(Topic ID: 104749)

Dr. Dude - Multiple Problems (Switch Test Results)

By Applesaucesomer

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Hey all,

I've recently purchased my first pin, Dr. Dude, and unfortunately I've run into some issues. Currently:

1) The mixmaster always spins.
2) The ball won't load into the shooter lane.
3) Targets set off things they shouldn't (example: heart of rock and roll sets off the knocker).

This was a 100% working machine before I moved it in my house, but I guess something got messed up during the transfer.

I've been going through the machine and reading online, and when going through the switch test I get the error "A/C Relay C-Side 06 02." (see screenshot). I am fairly certain it is a wiring issues as I have removed the j8 and j10 connectors (iirc) to determine if the board was at fault.

Also, I found a section on this site http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11 which suggested checking fuses under the section 4.6 Solenoid problems. They all looked ok.

I got confused when looking through the manual at the switch matrix section. Does anyone have an ideas where I can look or what I can test?

When I get home from work I can provide a video of the behavior if it helps. Thanks in advance and sorry if this is all basic newbie stuff.

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EDIT:

Post edited by Applesaucesomer: Insert a video

#2 9 years ago

First gratz on your first Pinball Machine
Dr Dude was my first pin too

Now looking at the fuses and checking the fuses are two different things
You need to take the fuse out and check them with a DMM to see if they're bad

With the Mix Master always being on check the 2 switches on the ramp
1 of them could be stuck closed

Hopefully it's just a blown fuse and a stuck switch otherwise I'm sure another member can help you with a little more experience than me

#3 9 years ago

Also check the buttons when you open the coin door
It never happen on my Dr Dude but on my Royal Rumble the ball wasnt coming out cause one of the coin door buttons was out or pushed in

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from phillymadison:

First gratz on your first Pinball Machine
Dr dude was my first pin too
Now looking at the fuses and checking the fuses are two different things
You need to take the fuse out and check them with a DMM to see if they're bad
With the Mix Master always being on check the 2 switches on the ramp
1 of them could be stuck closed
Hopefully it's just a blown fuse and a stuck switch otherwise I'm sure another member can help you with a little more experience than me

Thanks for the reply! I wasn't really clear in the original post but I did bust out the DMM to check those fuses. There was actually a separate issue I had with the score display that was easily corrected by swapping out a fuse, so I instantly thought to check the ones in that guide I posted. No luck tho .

I think the switches in the ramp are good too because when I did the switch edge test it shows both of them working fine. I'll check out the buttons on the coin door too but I am not sure... I think it might be a problem with the circuit with all the green wires (J8? I forget off the top of my head).

When I get home from work today I suppose I'll upload a video showing off what's going on since it will probably help.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from Applesaucesomer:

Targets set off things they shouldn't (example: heart of rock and roll sets off the knocker).

If you're not already, familiarize yourself with the switch matrix diagram. Then go into diagnostics and close each switch while looking for any that show two switches closing when a single switch is closed. Then mark your results on the switch matrix diagram and look for any patterns. Usually either an entire row or column or four switches that form a rectangle.

That's the short version, for more info see the following. It's for WPC, but the theory is the same.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Then go into diagnostics and close each switch while looking for any that show two switches closing when a single switch is closed.

For the first switch test (06) I get the message in the screenshot and can't proceed forward after that. Should I be doing the switch edge test instead? Or the Solenoid test?

#7 9 years ago

Switch edge test.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

If you're not already, familiarize yourself with the switch matrix diagram.

Absolutely! After you have done this, and if the switches are all fine, the next thing to check would be the connectors to the boards. I've had problems with pins where they do all kinds of screwy things after I've moved them. Turns out a connector jarred loose.

#9 9 years ago

If your ramp switches are working, you might want to test the transistor that operates the mixmaster's motor. I had one short out and that kept the mixmaster constantly on. I no longer own the machine so I don't have the manual to tell you which transistor it is, but I think it's Q30, if my memory serves me correctly. And if it's the transistor, you may have an intermittent short within your playfield, which may have been caused by the move.

#10 9 years ago

Thanks for the tips guys. I posted a youtube video showing off the issues in more detail. I'll update the topic when I get a chance to tinker more: girlfriend was getting angry I was postponing a date to take the video (bonus points if you spot her!).

#11 9 years ago

Video is set to private

#12 9 years ago

Derp, girlfriend rush etc.etc. Should be good to go now.

#13 9 years ago

Welp just got around to doing some testing and I found no errors doing the switch edge test... any other ideas guys? I'm almost ready to admit defeat and hire someone.

#14 9 years ago

Afraid there is no quick answer in regards to the switch problems. The first step is to identify the pattern (which switches cause other switches to indicate closed when they shouldn't).

For the problem to show up it takes three closed switches which will form three corners of a rectangle on the switch matrix diagram. Sometimes you luck out and closing a single switch will make the problem show up. This is because the other switches are already closed (ball trough, drop targets, etc.). Other times you have to close more than one switch (sometimes even three) for the problem to show up.

That can get rather complex so it's sometimes easier to spot the pattern during a game by what is going on (balls locked, drop targets down, etc.). Another method is to put extra pinballs in any ball locks, push down any drop targets and then try closing all the switches in switch edge test to see if something shows up.

The article I referenced above is a good starting point, with a more in-depth explanation of what I just said.

#15 9 years ago

Roger. Thanks for all the help terryb!

#16 9 years ago

After fiddling around with the machine and reading the manual some more, I think I might have sussed out what the issue is. I think the problem is actually the A/C Relay being stuck in "C" mode: I should have known from the error the one switch test was giving me. I tried manually triggering the A/C relay by attaching an alligator clip to the Q8 transistor and had no luck. I then tested the transistors on the CPU board as described here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html .

On Q6 (the transistor which powers the motor) I got a buzz, which I think means it is shorted. Q8 didn't seem shorted (which controls the A/C relay), but it looks like I am in the realm of board repair territory. Being a newbie I'm wary about messing with the board since everything I've read online says that spells disaster.

Time to call in the big guns or is there something else I can do?

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