When the start button is pressed to begin a game, the score reels correctly reset to zero (and stop trying to fire). Meanwhile, the ball count unit fires continuously (trying to decrement ball count), but never stops. If I set it to think there are multiple balls, it will count them down correctly, but when balls to play gets below one it just keeps on firing.

There is a switch on the unit which is closed when the ball count is above zero, and it opens correctly at the right time.

I've got a schematic, but I'm not super experienced with diagnosing stuff on EMs yet (and I see the ball count unit in the schematic in at least three different places).

It also looks to me like the up-post is quivering as well as it tries to start the game. And that makes sense, because the score motor continues to turn this whole time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Update: I took out the Jones plugs in the head, and reseated them. Success!

Plunged, was able to flip while the ball was coming down. First thing it hits is a pop bumper, and the game goes dead with a blown fuse. At least I'm getting somewhere.

I believe it is 10 point switches that blow a fuse.

I was able to trigger everything else manually on the playfield without causing any problems. Closing the various point relays in the backbox manually, each of them just scores once, but when I push the 10 point closed, it stays stuck closed (and then I manually open it quickly so I don't blow a fuse, because I don't have many left on hand - ha!).

Coincidentally, there is an unattached wire at that relay. However, it was like that when I got it and has since been played a few hundred times without issue.

39B058FF-6CAE-43C1-B5AA-36E1A5A87753 (resized).jpeg

The EOS switch looks good to me. Opens when it should. Stays closed when it should.

The 10 point wheel spins fine when operated manually (and I just took it apart, cleaned everything, made sure the springs where the right tension, etc). Maybe the coil isn't pulling it far enough to open the switch? Hard to see this because the fuse blows within a second or two.

I could try loosening the spring to give the plunger more freedom, but also worried that it won't snap back after the coil fires.

Same color as the other wire attached to that coil. I'm 90% sure it came from that same lug. I guess there is no harm in attaching it and seeing what happens, but again, it has been working correctly for hundreds of plays with that disconnected.

Sorry, somehow I skipped over this the first time. You mean this? 8D1292F6-8AD6-4CE7-9E27-69CCE6F0247D (resized).jpeg

Haha! So replacing that might clear things up?

Cut off the match coil and everything works!

Looking at the schematic, I can see that the 10 point relay and the Number 2 Bumper Relay run to the Match coil. Why is it that a fried coil ends up making the 10 point relay stick closed? Just trying to learn.

Also, this makes me notice the Chime coil which should fire with the 100 and 1000 point relays...and realizing mine never did this. I look in the cabinet and see that the coil has been cut off completely and the mounting hardware on the chime box is gone.

Anyone have a pic from their machine they could share so I can see what that area looks like?