(Topic ID: 252016)

Kickout Hole Problem...

By Batcade

4 years ago


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  • 20 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Batcade
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#1 4 years ago

Hi All,
As I dive deeper down the amazing spidey hole, after re-pinning edge connects, a new voltage regulator I have a working game! (wohoo!).

The only noticeable issue I see right away is two of the three kick out holes don't work, (the ones on the outside). I believe I read both of these work on the same coil. I am not at the machine at the moment and was going to lookup prices on new coils and was wondering if anyone knows which coils to buy to replace these? I don't see anything in the manual that mentions that.

Asside from replacing a coil, is there anything other qwerks that might be the cause?
Many thanks,

Batsy

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

I wouldn't replace the coil just yet--coils rarely go bad. It happens, but usually due to something else.
When in gameplay, does the game score points when the ball goes into either of those holes, make any sounds, or anything? You basically want to be sure the switches in each of those holes are registering properly.
Have you taken a look at the coil to confirm the wiring is firmly attached to it? There may be a fuse for that coil somewhere under the playfield or in the cabinet perhaps. I haven't worked on one of those before, and schematics aren't available online (at least free ones), so i may be wrong about that.
Do you have a schematic for the game? Does everything else work?

I do have a schematic, but I didn’t see anything in it mentioning the kickouts other than mentioning it’s switch xx.

I’ll check to see if the score registers and I’ll see if I can clean/test the switches first, can’t quickly identify which coil is responsible for these kickouts anyhow.

Looks like a bank of drop targets are also stuck down and not responding too.

Thanks for the feedback!

#4 4 years ago

Looks like there is two 1Amp SB fuses on the bottom side of the play field. One of those seems toast but i don’t have a replacement on hand.

I’m hoping it controls the bank of 5 drop targets that aren’t working, but also wondering if it could be connected to the outside kickouts not working as well.

The kickout seems to be registering points and the 1 light goes out, it just doesn’t kick the ball out.

Anyone know if the kickouts go through a fuse?

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#7 4 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

looks like the kick holes and the left bank reset and the outhole share a fuse[quoted image]

Shoot, since my outhole, left bank and one of the kickers are working that suggests the other blown fuse is probably just affecting the right bank reset.

That means 1 and 3 kickers not kicking out is a bit more complicated.

Quoted from frunch:

Most coils have their own fuses on that generation of Gottlieb games, so that fuse may be for the kickout coil or the 5 bank. If you want to post some pics of the schematic, i may be able to help a bit further. At least we know the switch is good for the kickout hole, just need to figure out the next step. Have you checked the coil itself to make sure a wire didn't break off or something simple like that?

All of the wires do appear to be connected, this just leaves a driver board issue or the coil itself I’m guessing. Here’s a picture of the coil, it’s wrapped in electrical tape for some reason so that has me questioning it.

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#8 4 years ago

Can anyone describe the procedure for testing the driver board transistor for this coil?

#11 4 years ago

I'm having wierd issues testing my coils, I don't get a solid reading on any coil (even working ones). When I place the leads, the reading bounces all over from .2 to 60.0 then stopping at OL. I just have a mastercraft dmm, is it possible my dmm is wierd?

Having a hard time isolating whether my issue is a driver board transistor or the coil itself. Pinwiki indicates a transistor can still test ok even though it is bad and without getting a solid reading on any coil I can't tell whether the coils are good are not...

Should a coil test bounce around?

#12 4 years ago

I watched a youtube video of someone testing a coil on a system 1 pinball and the reading was constant. I'm guessing my mastercraft dmm is garbage.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Try changing the battery in the meter first! But yeah, you don't need an expensive meter for this kind of stuff. I'd grab one for $15-20 off Amazon or wherever. Even the "high end" harbor freight meter will likely suffice.
Another thought--you may have to unplug the solenoid connectors at the driver board to get proper readings, not sure about that though.

Meter is practically brand new (battery too). I'll try disconnecting the driver boards make sure nothing is pulling down readings (pinwiki doesn't mention that :\)

#16 4 years ago

I have an equally bad feeling about this transistor as I do the coil... I wonder what the wire double backed on itself on the bottom leg does.... I haven’t seen this in any other boards?

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#18 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Yeah, that definitely doesn't look factory. Do you know if that's the transistor that controls the problem coil? Looks like it's Q58. See if you can locate that on the schematic, or post pics of the schematic for the solenoid driver board.

Yep it’s the transistor for the coil that isn working, I just need to verify if the transistor is bad or the coil. Seems I need to remove the driver board to test the transistor so I’ll have to try that.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

You also want to be sure your meter is working properly! Did you ever sort that out so you can check resistance on the coil?
You'll need to use the diode test setting when checking the transistor.

I haven’t got stable readings on the coil yet. I’m hoping once I disconnect the driver board to test the transistor from behind, maybe the coil readings will stabilize. I’ve successfully tested other things like the bridge rectifiers so I know the meter is generally working.

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