(Topic ID: 354343)

Dr Dude Lamp Board Substitute

By drewbo81

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by drewbo81
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#1 3 months ago

In search of Dr Dude inline 5 lamp board between flippers. There is one from a Hurricane machine on eBay. Will this one work? Why or why not.? Would like to learn more.

#2 3 months ago
Quoted from drewbo81:

In search of Dr Dude inline 5 lamp board between flippers. There is one from a Hurricane machine on eBay. Will this one work? Why or why not.? Would like to learn more.

The part you are looking for is C-13852. The part on Hurricane is C-14848.

Because these are different part numbers, they are not the same. If Williams used a part on several different machines the part numbers would be identical.

Will this one work?

Maybe... but probably not. The inserts might be fractionally offset from one another, like the 5-lamp board from Dr Dude has spacing every 1", where the Hurricane has spacing every 1-1/8". By the end of the board you are half an inch off center at the last bulb.

If the board is missing entirely I will generally just use #44 bulb sockets instead of a board to fix the game.

As far as learning more:

Your manual is here:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/737/Bally_1990_Dr_Dude_English_Manual_includes_paginated_schematics.pdf

But there are far more parts to a pinball than are in this manual!

You need to go to the 'Red Book' or the 'Yellow Book' to find what you are looking for:

https://www.planetarypinball.com/williamsbally-parts-manuals

This is a tremendous resource that Planetary Pinballs is offering here.

Hurricane has the lamp boards shown with part numbers here:

https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/feme/#p=32

Dr Dude has the lamp boards shown with part numbers here:

https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/itjk/#p=30

Look through these books, they are a tremendous resource!

#3 3 months ago

That’s super helpful PinRetail but I think I may have a different problem. I have a lamp board and those 5 lamps are only ones not lit. I have 5ish volts at connector and 1st light is dimly working other 4 not.
Also as I’m messing with board they may light for a brief moment so perhaps a break in the wire?

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from drewbo81:

That’s super helpful PinRetail but I think I may have a different problem. I have a lamp board and those 5 lamps are only ones not lit. I have 5ish volts at connector and 1st light is dimly working other 4 not.
Also as I’m messing with board they may light for a brief moment so perhaps a break in the wire?

Re-flow solder to the pins right off the bat for sure.

#5 3 months ago

TheLaw i reflowed all and repinned both connectors. I also checked continuity all the way back to the board.
All checks out. 1 light and that’s it. I’m going catch this damn gremlin.

#6 3 months ago

Are you testing them in lamp test or game mode? in game mode, they only light one at a time until the next multiball...

Good lamps? incandescent or led? If led, flip them 180. Check the diodes on the lamp board. Move the working lamp to the other unlit spots and see if they light.

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from drewbo81:

That’s super helpful PinRetail but I think I may have a different problem. I have a lamp board and those 5 lamps are only ones not lit. I have 5ish volts at connector and 1st light is dimly working other 4 not.
Also as I’m messing with board they may light for a brief moment so perhaps a break in the wire?

Basics.

Go into test mode, all lamps, get the lamps blinking.

Unscrew a working black socketed bulb.

Place the working bulb/socket into the bad lamp board.

If it still doesn't light, this confirms that the board or connections to the board is the problem. Put the socketed bulb you pulled from the bad lamp board into the spot where you pulled the good lamp (you swap places with two bulbs in this procedure...)

Board is bad.

Overwhelmingly, this is because the pins on the board need to make connections with the traces. Usually adding a bit of solder and reflowing the pins to the connector solves this.

If it doesn't, pull all the black sockets out of the board. Use a meter. You can see the traces, how they go. Make sure that the common trace to all sockets connects back to the pin, and that this pin is well soldered, without any hint of 'wiggle' that might indicate a poor connection.

Go to the first socket, make sure that the connection from the pad at where the black socket connects is making connection to the diode. Make sure the other end of the diode is making connection with the pin on the board. Test the diode. (I used to not find diodes on light boards bad, but lately I've seen a few... it would be strange to have ALL the diodes on this board be bad but maybe...)

Once you have tested all the connections, and all the diodes, you need to make sure that the little contact points on the black sockets are making good connection at the board. I use a fiberglass brush to shine up this board surface, but you could use anything that shines it up, like a pencil eraser.

Frequently the pad where the black lamp socket will sometimes have a 'divot' where the contacts normally rest. In this case I'll frequently just not quite turn the socket that far as I rotate it in... I want to make connection, so I leave the black socket just a bit less than fully screwed in.

Now, it's possible that your plug is compromised, so check to see if it the wiring on the back of the IDC connector looks good, and don't hesitate to replace the plug with crimp-and-stuff connector using trifurcon terminals. I rarely have to do this.

Finally, it's possible that the wiring to this lamp board is compromised before it gets to this board! So trace the 'common' wire to all the bulbs on this board and see how it connects to other lamps. If the power getting to the board is compromised before it gets there... it's not the board's problem!

Good luck!

1 week later
#8 3 months ago

Thanx for all the help guys. Broken trace. Resoldered and good for now. Board is ugly but it works.

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