D-15. But I don't think this would be the problem. If I were you I would remove the inner connect board. I would inspect all of the connectors when you pull them off. Then look over the back of the board for trace damage. Post a pic of the board.

Okay, here's photos of the interconnect board. I had previously worked on this board when I first got the machine as the GI was out and some of the connectors were pretty burned up - I replaced the IDCs in two places and resoldered all the connectors which fixed the problem.

In other news, now my Mixmaster motor just stopped working. I created another Pinside topic for that problem: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dr-dude-mixmaster-motor-not-spinning#post-4748836

Thanks!

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#19 5 years ago

Wondering if missing or bad flipper coil diodes could cause this issue? Possibly allowing voltage to backfeed through coil?

#20 5 years ago

hhhh i am wondering if you have a coil winding touching the base of your flipper coil? also i wonder if one of the screws on the flipper base is contacting a rail on the other side of the play-field? are the screws original? i have seen this do weird things before...

#21 5 years ago

I don't see anything out of the ordinary on the inner connect board.

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