(Topic ID: 319591)

Dr. Dude Mix Master Not Working After New Switch Install

By Kingjowjow

1 year ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Skyemont
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    Good_Solder_New (resized).jpg
    02_your_switch.jpg
    01_original_switch.jpg
    04_your_switch.jpg
    03_switch_wiring.jpg
    02_cherry_db3.jpg
    01_cherry_da3.jpg
    New Rollover Switch (resized).png
    New Rollover Switch (resized).jpg
    Old rollover (resized).jpg
    #1 1 year ago

    Was curious to see if anyone had any ideas about a recent switch install I did on my 1990 Bally Dr. Dude Machine. Before the installation, the issue was that the rollover switch was broken, which caused the mixmaster to continuously run throughout the game right when you pressed the start button. I soldered in a new rollover switch and now the mixmaster does not run at all when the switch is activated. I made sure to use the proper solder and that the wires matched up on the switch the same way they did on the old one. Any idea what's going on? I've attached pictures of the old rollover switch before removing and the new one I installed. Thank you for any feedback!

    New Rollover Switch (resized).jpgNew Rollover Switch (resized).jpgOld rollover (resized).jpgOld rollover (resized).jpg
    #2 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    Thank you for any feedback!

    See the white wire ? Unsolder it. Move it to the black end of the diode lug.

    LTG : )

    #3 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    See the white wire ? Unsolder it. Move it to the black end of the diode lug.
    LTG : )

    Thanks for the reply LTG. I had a feeling I did the soldering wrong... So just to clarify what you said, unsolder the white wire and move it closer to the black Diode?

    New Rollover Switch (resized).pngNew Rollover Switch (resized).png
    #4 1 year ago

    See next post.

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    I made sure to use the proper solder and that the wires matched up on the switch the same way they did on the old one. Any idea what's going on?

    The wire colors might match up but a diode is a polarized active component.

    This is the original Cherry DA3 switch body that was in your machine.

    01_cherry_da3.jpg01_cherry_da3.jpg

    This is the replacement Cherry DB3 switch body that you have installed.

    02_cherry_db3.jpg02_cherry_db3.jpg

    This is the switch matrix wiring diagram from the manual indicating how you should wire your switch.

    03_switch_wiring.jpg03_switch_wiring.jpg

    This is what you should do.

    04_your_switch.jpg04_your_switch.jpg

    It should be obvious what is wrong. If it is not obvious I strongly suggest you stop messing with the machine and get some professional help.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Hope this helps

    That won't help. Wiring this way will remove the diode from the circuit and you will get potential errant switch closures. The diode would be across the C and NC terminal whereas the GRN and WHT wires will be across the C and NO terminals without the diode to block the back current implementing the matrix. The wiring will NOT conform to the wiring diagram in the manual.

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Not what I said.

    Maybe this picture will help.
    Unsolder white wire and leave silver band end of diode soldered where it is, red "X". Solder the white wire on the BLACK END of the diode and lug, light blue "X".
    Hope this helps,
    Lloyd
    [quoted image]

    Yes the picture helped very much, I will solder the white wire to the other side of the switch. After seeing DumbAss post I am a little confused though if he is saying what you said wont help...

    Quoted from DumbAss:

    The wire colors might match up but a diode is a polarized active component.
    This is the original Cherry DA3 switch body that was in your machine.
    [quoted image]
    This is the replacement Cherry DB3 switch body that you have installed.
    [quoted image]
    This is the switch matrix wiring diagram from the manual indicating how you should wire your switch.
    [quoted image]
    This is what you should do.
    [quoted image]
    It should be obvious what is wrong. If it is not obvious I strongly suggest you stop messing with the machine and get some professional help.

    Thank you so much for the detailed pictures. I understand your saying its "obvious what is wrong", but going from what LTG said it seems I just need to move the white wire to "C" on the switch. From your detailed photos and diagarems I don't really see what your are suggesting I do besides what LTG suggests. Professional help is avaialbe, and is coming out this week, I was really just trying to how far I could get with this machine working on it on my own. Thanks again for the detailed pictures.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    From your detailed photos and diagarems I don't really see what your are suggesting I do besides what LTG suggests.

    If you can't interpret wiring diagrams I really suggest you don't mess with the machine's wiring. You can potentially cause more HARM than help. It takes less than microseconds for electrical damage to occur.

    I spelled it out for you.

    The original switch.

    01_original_switch.jpg01_original_switch.jpg

    The switch that you wired.

    02_your_switch.jpg02_your_switch.jpg

    I hope it is obvious now.

    #9 1 year ago

    Remove the diode. Turn it 180 degrees. Solder it back on so that the black end of the diode goes to the white wire. Silver band end of the diode goes to the lug with no wire.

    Or have your professional do it.

    LTG : )

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    If you can't interpret wiring diagrams I really suggest you don't mess with the machine's wiring. You can potentially cause more HARM than help. It takes less than microseconds for electrical damage to occur.
    I spelled it out for you.
    The original switch.
    [quoted image]
    The switch that you wired.
    [quoted image]
    I hope it is obvious now.

    Thank you for making it more obvious for me! Sorry noob here, slowly learning.

    Quoted from LTG:

    Remove the diode. Turn it 180 degrees. Solder it back on so that the black end of the diode goes to the white wire. Silver band end of the diode goes to the lug with no wire.
    Or have your professional do it.
    LTG : )

    Thanks LTG !

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    If you can't interpret wiring diagrams I really suggest you don't mess with the machine's wiring. You can potentially cause more HARM than help. It takes less than microseconds for electrical damage to occur.
    I spelled it out for you.
    The original switch.
    [quoted image]
    The switch that you wired.
    [quoted image]
    I hope it is obvious now.

    I followed you instructions correctly and made a new solder setup. When I tested it, the mixmaster makes its sound now when before it wouldn't when I triggered the rollover switch! It was really cool to hear it so somthing is working. The only downside is now when the switch is triggered it makes the sound of the mix master,but the mixmaster does not run/turn on like it used to with the broken switch. Hopefully I did the soldering right, I'm not sure now why the Mixmaster does not run but the switch triggers the sound of the mixmaster. The mixmaster ran continuously non stop when a game was started with the old broken switch, now with the new one it does not run at all, but at least the switch triggers the sound which is good. I'm sure the motor of the mix master did not go out or anything so im sure what is going on.

    LTG

    Good_Solder_New (resized).jpgGood_Solder_New (resized).jpg
    #12 1 year ago

    Turn game off, press down the center button on the test switches on the coin door. Turn game on, press the advance button (should be left of the center button). It should pop up music test push the center button again making sure it pops up, press advance until you get to coil test press the center button again, it should cycle through the game coils. Watch what happens when it gets to mixmaster. Does it move?

    #13 1 year ago

    Kingjowjow, keep it up! You're trying to fix your own stuff while potentially blowing it up a tiny bit. Don't let that risk stop you from working on it! Learn everything you can, avoid the naysayers, and keep rocking! If you don't break at least one thing on your journey of pin repair, you probably aren't doing it right

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from arcyallen:

    Kingjowjow, keep it up! You're trying to fix your own stuff while potentially blowing it up a tiny bit. Don't let that risk stop you from working on it! Learn everything you can, avoid the naysayers, and keep rocking! If you don't break at least one thing on your journey of pin repair, you probably aren't doing it right

    I really appreciate that thank you!

    Quoted from Jmckune:

    Turn game off, press down the center button on the test switches on the coin door. Turn game on, press the advance button (should be left of the center button). It should pop up music test push the center button again making sure it pops up, press advance until you get to coil test press the center button again, it should cycle through the game coils. Watch what happens when it gets to mixmaster. Does it move?

    Definitely going to do this next to troubleshoot the issue, I installed some custom coin reject doors and afterward I think my advanced game menu button got unhooked so it's currently not working, plan on fixing it tonight so I can do a coil test, thank you so much for the reply and helpful info!

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from Jmckune:

    Turn game off, press down the center button on the test switches on the coin door. Turn game on, press the advance button (should be left of the center button). It should pop up music test push the center button again making sure it pops up, press advance until you get to coil test press the center button again, it should cycle through the game coils. Watch what happens when it gets to mixmaster. Does it move?

    I fixed the Advance button, when I run a coil test and get to the "Motor" which is the mix master, it does not run. It's odd because it just ran perfect before I installed the new switch, now only the sound (Which did not work with the old switch) of the mixmaster works when the switch is triggered but not the mix master itself. Any Ideas on what could be going on?

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    I fixed the Advance button, when I run a coil test and get to the "Motor" which is the mix master, it does not run. It's odd because it just ran perfect before I installed the new switch, now only the sound (Which did not work with the old switch) of the mixmaster works when the switch is triggered but not the mix master itself. Any Ideas on what could be going on?

    I have a dr dude at the moment so I’ll check tomorrow to see if I can find anything obvious on mine that may have happened. Check to see if you have power at the motor. Are any other solenoids not working?

    8 months later
    #17 1 year ago

    Hey guys. Can the mix master be adjusted up or down? When trying to exit onto the ramp it cant. The ramp is slightly higher.

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from Skyemont:

    Hey guys. Can the mix master be adjusted up or down? When trying to exit onto the ramp it cant. The ramp is slightly higher.

    Quoted from Skyemont:

    Hey guys. Can the mix master be adjusted up or down? When trying to exit onto the ramp it cant. The ramp is slightly higher.

    Yessum.

    #19 1 year ago

    How.

    Reply

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